Phajoding

 

The Himalayas! As seen from Phajoding

Does it happen with you that when you finally sit down to work on something you’ve been thinking of for quite a while, you end up doing something else…sounds familiar or stupid!? Why I am telling you this is because i thought of writing about this another amazing hike i did here in the Nilgiris but somehow the Himalayan nostalgia is overwhelming today ( i don’t know if its the rains because they always get me reminiscing …or if its the message from my guide after a long time today. Nonetheless I am happy since i wanted to write about it since forever now!

 

 

Ugyen…..My Guide..My Friend!

So throwback to April this year…It was around 1^st or 2^nd of the month when I called up Ugyen…I was taken aback to hear a Punjabi song playing on his caller tune which happens to be one of my favs ‘Mai Tennu Samjhava Ki’!! Ugyen picks up his call and wishes.. ‘Good Morning La’! How are you Madam?’ I immediately came to the point and asked him if he’d be my guide for the hike to Phajoding Monastery and thereafter further up to Dungtscho lake..He retorted ‘ofcourse la’..When i asked him how much he’d charge for three days, his reply left me dumbstruck… ‘I’ll take you madam but don’t ask me to take money la! My brother is a lama there so staying up there in the monastery isn’t a hassle..There is no need to spend money unnecessarily’! Thats Ugyen for you! I met him for the first time at the MERI PUENSUM ( three holy mountains of the Haa Valley) trek..He was a friend of Namgay, our guide…Negotiating the unexpected snow for almost the entire trek, Ugyen was a life savor that day! I had hiked in snow just once before but that wasn’t this long and arduous a trek…Ugyen just made it very easy..He held my hand while hiking down the steep hill where most of us were slipping bad…While talking to him I got to know he’s from Thimphu and I knew right then that i’d find a perfect company for my Phajoding Hike….

 

Phajoding Monastery!!

So How did Phajoding happen to me? Well…. like they say curiosity is the mother of all inventions…Bhutan is known for its gorgeous alpine mountain lakes..and while I trekked a lot there but only once did i hike up to a holy lake..Lakes in mountains are generally in the high altitudes and i had only trekked up to Tehlela in Haa Valley..I wanted to explore other towns as well..And so i googled about the mountain lakes in Thimphu and that of course was followed by a whole lot of stalking random local trekkers on Instagram!! ..The first post that flashed on my screen was spellbinding Dungtscho! One of the students from the Thimphu College had written about it…and ever since then that picture remain etched in my mind..Though some reviews sounded a bit demoralising for few hikers suffered from serious mountain sickness but then if you’ve not taken risks you have’nt really lived at all! Right!? Since I was working in one of the schools in Haa, planning a hike during weekdays was’nt possible…And finally when the long extended weekend arrived, i packed my bags and set off for a journey that gave me so much in just three days!

I reached Thimphu on 8^th evening..Sleep did’nt come that easy to me that night..Ugyen called around 9pm to tell me that he would pick me up at 7 in the morning and that I should sleep well before the hike! I was super bummed for i’d finally be camping with lamas and hiking up to the gorgeous lake who’s picture was so deeply etched in my mind for almost a year but at the same time i was apprehensive of doing it alone with a guy i barely knew! I had never camped with random men before..but the excitement overpowered the apprehension..

 

DAY 1

 

 

I Climb…Therefore I Am!

 

The climb was steep…and my rucksack weighed almost 10 kgs..It took me some time to get hold of the lay of the ground…We hiked up through the rugged pine forests and rhododendrons kissed trails..One could only hear the alien sounds of birds chirping that i’d never heard before..We rarely met another human soul except one foreigner coming down and a lama or two going down to buy their monthly groceries..Ugyen figured that i was struggling with the heavy weight and immediately took my bag..I told him to give me his since his was much lighter..We stopped enroute to have breakfast…Ugyen was’nt much of a talker but he opened up with time..He belonged to a well to do family but wanted to charter a course to his own destiny..Some incidents in his life bogged him down, which most of us would succumb to but I was so impressed with how he came out strong out of it..He told me his plans of moving to the States and joining his elder brother in NYC….We shared some parathas and aloo sabzi under a shed and talked a little about our families and life goals before we’d climb again….Little did i know that time that Ugyen was keeping a note of my food preferences!

 

 

Students sitting outside the monastery in the sun!

 

 

The Lama Land!!

 

After almost three hours of trekking we finally hit the monastery…Phajoding stood as a lone sentinellooking down at the hustling Thimphu Valley..It was a Saturday morning and Lamas had their break time on..I was lucky to find the Head Lama /Principal Namgay Tenzin standing outside his hut..He was estatic to know that i was coming from his village Dumcho in Haa valley…A little taken aback though for he had never found a lone woman camping in their monastery but Ha! that just gave me more kicks….The senior students were distributing refreshments..Some boys were warming up for the football match while some were soaking up the warm sun on the monastery roof top..It all looked so dreamy…The stoic Himalayas in the backdrop and old rustic walls of an 8^th century old Monastery!!!..Few kids came and sat down next to me..A couple of them were from these villages in Haa where i’d gone hiking and cycling and they remembered me from there! I was so thrilled to hear that..

Candid Shots of some of my Haa Valley Boys….

While academics is the priority, the lamas also indulge themselves in sports and other miscellaneous activities like grinding rice to make food for the horses..making drinking water from snow, organic farming, painting the monastery walls etc….

Lamas watching the juniors play football….

We sat down to watch a lil bit of their football match but soon moved out as we had to climb further up to a retreat called Thujdra Temple where Ugyen’s cousin was meditating along with another lama..Phajoding had a total of ten temples including meditation centres and Thujdra was the topmost, meaning 4300amsl was home for two nights! Leaving the lamas, some yaks and horses and few ruins and temples behind we started our climb to Thujdra!`

 



One of the meditation centres enroute…..

an abandoned temple enroute to Thujdra again…

 

First Sign of Thujdra!!… The chorten!!

 

Perched on a rock cliff…My home for two days……

A few metres higher, and a lot more secluded laid Thujdra, perched on a rock cliff…Ugyen yelled with joy, ‘we are home madam’!! The Sun in the Himalayas is the most deceiving, sucking all your energy and the winds at 4300amsl pierces your skin but one look at my abode for next two days was a respite from all the fatigue and pain..At that point i wanted to reach out to the college boy whose post about Phajoding and the lakes got me here! ‘Thank You stranger’, I murmured to myself…Pempu and Tenzin welcomed us to their abode..They lived at Thujdra in retreat and were’nt suppose to mingle with other lamas..They lived a different life..Most of their time was spent on meditation..Pempu made tea for us…Since Ugyen had already told them about our visit they had prepared lunch as well…I think i was way too famished as i relished rice for the first time in my life..that too with just dry saag..there was no daal…Meanwhile Tenzin opened the other room for us…..It was a small tiny room with huge glass windows..One could see Phajoding Monastery far below and farther away the Thimphu Valley…..They put two matresses on the floor with two blankets…I told Ugyen that I wanted the one right next to the window facing the majestic Himalayas….I was living a dream! The gusty winds rattled the windows and the foam sheet under the mattress found it difficult to stay intact..Since the room was made of all wooden planks, the air crept in through the gaps making it terribly cold..I was carrying my sleeping bag but Ugyen was kindest to borrow a heater from the lamas…He placed it right next to my mattress..
 

 

The Room with a View……..The Himalayas shimmering white…..

While Ugyen was busy catching up with his cousin, I just sat down by the window staring at the mountains across..There was utter silence in the air…No birds chirped..No rivers gushed…The only constant sound was of the winds wailing,breaking the monotony…..and they wailed quite loud..That moment with myself is still so vivid….I looked back at the last two years..So much i’d seen in this land yet there was so much left unexplored…I regretted working there..It held back my escapades though i felt great teaching my kids and without them life would be incomplete but then again with the course of time the mountains became my main..From cribbing about no civilization around to becoming a passionate lone traveller there, i had come a super long way…I detested crowd….City lights did’nt feel so comforting anymore..Strangers felt like known! So much had changed in these two years! And all because of those towering ranges that stood ahead of me..I looked at my phone and there was no coverage..I wanted to call my Dad and Tomas and tell them how peacefully gorgeous this place was..After resting for a while, i decided to go out in the cold and click a few pictures.And Voila!.I was escorted by a litter of ankle nipping playful puppies..The bench outside was so inviting..I sat there with the mutts witnessing the sky changing its hues during the sunset..I loved the nothingness around..Interrupting my thoughts, Ugyen yelled from the room.. ‘Madam have tea la..its so cold’….I told him that i wasnt a tea person..My hosts though were very concerned since i was down with cold..Tenzin got a flask of boiled water with some tubers and herbs which apparently worked wonders in curing flus…It was the most bitter thing i’d had in my life but it was indeed miraculous..While i was sipping on Tenzins home made cold remedy, something unusual flashed in front of me…it came from the mountains across..in the sky..it looked magical! as if someone painted it over the sky..just when i was thinking in my head what laid beyond those mountains, a hand stretched out in the sky as if it were going to take me the other side to show me what existed…Oh Well! The mountains were listening to me :).. Like Always!

 

The Changing Hues………..

That hand in the sky…….if only it were for real

 

Tenzin and Pempu….my incredible hosts…….

My dinner…Rice and bhutanese saag….and hot water ofcourse

Kitchen in their humble abode….

 

As the night got colder, we all sat down in Pempu’s and Tenzin’s room…It was warm and cosy..Pempu made dinner for us while Tenzin and Ugyen watched a local program on the TV, which was straight out from the 80s, …The program was similar to Americas The Stage and our very own Indian Idol….The beautiful Bhutanese symphonies made me want to write a poem…I scribbled down few lines before finally having my dinner..I did’nt eat too well this time..Both the lamas and Ugyen expressed their concern and told me to eat well since we had to climb further up the next morning..It was pitch dark outside and the only light you could see was the lightning in the sky….It made the dark Himalayas sparkle.. a sight to behold! It was almost 9pm and the time to go to bed…I chit chatted with my hosts for a while before I finally called it a night….That night I had no river’s symphony putting me to sleep but….I was closer to Himalayas…I withdrew the curtains of the window by my bed…far away the lightning kept illuminating the peaks…it looked like it was snowing up there…i wanted the night to pass by soon for what waited in store for the morning was an enchanting fairytale!!

 

 

to be continued soon

 

The New Mountains : Nilgiris

 

 

So I finally decided to wake up my blog from deep slumber. A lot has happened in the last couple of months. I’ve had this persistent sad melancholic feeling…you know the kinds you have after a break up…its as true as lame and corny as it sounds…While I was trying to cope up with my Himalayan hangover, Nilgiris in her own way made it easy to get over it but only with time…Though the pines smell same…flowers are as pretty as the Himalayan Blue Poppy and the sprawling tea gardens make a perfect emerald blanket but all this while something had been missing…I’d always tell Thomas that i have no stories to tell..I have no tribes to sit and share a cup of tea with…I’ve got no streams to quench my thirst when famished…..Untill Today!! Untill Gundada happened to me ( doesnt that sound like such a villianous name..i have this funny way of remembring the village names since some of them are such tongue twisters….For this particular one I told myself its gundon ka adda so Gundada…and even though it sounds ridiculously stupid but my formula worked…Little.. did i know that the gundas would turn out to be the kindest souls and the source of my very first story from the Blue Mountains…..The Nilgiris..!!

Somewhere in that valley is my balcony…Tripti my friend with one of the village girls

 

Every evening while sitting at my balcony i’d sit and stare at the mountain that stood few miles away..One would see a whole lot of bright colorful houses lit up at the bottom of the hill…and as you’d go higher the civilzation shrank and you’d see just a tiny bunch of houses lit up on top..During rains those houses would play hide and seek amidst the clouds and it all looked so inviting…Everytime i’d tell myself ‘i want to go to that village’ and after a whole lot of finding out from my maids and even the tailors here in Wellington i decided to ride to the lower village called Jagathala and eventually find a way to Gundada on top…I wasn’t too sure of doing a solo hike for i didnt know the men here too well…Strange how i was never unsure in an alien land though… I asked my friend to accompany me and she like always since the Himalayan time readily agreed!

Jagathela…the village we started our hike from…

The late riser in me was somehow motivated to be up by 6:30am…We drove down to Jagadela and started our hike by 7:45am..The villagers were already out on the farms harvesting crops like carrots and beans…some women were on the fields working with the men of the family while some were seen at the village temples…While quite a few villages here are Christian settlements, this one looked like a Hindu dominated hamlet…Most of the houses were painted bright and displayed a streak of superstition with black masks hanging on the doors to ward off the evil..We parked our bike and started to climb up…It all felt like DejaVu….We hit the narrow trails hugged by pines from either sides… If you want to know the contours of the place up close, there’s no better way than doing it on foot…After a climb of forty mins we finally hit the tea gardens on top..All those evenings i stared at the village from my balcony and now it were just two kms away…basking in all its glory it seemed to call us out..

 

Gundada on the hill top…as seen from below..

So after leaving two villages behind Jagathala and Vordonity we finally were on our way to the adda of gundas GUNDADA….The tea gardens sprawled all the way up to the village…Just when i was thinking that i’d not had any sherpas yet an old lady emerged from the tea gardens…Perumai…Perumai was carrying a sack of freshly plucked vegetables ..Like most of the local women here, both sides of her nose were pierced…It isnt easy to communicate here with locals since Hindi is almost a foreign language this side..Perumai was old and she didnt know English either…It took us good about ten mins to get her understand that we were asking her for her name..Its only after we gave her some examples of random names like neha..sangeeta..rani..basanti etc that she realised we wanted to know her name….She kept giggling and talking in Tamil…We giggled back without getting the hang of anything she said….She then put her sack down and took out some radish for us..Deja Vu yet again…She made me feel closer to Himalayas…She seemed to be on her way to the market to sell the veggies..We said our byes and moved on..While walking one could only hear the sparrows chirping and the leaves rustling….

 

Perumai…

While climbing up to Gundada…endless tea gardens enroute

Leaving all the men and machines behind we finally reached the top..There was no concrete road to this village…The villagers had parked their bikes in a make shift garage made of tin sheets down at the tea gardens where we met Perumai..We went around wishing people, yelling Vanakkam with all our might..The first house had some shy inhabitants….They were taken aback on seeing us and didnt talk too much…A little disappointed we decided to call on the next house…An old lady sat at the porche with her young grand daughter..They were ecstatic to have visitors and immediately got some cold water for us…Ramya,the granddaughter made us some tea and we sat down trying to chit chat with her inspite of the language differences…I opened the google page on my phone and showed her the tamil words to make a conversation..Ramya is a botany student and everyday catches a bus from Jagathala to her college in town..One felt happy seeing how girls even in such cut off places made an effort to continue their education…Since her semester break was on, we were lucky to find her home…She then took us around to her farms where a variety of crops like garlic, beans and radish were planted…I was to make sarso ka saag and makke ki roti for lunch and that radish looked perfect for the afternoon salad…but I was being too greedy… We had already got our share of radish in the morning from Perumai…The entire village had about just five houses and everyone looked like family to us…Some worked in the farms while one or two ladies plucked leaves in the tea garden..I absolutely loved the mud hut which happens to be their Chulah or Kitchen area..It took me back to my visits to Dad’s village where Granny used to make delectable bajre ki roti with saag and the best ever mango pickle…The ladies insisted that we have brunch with them and that they’ll make dosas for us…We were touched by their kindness and warmth..During all my hikes, the villagers never ceased to amaze me….So little they have yet they’re ready to give it all…Perhaps that’s what makes me want to wander in the unknown…And its amazing how all these random faces get etched in your mind..like they’re an integral part of your life…I checked the time and it was 10:30am already..and even though i was tempted to stay back for brunch but i had to leave for my fur babies had to be fed..While leaving Ramya told us to come again and to stay with them the next time…I told her that i take such offers very seriously..She smiled though am sure she didnt get a word of what i said..

 

When we reached on top…flowers at the villager’s courtyard looking down at the valley

Blue Skies…Blue Mountains…Blue Houses…and the prettiest pink flowers!



The Choolah Ghar

 

With Ramya and her grandmother

As i sit in my balcony and write today’s tale, Gundada sparkles on the hill top with clouds hovering around..Another few mins and it would disappear into the fog but every blue, pink & green house and every anna and amma we met today are sure to stay in my yet another jar of mountain memories!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Wandering Wheels

 

 

Four wheels  move the body, Two move the soul!

 

To my two wheels who made me discover myself.. Who took me to the unknown hamlets cut off from the main town, tucked into  the wilderness of the mountains..
 

Bridge to another realm!!

 

Who made me learn to develop faith in strangers and forge new bonds.. Who made me fall in love with solitude and made me learn that you don’t always need humans to listen and talk to and that even nature has its own language only if you’d listen.. Who inspired me to get out of my comfort zone and love every bit of the treacherous rides… Who made me fall.hurt  me and  bruised me but pushed me every moment when I thought I was done.. Who I personify for in them I’ve found my perennial mates.. Here’s a page from my cycling diaries.. To one of the quaint little villages called Paeso.. 

 

While the sky roared, I rode:)

 

Cycling over old rustic, rickety bridges

 

One of the many old natives I befriended

 

 

While I rode under the thundering grey sky
The drizzle in the air gave me a wondrous high

 

Its amazing how these two wheels can open your eyes
And make you feel that this earth is real and heaven’s a lie

 

And as my wheels tread an unknown rickety path
“Why didn’t I ride them earlier” I cannot fath!
 

They showed me how easy it is to find solace and joy
While sitting in the middle of nowhere.. sketching an old face ..so warm and coy

 

They did get me lost at times in the  wilderness trying to find a way
But then also found me the warmest tribes with their beautiful homes by the end of the

day

They found me a lady who was differently abled but special in her own way
Who couldn’t speak or comprehend whatever I tried to say

 

Yet she smiled endlessly and guided me to.a haven so comforting
That made me revisit the quaint lil village since the thoughts of it in my mind kept

lingering

 

So I couldn’t wait for the next day to ride to that village again
For her smiling face kept telling me I have nothing to loose but  only memories to gain

 

I reached the  gurgling stream with wild strawberries abound
A burst of drizzle making the valley greenest around

The chirping sparrows that I once heard as a little kid
I was making my own jar of happy memories and I didn’t want to stop and close the lid .

 

So I cycled ahead.. wandering in the same village trying to find something more
Voila! Just then came along a family displaying their warmth and smiles galore

 

And while I spoke with them and exchanged  the usual greetings
I vaguely saw a familiar face by the Tibetan Window.. adorning a smile so befitting

 

She came running downstairs and greeted me with her warmest smile
The same old lady Sherpa who couldn’t speak yet guided me for a mile

 

She looked mighty happy for a foreigner knocked by her door to see her again
I did a little sign talking with her and played merrily with her girls in the  rain

 

But sigh! The sun began to set making the sky all dusky
I’d better head back home for it started to pour and the winds got gusty

 

And as I said goodbye to them…i thought to myself “this is the place I’d imagined while reading a fairy tale in d book

I felt euphoric listening to Louis  Armstrong’s “what a wonderful world” while riding back home along the boisterous Brook

So isn’t it incredible how my wheels taught me that it’s not just the flags and the pristine valley that capture the essence

It’s also the people you meet on the way who share having nothing which complete the journey in its true sense

 

For everytime I venture out there’s something similar yet distinct and new
A million more places..a few more stories.. before to this land, I bid adieu 🙂

 

 

With the lady Sherpa (extreme left)talked about and her family

 

Streams of Paeso, where I’d sit for hours

 

Paeso basking in all its glory

Haachu meandering in its lazy pace

 

 



Prelude to Nubshonapata Lake Trek

It’s been precisely four days of being home Somethings… A Lot of things are amiss.. To start with I just landed in 45 degrees.. From the salubrious climes of my enchanting Haa Valley.. I pinch myself to make myself realize that I am no more in the comforting Himalayas.. My mind drifts back to the constant murmuring of the  Haachu River.. To the warmest embrace of the Himalayas.. To my two wheels who took me around the deserted alleys of the heaven incarnate hamlets.. To the streams of Dumcho n Paeso village where I’d sit for hours in the evenings staring into nothingness, finding solace in its sweet symphony… And to the alien tribes who ironically never ever felt alien.. The ever so warm Haaps!! (Haa tribes)

 

 

At my favorite village Dumcho

The mandatory evening rides to Dumcho

Two years of Himalayan Bliss.. Two years of an undying  relationship with the mountains.. Two years of evolving like never before .. Two years like none other in the past three decades.. So I had to bid farewell to my neverland doing what I’d been dreaming of for months.. Mt Jumolhari Basecamp Hike was on my bucket list for quite some time and the ideal time to do it was here.. So while I am almost done with my entire trek prep (horses arranged. Tents.. Guides.. Everything check! And just then voila! The immigration department decides to play the villian.. just doesn’t seem to give me the permit.. Apparently all the guides and travel agencies were then told that the Indians and Chinese weren’t encouraged to do this particular hike owing to its sensitive location…

Mt  Jumolahri : My dream climb that remained a dream

Well! Must say I was devastated and absolutely disappointed.. I had exactly a week left now and all I could think of was which mountains I’d be able to romance before I’d said my final bye! So the next two days I’d give frantic calls to local guides and mailing random Bhutanese on Instagram asking them about hikes and treks.. Thomas suggested me to go for the last mountain lake on the western border of Bhutan.. Probably one of the largest lakes as well.. The Treasure Lake Nubtshonapata!! While The Jumolhari videos and images still haunted me I just reluctantly called one of the local guides named Pema Tenzin.. I wasn’t too sure if he’d b ready to take me along since I was solo and also  told by one of the locals that it’s still snowing up there and it won’t be a very good idea to hike up to that place around this time ..  I was desperate.. I anyway called… Pema told me to give him a day and he’d get back to me.. He was sweet and courteous enough to call me back and told me to get ready for the hike.. I was thrilled.. I tried googling and checked hash tags on Nubtshonapata but very little was given on the same.. It’s a hidden treasure that very few tourists know of! But now that I’ve done it, it probably tops the charts of my best hikes ..

 

 So plans fixed! A four days hike was planned out with Pema, Kencho1 and Kencho 2 (also called Shak) … I was happy since I’d still got to do pretty much a lot of things on my to do list.. Read hiking up to the mountain lake.. Above 4500m MSL.. Camping in the wilderness at a yak herders hut and witnessing the spectacular  Himalayan Ranges… Though I had my own inhibitions for I didn’t know these men too well (I’d met them once.. That’s it) and the warnings from my folks and friends didn’t make things any better.. Plus the rod in my thigh like always decided to play along.. But then when you got to go you got to go! One day before leaving Pema calls and we are checking our checklist and then before hanging up he asks me a question which now cracks me up.. While then I was kind of flabbergasted thinking what’s my guide up to! So he goes like “Ma’am will you drink wine?’ Just then my mom’s safety cautions rang in my head.. I like a typical Indian woman while talking to a random man retorted,” I don’t drink! And you too shouldn’t while we are hiking”.. He goes like “Ma’am it’s just few shots that we need to put ourselves to sleep”.. Well I told him to go ahead with his wining plan but also told him that I won’t be game for the same.. The rain gods decided to play nasty and the same evening (that is the day before we leave) it was pouring cats and dogs in Haa Valley while it snowed on top where we were headed up to.. But the mountains were calling and am glad we did go 🙂

Day 1 : The start of a magical sojourn

 

Day 1 : Hiking to the first basecamp , the start of a magical sojourn 
 

So where I am concerned  the outset of the journeys have got to be eventful.. Out of three starting points we decided to hike up from Dana Dinkha since the climb was gradual and easy from there.. Plus we could have driven up till the Gompa (starting base). So five kms short of the start point we’re stopped enroute and told to take a detour since the so called road was under construction.. So now we got to drive 15kms to the other starting point.. The Takchu Gompa (one of the most famous Ap Chundu temples of Haa Valley) we finally get dropped at our new starting point with tons of luggage and my three guides.. We were running short of a hiking bag and Kencho Two i.e. Shak decided to be the Super Man for the day.. He tied up piles of heavy stuff in a profile sheet and hung the nasty weight around his shoulders.. The straps so thin would poke his neck and shoulders.. I’d cringe looking at him.. Though it was a routine for him for he made endless trips in this terrain providing ration to his yak herders but this really wasn’t comfortable.. The climb from Takchu to the mother ridge was way too steep.. While climbing up the rocky cliffs and crossing the tunnels of thorny bushes I’d curse myself for not joining the Army (just so I cud save my long locks) .. After all I’d be paid to do all this! No!? The sun was scorching and the heavy weight on our backs pulled us down..

One of the many tree struck by lightning

Koi Shak: Grimmacing while trying to close the load into a profile sheet!

 We finally hit a meadow on the ridge in two hours.. The Himalayas shone brilliantly and the wild violet flowers carpeted the grass making it a perfect bed for us to lie down… We had our lunch  here.. Shak got us some chilled spring water.. Trust me it cud give Redbull or any other energy drink a run for their  money!! 


Of deep conversations with Pema at the meadow

 

By now I’d learnt a little bout my company.. Pema, my guide was a gem and a loyalist.. Sticking around.. Sincerely concerned and mature for his age.. Kencho One was an absolute  kid.. The live wire of the group..  joking around and we shared two common interests.. One photography and second music!! While Kencho Two ( Shak.. So he gets his name courtesy the liking for Sunil Shetty’s dialogue Koi Shak in the movie border) was more of a quiet soul.. Who knew the mountains in and out..  He’d cook meals for us.. Fetch water from the springs only he’d know of.. Carry everyone’s weight as if he were the Papa of the group!! My backpack was taken by Kencho now  since climbing up was becoming a pain with the rapid ascent of  altitude..



Enroute the Pass, admiring nature’s kaleidoscope of colors

We knew we were running late and the unexpected delay added the dilemma whether to establish the camp earlier than the planned sight.. But then again one’s got to see the availability of fire wood and water around.. We decided  if needed we’ll hike around in the dark and that for sure was a damn good decision.. None of us had earlier hiked in the raw darkness of  the mysterious  Himalayas.. The sky displayed its splendid hues while the sun drowned behind the mighty peaks..  The snow clad mystical mountains basked in the moon’s glory and Kencho was all up for a photo shoot..



Kencho’s obsession with silhouette photography

We reached the pass.. It was only the four of us with the Himalayas smiling at us from a  distance.. From here we had to descend down to a yak herders hut nestled in a green meadow hugged by the mountains from all side.. We walked down with the head torches on staying vigilant for the stories of wild bears and animals played games in our heads.. hiking in dark was though a little intimidating but at the same time was an exhilarating experience.. Crossing  dense jungles and boisterous brooks en route we finally hit our Haven around 7ish..




The three musketeers at Gocho La Pass : Pema, Kencho & Shak

While Shak lit some fire and I rested on a wooden plank Pema and Kencho were already occupied fixing my tent.. I all of a sudden felt a splitting headache with some nausea! Damn was it the high altitude effects! While I decided to lie down for a bit,  these guys promised me a hot spicy bowl of Koka for dinner.. And just when the lively banter started with  the wine bottles ready to be toasted upon, the spoiler in me decided to throw up! I felt terribly sick and had almost dropped the idea of hiking further up in my head! While on the other hand the three men dropped their idea of listening to music and taking shots (for which I did feel horribly guilty) I crashed getting in my sleeping bag missing my electric blanket and my two  fur babies . Pema, Shak and Kencho too called it a night after my dramatic display of mountain sickness. Even though it was awfully cold the luminous moonlight felt comforting along with the brimming brook singing a lullaby putting us to sleep.

Shak fixing up some Koka for me



Day 2 : When Mortals catch a glimpse of Heaven

 

Day 2 : Hiking up to the second basecamp 

A sliver of sunlight crept in through my tent’s window.. It was the first time that I woke up to the clear blue sky and the sun rays kissing the Himalayas so tenderly .. I looked around to check the time on my phone! Whattt!! It was just 5am! I had to pee real bad so I really couldn’t laze around in my tent. . It was biting cold outside.. I decided to venture out into the woods to attend to the nature’s call.. My three guides  slept  like logs.. Just when I stepped out of the hut I was greeted by a massive Yak! I froze for a minute for it gave me an unfriendly stare… It looked like it was 8 am.. All I could hear was Shak snoring.. The streams gurgling.. The birds chirping and the Yaks grazing.. What a beautiful repertoire of nature! I walked around clicking some shots.. I still felt a lil weak.. But decided to continue my hike come what may.. So popped in some Diamox to avoid any kind of unpleasantness later in the day.. I went back to my tent and laid down until the trio was up! I didn’t want to wake them up since they deserved every bit of rest. They’d been on their toes since last morning..

0500h outside the yak herder’s hut

The shy Yak giving me an unfriendly stare

Finally around 8ish we all woke up from our deep slumber.. The first thing my guides asked was how I felt n if I were be able to continue with  the hike.. I’d obviously scandalized them the previous night.. I’d told them I couldn’t wait to leave for the next basecamp.. I could see a sense of relief on their faces.. I was kind of touched by their sense of concern! While I generally avoid breakfast (not so proud of it) my guides n friends advised me to eat well since today’s climb was an arduous one.. They fixed me one of bread butter and eggs.. Just when I thought it was probably my heaviest morning meal ever, my hosts offered me a bite of their ‘Breakfast’. They sure took the proverb ‘Eat breakfast like a king’ a bit too seriously !! Beaf.. Pork.. Potato n Rice!! Man! Now I knew how the mountain people ran around in the hills while I struggled  to match up their stamina! We’d decided to leave quite a lot of stuff behind so that Shak was comfortable carrying stuff further up in the third bag.. I could walk guilt free today.. Little did I know that the next few hours of climb was going to be challenging as hell..



The only bridge enroute, balance streams demanded hopping on



Carpeted trails courtesy Green Moss

We finally left our base by 10…we did a lot of stream crossing.. Out of so many of them this one particular brook had a beautiful wooden bridge over it with fluttering prayer flags breaking the monotonous sound of the river… We hopped  over a million  moss draped rocks.. One of the places looked like a moss factory .. You’d see green gallore .. The sun decided to be mean and sucked out whatever energy I’d left in me… I was out of breath.. The climb was actually challenging more so beacuse of the weakness in me since last night.. I was taking baby steps and Pema walked every step along with me.. He displayed tremendous patience. The next pass still looked light years away! Kencho looking a bit concerned asked me ‘Ma’am do you want us to lift you up.. You seem to be quite off.. We can take you around’ !! Throughout the hike they wouldn’t let me hold a single thing.. They’d even  take care of my jacket n sipper.. Now only thing left was carrying my weight around! Well I just joked around saying I am not that old yet n that I’d be able to walk just that we might have to do hiking in dark again.. En route Pema told me some interesting folklores about the lake, discussed his life goals and told me about his friends.. Some who are studying  in India while some doing well for themselves in Thimphu… His conversations kept me distracted from the pain.. Just when we’re about to reach the pass we saw a herd of horses approaching towards us with some local guides.. We sat on the hill giving them way.. They were coming back from Nubtshonapata and heading towards the base camp.. Six horses with truck loads of heavy stuff like cylinders, tents, ration and what not.. and here I cudn’t even bear the weight of my DSLR! Kudos to these animals!

The load carriers in the upper reaches

Their clients were way behind.. A German couple whom we met much later after crossing the pass! I could finally see the pass.. It was just a stones throw away.. The beauty of a pass is that while you are climbing you are totally exasperated and at times you feel you’re done but the moment you hit the top you feel like you’re transported to another world… The sight was of one to behold.. The magnificent snow kissed Himalayas stood mighty in front of us.. They’d dwarf the very existence out of you!! We crashed on the meadow.. Staring at the Himalayas.. Going on a picture clicking spree.. for the first time I saw Shak in high spirits.. He posed for the pictures, wore his shades even though it was getting packed up.. I loved capturing all three of them in their young wild and free mode!



Hindi movie action sequence

 

The boys in high spirits at Gocho La

We decided to move now since we had two more  passes  to climb up to! We met the German couple en route.. They’d asked us when we started from Haa.. We replied in unison yesterday! He was quite taken aback and showed us thumbs up since this particular hike for tourists is planned for good 15 days.. And then he asked where are horses were to which Pema replied “we’re our own horses” the old German had a startled expression and gave us thumbs up yet again !! They told us how majestic the view was of all the Himalayan peaks.. Kanchenjunga.. Jumolahri.. Gangkar Puensum etc.. What followed next was a little unnerving.. We had a landslide struck route and there was hardly any sign of trails.. A toe left or right and I’d for sure go sliding down into the steep narrow gorge.. I caught hold of Pemas hand like a little toddler. He would make way for me in the loose mud by digging foot marks.. I breathed a sigh of relief on reaching the meadow.. There was a glacial stream flowing by and the spot was perfect to stop for lunch..

 

The glacial stream where we pit stopped for lunch

 Kencho decided to be the chef for the day.. we lit fire and he made me Koka which I must say tasted great in spite of the heavy burnt  coal flavor.. The men again had some.. A lot of  non veg..

Making a rudimentary chula

We started to climb for the next pass.. Even though the route was loaded with slippery rocks n leaves I found it much easier than the morning climb.. The high altitude of course played nemesis in between but then again as we approached the pass the panorama ahead of us made up for all the fatigue n tiredness.. I told Pema to walk ahead of me since I wanted to click some candid shots of him while climbing

Pema trudging along the narrow trail

While he was almost up on the pass it looked like he was having a rendezvous with the clouds.. At this point I so wanted to listen to  Lord Hurons “to the ends of the earth” but sigh I had to save up the battery though I’d still hum it in my head.. “oh there’s a river that winds on forever I wanna see where it leads.. Oh there’s a mountain that no man has mounted I wanna stand on its peak.. Out there’s a land that man don’t command I want to be the first to arrive.. To the ends of the earth would you follow me.. There’s a world that is meant for our eyes to see!! I fell in love with every element around. 

The magical and mystifying Himalayas

Well!  It was past four now and we’d better hurry up.. somehow Murphy has always had a soft corner for me! Just when I was all pumped up to cover the last few miles to the lake my thigh decided to act funny.. It was a decent descent now and my leg wasn’t happy walking straight.. So there I started limping around with the rod troubling me.. Perhaps due to the drop in temperature.. I was thinking what Pema must be thinking of this guest with such a defective body (in the words of my helper) I tied my muffler around my thigh tightly to numb to feel the pain.. I could feel  a sudden sense of sympathy around so much so that Shak instead of pacing up walked around with me… We hit this snow patch in a bit crossing which was an ordeal.. Since we were walking along the slope gradient.. Now came the part where in I felt vintage and super old.. So Shak grabbed my left n Pema my right hand and we walked a mile in snow.. I couldn’t stop laughing on how we literally crawled over the icy paths.. My company sure must have thought I was one crazy woman for I almost cried for the pain in my rod and the very next moment I was laughing my guts over it. 

Improv compression band : my muffler

Did I just spot a lake!? Hell yeah… The sun was falling into the lap of glistening Himalayas.. I could see peaks of Kanchanjunga playing hide and seek with the clouds.. Our hut stood beneath us on a meadow.. The clouds hovered by.. It was my Alice in Wonderland moment.. Everything I’d dreamt of was turning out to be real… I sat down with Kencho on the hill top staring at the lake and our Haven while Shak and Pema were off to collect the woods.. We all were relieved.. Even though the lake wasn’t too far away we decided to check it out early morning.. The soothing silence was hypnotizing.. Kencho interrupted “Madam can I say something.. Honestly we are happy we did this together.. You’re the first Indian lady we’ve interacted with so close n we really admire your spirit n strength..” umm that awkward moment when someone says nice things on your face… So well I too decided to open up a bit n I told him” Kencho I wouldn’t have had dared to go for an adventure with three random men back in India.. There wasn’t a fraction of a second that I felt uneasy around these 3..they made the hike easiest… I loved their jokes.. The music Kencho played in the evenings and our mad photo shoots… Even though he’s a graduate in tourism from Sikkim and was placed in some of the best companies  he decided against it n got back to follow his passion. In the field of adventure… We both took some sunset shots..

Kencho caught off guard while capturing the sunset outside our hut

We decided to light fire before we’d freeze our ass off.. I was happy today.. The boys could finally drink without the drama but Kencho’s speakers played a spoiler this time.. I could hear the songs cracking so we just listened to them on his phone.. I learnt about the Bhutanese bands the most famous being Misty Terrace.. Nge Thimphu being a rage among the youngsters.. We finally called it a night after gobbling down some  Maggie..I went to sleep listening to the winds wailing outside and Kencho and Pema giggling over Shak’s musical snoring treat

 

 

 

Day 3 : When weather Gods blessed our arrival

 

 

Day 3 Nobtsonapata Lake and returning to the yak herders hut.. 

 

It was 6am and I was half asleep.. Turning and tossing in my sleeping bag, I heard Kencho walking out of the hut.. He’d told me the previous night that If it isn’t packed up and the weather is pleasant outside then he’d wake me up and we both could capture some early morning shots..

 

Shelter admist the clouds

 

So while I was wondering what the scene outside  must be like he immediately returned to the hut and hopped into his sleeping bag.. I could hear him shiver like crazy with his teeth chattering.. I tried switching on my phone but it didn’t start.. the battery died overnight owing to the crazy chill around.. It was a frosty morning and it looked like it would snow anytime soon.. We had to go down to the lake and then head back to the previous Basecamp.. I had a flight in two days and even though I wanted to stay back for another day, I just couldn’t.. It was foggy and nippy.. I washed my face with hot water outside but by the time I got in to pat it dry, my face had already frozen.. There was one thing I’d discovered about myself in the camp.. I was amused to know the reckless tomboy side of me.. I hadn’t packed any face cream n lip balm for myself.. It was weird asking the boys for the same..And for four days I used Men’s Nivea Cream with no hang ups (got to pat myself for this) .. Well I guess I’m getting wiser n less vain in life.. Times like these when you’re living out of a rucksack and tents you’d curse yourself  for not getting those long locks chopped.. My bun looked like some old unkept Saadhus hippie hairstyle (my husband thinks it always does :p). Well after having our breakfast it was time to hit the lake.. We wore our rain jackets as looming dark clouds hovered around.. The lake was humongous.. I’d hiked up to  a few mountain lakes till now but this one stood apart.. I sat on a rock after lighting the butter lamps.

 

Butter lamp on a tiny island in the middle of the lake

 

While I looked at the lake I could see a host of floating white heavens coming down kissing the lake and  before I’d even know the clouds engulfed us in its wrath and what felt next was the crazy snowfall.. We frantically took pictures and decided to head back to the hut.

 

When the clouds decide to pay you a visit

Shak was burning pines and sticks and performing rituals praying for a better weather.. The lake looked mystical.. They call it a treasure lake.. Folklore has it that the Terton swallowed the entire lake to extract the sacred treasure (ritual instruments like drums, drumstick, trumpets and a pair of cymbals). somehow, the lake escaped from the mouth of the Terton and started chasing him. the Terton dropped the treasures one by one to distract the deity of the lake. wherever the ritual instruments landed, a lake magically appeared and thus Nga Tso, Dung So and other small lakes dot the area. At a place now called Chundu Laptsa, the deity is said to have caught up with the Terton and Ap Chundu negotiated between the two. An understanding was made between the Terton and the deity of the lake. It is also said that the people from Paro Pangdisa (the main temple dedicated to the Terton) from that day on would not cross  into Haa, no the people from Haa would be allowed to step over to Paro. However the Terton is said to have taken with him a pair less cymbal which is now one of the main relics in the Paro Dzong, exhibited only on auspicious days.

Locals like Pema believe that a holy mermaid resides in the lake and if you’re prayers are answered she’d grace you with her appearance.. Pema really wishes to see her one day.. I saw the unwavering faith in him for the lake deity while we lit the lamps there .. While it was one of the most memorable hikes for me, for Pema Kencho and Shak it was much more than that. They were happy to visit the Holy Lake of utmost religious significance in Haa.. Had I not had my flight back to India we’d definitely stayed back for a day since the next day was Buddh Purnima making it auspicious. 

 

Well even though it was freezing in snow but I loved it.. As if the universe conspired to bring every element together to make my farewell complete.. I took one last glimpse of the lake and thanked Ap Chundu for making this happen.. We walked through the dense dark clouds making our way to the hut to pick up our bags and push off for the Basecamp.. We knew it was a rough day ahead since the fairytale snowflakes would soon metamorphose to a snowstorm at the pass.. Our fears turned out to be real.. By the time we reached the pass we almost braved what felt like the snow blizzard.. I so wanted to capture the moment but honestly none of us were in a bright state.. The storm made it difficult to walk.. It wasn’t  because of the laborious steps but because the snow pierced our eyes due to the gusty winds.. Even though we wore layers of  clothes and rain coats but it didn’t really help.. We were drenched and cold.. We had to add an extra bounce to our steps to get down to the Basecamp.. There was no way one cud have camped enroute in this weather.. After about an hour and a half we reached the top of the pass.

Tho Yo at the top of the Gocho La

So here’s a Bhutanese thing.. Once you hit the top you are greeted with small stone chortans called Tho Yo..  One’s supposed to offer flowers or add more stones and shout Lha Gey Lo with all his might.. It means Victory to the Gods and praying for one’s safety.. I was so exhausted that I’d only murmur meekly.. We took a two mins break sitting against the chortan trying to get shelter from the devilish snow! The Himalayas were now all concealed within the clouds and everything looked gloomy around.. We were up in fraction of minutes and started walking again.. One felt like a zombie just walking around.. Climbing.. Falling.. Slipping and waiting to just hit the hut.. We decided we’ll have lunch once we reach the Basecamp. The snow had anyway killed our appetite.. After a whole lot of ascents n descents we finally reached our hut around 5ish.

Serenity

 Like always all three of them were already occupied doing their chores.. The sun played peekaboo amidst the clouds and we tried drying ourselves up on whatever little sunlight.. Our feet and hands were numb and all of us stuck around the fire.. Kencho made me Koka.. He wasn’t too convinced with the way I made him make it with extra water n salt!! When the dusk hit the sky the boys decided to make merry.. They asked me if I’d joined them.. Well one last evening with my guides.. I could sure have a sip or two with these kids.. I was amazed how three days were enough to develop faith in this relationship.. We played songs on Kencho’s phone that was going to die any moment.. I loved the Nge Thimphu song by the curly haired singer from the band Misty Terrace.. They showed me pictures of their close friends and family.. We were all relaxed today and talked our hearts out.. Later at night while lying down in my sleeping bag I stared at the moon outside through my tent’s window.. I wondered how it would all change in two days.. How mountains had become my main.. How I was so used to the deafening silence and how I never felt closer to home ever before.. I wished time could stand still.. And even though a tiny part of me missed my boys and the comforting electric blanket and food which didn’t smell of coal, most of me I knew I’d leave behind here! I heard the guys talking and cutting wood till 2am..I had a long night ahead with no sleep and lots of reminiscences!! Sigh! 

 

 

Day 4 : The reluctant retreat

 

Day 4..Leaving a huge part of me behind.. I reluctantly headed back home 

 

Though I was heart broken for the hike was coming to an end but I was definitely looking forward to having a good hot water bath.. I hadn’t seen my face in the mirror for four days now.. All I knew was that my skin was peeling off and that I had massive sunburns.. Every part of me stank  of burnt  coal.. While spraying my perfume Kencho remarked “Madam nice smell!! Is that Chanel” though I was amused but at the same time mighty impressed by the fact that he was so up to date with what’s in vogue..!!

Namgay with his baby yak Babu

While on our way back home we bumped into a herd of Yaks.. Never ever  had I seen a Yak baby.. Namgay, the yak herder had given him an interesting name…  Babu :D!! 

Shak getting Babu to pose with me

 

Babu looked like a taller version of my lil one Haachu.. I tried to pet him but he won’t just come to me. Shak pulled him around and forcibly made him pose for a picture.. He clinged to Namgay as if he were his baby.. I missed my dogs looking at him lick his face.. I don’t know why but Namgay’s face looked so familiar… Wait a sec!! Was he the guy from the magazine!! This guy was famous! .. So couple of months back while flying back from India on Druk Air I was reading their magazine where in this Canadian guy had written about his experiences of camping with a Yak herder at Chele La Pass.. It all sounded so dreamy! I had decided then that I too would do the same.. I so wanted to spend a night at a yak herder’s camp. . Namgays picture was there in the magazine with his hut.. N here just a day before I bid goodbye to this land I bump into the man who’s story inspired me to do what I was doing today.. Sweet Accidents!! So Namgay is 43 years old.. He’s single and he’s been herding yaks for almost 12 years now.. You’d even find him on Facebook.. Pema told me that when he wants to upload a picture he goes on a mountain top and gets back once he’s done socializing virtually… Some motivation I must say!! But by the end of this hike I developed a new found respect for these guys.. Living in the wilderness with just the animals, cut off from the world with none to talk to.. It really isn’t that easy.. Solitude does feel beautiful but it can kill you at times.. Namgay was going to stay at the same hut which was our home for two days.. The guys gave him a lot of ration that was left with us.. We moved in opposite directions.. Shak kept yelling out his name and Namgay reciprocated till he disappeared.. It’s kind of hailing each other when you’ve got no one around in the deep dark mountains .. We reached Tele La.. One last pass. Pema gave me a flower to add to the Tho Yo (stone stupa) and this time around I yelled with all the exuberance Lha Gey Lo!! We were nearing towards the end.. Two hours of descent and we’d be home.

Pema walking amidst the Red Rhododendrons while closing towards Bhagena

The non existent trails enroute Bhagena were tough on our knees… The forest bloomed red with the vibrant Rhododendrons.. We saw almost five varieties of them enroute out of which Pema told me that the orange ones were pretty edible… 

 

As we drew closer to the end, Lord Byron’s lines rang in my head

“There is a pleasure in the path less woods

There is a rapture on the lonely shore

There’s a society where none intrudes

By the deep sea and music in its roar

I love not man the less but nature more 

From these are interviews in which I steal

From all I may be or  have been before 

To mingle with the universe and feel what I can never express yet cannot all conceal!! ” I felt every word today! 

 

Our pick up vehicle waited for us at Bhagena Village.. I thanked my three mates who’d given me so much in the last four days and we decided to meet the next day before I finally bid adieu to the Haa Valley.. And we did meet. My football crazy friends gifted me a soccer shirt which touched my heart..

Pema Shak and I …Kencho clicked this for us. Can’t thank these guys enough..

 .. So this was it! I had the best four days and the two most amazing two years of my life left behind me.. But I’d found my calling.. And it wasn’t The End for I found my own Beginning 🙂