At my favorite village Dumcho |
Mt Jumolahri : My dream climb that remained a dream |
At my favorite village Dumcho |
Mt Jumolahri : My dream climb that remained a dream |
One of the many tree struck by lightning |
Koi Shak: Grimmacing while trying to close the load into a profile sheet! |
We finally hit a meadow on the ridge in two hours.. The Himalayas shone brilliantly and the wild violet flowers carpeted the grass making it a perfect bed for us to lie down… We had our lunch here.. Shak got us some chilled spring water.. Trust me it cud give Redbull or any other energy drink a run for their money!!
Of deep conversations with Pema at the meadow |
Enroute the Pass, admiring nature’s kaleidoscope of colors |
We knew we were running late and the unexpected delay added the dilemma whether to establish the camp earlier than the planned sight.. But then again one’s got to see the availability of fire wood and water around.. We decided if needed we’ll hike around in the dark and that for sure was a damn good decision.. None of us had earlier hiked in the raw darkness of the mysterious Himalayas.. The sky displayed its splendid hues while the sun drowned behind the mighty peaks.. The snow clad mystical mountains basked in the moon’s glory and Kencho was all up for a photo shoot..
Kencho’s obsession with silhouette photography |
We reached the pass.. It was only the four of us with the Himalayas smiling at us from a distance.. From here we had to descend down to a yak herders hut nestled in a green meadow hugged by the mountains from all side.. We walked down with the head torches on staying vigilant for the stories of wild bears and animals played games in our heads.. hiking in dark was though a little intimidating but at the same time was an exhilarating experience.. Crossing dense jungles and boisterous brooks en route we finally hit our Haven around 7ish..
The three musketeers at Gocho La Pass : Pema, Kencho & Shak |
While Shak lit some fire and I rested on a wooden plank Pema and Kencho were already occupied fixing my tent.. I all of a sudden felt a splitting headache with some nausea! Damn was it the high altitude effects! While I decided to lie down for a bit, these guys promised me a hot spicy bowl of Koka for dinner.. And just when the lively banter started with the wine bottles ready to be toasted upon, the spoiler in me decided to throw up! I felt terribly sick and had almost dropped the idea of hiking further up in my head! While on the other hand the three men dropped their idea of listening to music and taking shots (for which I did feel horribly guilty) I crashed getting in my sleeping bag missing my electric blanket and my two fur babies . Pema, Shak and Kencho too called it a night after my dramatic display of mountain sickness. Even though it was awfully cold the luminous moonlight felt comforting along with the brimming brook singing a lullaby putting us to sleep.
Shak fixing up some Koka for me |
A sliver of sunlight crept in through my tent’s window.. It was the first time that I woke up to the clear blue sky and the sun rays kissing the Himalayas so tenderly .. I looked around to check the time on my phone! Whattt!! It was just 5am! I had to pee real bad so I really couldn’t laze around in my tent. . It was biting cold outside.. I decided to venture out into the woods to attend to the nature’s call.. My three guides slept like logs.. Just when I stepped out of the hut I was greeted by a massive Yak! I froze for a minute for it gave me an unfriendly stare… It looked like it was 8 am.. All I could hear was Shak snoring.. The streams gurgling.. The birds chirping and the Yaks grazing.. What a beautiful repertoire of nature! I walked around clicking some shots.. I still felt a lil weak.. But decided to continue my hike come what may.. So popped in some Diamox to avoid any kind of unpleasantness later in the day.. I went back to my tent and laid down until the trio was up! I didn’t want to wake them up since they deserved every bit of rest. They’d been on their toes since last morning..
0500h outside the yak herder’s hut |
The shy Yak giving me an unfriendly stare |
Finally around 8ish we all woke up from our deep slumber.. The first thing my guides asked was how I felt n if I were be able to continue with the hike.. I’d obviously scandalized them the previous night.. I’d told them I couldn’t wait to leave for the next basecamp.. I could see a sense of relief on their faces.. I was kind of touched by their sense of concern! While I generally avoid breakfast (not so proud of it) my guides n friends advised me to eat well since today’s climb was an arduous one.. They fixed me one of bread butter and eggs.. Just when I thought it was probably my heaviest morning meal ever, my hosts offered me a bite of their ‘Breakfast’. They sure took the proverb ‘Eat breakfast like a king’ a bit too seriously !! Beaf.. Pork.. Potato n Rice!! Man! Now I knew how the mountain people ran around in the hills while I struggled to match up their stamina! We’d decided to leave quite a lot of stuff behind so that Shak was comfortable carrying stuff further up in the third bag.. I could walk guilt free today.. Little did I know that the next few hours of climb was going to be challenging as hell..
The only bridge enroute, balance streams demanded hopping on |
Carpeted trails courtesy Green Moss |
We finally left our base by 10…we did a lot of stream crossing.. Out of so many of them this one particular brook had a beautiful wooden bridge over it with fluttering prayer flags breaking the monotonous sound of the river… We hopped over a million moss draped rocks.. One of the places looked like a moss factory .. You’d see green gallore .. The sun decided to be mean and sucked out whatever energy I’d left in me… I was out of breath.. The climb was actually challenging more so beacuse of the weakness in me since last night.. I was taking baby steps and Pema walked every step along with me.. He displayed tremendous patience. The next pass still looked light years away! Kencho looking a bit concerned asked me ‘Ma’am do you want us to lift you up.. You seem to be quite off.. We can take you around’ !! Throughout the hike they wouldn’t let me hold a single thing.. They’d even take care of my jacket n sipper.. Now only thing left was carrying my weight around! Well I just joked around saying I am not that old yet n that I’d be able to walk just that we might have to do hiking in dark again.. En route Pema told me some interesting folklores about the lake, discussed his life goals and told me about his friends.. Some who are studying in India while some doing well for themselves in Thimphu… His conversations kept me distracted from the pain.. Just when we’re about to reach the pass we saw a herd of horses approaching towards us with some local guides.. We sat on the hill giving them way.. They were coming back from Nubtshonapata and heading towards the base camp.. Six horses with truck loads of heavy stuff like cylinders, tents, ration and what not.. and here I cudn’t even bear the weight of my DSLR! Kudos to these animals!
The load carriers in the upper reaches |
Their clients were way behind.. A German couple whom we met much later after crossing the pass! I could finally see the pass.. It was just a stones throw away.. The beauty of a pass is that while you are climbing you are totally exasperated and at times you feel you’re done but the moment you hit the top you feel like you’re transported to another world… The sight was of one to behold.. The magnificent snow kissed Himalayas stood mighty in front of us.. They’d dwarf the very existence out of you!! We crashed on the meadow.. Staring at the Himalayas.. Going on a picture clicking spree.. for the first time I saw Shak in high spirits.. He posed for the pictures, wore his shades even though it was getting packed up.. I loved capturing all three of them in their young wild and free mode!
Hindi movie action sequence |
The boys in high spirits at Gocho La |
We decided to move now since we had two more passes to climb up to! We met the German couple en route.. They’d asked us when we started from Haa.. We replied in unison yesterday! He was quite taken aback and showed us thumbs up since this particular hike for tourists is planned for good 15 days.. And then he asked where are horses were to which Pema replied “we’re our own horses” the old German had a startled expression and gave us thumbs up yet again !! They told us how majestic the view was of all the Himalayan peaks.. Kanchenjunga.. Jumolahri.. Gangkar Puensum etc.. What followed next was a little unnerving.. We had a landslide struck route and there was hardly any sign of trails.. A toe left or right and I’d for sure go sliding down into the steep narrow gorge.. I caught hold of Pemas hand like a little toddler. He would make way for me in the loose mud by digging foot marks.. I breathed a sigh of relief on reaching the meadow.. There was a glacial stream flowing by and the spot was perfect to stop for lunch..
The glacial stream where we pit stopped for lunch |
Kencho decided to be the chef for the day.. we lit fire and he made me Koka which I must say tasted great in spite of the heavy burnt coal flavor.. The men again had some.. A lot of non veg..
Making a rudimentary chula |
We started to climb for the next pass.. Even though the route was loaded with slippery rocks n leaves I found it much easier than the morning climb.. The high altitude of course played nemesis in between but then again as we approached the pass the panorama ahead of us made up for all the fatigue n tiredness.. I told Pema to walk ahead of me since I wanted to click some candid shots of him while climbing
Pema trudging along the narrow trail |
While he was almost up on the pass it looked like he was having a rendezvous with the clouds.. At this point I so wanted to listen to Lord Hurons “to the ends of the earth” but sigh I had to save up the battery though I’d still hum it in my head.. “oh there’s a river that winds on forever I wanna see where it leads.. Oh there’s a mountain that no man has mounted I wanna stand on its peak.. Out there’s a land that man don’t command I want to be the first to arrive.. To the ends of the earth would you follow me.. There’s a world that is meant for our eyes to see!! I fell in love with every element around.
The magical and mystifying Himalayas |
Well! It was past four now and we’d better hurry up.. somehow Murphy has always had a soft corner for me! Just when I was all pumped up to cover the last few miles to the lake my thigh decided to act funny.. It was a decent descent now and my leg wasn’t happy walking straight.. So there I started limping around with the rod troubling me.. Perhaps due to the drop in temperature.. I was thinking what Pema must be thinking of this guest with such a defective body (in the words of my helper) I tied my muffler around my thigh tightly to numb to feel the pain.. I could feel a sudden sense of sympathy around so much so that Shak instead of pacing up walked around with me… We hit this snow patch in a bit crossing which was an ordeal.. Since we were walking along the slope gradient.. Now came the part where in I felt vintage and super old.. So Shak grabbed my left n Pema my right hand and we walked a mile in snow.. I couldn’t stop laughing on how we literally crawled over the icy paths.. My company sure must have thought I was one crazy woman for I almost cried for the pain in my rod and the very next moment I was laughing my guts over it.
Improv compression band : my muffler |
Did I just spot a lake!? Hell yeah… The sun was falling into the lap of glistening Himalayas.. I could see peaks of Kanchanjunga playing hide and seek with the clouds.. Our hut stood beneath us on a meadow.. The clouds hovered by.. It was my Alice in Wonderland moment.. Everything I’d dreamt of was turning out to be real… I sat down with Kencho on the hill top staring at the lake and our Haven while Shak and Pema were off to collect the woods.. We all were relieved.. Even though the lake wasn’t too far away we decided to check it out early morning.. The soothing silence was hypnotizing.. Kencho interrupted “Madam can I say something.. Honestly we are happy we did this together.. You’re the first Indian lady we’ve interacted with so close n we really admire your spirit n strength..” umm that awkward moment when someone says nice things on your face… So well I too decided to open up a bit n I told him” Kencho I wouldn’t have had dared to go for an adventure with three random men back in India.. There wasn’t a fraction of a second that I felt uneasy around these 3..they made the hike easiest… I loved their jokes.. The music Kencho played in the evenings and our mad photo shoots… Even though he’s a graduate in tourism from Sikkim and was placed in some of the best companies he decided against it n got back to follow his passion. In the field of adventure… We both took some sunset shots..
Kencho caught off guard while capturing the sunset outside our hut |
We decided to light fire before we’d freeze our ass off.. I was happy today.. The boys could finally drink without the drama but Kencho’s speakers played a spoiler this time.. I could hear the songs cracking so we just listened to them on his phone.. I learnt about the Bhutanese bands the most famous being Misty Terrace.. Nge Thimphu being a rage among the youngsters.. We finally called it a night after gobbling down some Maggie..I went to sleep listening to the winds wailing outside and Kencho and Pema giggling over Shak’s musical snoring treat
Tho Yo at the top of the Gocho La |
So here’s a Bhutanese thing.. Once you hit the top you are greeted with small stone chortans called Tho Yo.. One’s supposed to offer flowers or add more stones and shout Lha Gey Lo with all his might.. It means Victory to the Gods and praying for one’s safety.. I was so exhausted that I’d only murmur meekly.. We took a two mins break sitting against the chortan trying to get shelter from the devilish snow! The Himalayas were now all concealed within the clouds and everything looked gloomy around.. We were up in fraction of minutes and started walking again.. One felt like a zombie just walking around.. Climbing.. Falling.. Slipping and waiting to just hit the hut.. We decided we’ll have lunch once we reach the Basecamp. The snow had anyway killed our appetite.. After a whole lot of ascents n descents we finally reached our hut around 5ish.
Serenity |
Like always all three of them were already occupied doing their chores.. The sun played peekaboo amidst the clouds and we tried drying ourselves up on whatever little sunlight.. Our feet and hands were numb and all of us stuck around the fire.. Kencho made me Koka.. He wasn’t too convinced with the way I made him make it with extra water n salt!! When the dusk hit the sky the boys decided to make merry.. They asked me if I’d joined them.. Well one last evening with my guides.. I could sure have a sip or two with these kids.. I was amazed how three days were enough to develop faith in this relationship.. We played songs on Kencho’s phone that was going to die any moment.. I loved the Nge Thimphu song by the curly haired singer from the band Misty Terrace.. They showed me pictures of their close friends and family.. We were all relaxed today and talked our hearts out.. Later at night while lying down in my sleeping bag I stared at the moon outside through my tent’s window.. I wondered how it would all change in two days.. How mountains had become my main.. How I was so used to the deafening silence and how I never felt closer to home ever before.. I wished time could stand still.. And even though a tiny part of me missed my boys and the comforting electric blanket and food which didn’t smell of coal, most of me I knew I’d leave behind here! I heard the guys talking and cutting wood till 2am..I had a long night ahead with no sleep and lots of reminiscences!! Sigh!
Pema walking amidst the Red Rhododendrons while closing towards Bhagena |
The non existent trails enroute Bhagena were tough on our knees… The forest bloomed red with the vibrant Rhododendrons.. We saw almost five varieties of them enroute out of which Pema told me that the orange ones were pretty edible…
Pema Shak and I …Kencho clicked this for us. Can’t thank these guys enough.. |
.. So this was it! I had the best four days and the two most amazing two years of my life left behind me.. But I’d found my calling.. And it wasn’t The End for I found my own Beginning 🙂