Anecdotes From Morshing: Chapter 1

In the deafening silence of a cold wintery night

I let my mind wander as my thoughts take a flight.

To a faraway land so quiet and remote

It only gets more vivid as I scribble another anecdote.

Had Never Heard Of Morshing Until…

It’s the month of July, perhaps the most dreadful time. I lost a big chunk of my heart, my little Haachu (my soul dog). I had never seen grief up-close until now. It’s been a couple of weeks hiding from the world and nothing seemed to pull me out of the torment. If there’s any place that might have helped me heal, would definitely be the mountains for that is where I and my child belonged, to the mountains of the Lama land. I needed a journey to mend my broken soul and the universe helped by leading me yet again to a lesser-known hamlet in the Eastern Himalayas of Kalaktang …Morshing found me when I needed it the most.

i walk a lonely road, without a soul around. An immersive hike from Shergaon to Morshing

I planned on going to Shergaon since quite a few friends had written about it especially during the Rhodo festival. But maps somehow are my game changers. I saw a road diverging from the main highway to a town nestled in the wilderness, it said Morshing. The urge to go off the mainstream routes always gets the better of me and no matter how daunting the idea seems on the surface, deep down when you indulge in your travel fantasy world there’s nothing more satisfying to explore a place that no one told you about or has even been explored for that matter. There was one homestay that showed up on google, did some frantic searches for shared sumo services from Balipara,and hence began my journey to Morshing.

DAY 1

finally taking off after an hour long wait at Balipara, Assam

As told by the Sumo guy, I reached the Balipara Chawk unerringly at 6 am. On spotting no vehicle around, i called up the driver who sounded like he was forced out of his deep slumber. ‘ Thoda sa wait karega madam, 7 baje tak aayega na’ he quipped from the other end. I felt like I was in a movie scene with drama unfolding when a sudden burst of showers made me run with my backpack to find some shelter. A sleepy local dhaba was gearing up for the day and I told the man to get me a Laal Chai ( assamese black tea) . The owner, who didn’t look like a local, was bossing around the waiter in a not so very affable manner. I drowned myself in the book to fritter time away and not think too much about the rude owner.

as green as it could get…the road from Balipara to Bhalukpong bathed in green

Finally an hour later I grabbed myself the front seat with two other male co passengers in the back. The driver puts a plastic and canvas sheet on the carrier on top to prevent our bags from getting drenched. It’s pouring mad by now and I wonder if it’s a good sign. The sumo trudges along the countryside, swishing by the paddy fields that have seemed to turn greener as the rains bathe them in paletes of monsoon, intermittently crossing tunnels of orchids hanging by the giant old trees loaded with Ferns of all kinds. I was getting out of home after three long months and the damp air outside already filled up my senses. I felt like I was watching a movie all along with people on the road playing a plethora of characters. Somewhere short of Bhalukpong, the driver slowed down as the rain slashed grudgingly against the windscreen turning us partially blind. A couple probably in their 40s sat on the bamboo stools in their verandah sipping on their morning tea in those Assam Type Houses, the walls of which were yet to be painted. The undulated cement grey colors stood in stark contrast to Supari trees that dotted their courtyard. It was a humble abode, but it looked whimsical. I wondered if they ever felt stressed living in such calming environs but then i thought of someone assuming the same about me seeing me travel recklessly around the grain of the country like I had no care in the world. Little would they know how desperate I was i to run away from my misery. Struggles are universal and no one ever had it easy after all. suddenly savan mein lag gayi aag blaring on high volume obstructed my thoughts and I realized we’d left the crowded littered town of Bhalukpong far behind.

Dhabas with a view like that…. something about the bridges in the mountains

So much like my Haachu ….

A little short of Tenga the driver decided to stop for breakfast. There was a small dhaba made out of bamboo probably run by his family, for he unloaded a lot of ration. A beautiful suspension bridge called me out across the road. It lead to a village on the hilltop. I saw a young man fishing on the river bank, probably his supper for the day. Two little mutts trailed behind me, one of them a black and white, just like my Haachi. A lot of ParleGs munching and coochi cooing later, our sumo made its way to Rupa.

STUCK AT RUPA

funny what I was reading was what I was going through that moment

the waiting game is never easy for patience aint my virtue

I was dropped off at the bridge leading to Rupa market where I’d have to hunt for a shared sumo up to Shergaon. Thereafter i was on my own. Though the homestay host at Morshing had told me to contact him incase i didn’t find any commute but I was determined to do those 18 kms on my own. The heart craved for an adventure like never before and perhaps a story to take back home. I whiled away an hour and a half, sitting under a big tree waiting for the sumo only to find out it was jam packed and had no room. The locals told me to ask another sumo who was going to deliver commodities in Shergaon. So, the online deliveries were made only in Rupa owing to its good connectivity and people relied on sumo drivers to deliver their commodities and rations and even atm transactions. If a town like Shergaon that was bang on the highway was so far away from development, I wondered how primitive Morshing would be. I couldn’t wait to find out but sigh when you’re curious about something, the universe makes you wait even longer, probably to make your surprise a tad sweeter.

the route from Rupa to Shergaon is nothing short of a fairytale. if only I had my cycle here

The sumo driver was a Nepali from Darjelling who kept telling me ‘bas abhi thodi der mein niklega’ and those few minutes turned out to be an hour long wait. I plonked myself on the back seat and buried myself in the book. The road wound along the boisterous river and the forest on either side of the smooth highway made the breeze nice and nippy. I along with the Nepali driver and a schoolgirl and of course a dozen sacks of onions and rice, salt and cartons drove past the emptiness that felt so full and complete. Every time he delivered the supplies, the people would give him a 100 or 200 Rs note, and he would come back to the sumo smiling asking me ‘ Akele kaise ghumta hai madam, Morshing kaise jaayega’

not a big fan of selfies but you’ve got to have pictures of moments like these for in the end it is the memories that’s all you’ve got.

I finally said goodbye to him around 3 pm and assured him I’d be safe. He even called up a friend of his who was to drive from Rupa to Morshing later in the evening. I still remember the concern in his tone ‘Arey thoda pehle nikal jaao na, madam akela kaise jaayega’ I find myself grinning ear to ear while typing this. God bless him!

With butterflies in my stomach, bones that have rusted over the last couple of months yet a fearless heart, I set out on my journey finally. Eighteen kms on the road seldomly taken, just me and my rucksack like old times.

intimidating yet so inviting! the road that’s always made the difference

The cicadas hummed from the deep dark oblivion.

The feeble sun gave way to the clouds again

I fear not the unknown, for its the road not taken.

That’s unfailingly helped me meet myself, at the end of the lane.

Morshing had the most beautiful surprise waiting for me. all about that in the following blog post.

Here’s a little teaser below

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvfRx5Eg0R_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Things You Need To Know While Planning A Trip To Morshing

Inner Line Permit

An inner line permit is required for Indian (domestic) tourists’ entry into Arunachal Pradesh. you can download the form from Arunachal portal and apply for ilp at arunachalilp.com.

Homestays In Morshing

I stayed at Kunphen Homestay at Morshing with Mr Lobsang and had a wonderful time with his family and school. He also takes you around and explains the historical and cultural significance of the places in his and the neighboring villages of Dumkho and Sanglem.

Mr Lobsang’s contact details: 9402708518

How To Travel To Morshing

So, there are two routes.

From Tezpur/Balipara to Rupa via Bhalukpong
From Rowta To Kalaktang via Sheragon

for both the routes shared Sumos are available. Buses also ply on these routes, however their regularity is questionable. I had taken a shared sumo from Balipara to Rupa and it cost me Rs 500. Thereafter another sumo from Rupa to Shergaon cost me about 300. I hitchhiked my way through Shergaon to Morshing but if you find that idea too adventurous for your liking you can request the host to tie up a commute for you. Though I really urge you to walk that route and hitch a ride with the locals. It’s worth all the few minutes of discomfort.

Phone Network At Morshing

Only BSNL works at Morshing and that too provided there’s no power cut in the village. Unfortunately, or rather fortunately there was a two-day long power cut while I was there and I stayed blissfully disconnected from the world.

Solo In Nagaland…Chapter 1: Kigwema

MIA

Fiddling with my keypad for an hour now, I try hard to wake up my blog from a deep deep slumber. In Case you’re wondering where’d I go missing, did I not travel all these months? or was it just the creative slowdown? more commonly known as writer’s block ( not even sure if i could use that fancy a term for mere mortals like myself for whom writing is synonymous to puking my feelings out in the form of random unfiltered travel rants. So what makes me write today then? Two prime reasons for that

I am visiting my folks in Delhi and somehow I feel the city eats my charm. Writing about trips is therapeutic, it makes me feel closer to that place, transporting me to all those neverlands.

There’s just so much you learn while traveling and even more when you’re doing it alone for there’s so much time and space to introspect. Nagaland trip was exactly that. Every time i visit a different place i realize I know nothing about my country and her tribes!

I was sitting in the Delhi metro watching the hustling city zoom by when I found another female co-passenger smiling at me. On seeing my puzzled expression she exclaimed, ‘Your mask! Are you from the north east?’ Aha! I realized my mask spoke before I could introduce myself. A traditional Nagamese design with the typical leaf shaped spears decorated with red tufts all delicately embroidered by the Angami tribe women of Kigwema. I picked it up in December during this incredible backpacking trip to Nagaland. The feeling of belongingness to a place that I call home for perhaps just this year was overwhelming. Thanks to this random stranger that i just met in this crazy metro rush, the heart felt like sharing travel tales from her place. Isn’t it amazing how we end up finding motivation at places that we least expect.

What I Thought About Nagaland!

Like most of the people living outside of the north east I too had a very skewed perception of Nagaland. Long time ago when I was in college my roomie’s best friend was a Naga. All I gathered from my super brief rendezvous with her was that the Nagas love their pork ( clearly food was all that mattered back then) . Rest of my opinions were made out of the news that I often heard, ‘It’s unsafe. One should not venture out on their own’ is what i mostly heard every time i expressed my interests in traveling to this state. And then Hornbill happened. While it was around the corner, Instagram and bloggers from the northeast couldn’t stop talking about it. Living in Assam I couldn’t have let go of this opportunity and so I decided to shut all those voices in my head that kept intimidating me and went on a reading marathon. Blogs of solo female travelers were reassuring and inspiring and so I document yet another tale from this often misunderstood land of Nagas that turned out supremely incredible so that just in case you too have any lingering doubts or fears like me, you know who to listen.

Beginning Of An Adventure

*Burnt, exhausted yet thrilled….after taking a wrong turn and hiking back to the main road bwtween Mima and Kigwema*

Throwback to 31st November 2021. It’s 8 pm and I’ve just landed in Kohima. The city is lit up like a Roman candle, bedazzled in all its Christmas fervor. It’s nothing like what I’d imagined. Men and women dressed in flamboyant overcoats, berets and boots walk down the streets of Kohima, Cathedrals sparkle like Christmas trees and I can’t help notice an array of coffin shops that endlessly spam either side of the streets. But apart from that what’s not to love about this quaint yet bustling beautiful capital perched on a hilltop. ‘ Kigwema is another 16 kms from here madam. You should be able to find a shared taxi from this point,’ quipped the guy who was kind enough to drop me close to NST. Btw it’s just half an hour back that i confirmed my stay booking at Mr Zhato’s homestay. My plans of attending Hornbill materialized at the last moment and whoever I called in the last two days was fully booked. Thanks to a blogger friend I know through insta, I got Mr Zhato’s contact who was kind enough to fix one bed for me even on a short notice. Until half an hour back I had no idea where I’d be crashing tonight. Well this was just the beginning of my adventures here. Who had thought I’d be camping on a homestays terrace by the end of the trip ( about that later though)

*The quintessential Nagamese kitchen..at Vicha Homestay*..kitchenware mostly made of bamboo and meat/pork hung over the fire place

Two hitch hikes and a km walk later I am finally at the homestay. The place was bustling with a huge bunch of curious enthusiastic travelers. Mr Zhato and his wife welcomed me with a cup of warm Naga tea and even warmer hearts. We sat down around the sigri in the kitchen for a bit getting to know a little about each other just when our conversations were obstructed by the sound of guitar. It is after two long years of covid when i get to see travelers from different corners of the country getting together in this idyllic village that never existed in our knowledge until today. For someone like me who’s a tad socially awkward, I surprised myself during this trip for I blended seamlessly without any apprehensions this time and mostly because of such wonderful folks I met throughout this 6 day journey of mine. I met a woman who’s a mother to two dogs and has hiked many trails in Himachal and Nepal. That’s it. We were glued to our bamboo stools, around the fireplace sipping on endless cups of hot water only to be joined by more people talking and sharing stories from different places all under one roof. It’s just been three hours yet Nagaland already feels like home.

*Survived the winter chill here on this Naga Tea*

*Travelers from different corners of the country*, *sharing the same passion and interests*

Exploring Kigwema Village

*Burst of colours..Neon paddy fields. pink cherry blossoms, colorful tents and the azure blue sky..clicked as i started to hike up to Kigwema village*

While I had only Hornbill, Khonoma and Dzuleke planned on my itinerary, Kigwema and Mima Village were a secret that unfolded like a beautiful present during my conversations with Mr Zhato on the breakfast table while eating the best rice flour cake and Naga tea.

*This rice flour cake was oh so delish…you have got to try this while you’re here*

While Zakhama, Khonoma etc steal all the limelight, Kigwema is only known amongst travelers for stay options due to its proximity to the Hornbill festival venue. But there’s so much more that I actually spent my entire morning hiking to this village and beyond that to the beautiful organic bee paradise hamlet called Mima. During my six days of trip, I rarely had to spend on public transport because I relied mostly on hitch hiking. Truly amazed and touched by strangers kindness, this trip was one of a kind where right from a Bihari man who worked here as a labor on his scooter, to this very polished Manipuri gentleman on his Enfield, to a Naga family driving in their alto to a Nepali driving his taxi and soo many more who just went out of their way to help me reach places that only my homestay owner and google maps knew of. All of them were so different yet they had one thing in common , kindness and warmth galore and that curious question ‘ akele ghoomne mein dar nai lagta?’ little did they know I was a bundle of nerves until just yesterday.

*Monoliths of various shapes and sizes are erected by Nagas in villages and roadsides as a token of respect to the deceased*

After being dropped at the divergent to Mima road, I walked a km and a half only to find A huge gate saying Kipho Mera Khel ( khel denotes a part of village. I had no idea where I was going but I decided to take this route. All I knew was it was going up and was a part of Kigwema village. Endless paddy fields laid beneath, the crops all harvested while one could see bashas ( farm huts) scattered in the middle of the farms. Far away colorful tents popped up in the landscape, a usual sight during the hornbill. I had been walking with my heavy backpack for quite a bit now and decided to sit down at this sunny spot. Small monoliths shone in the comforting winter sun, spirals of smoke spewing up from the huts below. While I sipped on some water trying to catch my breath, my eyes ran across the trees swaying to the tunes of the cold mountain breeze bearing some motivational anecdotes.

*The traditionally carved wood gate at the enterance and exits of villages made by the Angami men.*

Ps: The wooden gates carved by the tribes at their enterance and exits signify different realms of their culture. The heads on tip signify that the village is occupied by quite a few inhabitants, the warrior means the wise man, the round figures signify the sun and moon, the bulls head shows the health of the livestock etc.

*Succulents galore. i took quite a few cuttings from this trip and it is for the first time that the succulent murderer that i am managed to keep them alive 😛*

*From the head hunting times. Back in the day it was believed that the man or the family who hunt the max heads was regarded to be the most prosperous*

A little more hiking and I finally reached the main entrance of the village. A typical stone and wood gate with tribal figures, stars, hens, mithuns and spades carved and painted on it. The village alleys were insanely spick and span and the walls were painted with virtuous quotes. Every house was a riot of vibrant colors with Geraniums and Poinsettias adorning the verandahs. Succulents growing in recycled dabbas and tins enhanced the windows while mithun horns hung at every entrance. If you’re a plant lover like me you’d definitely leave with a whole lot of green souveneirs.

*Every single house, no matter big or small had a stunning collection of plants.*

*Poinsettias in red and yellow dot the countryside*

*Just a crazy plant lady collecting souvenirs on her travels*

Kigwema In World War 2

*The Open Community Library at Kigwema…one of the most brilliant things to come across in a far off village in the mountains*

While walking around in the village in a quest to find Gen Kotoku Sato’s house, (a Japanese Commander who lived in Kigwema during World War 2), I came across this unique Open Community Library, perched on a little slope right beside the road. Two little glass cupboards stacked with books with cement benches around overlooked Mt Japfu, under deep blue azure sky. How therapeutic would it feel to get lost in those stories inked inside those pages watching the sun go down behind those blue hills. I was quite blown away by this mere idea of having something set up like that to ignite young minds.

*While following* *The old lady who guided me to Gen Satos house*

A very kind gentleman asked this old lady who lived near Sato’s house to guide me to the place. I followed her through narrow stony paths, piles of wood stacked on sides, every wall painted with one good positive quote. I was in love with Kigwema already.

*Like sentinels of time.. Gen Satos shelter during World War 2 in Kigwema*

The house stood towards the end, a huge flight of stairs below. It is now occupied by a local Angami family. There were one or two bullet marks still etched in the walls forcing one to think of that bygone era. Kigwema screamed history and stories. During world war 2, Japanese troops arrived in Kigwema on 4th April 1944 around 4 pm. The then Japanese commander General Kotoku Sato was stationed in Kigwema during the famous battle of Kohima.

An elderly person who witnessed the war as a teenager said it was an adventure for them. It was a long war and they were warned by the British making them apprehensive about the Japs but they turned out to be friendly. They lived with their families, paid for everything and unlike the Brits , had no relationships with local women. They never misbehaved. Gen Saito was a very nice man, said the old man.

This Fancy Cafe That I Stumbled Upon At Kigwema

*This incredibly beautiful cafe at Kigwemamade of all things rustic and Naga*

Sometimes while traveling I am often made to believe that I’m a child of the universe. Having said that, I hope I don’t jinx my luck. I was famished and hoped to find a little cafe in the village which was a rare possibility. Just when I spotted this house that stood out amongst the rest.. A board saying ethnic corner marked its entrance. On entering its porch I saw about 25 mithun horns hung over the main door. A signage saying OPEN meant it was more than just a house.. probably a cafe hiding inside those rustic bamboo walls, that my heart had been secretly wishing for.

*clicked by a random yet kind stranger at the enterance of this gorgeous cafe*

If i had to describe this little cafe in simple words it’d be All things aesthetic, all things sustainable, all things homemade. The Angami women who run this cafe made it from whatever was available in the village and the decor not only looked aesthetically pleasing but also every little thing boasted of their unique culture. I shall let the pictures do the talking.

*These huge big rice graneries are made out of bamboo and are locally called Achii;*

On seeing me sit alone without company, a young couple from Karbi Assam asked me to join them at their table and just like that I ended up making two more friends over a cup of Naga tea in this quaint little cafe at Kigwema.( i found people unusually sweet and kind this end)

Ps: they have recently started running a homestay too.

*Spick and span streets OF Kigwema. wasso mighty impressed with the inhabitants of this place*

Kigwema was this sweet puzzle that got only more and more interesting as I took new turns and alleys but sadly I had to rush back to the bus stand at Kohima for a new journey awaited me to yet another stunning town of Nagaland. I’m glad I went beyond the Kigwema known to most of us. I know a traveler ain’t supposed to hold biases but I won’t shy away one bit from calling Kigwema, the most beautiful with an incredible bunch of people always ready to go out of their way to help.

Here’s a little virtual teaser of the upcoming blogposts on Nagaland

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THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW WHILE PLANNING A TRIP TO NAGALAND.

INNER LINE PERMIT

An inner line permit is required for Indian ( domestic) tourists entry into Nagaland. You can download the form from Nagaland Portal and apply for an ILP at ilp.nagaland.gov.in. If you live in Delhi, Kolkata, Shillong or Guwahati, you can apply at the Nagaland House present in these cities.

Here are the helpline numbers that work between 10 am to 3 pm.

00919856692445

00919863579424

I applied for My ILP online and it was processed within 24 hours.

HOMESTAYS IN KIGWEMA/ WHERE TO STAY?

Kigwema makes an ideal base since it is just a stone’s throw away from the Hornbill venue (Kisama Heritage Village) I stayed at Vicha Homestay which is not only budget friendly with the best bunch of hosts ( Mr Zhato and his wife) but also just a km walk away from the Hornbill venue because of which i ended up saving a lot and spend more days exploring.

*my warmest hosts..Mr Zhato and his family*

Here’s the Homestay Contact : Mr Zhato 7005130393

Ps: If you are visiting around the Hornbill time make sure you book in advance for most of the places are fully booked. Mr Zhato was kind enough to accommodate me at the last moment.

GUIDE FOR HIKES AND TREKS

Taking a guide for treks to Dzuoku and Japfu is mandatory while Khonoma also requires a mandatory guide. Passing on the contact of this really noble gentleman who knows the places extremely well and has a lot of knowledge to share about the local culture and places.

Kevin 9383235007

PLACES TO VISIT

While I enjoyed hiking the most and village hopping, there’s so much more that one can do if you have enough time on hands. Must definitely visit Kigwema and Mima villages which can be easily reached and hiked up to. Shall be writing a detailed post on Mima.

If you’re looking for a good trek, you must plan on doing the famous Dzukou Valley and Mt Japfu and Saramati peak.

The Japfu peak is also famous for being home to the tallest Rhododendron tree in the world.

Visit the Kohima War Cemetery and the Cathedral. It’s a memorial dedicated to the soldiers who died during the second world war in Kohima.

The World War 2 Museum located at the Kisama Heritage village has some vintage war equipment and remnants and is quite an interesting place giving you a sneak peak into the lesser known battle of Kohima.

Khonoma and Dzuleke are two idyllic villages close to Kohima with green meadows, bigger mountains, numerous streams offering hikers and nature lovers umpteen surprises. A detailed post on these two shall follow up soon.

How To Travel To Nagaland and Within Nagaland?

To Nagaland

The nearest airport and railway station is in Dimapur which is around a two hours drive to Kohima. Shared taxis, cabs and buses are easily available at the station.

I paid Rs 300 for a shared taxi up to Kohima.

Within Nagaland

While one mostly relies on shared taxis, Nagaland State Transport buses are pretty efficient too plus super budget friendly. I traveled to Khonoma by bus and it was a pretty comfortable ride. Because traveling in this part of the country can get a little difficult due to lack of info given online, here’s a picture of the bus routes and timings along with the ticket fare for your convenience.

PS: However, state transport buses do not operate on Sundays.

I personally am a strict budget traveler and relied mostly on hitch hiking and buses.

Do feel free to reach out or ping me on Instagram if you’ve got any queries. would be more than happy to help. Shall be back with Chap 2 on Mima Village very soon. Till then Happy Travels 🙂

You Know You’re In Walong When!

That nippy December morning, I woke up amidst the pine forest to my alarm blaring into my ears. Groggily getting out of my bed, I looked outside my window. The dawn lit mountains basked in the first rays of Sun, the birds warbled in the trees and mist evaporated over the tin roofs as though dancing in the golden beam rejoicing the start of yet another brand new day. I looked at our two mutts who seemed rather too sleepy for they were snuggled cosy in the blanket with Tee completely unaware of the fact that I was tying my shoelaces which usually is a sign of ‘It’s time for our walk doggos’. It’s usually the two of them waking us up before the alarm but I let them sleep and decide to go alone until I happen to stare at my phone screen flashing the current time as 8:30 AM. ‘Whaaaattt!’ I yelled at all three of them, pulling them out of their beds. We were to start exploring the town at 9 am. Two cups of green tea, a couple of blame games with the husband later we realized who the villian. Our phones messed up. It was only 6 AM. We woke up at the Chinese Standard Time! Wellll! An eventful start is a good start. Also now you know you’re in Walong when you sleep at IST and wake up at CST 😛

Posing in front of the Chinese territory..the third blue hill on my left is a part of China.. Behind’s the enemy line 😛

Walong: Mountain Trails, Intriguing History and So Much More

In mishmi language Walong means a place of Bamboo groves. Wa means Bamboo while Long means Place. The town is nestled in the easternmost Himalayas of our country and boasts of being the battleground of the long forgotten 1962 Indo China war. Being in close proximity to China, the town offers many spots and has renowned villages that give you clear views of the Chinese settlements across the border. So here’s a list of places that you must plan on adding to your itinerary. Promise you won’t be disappointed!

Hike Up To The Dong Plateau To Witness The First Sunrise Of India

Who doesn’t like chasing sunrises and sunsets! And imagine hiking amidst pine forests and verdant meadows to witness the First Light of India. Dong valley boasts of receiving the first sunlight of India. The easy hike up to the meadow is a must do. The entire route and necessary info is given on this post below

Location: 7 kms from Walong town on the west bank of the river.

Walong War Memorial

The Sentinel hills around us stand

Bear witness that we loved our land

Amidst shattered rocks and flaming Pine

We fought and died on Namti Plains

Oh Lohit gently by us glide

Pale stars above us softly shine

As we sleep here in sun and rain

Bernard Dougal

I stood there amidst the mountains, at the War Memorial looking down upon Lohit. The eerie silence in the valley and these words by Bernard Dougal had me imagining this place as a blood bathed battleground in 1962. It is here where the bloodiest battle also known as The Battle Of Walong during 1962 was fought by our brave Indian Army soldiers. The battle is remembered for the steely resolve, valor and unparalleled bravery displayed by the soldiers despite numerous challenges. One cannot not feel goosebumps standing here.

Location: Situated in Walong town right after crossing the market enroute to Tilam.

Walong Waterfall

The picture doesn’t do justice. You have got to see it to believe it

The valley hides tons of stunning secrets that even google or YouTube wont talk about. Here is one such find. The short trail up to the Walong waterfall was surprisingly spick and span signaling no influx of tourists this end. If you plan to check this out after reading this post, kindly refrain from littering. Let us not make this spot another Jogini falls. This 100 to 150 ft high waterfall is by far the most stunning cascade I’ve ever witnessed. The enormity of it is beyond one’s belief.

Location: Situated 8 kms short of Helmet Top

Namati Plains And Battle Remnants

Namti War Memorial…The hills where the bloodiest battle was once faught

With lush pine forests nestled in the folds of the mountains on one side and a wide open valley with lazy Lohit nonchalantly meandering, this place is one of the most Instagram worthy spots east of Walong. For the history buffs Namti War Memorial with remnants of mortar bombs and machine gun bullets lies at the northern end of Namti.

To top it all, a solitary homestay here provides much succour to impromptu hikers and wanderers.

Location: Enroute to Kibithu from Walong

Kaho and Kibithu The Last Indian Villages

Enroute to Kibithu..The easternmost road of India

villages across Lohit on the other side, towards Kaho

Eastern most villages of India, Kibithu and Kaho on either sides of Lohit river boast of being abode to the Meyor tribes. Standing here one can easily soak in a panoramic view of the Chinese settlements across. The ride or drive to both the villages is simply breathtaking with umpteen waterfalls, green pastures and tiny bridges hanging over ever brimming Lohit. Kaho also houses a small Buddhist Gompa.

well you could call this the easternmost house 😛 Last house in Kibithu

Camping at Karoti

If you are looking for a good camping or picnic spot, Karoti is your refuge. Pine forest along Lohit makes it an ideal camping location for nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts.

Location: Right after crossing the border roads establishment at Karoti, next to the Karoti bridge on left side of the road.

Hot Water Springs at Lohit River

The Hot Water Springs in the backdrop( sandy patch)

A small village called Tilam which also happens to be the gateway to Dong has the hot water spring on the Lohit bank right below the suspension bridge to Dong. ideal for a post trek dip.

Location: Tilam village next to the PWD guest house.

My Personal Favorite

Perhaps one of the most stunning villages near Walong

There is this one village that often haunts me in my dreams. That is what mountains and meadows do to me. If you too are a sucker for solitude, go for a walk in the fields of Kundan village. This tiny settlement with just about five houses took me back to my two years of stay in Bhutan. I was keen on visiting the locals but a board displayed a notice requesting visitors to not enter the village premises due to the current pandemic situation. So I simply walked around the fields and sat down here for quite a bit before heading to Kibithu.

Location: Falls enroute to Kibithu after crossing Karoti.

How To Reach Walong

The nearest airport is located at Dibrugarh Assam while the nearest railway station is in Tinsukia, 325 kms away from Walong. There are frequent buses and cabs available both at Dibrugarh and Tinsukia as well as Tezu for your onward journey.

PS : While we covered all these places, we stayed only at Wakro and Hayuliang enroute.

PS: The nearest or last petrol pump before Walong is in Khupa near Hayuliang. So make sure you fuel up your tank here in case you’ve hired a vehicle.

Accommodation

For those interested in staying with the locals, Nomkholong Homestay in Walong is a good option.Here’s the contact of the hosts. 9436635379/9402476123.

There is one homestay in Namti as well.

Apart from this, there is a PWD guest house in Tilam, the place from where the hike to Dong Valley starts.

Route To Walong

Ideally your first stop should be at Tezu/ Wakro, both small towns in East Arunachal. Here is the route that we followed

Tinsukia- Namsai- Wakro- Parshuram Kund- Tohangam- Hawa Camp- Salangam- Tidding- Hayuliang- Chagwanti- Hawai- Walong- Tilam-Dong

GLAW LAKE: THE SECRET OF KAMLANG THAT YOU’VE GOT TO KNOW

Ever stalked random people on social media for travel? While some of you might have an amused look on your face right now, I am sure there are some who are nodding their heads in agreement. While those who find this amusing, let me tell you, I owe my best travel sojourns to stalking locals on Instagram. Well that is how this stunning gem, Glaw happened to me!

HOW I MET BETHEM, MY GUIDE

Last month while trying to find out more about Wakro town, I stumbled upon this amateur vlogger, a young kid, all of 21 named Bethem who started sharing videos of her hometown during lockdown, exploring nooks and corners of her place. She belonged to the Miju Mishmi tribe of Arunachal Pradesh which piqued my interest, so I decided to get in touch with her on Instagram.

A couple of messages were exchanged before I jumped the gun and went on to ask her if I could come stay with her and she could show me around. The husband warned me then ‘she might think you are a crazy stalker! Who messages random people asking them to be your host?’ I retorted ‘ A girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do!’

A month later, I met Bethem. I needed a guide for the trek to Glaw Lake and asked her to help me out. I had already watched her vlog on the same trek and knew she could help. Bethem called me up and said ‘Di, I will try finding someone but if I am not able to, I shall take you guys’. On asking her the guide charges, she said ‘ I can’t take money from you, you want to know about our culture, I am happy to get this chance to give you a sneak peek into the life of us Mishmis. People think of bizarre things..Log humko puchta hai, Mishmi log saanp khaata hai kya? And when we step out of our state they say ‘Welcome to India’ May be you could enlighten them through your posts and blogs that we are one of them, just not so well known’

We met like we were friends already. She guided us throughout, answered all my lamest of queries with the widest smile and made me believe that friendships are not based on age, caste or community but love and zest for similar things. It’s people like Bethem, who make me want to travel and explore places,meet new people and find out about their culture to share it with the world.

GLAW LAKE

Hugged by snowy mountains and dense canopies, hides this pristine beauty called Glaw lake, tucked in the wilderness of Kamlang Tiger Reserve, deep inside the idyllic town of Wakro. It is a huge lake, stretching over an area of 8 sq kms with a circumference of about 5 kms. Some locals say that Glao or Glaw is the source of the Kamlang river that flows across the reserve into the town. The hustling Kamlang river gives you company throughout the trek along with a million Gibbons and other wild dwellers contributing to the soothing forest cacophony. The route is a total of 16 kms that takes you through the tropical rainforest overwhelming your senses with sights, smells and sounds one could only fathom in fables and fairytales.

Difficult roads lead to beautiful destinations

There is lots of folklore about the lake. The Mishmi tribes believe that there are four girls and boys regarded as the deities or gods who reside within the lake and protect not just the lake but anyone around. They say no one can drown in Glaw and that it never gets any muck or leaves or stems on its surface in spite of the numerous trees enveloping this gem.

The mythical lake also has the reputation of throwing unprecedented showers however mild they might be on receiving any person the first time at its premises. I had read in many blogs that people were greeted with mild showers on their first visit. We did not differ from the rest. It rained the day we arrived as well. Has to be some meaning in that folklore! After all serendipities have limits too 😛

Glaw also has a twin sister named Mehao Lake in Roing, Lower Dibang Valley. Both the lakes look almost similar and are a part of the wildlife sanctuaries in their own respective districts. When I watched Mehao Vlog for the first time, I thought Glaw probably has a second name. Identical twins from another mother.

HIKING ACROSS THE TROPICAL RAINFOREST OF KAMLANG

After catching up with Bethem at the decided meeting point right outside the forest department office, we got our permits sorted. It was amusing to see the forest officer wearing a Himachali cap here in this remote corner of Arunachal. He was kind enough to hand over the keys to forest hut built by the lakeside. ‘Araam se sona, baahar bhot thanda hoga na’ he said while handing over the keys to us. The hike that started on a warm note like that had to turn out incredible.

Leaving Tuwam village behind, we were now entering this wild world where the call of the Gibbons welcomed us into their habitat. Rivers are the roads of the forest and Kamlang here curved vigorously, babbling its way through the dense valley. The sunlight darted through the dense foliage lusting to greet the velvety thickets of moss and ferns and the air smelled of fresh pines and herbs. Bethem plucked red colored berries ‘ Anjaw mein sab log ye khaata hai.It is supposed to be good for boosting energy levels’ I asked her the local name for it. ‘Kaho’ she quipped.

The first orangey break next to the forest watch hut

45 mins later we sat down by the river side near the forest watch hut. Most of the breaks revolved around eating local fruits. First being oranges. Wakro is an orange county with endless orchards dotting the countryside. While second was the Elephant Apple, locally called ‘Taki seed’ found in abundance and a favorite amongst Assamese (called Chalta) and Arunachal folks. We reached a rickety suspension bridge that wobbled with every tiny step we took. I scrambled like a petrified kid, taking calculated steps, avoiding vanishing through the cracks and holes on its wooden surface. I looked down for a nano second, through the cracks of the bridge surface, my eyes opening wide on watching the mighty boulders being whisked about by the furious Kamlang, snaking past all obstacles. My legs suddenly tingled, not sure if I was more excited or petrified. While Bethem ran ahead, jumping on the bridge making it swing harder. Her infectious energy made me feel a tad better.

It creaked…it cracked…but look at the pristine Kamlang flowing below

‘Now the real trek starts Di’, she yelled, running up the slippery slope. Slushy narrow trails, the oh so stunning foliage of plants that I’ve never witnessed before, cascading streams, massive rocky boulders almost forming caves and wild banana trees making a tunnel of sorts that hugged the trail from either sides…this is what defined the route now.

Couple that hikes together.. stays together. With huge massive boulders enroute

Negotiating one of the many streams enroute

We stopped at one of the bends where the locals had offered coins, notes, flowers and leaves to the nature gods, over a rock under a tree. The girls bowed down with respect and I followed suit. Mishmis are animists by religion, worshipping nature gods like Sun, Moon, Mountains and Rivers all considered as ‘Amik Matai’ meaning ‘The Almighty‘. This particular spot is considered sacred. The Mishmis believe that they enter the holy vicinity of Glaw Lake this point onwards and ask the Lake and Nature Gods to embrace them with open hearts and protect them. It took me back to many hikes I did in Himachal and Bhutan where locals had similar beliefs and once again reaffirmed my faith in the homogeneity of faith amongst the tribes across the country. Something the boundaries cannot change.

Amik Matai…Amik means Sun while Matai is the creator. While Buroo is God abiding with rivers and Shyuto is God of the mountains

The jungle got only denser and more beautiful after crossing the tourist trekkers hut at Kalai. Most of the trekkers and birders stop at Kalai the first day but the lake was just one and a half hours away from here and it was mostly downslope plus we made it well in time so we carried on.

While the beautiful silence of the forest engulfed us, there were quite a few moments when it was obstructed by the loudest flapping of wings that almost sounded like helicopter blades whirling and chuffing through the tall magnificent Canarium trees. We looked above only to find the oh so enormously wide winged Hornbills, flying in a pair. Needless to say, I was left awestruck.

FINALLY…HELLO GLAW!

While chewing on a local Almond kind of tiny dry fruit called Chahal, Bethem showed me the huge Plantain Leaves ‘ Di! We use these Laphu leaves as plates. I think I’ll collect some for our evening meal.’ I hadn’t seen a single plastic wrapper in my last six hours of hiking and that’s probably owing to such eco friendly practises of the MIshmis in this region. Every time I am in such places I am forced to think how materialistic we urbane dwellers are. I just made a trip to Khurja to hoard more crockery while my guide and friends here from the Mishmi Hills live a simple yet content life. She has everything she needs in these forests that they preserve so beautifully. Houses made of bamboo, utensils made of leaves and most of the food grown in their backyards.

Laphu Leaves used as plates by Miju Mishmis…PC : Bethem

That one last hour is always the most trying one. You know you’re almost there yet there’s no sign of the lake. Bethem kept saying ‘ Lake aane wala hai, bas pahuch gaya’ and then through the dense foliage I saw something shimmer. Not ready to believe my weak eyes, I checked with Tee. Yes Glaw it is. The laborious steps suddenly paced up, striding across all obstacles for every inch scaled unveiled the lake, as though unpacking a surprise gift waiting for us. Glaw had me dumbstruck. I had seen her in videos, in a few pictures but this gem right in front of me was perhaps the most stunning lake I ever witnessed. And earning this view made it even more special. I threw my rucksack aside and just sat down staring at the snow-clad mountain basking in the faint evening light while the wilderness of Kamlang reflecting on Glaw so so sooo beautifully.

just when we reached Glaw..look at that dramatic sky

A fisherman hut stood by the lake, smoke billowing out of it. It called me out. Two Miju Mishmi men sat inside washing and cleaning fish. They were here to collect fish for a wedding in the family. Fish along with Mithun meat is their staple. While walking in the village bylanes of East Arunachal, it is common to find men and keen young kids roaming around with catapults and arrows. Till very recently hunting was legal in this remote corner of our country. What else would a man rely on in wild cut off places like these. The two men were extremely warm and happy to see outsiders coming to see the lake. ‘ Baahar se hardly koi aata hai. Aap aaj humaare saath yahaan ka khaana khaayega’ One of them tied his makeshift bamboo raft with bamboo strings on the lake shore. Seeing them balance it out on a three logged bamboo raft was an experience in itself. Such hardy men and what daring lives they must live.

Later in the evening we sat down around the fire, listening to Mishmi songs while cooking Lai patta saag, rice and fish. Bethem shared some stories untold. Of her village in Kathan that they left behind, how she spent her childhood living in the higher reaches of Anjaw, teaching me some Mishmi words and giving us an insight into her Miju Mishmi culture. I also learnt that Mishmis are not very expressive when it comes to feelings and don’t use many words of appreciation.Also they don’t follow the usual way of greetings saying Hi etc. Kisikmei and Umm are the only words I remember from my Mishmi vocabulary and ofcourse another one that i would use towards the end of the post.

Yours truly pounding garlic and chilles in traditional style at the local Mishmi fishermen’s hut

Next morning the lake appeared like a dream. Mist rose from the lake to kiss the slow moving clouds while the snow clad mountains looked at the clouds dancing with ever so affectionate eyes. My heart was overwhelmed with mixed feelings. I wanted to scream out of euphoria, capture everything in pictures,at the same time leave the camera aside and just be, sit still staring at the mist flare up into the clouds, a part of me wanting to go feed the Mithuns with salt.

Early Morning Mist and the enchanting Glaw

Glaw was the kind of magic that I perhaps felt just once in life before.

Try this at your own risk. Then again there is no risk as no one drowns in Glaw.

Tee was reliving his Rowing days from the academy times. He did it so effortlessly

And once again, in a far off land, with yet another lesser known tribe, amidst the soulful sounds of Kamlang forest, I sat down scribbling pages, inking stories so that you and I know a little more about this world, residing within our country yet so alien and unknown but a very part of our own.

Concluding this post in Mishmi style ‘ Promangnai Glaw! Pra Li Ga Athu Kesa

I know easier said than done but if only i could own a tiny little hut like that far away from the mainstream world, right beside Glaw

From L TO R: Tee, Bethem, I, Bethems cousin, Two Mishmi fishermen who fed us breakfast and took us around on their bamboo raft. in the background are two over friendly Mithuns who almost adopted Tee 😛

IDEAL TIME TO VISIT GLAW

October to March are the ideal months to hike up to this lake. The route gets extremely slushy in rains and the leeches make it even more difficult in monsoons.

HOW TO REACH GLAW

The nearest airport is in Dibrugarh and the railway head in Tinsukia while the local one in Ledo. One can easily get shared cabs and buses from here.

Wakro is just a three hours drive from Tinsukia.

PHONE CONNECTIVITY

While there is good connectivity in Wakro town, there is no network inside Kamlang Tiger Reserve.

ACCOMODATION

Carry your tents and sleeping bags along. There are three huts at the lake. One is the fisherman’s hut which is usually occupied by the men who are there for their work. While the other one is in a dilapidated state. Third hut belongs to the forest department. Moreover one must camp at a place like Glaw for a wholesome experience. Incase of rains you can pitch your tent inside the view point hut.

MOTORCYCLE DIARIES….CHAPTER: PANGSAU PASS

That December morning, while riding into the mysterious Patkai Hills, the crisp winter breeze greeted my face eagerly with its ever so playful warmth. The clouds danced mischievously across the skies parting way for the amber sun rays to provide some succour from that damp forest air engulfing the solitary wheels trudging its way up the curves of the legendary Stilwell Road. The hum of the Royal Enfield’s charismatic dug dug interrupted the cacophony of monkeys, chirping birds & rustling leaves of those tall bamboo groves swaying ever so gently. As we left behind Nampong, the last town before the Indo-Myanmar border,

I couldn’t help but wonder as to how lucky I was to venture into this part of our country which until a few months back, I also feigned ignorance about. So here’s another stunning secret of the North East that’s not just rich in terms of beautiful locales and culture but also holds great historical significance. Pangsau is truly a destination for any and every kind of traveler.

PATKAI HILLS OF ARUNACHAL PRADESH

It is strange how I only remember reading about the Himalayas,or probably Khasi and Jantia hills in the North East, back in the day at school. Perhaps some chapter in Geography might have mentioned about Patkai hills but the fact that the name never occurred again explains why it all sounded so alien when I heard about it last year as though hearing it for the first time. For that matter, even Mishmi hills or about any tribes from this region of Arunachal, all sound like mysterious names unheard of.

So the Patkai Hills are the mountains on India’s North Eastern border with Burma.The Three mountain ranges that form the Patkai hills are The Patkai Bum, The Garo Khasi Jantia and the Lushai Hills. Pat-Kai in Tai Ahom language means ‘to cut chicken.’ Patkai runs along the spine of Changlang district, one of the least explored places in Eastern Arunachal.

HEARD OF THE HISTORIC STILWELL ROAD?

Our journey began from this historic landmark that screams stories of valour, grit, determination and the indomitable spirit of the ones who toiled to make this route come alive in the 1940s at the World War 2 time. History never allured me but the stories of Stilwell road piqued my interest like none other. Perhaps reading about Stilwell and then riding on the same route made this trip even more exciting. So here’s the story.

The grand Stilwell road played one of the most vital roles in the trans-regional connection, India-Myanmar-China during World War 2 while fighting against the Japanese. It was built on the old opium route that was utilized to carry out massive civilian exodus in 1942 after the fall of Burma. Earlier known as the Ledo road since it started all the way from Ledo ( a small town in East Assam which is famous for the last railhead) going through Burma to all the way up in Kunming, China in order to deliver military supplies to the Chinese Allies in their fight against the Japs as an additional support along with the air supplies. Many interesting stories revolve around the flying route too which is called ‘The Hump’ which shall follow up later in this post.

Lekhapani , a small town ahead of Ledo and short of Arunachal border was the last railway head back then in 1940s. The station here closed down in the 90s making Ledo the last railway frontier on the eastern axis.

Wall Grafitti at Nampong commemorating the Pangsau Winter Festival

This route was infamous for its natural nemesis like deadly malarial infested forests, torrential rains, treacherous mountains inhabited by unforgiving predators and of course the lurking dangers of enemy attacks resulting in thousands of casualties of workers, labourers and soldiers as they worked on and undertook this route, which gave this route a rather somber name ‘A MAN A MILE ROAD’ A total of 1079 miles from Assam to all the way up to China.

After all those names, the road was eventually renamed as Stilwell by Chang Kai Sheik as a tribute to General Joseph Stilwell ( then Commander of American Forces) as this project was his brainchild.

The road that tool three years to come into being and cost a thousand lives is now hiding in the thick undergrowth of bushes…OldStilwell Road

While closing towards Pangsau pass, we spotted the Old Stilwell Road sign board, buried deep in the bushes, the legendary road that now could easily pass off as a forest trail. While standing there, black and white pictures of that bygone era flashed in my mind that I glanced through while reading about the war.

THE LONG FORGOTTEN WORLD WAR II CEMETERY AT JAIRAMPUR

After crossing Jagun, one enters Arunachal, its first town being Jairampur which happens to be famous for the lesser known and long forgotten World War II cemetery. Though the cemetery looked more of a botanical garden which also is a partial identity of this place as a tiny board on the gate says World War 2 cemetery while a much bigger board says Botanical garden. A huge statue of an archaic looking soldier with sword and shield greeted us at the entrance. About a thousand graves of the allied soldiers who were mostly African American, Kachins, Chinese, Indians and Britishers laid here buried in wilderness hiding under a thicket of moss and ferns.

Though the cemetery is said to have already existed since World War II, no one except the local villagers was aware of its existence. things changed when Assam Riffles found the ruins. Back in the 90s, the large burial ground with more than thousand graves of the allied soldiers as mentioned above, who died while constructing the ‘Man A Mile Road’ were discovered and brought to public notice.

Spread over 3 acres, the cemetery is said to be one of the largest in the north east India. the graves are arranged in five lines and several rows while a large grave located at the center is said to be a mass burial spot. Bricks like Ledo AR&T CO. Brick Fields etc were used to construct the graves. When the graves were discovered, most of them were found in dilapidated conditions, reportedly damages done by wild elephants and grave raiders.it was only after its discovery in the 90s that the boundary wall was erected to prevent further destruction and maintain the cemetery.

It is said that most of the allied soldiers buried here didn’t die of bullets but due to malaria, snake bites, accidents, natural calamities while constructing the longest road of World War II, the Indo China Burma theater. on the same site they also built the world longest war time pipeline for fuel from Calcutta to Burma.

I am not sure if it felt eerie, sombre or beautiful standing there amidst the graves hiding in the wilderness of Changlang.

One of the many graves. Not sure what the symbols mean…Perhaps a name of the Chinese soldier

PANGSAU…THE GATEWAY TO MYANMAR

The ride up to the pass is every nature lover’s delight for the flawless road flaunts the rich flora of this region. I once again gave in to my temptations of bringing a plant home from this side of the state. Giant ferns and taro leaves, umpteen vibrant butterflies fluttering around, sprawling tea gardens throughout the way and Tangsa huts perched on the hillocks shall keep your eyes wide open throughout.

Took this plant back home. Souvenirs from Arunachal

The engine roared as we scaled up the last bit of the climb and were finally greeted by the board ‘PANGSAU BORDER MARKET’ .

‘This is it?’ I asked Tee. We were technically inside Myanmar already. He scoffed ‘ If only getting across borders and boundaries was this simple’ Border Pillar Post 173 stated India on its left and Republic of Myanmar on its right. It took me back to several border posts that I have visited so far of both India Pakistan and Indo China all fiercely guarded and fenced. This was one of its kind. Perhaps it says a lot of our relations with the Burmese 🙂

Emerald carpet of green fields lay beneath the sparkling tin roofs of the Burmese huts that threw out spirals of smoke. My eyes frantically ran across the vast expanse of the Burmese ground, looking for the much fabled Lake Of No Return’ ‘We need to climb further up to find a better vantage point, screamed Tee from a distance.

Behind is The emerald green blanket of farms at Pangsau Village Myanmar.. Clicked on my first trip back in August

Deserted shops stood a little further ahead, awfully quiet, the silence only broken by the rustle of leaves around. During normal times, san pandemic, the border market bustles with vendors from both the countries selling daily life commodities along with few handicrafts. While the Burmese come every Sunday, Indians this side open up their stalls thrice a month on 10th, 20th and 30th of every month. This time around it was only the birds around giving us company. The two of us felt like aliens landing on a planet deserted and abandoned for months.

On normal days, one comes across many Burmese, mostly Women and children selling stuff at the market. Women use Thanaka on their faces to prevent wrinkles and sunburns. Do not be surprised to find women walking around with white looking paint int heir faces. Pic Source: Unsplash

the deserted border market…Burmese shops

We sat at one of the Burmese shops with colorful Buddhist window panels, soaking in the undisturbed views of Patkai hills, wondering how a place so calm and pristine could possibly be called Hell Gate or Hell Pass once. The ground where I sat, once had piles of dead bodies of soldiers eons ago, the very thought of it sending a chill down my spine.

palette of Buddhist colors on one of the Burmese shops

THE FABLED LAKE OF NO RETURN…ASIA’S OWN BERMUDA TRIANGLE

Since the movement across the border has stopped since March last year, we were unfortunate to not have been able to go down to the Lake of No Return. I know the name might have got you all curious. So here’s the story. The lake lies in the Pangsau village after which the pass is named. So this region is famous in the annals of history and commonly known as The Hump, the name given by the allied pilots. After the Japanese blocked the Burma road in 1942, the allied forces resorted to air operations.

As they flew military aircrafts from India to China, flying over this stretch was extremely challenging and dangerous, lack of equipment, radio navigation aids etc making it all the more difficult resulting in numerous accidents with many planes disappearing into the unknown. The Americans called it The Lake Of No Return owing to the number of planes concealed in its depth.

Wikipedia also tells of another story where Japanese soldiers on losing their way ended up at this lake and died due to malaria. While some say retreating British soldiers got lost in its quicksand. Though none of the legends associated with the lake have any basis in fact, the Lake has grown to become a tourist magnet owing to its fabled reputation.

Sitting at the viewpoint hut, I stared at the lake, hiding partially in the winter haze. Whether hundreds of aircrafts perished in its waters or soldiers trapped in its quicksand shall always be a mystery but what laid few miles away from me looked simply surreal and called for another trip perhaps, to witness it up close. I wasn’t done yet.

THE PANGSAU PASS WINTER FESTIVAL

Picture Credits: Nooti Kumar: Nooti’s Chayankan(blog name)

This one of a kind international festival celebrates the culture and art of the tribes of North East India as well as Myanmar. This three day festival exhibits folk dance of various tribes, unveiling their unique culture and traditions, spreading cheer and joy beyond boundaries. While Tangsa, the major tribe inhabiting Nampong and Changlang region of the state display their traditional dances like Rongrang War dance, Lungchang dance, Wancho dance, many other different tribes like Alo, Khamtis, Mizos etc also perform their respective folk dances.

An Aalo Woman Picture Credits: Nooti Kumar: Nooti’s Chayankan(blog name)

I was hoping to be a part of the festival this January but sigh it wasn’t planned this year thanks to the ongoing pandemic. Nonetheless I got a few pictures from a fellow blogger who attended this extravagant cultural affair last year and his pictures shall give you a glimpse of the event that must surely go into your wishlist.

The Singpho Girls Picture Credits: Nooti Kumar: Nooti’s Chayankan(blog name)

While this was my second visit to Pangsau, like I said earlier I am not done yet. Maybe my cycle would like to show me around next time hopefully when the border market is bustling again with folks from both sides, giving me stories to write perhaps not from the past but present this time. I am attaching the link below of Nooti’s blog post on Pangsau Festival. Give it a look in case you wish to know more about the festival

https://dreamsofdolphin.co.in/f/pangsau-pass-international-winter-festival

TRAVEL AND STAY INFO

HOW TO REACH

Mahanbari Airport in Dibrugarh, Assam is the nearest airport to Nampong, situated about 165 kms away.

While Tinsukia is the nearest long distance express railway station and Ledo which is just 65 kms away is the nearest local passenger train station.

Buses are available from Tinsukia. One might have to catch a bus to Margarita or Digboi and then change for either Jiarampur or directly for Nampong here.

WHERE TO STAY

There are a couple of places available at Nampong. Here are some

Circuit House Changlang, UD Guest House, Chatim Lodge and Songru Homestay are easily accessible for bookings online.

PLACES TO VISIT

The Historic Stilwell Road : Already described above in the blog, this historic route runs down all the way from Lekhapani in Assam to Nampong in Arunachal to Pangsau pass on the Indo Burma border, winding further up the mountains of Patkai range threading the Hukawng and Mogaung valleys.
Jairampur World War II Cemetery
Lake Of No Return situated at Pangsau Village on Myanmar side
Manmao is a village that falls enroute to Nampong and is worth a visit for panoramic views of Patkai hills and also to witness village life of Tangsa tribe community.
Other nearby places that can be visited are Miao and Namdapha national park

INNER LINE PERMIT

One needs an inner line permit to get into Arunachal. This can be obtained online or through a local tour operator. A covid negative report is mandatory along with the ILP.

Hiking In Dong Valley To Witness The First Sunrise Of India

The more I travel, the more I see

It only reaffirms my faith and makes me believe

There’s no country or land as beautiful as mine

Her mountains, rivers and tribes forever outshine

Enchanting beauty that Arunachal is…hiding in oblivion

Ending the year with a good hike in the mountains with our two dogs is a yearly ritual of sorts. And being able to do that in 2020 was a blessing in itself thanks to the fact that we are based out of the north east. We’ve travelled to many places with our dogs but this trip was super special. ‘ Why though?’ You ask! For there might be sunrises aplenty, but this is where the sun wakes up India first. In this lesser known Eastern Himalayan village called Dong, tucked far away in the easternmost corner of India. So here’s how we checked ‘ The First Sunrise Of India’ off our list.

WHERE EXACTLY IS DONG?

So the eastern part of Arunachal as compared to its western counterpart is much more unexplored, underrated and lesser known. The roads in this part of the state are truly less taken for there are places where they barely exist. The seven major districts in Eastern Arunachal are Changlang, Longding, Namsai, Lohit, Anjaw, Lower Dibang and Upper Dibang. All distinct and diverse in their culture, traditions, tribes and even flora and fauna. But what remains constant throughout is the boundless beauty of nature and surprises that they offer to explorers, birders, travelers and hiking enthusiasts. Dong is situated in the Anjaw district, a home to the lesser known Mayor as well as Mishmi tribes.

OUR JOURNEY TO THE EASTERNMOST HINTERLANDS OF INDIA

The Fango and Famgo route…wilderness at its best

We set off for our first destination, a small hill town called Wakro that has with time become my favorite hill station around. A comfortable five hour drive from Tinsukia, Wakro is usually off the tourist radar and travellers driving or riding up to Anjaw usually go via Tezu, a rather more flamboyant cousin of Wakro. For a more holistic experience, you must visit both the towns on your round trip.

We stayed at Wakro while heading back and hiked up to one of the most stunning lakes, hiding in the wilderness of Kamlang Tiger Reserve of Arunachal called The Glaw Lake. Perhaps it deserves a whole new post, so about that later.

If there’s one thing that would catch your eye while traveling in this region, it would definitely be umpteen number of bridges and the variety of them. Scanty villages flung across the mountains are now connected via wobbly suspension bridges. The population in this side of the country is just 4 people per sq km and it was only recently that these bridges became a part of the local infrastructure. Till very recent times, villagers would make their own makeshift ‘flying fox ropeways’ and fearlessly slide across the roaring turquoise Lohit river.

Almost like a tunnel of greens with a ray of light at the end

The Birds Eye view of Lohit from Hawa Camp

While Hawa Camp offers undisturbed birds eye view of Lohit Valley and the shimmering Lohit river,the road after Udayak pass is a serpentine drive along the densely wooded forests, a treasure trove for plant lovers and nature craving nuts. I stopped the car quite a few times, quite to my husband’s dismay, snipping off some beautiful Philodendron cuttings and many others with gorgeous foliage rarely seen in the towns and cities. If there’s one thing that North East and corona have gifted me in abundance is the love for gardening and obsession for plants and this entire stretch from Hawa Camp until Tiding, the route also known as Fango and Famgo with endless hairpin bends, had my eyes wide open in awe of the sylvan paradise on display.

Tidding Bridge…Gateway to Anjaw..a newly formed district carved out of Lohit

Tidding, a tiny hamlet by the river side and a massive suspension bridge hanging over it marked our arrival at Anjaw. A huge big board saying Welcome to Anjaw greeted us. Dhaabas or eateries in this part of the country are a rarer of the rarest sight but a small shop with a rather spiritual name ‘God Bless You’ served tea and pakodas here. God bless God bless you i murmured to myself for we were so in need for a chai break. The road hereafter gets difficult and bumpy with undulating slopes, gravel and rivulets defining the route. We were pleasantly surprised to find a fancy looking shack serving lunch by the river side on reaching Hayuliang. Hayuliang in local Mishmi language means ‘ A Place Of Respite’ and it literally turned out to be one. I could easily count the number of villages and eateries that we came across on this entire stretch from Wakro onwards and it would definitely not exceed a single digit number. But i guess that’s the whole beauty of it. Unadulterated, East Arunachal lies hidden yet content in this corner of India left far behind by time. North east truly at its offbeat best. Though there’s nothing much to see in Hayuliang but the town does offer splendid views of the confluence of Dalai and Lohit rivers. A diversion from here also leads to this lesser known town or rather hamlet called Chaglagam, which yields highest production of large cardamom in the state. The town rarely sees visitors as the roads up to here are treacherous and not for the faint hearted.

DID YOU KNOW ARUNACHAL HAS ITS OWN HAWAI!

Little would people know that we have our own Hawai here in India. In Mishmi language Hawai means ‘pond’. You would find an acre of land right in the middle of Hawai which was said to be a pond earlier and is now used for perennial paddy and pisciculture.

The engineering marvel that it is…the bridge leading to Hawai

We decided to make a quick stop here before we would finally hit Walong. Hawai is the Headquarters of Anjaw district, a town perched on a mountain top offering one stunning vistas of the valley around but with the concrete structures coming up in this town, civilisation is leaving its ugly mark here. I only hope the government and the people make an effort to maintain the sanctity of this place. Beer cans and plastic strewn around in every corner was quite an eyesore.

The town has a huge helipad and numerous official buildings and is divided into two small parts, new and old. One often finds Mishmi women walking around in their oh so stunning attires, all hand woven beauties with peculiar massive cylindrical silverish earrings, locally called Inksuf in Miju Mishmi language, a kind of tribal jewelry never seen before.

The picture does not do justice. could not capture the magnificence of this waterfall for it cascaded through many bends

Jaw dropping waterfalls that cannot be geo tagged, fragrance of pines, orange trees dotting the roadsides and white shimmering sands of turquoise Lohit and rickety bridges hanging over them reminded me of the postcards I once drew as a little girl l. I used to wonder then if places like these existed in the real world. We stopped at one such bridge that was dwindling as the winds wailed. Dasher and Haachu took calculative steps, unsure of its stability while I sat there staring at a tiny hamlet on a hilltop with just three huts. I wondered for how long it remained disconnected, living happily in its cocoon in this huge big world, unaware of what existed beyond this river, just when my thoughts were obstructed by the sound of a motorcycle.

My never ending love for bridges…especially the rustic rickety ones

A young boy loaded with ration on his bike was going to cross on this bridge to drop off stuff at the other end. He took five rounds, the bridge swinging his bike as though he were trying one of those adrenaline pumping rides in an amusement park.

But the bridge never gave up.

I was instantly reminded of this movie based on Arunachal that I watched on Netflix during lockdown. It’s called Crossing Bridges, a beautiful film based on Shergaon ( western part of Arunachal) and first ever movie to be made in Sherdukpen language 💚 Must watch if you haven’t yet.

PS: I have a thing for bridges, bridges of any kind. For they connect two different worlds, fading away the gaps so beautifully.

DONG FINALLY!

Since Walong has quite a few places to be covered, I shall write about it in my next post. We started the hike from Tilam, a small hamlet situated about 5 kms ahead of Walong on the east bank of the river. One can see two plateaus with Pine meadows beckoning you from the other side of the river. That is where the sun rays hit our country first. Even though the hike was an easy short ascent though breathtakingly beautiful, just the whole idea of climbing up a hill top to see that fiery ball of fire waking up the country before anyone and everyone from a deep slumber gave us an all new high.

After crossing the bridge, Dasher and Haachu sure had an adrenaline rush walking over it

Back in the day the Dong village thrived on those meadows on the top but due to scarcity of water, villagers moved down closer to the confluence of Lohit and Sati rivers. There are just about five to six Mayor households at the base, where we also got our guide from. A trail leading to the iron suspension bridge starts from the PWD guest house ( on the right side) We crossed the bridge swinging noisily while Haachu, our younger Dog scrambled along as though doing a commando crawl 😛 After crossing the bridge, a short ascent leads you to a left turn with an abandoned hut around. You would soon reach Dong village, wooden huts stand guarded by oh so rustic stoned wall boundaries while prayer flags flutter signifying a Mayor household.

At this point you hit the main road ( under construction) from where a prominent trail winds up into the forest. The base where the village stands is called Lower Dong. two hours of gradual climb through fragrant pine forests, sprawling wild grass, vast open meadows with occasional breaks for collecting mountain souvenirs like pine cones and driftwood, we landed at Higher Dong Plateau. Dasher and Haachu’s both tails and tongues wagged out of sheer joy and exertion. They ran around like wild kids, the whole meadow was their playground.

Before the sun goes down…On reaching Upper Dong

It was 3:30 pm and we were just an hour away from sunset. After taking a short breather, we started hunting for wood. The meadow on top is vast and one can see spots where people might have camped or lit fire. Our furry tails sniffed around the entire country side while we toiled hard collecting pine wood to light fire. We fixed our tents in no time and hoped the gusty winds would stop sooner for temperature dropped in no time. That night two humans with two over excited dogs, slept all alone on that hill top under the sky that lit as bright as a chandelier.

Making fire before the sky turns all dark

Though the leaves rustling kept Haachu up the entire night and his occasional growling in the middle of the night while staring at the tent flap didn’t make me feel like we were the only ones! I feared if there were wild bears around but the moonlight and the owl rather comforted me more than my three male family members who snored away to glory. I didn’t sleep that night for the excitement to witness India’s first sunrise in a couple of hours was unexplainable. Dong was the first thing i wanted to see when I got here in the northeast and it was finally happening.

4:00 pm and its dark already! Why don’t we follow different time zones India

Goodnight world…so what if its just 7 pm

My alarm and Haachu’s paw nudging me on my face pulled me out of my sleeping bag at 5 AM. and then the waiting game began. So initially it took us a while to figure out where exactly was the sunrise point. While faint sunlight greeted us in the morning, the first orangey rays reflected on the glistening snow capped mountains around 5:30 am. Everything around lay still except the river down below in the valley along with the chirping birds and rising sun. The first sunlight of India engulfed us on this misty hill top, the sun finally rising up behind the mountains on the right bank of the river facing the meadows.

That is where the first ray of Sunlight falls in India

It truly was surreal. The mist on my tent melted away with the Sun’s warmth, while Dasher and Haachu too stood still for a while, as though in awe of that orange ball, soaking up its warmth. And just like that, while India was still in its deep slumber, fast asleep engulfed with darkness, we stood here at the edge of the country where light first breaks in our country ,in this lesser known humble village called Dong.

ROUTE TO DONG VALLEY /HOW TO REACH DONG VALLEY

Ideally your first stop should be at Tezu/ Wakro, both small towns in East Arunachal. Here is the route that we followed

Tinsukia- Namsai- Wakro- Parshuram Kund- Tohangam-Hawa Camp- Salangam- Tidding- Hayuliang- Chagwanti- Hawai- Walong- Tilam-Dong

While we covered all these places, we stayed only at Wakro and Hayuliang enroute.

PS: The nearest or last petrol pump before Walong is in Khupa near Hayuliang. So make sure you fuel up your tank here inase you’ve hired a vehicle.

ACCOMODATION

Tilam, a small village situated 5 kms ahead of Walong has a good PWD guest house and the trail to Dong starts right next to the guest house on the right hand side. Another trail on its left side goes down to the hot water springs of Tilam. There are quite a few rooms available and can be booked on the spot as well.

There’s only one home stay available in Namti, a village about 4 kms ahead of Tilam towards Kibithu axis.

GUIDE FOR THE TREK

The local tourist administration has made it compulsory to take a guide along. One can easily find a guide from Dong Village. They charge Rs 3000 for up to 6 people and the charges increase according to the number of people. There are two ways one can do this hike.

Hike up early late at night around 2:30 am so that you’re on top by 4:30 to catch the sunrise and then head back thereafter.
Hike up in the afternoon and camp there at night and watch the sunrise the following day. We opted for this idea but please note that we carried our personal hiking and camping gear. I doubt tents and trekking gear would be available as Walong is remote and not as developed as Tawang or other towns in Arunachal.

IDEAL TIME TO VISIT

North east is known to have eight months of nasty monsoons and therefore remains disconnected untill November. November to April is a good time to visit Walong.

Please ensure you do not litter the place. There are very few places in our country that are left unadulterated. Lets try keeping their sanctity intact.

PHONE CONNECTIVITY

The last place where you find network is Hayuliang thereafter if you are lucky BSNL would probably work but it is hopelessly spotty and erratic. We remained happily disconnected from the world for three days 🙂

Wakro: The Hidden Jewel of Arunachal Pradesh

‘Akele Aurat Log, koi mard nahi hai aapke saath..Itna dur jaayega, safe nahi hai!’

I couldn’t help but smile listening to that comment, while sipping on my Laal Chai at a dhaaba 10 Kms short of Assam Arunachal border in a town called Jagun. Few years back I would have indulged in some reasoning with the overly concerned stranger who just got to know about my travel plans but now I choose to simply smile and let it go and take it as one of the amusing snippets from my travel tales.

Sooo pumped! We were road tripping to the mountains after all

WAS THERE A PLAN?

This tiny little town of Chokam has my heart

After months of waiting, thanks to this cursed year, I along with my friend Neha decided to do an impromptu road trip to a nearby town called Namsai. We hadn’t booked any place to stay, we had no agenda except for trying to find a Tai Khampti family( one of the indigenous tribes of Arunachal who have been said to migrate from Burma) and find Manna village where apparently one of the famous You Tube Vlogger had stayed with a Khampti family. Manna was no where on the google maps but we knew we could find it. That was the only plan and did it work for us? A part of it, yes but we ended up getting a little more than we’d expected. That’s the beauty of unplanned trips, they always unveil the most beautiful surprises. One such surprise on this trip turned out to be Wakro.

FIRST PLEASANT SURPRISE ON THE TRIP …ALREADY!

*When in Assam do what the Assamese do…You’ve gota try Laal Cha*

These folks were so full of love and warmth. We sat down chit chatting for half an hour and stopped by their place on our way back as well

We bade goodbye to the old Uncle and Auntie at the dhaaba who’s warm hospitality warmed our hearts like never before. The Assamese Laal Chai was a much needed energizer to start the trip. While driving towards the Assam Arunachal border check post, we couldn’t help but notice this village with an array of houses where women sat outside in their courtyards and spun magic with their yarn wheels, making the much renowned Mekhla Chaadar from the vibrant sutas. We couldn’t not stop here and thus began our trip with its first surprise in store for us. A group of young Mishing tribe women ( another prominent tribe found in parts of Assam and Arunachal) exchanged hesitant ‘Hellos’ with us initially and with time it metamorphosed to laughter filled conversations. Some of them were as young as 16 who apart from going to school, worked in the tea gardens to collect leaves, did the household chores and wove Mekhlas to sustain the family. The bright vibrant threads spanned across the pathway outside, stretched from one end to the other while two women softly combed them, untangling the knots. I asked the girl sitting by the wooden frame if they’d show us their collection and teach us how to drape it. They readily agreed and invited us inside. We learnt while the tribes were starkly different in their traditions and culture yet most of them wore similar skirts which had different names in different regions and tribes. Also the major difference lies in the embroidery pattern. For instance the picture down below has a typical Mising tribe embroidery pattern and color.

Mahatma Gandhi once said ‘ Assamese women are born weavers, they can weave fairy tales in their cloth’

Ended up trying this orange Mekhla woven by these incredible women.

The cloth is made from scratch and then embroidered with hands. ‘Ek piece ko banaane mein 7 to 10 days lagta hai’ the girl exclaimed. I asked her if she was ready to take a paid order from me but she was hesitant to say no. Most of them made these for their personal use and stowed it for special occasions while the ones that involved lesser work and cheaper quality were sold in the market. Perhaps their work and life deserves another long detailed post but I am so glad we chanced upon this serendipity, of randomly coming across these strangers and learning so much about their local culture and handloom in just about an hour of this unexpected rendezvous. The trip surely began on a happy surprise note.

*So glad we stopped by at their place. One last picture with the munchkin*

COUNTRY ROADS IN ARUNACHAL SHALL NEVER DISAPPOINT THE DRIVER IN YOU

So I uprooted myself from my home ground and left

took my dreams and I took to the road

when the flower grows wild, it can always survive

wildflowers don’t care where they grow’

*One of the many stunning hamlets enroute*

Dolly Parton sang these beautiful lyrics on my car music system, while we made our way into Arunachal. The golden farms, sullen rivers, foothills of the eastern Himalayas, tiny little quaint hamlets dotting the road sides, stilt houses made of bamboo, men riding their cycles through the narrow by lanes wearing Jaapis ( the traditional bamboo hat) marked our arrival at the land of the dawn lit mountains. We were driving in the easternmost corner of Assam, where Sun rises the earliest in India.

*Two of us posing with the Jappis, the traditional bamboo hat woen by the farmers and tea garden workers*

Entering Namsai, one feels like you’ve stepped into the mystical land of Pagodas, pretty much like in Myanmar and Thailand. while we had already visited the much famous, Golden Pagoda in the town on our last trip, the idea was to go explore the lesser known ones. a little detour from the main road, lead to this beautiful Buddhist Pagoda called Kumgmou Pagoda.

RENDEZVOUS WITH THE YOUNG MONK AT NAMSAI

One of the lesser known Pagodas in Namsai

While walking towards the temple. we came across a Khampti lady who smiled back at us. We asked her about Manna village ( she was the fourth person we asked) and she luckily knew about it. She was kind enough to even guide us around the pagoda and call a young monk who could tell us a little about this place.

*With the Tai Khamtis of Arunachal…the green cloth over that skirt signifies married women*

The monk was a young boy who practiced Theravada Buddhism here in this pagoda with five other monks. I have travelled to many Buddhist towns and villages in Bhutan, Arunachal, Himachal and Sikkim but this was the first time that I learnt about the other kind of Buddhism and witnessed Pagoda temples instead of Gompas or Monasteries. The monk told us how similar their culture was to that of Myanmar and that the script they followed was the same as Burmese. Their faith differed from that of Mahayana Buddhism that’s followed in Western Arunachal. So much diversity across the same state and religion.

*One with the Monk who so patiently showed us around and explained us thin*gs

A fun or rather serious fact that he enlightened us with. While showing us the Khamti holy scripts, he mentioned how one of the monks had long ago written and predicted an India China war in their scriptures. Well, one could almost believe that in 2020. Almost!

The monk then excitedly spoke of the up coming Tai new year festival called Poi Pee Mau which holds paramount importance in uniting all the Khamtis together. The festival celebrates the Khamti culture, tradition. games, sports, dance , music and cuisine. Though this year, it’ll be celebrated at a small scale. He then threw some light on the local nomenclature of the rituals and traditions they followed here at the pagoda and while leaving gifted us some plants from the garden after he got to know that me and my friend were crazy plant hoarders.

AND THEN WE FOUND MANNA!

*had watched a vlog on this village and we managed to find it. thanks to the lady in the picture above*

The lady gave us directions as detailed and flawless as google maps would and after driving about 7 kms, leaving the manicured highways, we hit the village unpaved roads. A small board saying ‘ Fair price shop Manna’ outside a grocery store confirmed that we were at the right place but people here gave us puzzled reactions on being asked about any homestay or travelers shed in the village. They were not so warm or rather taken aback to have visitors here. Just when we decided to walk back towards our car, I spotted a lady coming out of a house. I smiled at her and she reciprocated. Like a creep I lynched on to this opportunity to ask her if there were a place close by. She too hadn’t heard of any place like that but what she said took us by surprise. ‘ Aap mere ghar chalo, paani and chai peeyo. Mai aapka rehne ka intezzam karvane ka koshish karega apne family mein.’ She offered us to stay with her old parents as her house had a grand function going on with a big group of women from the village, helping them cook and clean up for the function. On asking her how much would they charge us for a one day stay, she scoffed and replied ‘ paisa nahi lega hum log. aap hamaara guest hai, do teen din araam se rehega’. and then she told us to follow her to her place.

*with the kindest family i met while traveling. we are in touch now*

It’s always like that you know. the moment you think people around aren’t that welcoming and the trip might not go the way you want it to, there’ll be a stranger with the warmest heart to reaffirm your faith in the goodness of others. And that’s how all my trips have been. Meeting one random stranger whos turned into a lifelong friend.

*a traditional Tai Khamti house made of bamboo and stilts*

Eventually we did meet the entire family, and a whole lot of villagers at their place out of which i befriended two young girls, pursuing medical. They showed us what they were cooking and told us a little about the family function. It felt a little odd to be invading their privacy and thus we decided to visit them some other time. The girls were kind enough to insist on noting down their numbers so that the next time we could inform them in advance and they could arrange a stay for us. PS : we just spoke over the phone today and she has invited me over next month when she’ll be back in her village. She works as a Covid 19 duty officer in Namsai town.

SWEETEST SERENDIPITY…OUT OF NO WHERE WAKRO HAPPENED TO US

*On our way to Wakro…this place never existed in our knowing…*

*The Drive from Wakro to Parshuram Kund is rejuvenating*

After meeting the Mising tribe family in Assam, a monk at a pagoda in Namsai and the Khamti family in Manna village, we realized that we had already seen so much without even planning any of it. It was 12:30 pm by now and we were hungry and tired. Also we were yet to find a place for tonight. So we decided to drive up to the Golden Pagoda for I remembered the eco resort that side and few dhaabas along the road side. We stopped at this eatery for brunch and got talking with the owner. No one can give you better info than the people who belong to that place. We found a homestay that charged too much and was more of an urbanized modern Khamti set up. While looking for budget resorts, Wakro Eco Resort showed up on google. The pictures looked great and the owner said ‘ very few people go towards Wakro’ That’s it! His statement did the trick. We called up the resort owner and booked a room for the evening. We were going to drive for an hour and a half on one of the most beautiful countryside roads, hugged by tea gardens, hidden hamlets and deep dark reserve forests. And above all we were going to the mountains that remained off the tourist radar.

*Kamlang Tiger Reserve…this was such a happy surprise*

It was yet another sweet surprise when the milestones flashed the name Kamlang. Little did we know that Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary was situated in Wakro itself and was just a kilometer away from the resort. Wakro is home to Mishmi, Digaru and Mizo tribes who consider themselves as the descendants of King Rukmo of Mahabharat. We were greeted with crisp nippy mountain air and vibrant orange trees adorning the country side. The Kamlang river broke the monotonous silence in the valley and shimmered breathtakingly in shades of turquoise green, its water the cleanest I’ve seen in the longest time.

*Roads here hugged by the dense cover of Kamlang R*eserve Forest

*While giving a lift to the Mishmis of Wakro…loved their vibrant hand woven attire and bags*

While we were ‘wow..ing’ away to glory, an old man and a young girl along with him, waved at us, signaling us to stop. Looks like we were going to have good Mishmi company for a few miles as they got into our car, hitchhiking with us. The old mans wrinkled smile exuded warmth as he spoke to us about the place. I asked him if he ever spotted tigers living in the Kamlang region. He said ‘ Kai baar dekha hai’ I asked him if the sanctuary was open now for outsiders when he said ‘ Aap Tiger maarega toh forest log jail mein daal dega’ Wonder why did I give him such criminal vibes 😀 Clearly we had a language barrier and I explained him how I wasn’t keen on killing one but yes I did intend to get into the forest for I wished to hike up to the lake that had been on my wish list since forever, The Glao or Glow Lake.

In Mishmi language, Glao means water and the lake is said to be the source of the Wakro river which eventually joins The Brahmaputra. The hike up to Glao Lake is said to be a bit demanding but worth all the sweat and pain. Unfortunately, the sanctuary wasn’t opened yet to the outsiders due to corona.

*Could sit here whole day long and never get tired*

We finally reached the resort at 3 pm and we couldn’t be happier with our decision of coming all the way up here without any info on the place or any plans. A bamboo cottage stood on stilts and our outside porch faced the mysterious Mishmi Hills of Wakro. The cherry on the cake was the tiny little tea factory that stood right next to our cottage, from where our freshly pounded tea leaves came for the evening cuppa.

*The Tea Factory right outside our room*

*Green tea made from freshly pounded tea leaves*

What else does one need after a tiring though exhilarating drive. We had the fresh organic cuppa in our hands, surreal mountains right in front, slight November winter nip in the air and Gregory Alan humming along with the birds while not a soul around. Wakro is still a hidden gem and rarely does it get visitors.

*Early sunsets in this part of the country…at 4 PM*

Dusk sets in the earliest in this part of the country. After all we are in the east of east. The sun sank into the oblivion, the sky turning into a fiery orange. Wakro is a haven for souls looking for peace and tranquility. You shouldn’t come here to do things. You come here to just be. Hiking into random villages, meeting the Mishmis, sitting by the pristine Kamlang river and watching a gazillion stars turning the sky into a shimmering chandelier. We witnessed two shooting stars and and a satellite that night, sitting at the outside porch, snuggled in our warm fuzzy blankets.

They say you should ask for a wish when you see the shooting star falling from the sky. My heart was full then, I simply said ‘ Thank You Wakro’.

THINGS TO DO IN WAKRO

*Early morning short drive and then later hike to Parshuram Kund*

Ideally dont do anything, just read or go picnicing by the riverside or stroll around the villages but yes the small town does have a lot to offer to people who need itineraries.

Kamlang Wildlife Sanctuary lies in between the Lang River in north and Namdapha National Park in south. It houses all the four big cats that is Tiger, Leopard, Clouded Leopard and Snow Leopard. One can take the forest walk after getting permit from the forest officials.

Glao or Glow Lake is the most significant water body inside the sanctuary. The hike up to the lake makes a good one day hike for the adventure enthusiasts through dense jungle trails and camping the night at the lake side. The Mishmi hills in the backdrop with the vast cirumference of the lake makes a stunning landscape for nature lovers.

Stroll around in the Mishmi villages like Gundri and Kanjan to know more about the Mishmi culture and lifestyle. Mishmis are animistic by religion and worship the elemnts of nature. They have unique traditions and culture that will leve the traveler in you intrigued.

Parshuram Kund or Brahma kund is the reverred religious site on the banks of crystal clear stunning Lohit river. Just a 20 mins breathtaking drive to this spot, then one needs to hike down 150 steps to the Kund that shall also offer you mesmerising views of Lohit.

Tezu and Namsai are adjacent towns with Pagodas and scenic landscapes to offer. One can complete the entire Namsai Wakro Tezu circuit.

STAY INFO

We stayed at Wakro Eco Resort, nestled in the lap of Mishmi hills, just a mile away from Kamlang Tiger Reserve. It was more than comfortable with good food, stunning views and great hospitality.

TRAVEL INFO

One needs an Inner Line Permit that can be obtained online. PS: Corona Negative medical report is mandatory along with an ILP.

The nearest railway station is in Tinsukia and airport at Dibrugarh. Wakro is three to four hours of drive from Tinsukia where one can easily get shared cabs and buses.

The Golden Pagoda Namsai: Little Burma In India

It’s been six months since the pandemic spun our lives around in ways we’d never imagined. Traveling isn’t easy anymore. Travel has changed and how! I recently made a trip to one of the hidden gems of Arunachal since it’s a short drive from my place. One’s got to be responsible, even the most impulsive explorers have got to have certain constraints now but all’s not lost. Yes one cannot connect with the locals the usual way, one can’t plan on doing stay overs but take that cycle/ car/ bike out of your garage, feel the monsoon breeze kiss your face even though you are shielded under that devilish yet life saving mask and explore the place around you. At times the most beautiful of surprises are hiding by your side.

Though i am more of a story teller and love to write about my experiences with the locals, their crafts, culture, food etc, this post is more of an informative one. Thanks to the current pandemic situation! Yet, I was quite blown away by Namsai’s beauty and the Golden Pagoda architecture and the fact that how different this part of Arunachal is from Western side (Tawang, Bomdila, Zemithang etc) where i travelled in February this year. our country hides a million secrets in every nook and corner and every time i discover something new, i feel it deserves to be known by all 🙂

116697155_311448006670622_6580774270204400500_n — The route from Jagun to Namsai adorned with pristine tea gardens. My cycle taking a break along with me

One such stunning secret of North East India that unveiled this week to me was the town of Namsai in Eastern Arunachal. Read On! Promise you wont be disappointed.

A little about Namsai

116265030_334022717607474_8745555928178408609_n — The pond with the Buddha meditating in the temple premises

Namsai is one of the nascent districts of East Arunachal which came into being very recently in 2015.it is known as the land of enchanting Pagodas and is renowned to be the home of ‘ The Tai Khamti’ tribes of Arunachal. Lush green paddy fields with the Himalayan foothills dot its surreal landscape with bamboo stilt huts adorning the road sides. The drive from Dibrugarh which happens to be the nearest city with an airport is just two and a half hours long and is extremely rewarding in terms of views. Reserve forests, hustling rivers, foothills of Arunachal and farms spanning to eternity enchant every traveller taking this road less taken. One often finds the Tai Khamptis working in fields in their hand woven bamboo hats.

photo-1585603174448-9533929d2cb5 — The lush green paddy fields and the foothills of the eastern Himalayas in the backdrop

116725930_301604627851364_3932054469092623206_n — Traditional Assamese Huts enroute

Who are Tai Khamptis?

115905194_3141781779254019_413865858028546978_n — The unique Cane Buddha in the prayer hall…perhaps the only

The Tai Khamptis are one of the major tribes of Arunachal who migrated from Borkhamti in Burma in the 18th century. Khampti means ‘a land full of gold.’ They are one of the most progressive tribes of Arunachal and are pretty advanced in the field of art and literature. Out of the 27 different tribes of Arunachal, Tai Khamptis are the only ones to have their own script, known as Lik-Tai. Most of them follow Theravada Buddhism unlike other parts of West Arunachal like Tawang etc where Mahayana Buddhism is practised.

116860888_325379058603508_7569464621560704139_n — The huge brass bell at the enterance

The Golden Pagoda Namsai

116434209_343141600010603_3175137527598075787_n — The Golden Pagoda N

Built on the foothills of the eastern Himalayas of Patkai range of Arunachal, the Golden Pagoda is built in Burmese architecture and is locally known as Kongmu Kham in Tai Khampti dialect. This golden shimmering beauty came into being in 2010. The huge Lord Buddha statue inside the temple made of pure bronze was donated by the chief monk of Wat Aranjikavas temple in Thailand.

The Celestial Lion

Gateway to Heaven

The shrine has four entrances from all directions but the main entrance faces North. Each of the entrances are guarded by a pair of mythical lions. There is also a pond near the entrance along with the Ashoka pillar on the eastern side. We happened to meet a young monk who told us that currently there are 30 monks residing here.

116266833_2710753162506424_7764212105715004009_n — The Pure Bronze Buddha along with a beautiful green stone one

116697587_1160035884369928_5938512881065619576_n — The Celestial Lion

116629827_3221971384557750_8899704685064824203_n — The dragon has a hollow boat tub where in the Buddha images are given a ceremonial bath on Sangken festival

Sangken, the water festival that happens every year in April is celebrated here to bid goodbye to the old year. It’s a three day celebration where on the first day the images of Lord Buddha are taken out of the shrine and given a ceremonial bath inside this dragon boat called the Kyongfra with the beating of drums and cymbals.

116137331_3148451548574968_156192532974053844_n — Reflecting the Divinity

117070577_1212330139120632_2074037038008094873_n — Thunder Dragon

OTHER TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN AND AROUND NAMSAI

Empong Monastery: Revered as a holy place by the locals, the Buddha statue installed in the monastery is said to have special powers. It is located in the sleepy hamlet of Empong that falls in the Chongkham division. It is believed that the childless couples come here to the monastery to get their wishes fulfilled.
Parshuram Kund : Situated in the Lohit district, Parshuram Kund is an hour and a half drive away from Golden Pagoda. The gushing Brahmaputra and the hills around makes it a perfect place to unwind with a book and a picnic basket. Parshuram is a remote pilgrimage site along the Lohit river It often attracts people from Nepal and north eastern states of India on the occasion of Makar Sakranti.
Buddha Vihara, Chongkham : Chongkham is a beautiful place, a quaint little town on the national highway 52. Buddha Vihara is an abode of peace and tranquility and a perfect place for people who love to meditate. The Tai Khampti Singpho museum located in this town is an ideal tourist destination for travellers who wish to learn more about the Singpho and Tai Khampti culture and traditions.
Namsai Monastery : Situated in the heart of Namsai town, this was the oldest Pagoda to come up in Namsai. It is surrounded with beautiful temples and Burmese architecture.
Pangsau Pass : At an altitude of 3727 ft, Pangsau Pass lies on the crest of Patkai Hills, a gateway to Myanmar. It is named after the nearest Burmese village. Details on this place shall be covered on the next post. The drive from Namsai is just two and a half hours long and is simply breathtaking. Pangsau should not be missed.

INNER LINE PERMIT

20200215_073755-01 — The Eastern Himalayas

Inner line permit is required by all domestic as well as international tourists to enter the state of Arunachal. One can apply online at http://www.arunachalilp.com. Or collect it on arrival. Tourist ILP facilitation centers have been opened at the following places

Guwahati LGBI Airport

Naharlagun Railway Station

Gumto Railway Station

Guwahati Asom Paryatan Bhawan

Foreign Tourists visiting Arunachal will have to pay 50 USD per head as Royalty to the Govt of Arunachal Pradesh and applications for PAP are to be applied through local tour operators only.

ACCOMODATIONS

Homestays/ guest houses are readily available in Namsai. One can either book after arrival or pre book online. One such resort that i came across was Golden Pagoda Namsai Resort which is located very close to the temple.

CONNECTIVITY

Nearest Airport lies in Dibrugarh City while the nearest railway station is in Tinsukia.

Singsor Ani Gompa: My Home For A Day In The Eastern Himalayas

It’s 9:00 am. I sit on my desk, writing about a trek that I did 5 months back in Himachal when suddenly my Whatsapp buzzes with a video call. Irritated at the loud ringtone obstructing my thoughts, I stare at My phone screen flashing ‘Yeshi calling’! Surprisingly, I find myself grinning ear to ear.

Where faith and mountains meet! — where faith and mountains meet

A minute or two of usual greetings later, Yeshi speaks in a rather worried tone ‘Ma’am, Ani bol raha hai, aap Delhi mat jaana. CoronaVirus fael raha hai. Yahin rehna aap. Travel mat karna!’ I am still smiling while typing this. Friendships that my mountain sojourns give me are priceless. And the ones made in this secluded Gompa on the Eastern Himalayas of Arunachal, with these simple souls in maroon robes are even more special.

Singsor Ani Gompa, Tawang, Khirmu, Nunnery, Offbeat Places In Tawang — Singsor Ani Gompa…saw all shades of sky in my two days of stay and visit there.

REWIND….February seemed to work its magic. Spring was around the corner. While walking in those narrow bylanes of Khirmu ( a small town 25kms short of Tawang), I couldn’t help but stare at this quaint little Gompa perched on a hill top. While buying Parle G for some dogs sitting on the roadside, I asked the shopkeeper what that Gompa was called. He uttered a name that I couldn’t get a hang of but I caught the word ‘ANI’. When I repeated after him ‘Ani Gompa?’ to make sure if i said it right, the man next to him said, ‘Yes.. Ani matlab Ladies Monk.’ Did I just hear that right? A buddhist Nunnery on a mountaintop in the eastern Himalayas. That was my moment of Deja Vu. All those hikes and bike rides to Kila Gompa in Bhutan flashed back. I knew what I was going to do today. I picked up some extra parle Gs, because I was going to hike up to the Gompa right away. Little did I know then that the hike would not just lead me to the Gompa but also turn out to be a stay over with these enlightened souls who choose the road less taken.

Singsor Gompa, Tawang, Ani Gompa, Eastern Himalayas — First look when I landed on top…

It was a straight road up from Khirmu towards Geshila. I hitch hiked up to Lhou Gompa and decided to walk from here. Though the main road that laid unpaved and rarely taken by visitors except the villagers who stayed on top was as quiet as any hidden path, the sign of a narrow trail going up through the forest and meadows screamed and called me out. And so the tale of the hidden trail to Singsor Gompa began. I deliberately walked on the fallen leaves, hearing them crunch. The winds and cow bells jammed together. The Rhododendrons buds signaled the onset of Spring.

Spring, Flowers, Rhododendrons, buds — Rhododendron Buds on the hiking trail

The mighty Himalayas looked elusive, hiding in the sheets of clouds and prayer flags fluttered by. I was alone yet surrounded by these comforting elements of nature. The sun charred me in no time and I regretted not carrying my sipper. On reaching this meadow patch, I turned around to find a small white Chorten, a memorial made by one of the local families for the deceased. I decided to go check it out and guess what I found there. A jug of water. How does nature hear every conversation of mine with myself? I blessed the soul who kept it for tired and weary hikers/ passerby like me.

chorten,hiking trails, eastern himalayas, buddhism — Can you see the jug of water kept on the left..Chorten in the middle of the forest

Gemreteng Village

As I climbed further ahead, a trail diverged into multiple trails.making a puzzle of sorts. I wondered what if I got lost in the jungle, with no network on my phone. I would have been happily stranded though. Half an hour later, I found myself at a dead end with a stone boundary wall of a lone house on the hill top. Trying not to panic, I decided to catch another trail going on the right, when I saw the Gompa a little far away, beckoning me. While a tiny cluster of houses, about 5 or 6 stood below on a downhill, that village looked surreal. A monastery on top watching over it, while a few scanty mud and stone walled houses, interspersed with farms stood in harmony around each other, far farrrr away from the maddening world.

I decided to visit this insanely quiet village called Gemreteng. A flight of cemented steps took me down to a makeshift gate that opened to these 6 Monpa households. A lady, donning a red hat sat outside the first house, who gave me a rather stern glare. I hesitatingly quipped ‘Hi! Paani milega?’ That’s like my go to line when in doubt. She asked this little kid, sitting next to her to go fetch a glass of water for me. Finding the awkward silence a little uncomfortable, I asked her another question ‘ aapke gaon mein ek gompa hai na?’ She sternly replied ‘ yahaan koi gompa nahi hai!’. Okay this isn’t going too well. I didn’t see myself sitting with her like most of my rendezvous with villagers. But I loved this hamlet way too much to let it go. So I tried once again, with a huge smile and a little enthusiasm in my voice ‘ aapka topi bahut accha hai’ . Did I finally see her smiling? Though it was for a nano second, she did smile. I finally sat down next to her, almost throwing myself at her ‘what a creep’ she must have thought ! I learnt the local nomenclature of the rice ( thip) and wheat (nhai) grains ( that she sieved on the dallah made of bamboo. Looking at her house in awe, I told her how pretty it was. Stoned walls painted white with tiny green windows in the middle. She remarked ‘Kya sundar hai isme? Ye hum gareeb logo ka ghar hai, purana tuta hua’. I learnt she had been to Bangalore and that she loved the city life there.

Monpas, Monpas of Tawang, Monpa architecture, Gemreteng — A traditional Monpa house

Here we were, two women from different corners of India, wishing we lived each other’s life. She wasn’t as stuck up as I thought her to be initially. Lessons learnt while travelling…not to judge a book by its cover. In Fact we laughed a lot, clicking selfies. She even showed me the biggest radish and turnips I’ve ever seen in her farms. Small lil prayer flags were placed on toothpicks in her farms, probably to protect the crops from any harm.. She sold the veggies in Khirmu town and to the army troops. She told me about this Gompa 300 mtrs away from her village where a lone monk meditated. I left with the little kid sent by her to go meet this monk, before I finally headed to the Singsor Gompa.

Monpa Tribes, Tribes of Arunachal, Monpa Villages — The lady who gave me company in the village. She’s wearing the red Monpa Hat

92110960_205357744077643_1698382020486365184_n — The lone monk at Aryadung Gompa

92243897_2876228352413322_9089744364346802176_n — My lil co hiker who guided me to Aryadung Gompa

SINGSOR ANI GOMPA

Singsor Gompa, also known as Jangchub Choeling Nunnery Gompa was founded way back in 1960 by His Eminence, the 12th Tsona Lama Thupten Jampel Wangchuk with a vision to flourish Buddhism among the nuns of the Mon Region. What started with a simple one building extended later with time. There are about 40 to 50 nuns residing here, Anis as young as 7 with mentors as old as 60 plus.

Singsor Gompa, Monasteries in Tawang, Ani Gompa — Singsor Ani Gompa

Leaving Gemreteng and Aryadung Gompa far behind, I now stood at the entrance of Singsor. The winds wailed here the loudest, the kinds I heard while staying at the Phajoding Monastery in Bhutan. Two huge prayer flags danced to the tunes of the boisterous wind while bells in the monastery chimed breaking the stillness in air. Though excited to get inside and meet the nuns, a part of me wanted to keep standing here, staring into the oblivion, across the snow clad mountains, deep valleys, and the haze that engulfed it. Nothing! Just nothing comes close to the tranquility felt at places like these.

prayer flags, arunachal, gompas of tawang, ani gompa — When i finally reached the gompa..Welcomed by the fluttering prayer flags

Buddhism, monks, buddhist nuns — Ani Thupten, leading me to her room.

I looked around to see a nun standing there, staring at me, probably out of curiosity. They aren’t used to seeing visitors here. I hesitatingly waved at her and smiled. That was when I first met Ani Thupten who later turned out to be my host at the nunnery and eventually the oldest friend I currently have in my life.‘Kahaan se aaya?’ She asked. I told her about how I got to know about their Nunnery this morning at Khirmu and how impromptu the hike was. She animatedly spoke ‘ Khirmuuu se! Itna dur chalke aaya. Aao ..andar aao. Chai peeyega?’ She walked ahead, her hands covered in soiled gloves,holding a sickle. She was farming in her kitchen garden and I probably disturbed her routine but her inexpiable warmth never let me feel like an intruder.

life of buddhist nuns, gompas of Tawang — Ani Thupten, melting Dalda for butter lamps

Her cabin was a humble abode with just the basic essentials. A huge bukhari took the center space with one or two floor cushions around it. Kitchen formed a part of the same room. I can never get over the enthusiasm and warmth with which she moved around, laying the rug for me, stacking cushions on top of each other so that I felt comfortable. She just wont let me sit on the floor. While Ani made tea and popcorn for me, my eyes ran around her cabin, curious to find, what defined life here. The bare walls had one or two shelves with rations etc, a tiny room where she slept and meditated while there was another room in the cabin where a young nun aged 16 lived, who was Ani’s niece and was away right now, to see her family in town.

ani gompa, tawang — Ani Thupten’s room..space where we sat around the bukhari, having endless conversations

92236028_214085739909693_8201787969279885312_n — Such grace…such warmth!

Ani got the puffed rice that she called Nupoh and butter tea, and once again expressed her amusement ‘ Itna dur se akele chalke aaya, koi aadmi log utha lega toh?’ She sounded concerned about this stranger she just met

Ani Thupten joined the gompa when she was 30 and belonged to Khirmu. She was the only one amongst her five siblings who chose this path. Her wrinkled smile expressed her contentment in the solitude and spirituality that defined her life. And though their life may look simple and easy but not everyone can withstand this road less taken. In her 30 years of living here, there have been some who lived and left, never returning back. Her tone was not judgemental. One of the many reasons why I love Buddhism. I told her how I loved visiting gompas and had lived in one such nunnery in Bhutan. She was thrilled to see my pictures from there and stunned to know how I knew about Guru Padmasambhava and Alokeshwara Goddess. While skimming through my pictures, she asked me ‘ Aap rehega yahan?’ My day was going well, with the conversations in my head not just heard, but granting my wishes the moment I wished for them in my head.

91941590_270900610582850_6266767346866585600_n — This little Kitty sat around the entire time, giving us company

The aluminium kettle whistled as the bukhari over boiled the water,making some of it spill around. Ani opened the bukhari lid, threw some greyish looking powder inside and closed it. She handed the powder container to me asking me to sniff it. On seeing the smell overpowering my senses ani remarked ‘ ye dhoop hai. Ooncha mein milta hai ye. Yahaan pahaadon mein mahi milega. Sela ke bhi uppar jaana padega.’ This particular incense powder called Poeh. is made out of local herbs found in very high altitude, quite Tibetan in nature. Talking about tibetan influences, Ani asked me if i’d like to have momos for dinner. Shit. am i lucky or am I lucky! Momos is my second favorite after gol gappas 😛 She called Yeshi to give us company in the evening and a few other elderly nuns for tea. She kept telling me ‘ Yeshi young hai aapke jaisa. Usko Hindi or English bhi accha aata hai. Aap bore nahi hoga’. Little did she know, she was the best company I had had in a long time.

Singsor Ani Gompa, Nunneries in Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh — My warmest host…Ani Thupten

In the evening while taking a walk around the Nunnery, I came across other nuns, some of them washing their clothes in the fresh but icy cold spring water, some sat at the temple praying, while some as young as 8 sat along with their mentors, collecting cabbage and pumpkins from their farms. There were cabins for two or three nuns each, where mostly a senior or old nun stayed with younger ones. I looked at Tashi, the 8 year old, wondering if she knew why she was here, what that maroon robe meant to her, about the path she’s chosen or rather her folks have chosen for her. Standing with a steel bucket full of vegetables, she blushed as I waved at her.

91552643_2833724353349682_2049474628904026112_n — This little Nun stole my heart!

ani gompa, Tawang, hikes in tawang — Nuns doing their daily chores. Ani dragging a pile of bush to use as an obstruction barrier in her farm in order to prevent the crops from animals

life in Tawang — Next day early morning, i found this nun, sieving the rice and feeding grains to the birds around

While walking with Ani towards the Sangbum ( an incense house) to light the evening incense, I asked her about the aids and funds and how they all got by. Apart from the lil funding by the govt, the local villages of the respective nuns help them with rations etc and they are often called to address or conduct sacred religious gatherings on auspicious occasions. Plus they don’t need much for they never own much. I realized the difference between living and hoarding during my stay here at the Gompa. In my one and a half days of stay here, i didn’t look at myself in the mirror because there wasn’t one around. surprisingly i never missed it.

91549184_1053921751661310_3792063579537014784_n — Lighting the evening incense at the Gompa

The young nuns are free to study outside in English medium schools and join the nunnery in their summer vacations, practicing meditation and learning scripts from the old ones. Aren’t there chances of the Gompa running short of seats I asked. ‘Aajkal ke zamaane mein koi Ani ban na nahi chahta.’ And at times people do come and enroll themselves, but quite a few leave, not being able to cope up with the simple minimal life out here. As the sun drowned behind the Himalayas, Ani lit the incense inside the Sangbum giving rise to the white rings of smoke engulfing the Gompa. This was a daily ritual when the day commenced and ended.

lossar, tawang, singsor ani gompa, gompas of tawang — Anis gearing up for Lossar… I have a huge plate of Pohri Paapad in my hands

Later in the evening four other Anis came over along with Yeshi. I sat down listening to their folklore about the Holy Waterfall, a place with a religious significance called Chummi Kautsar where monks and nuns often visit in monsoons. One of the Ani’s got Pohri paapad and Khupsey, made out of rice and wheat snacks made for Losar preparations. They all laughed on my flawed use of local language. I picked up a few words from Ani in the afternoon. Ani Thupten had been feeding me all day long so when in the evening she served me a bowl of snacks, I uttered ‘ Mo Koh…Ke Paingeran’ . It means.’.No Thank You..I am too full.’ I felt like a foreigner trying to speak in Hindi, cracking up every one around.

Yeshi made the best yet healthiest momos I’ve ever had. Wheat flour and Lai patta, a local leaf added some extra flavor to the dimsums. I had almost 12 of them. I asked Yeshi what made a young girl like her join the nunnery at 18. She said it was her childhood dream. Her parents didn’t approve of it earlier but are now proud of her decisions. She’s currently studying in Tenga and comes here on vacation. After her 12th she’d be here for good. After hours of chatting, Yeshi said ‘Madam, kya aap mujhe or Pema ko whatsapp pe English padhaayega?..Hamara English kamzor hai’. I quipped, yahaan Eng teacher ka vacancy nahi hai kya? 😉 I chuckled as I said that but how ideal would have that been.

91535254_683269605757776_3310207900063891456_n — Dinner time…Yeshi, preparing momos

While lying down in my bed at night in Pema’s room, I couldn’t help but notice a pile of Tinkle comics on her bedside and a broken 2 inch piece of mirror and a rosary. She was all of this. A little child, naive in her adolescence yet enlightened unlike others at her age. The winds wailed. The bells chimed to its tunes yet again. And I, once again, wrote a thank you mail to an anonymous recipient that remains stowed in my drafts. For I’d look back at it one day and smile reading the stories from Singsor, that I was lucky to call home for a day and for times to come, every time I visit Tawang.

Monasteries, Tawang, Ani Gompa, Nunneries In Arunachal — Reluctant Goodbyes…the morning I left was all packed up..

TRAVEL AND STAY INFO

Singsor Gompa is situated in Khirmu. Khirmu falls enroute to Tawang while driving up from Jung.
Drive up from Khirmu on Geshila road towards Lhou Gompa. Though you can drive up all the way to the nunnery, the hike up from village Lungku Dung is short, easy and breath taking.
As a kind gesture, do think of carrying a little something, may be fruits or ration that can come in handy for nuns who live in this cut off region. i was charged nothing for my stay here. Bought some maggie and biscuit packets in bulk for the Anis residing here. just a token of gratitude.
Please do not litter here while hiking or travelling. If you happen to interact with nuns and wish to take their pictures or record them, make sure you take their permission.
for short stories check out

91256168_2575262726080344_7310073018267467776_n — View from Ani’s cabin

Tales From The Remotest Villages In The Great Himalayan National Park: Shagwar, Shakti and Marore

Raktisar Bound

Ever desired to follow the river up to its mouth or origin? There’s this song that I’d often hum while hiking, by Lord Huron, that goes like this

‘Oh there’s a river that winds on forever, I wanna see where it leads

Oh there’s a mountain that no man has mounted, I wanna stand on its peak”

I took the lyrics a bit too seriously for I was so tempted to see the glacier that gave birth to the ever brimming Sainj River…I wanted to see Raktisar/Raktisaur!

Few months ago, the husband gifted me a book called ‘The Great Himalayan National Park’ by Sanjeeva Pandey and Anthony Gaston. Though the struggle to read books has always been my vice, with time, I find myself hooked on it. I owe this trip to this book and to my ever so thoughtful husband who isn’t only super supportive but always gives me that extra push whenever I’m in doubt ( why won’t he …his hidden motive is to have his own free time when I am not around and play golf and his Playstation like there were no tomorrow! Hmph!)

Like I mentioned in my previous blog post, Mahi ( the homestay owner in Sainj) helped me contact Sharad, the founder of HMRA ( Himalayan Monk Riders Association) who planned to go on this hike with three other local men from Shangarh. Before I start narrating My Tales of Tintin Adventures, here’s a little about GHNP.

The Great Himalayan National Park

The Great Himalayan National Park is in the midst of the Western Himalayas. There are only trails to travel within the park. The remoteness of the area, low grazing pressure within forests, super low level of tourist activity and dependence on traditional lifestyles were the main reasons to establish the park in the given location. GHNP is also listed now as a part of the world heritage site.

Four rivers, Tirthan, Sainj, Jiwanal and Parvati originate in the park itself fed by the melting glaciers and monsoon rains. The marking of boundaries for GHNP was such that the entire 620 sq kms of Tirthan, Sainj, Jiwanal Valleys were without any human habitation except for the three villages of Shagwar, Shakti and Marore (with a total of justttt 120 odd people) all these three in Sainj Valley. And so I was lucky to have visited these special villages, which are still devoid of electricity and roads while hiking up to The Raktisaur Glacier.

It’s 9:00 am. The sky is packed up and there’s a slight drizzle in the air but my spirits are on an all new high . No that’s not because i’m too strong or anything but because i’m too used to Himachal’s mood swings by now. I finally meet Sharad and we do a little bit of socializing while he’s driving his SUV. The plan was to drive up to Niharani, the last village from where the trek begins. There are three guys in the backseat and we pick up the fourth one named Rohit from Neuli. I say an awkward Hi to everyone. They’re all young local boys in their early 20s while I and Sharad are the oldies here 😛

IMG_7365.HEIC — The barrage at Niharini.

Niharini boasts of being home to The Sainj Hydro Power Project barrage. It’s a tiny sleepy hamlet with Majaan village above,watching over it. It’s October time and the villages are in their splendid greens. We are already walking along Sainj. She’s brimming with joy, shining turquoise green, undisturbed by humans. This is her habitat, she thrives here like nowhere else, she’s born here, all pure in the wild, leaving for villages, farms and towns. She might have destinations a many, but her source is one and only Raktisar. I kept wondering how she’d get quieter , a tad more docile, as I’d hike further ahead, closing towards her birthplace.

8CBECF98-D0D7-4CE1-B9E5-30607CD23F85 — Sainj…at the very outset of her long, never ending journey

My deep reverie was obstructed by Kishori and Rohit, contemplating whether they should climb the rock and fetch those massive white mushrooms. I’ve seen plenty in the Himalayan region so far, but never had I come across mushrooms as huge as these. The boys told me that these were locally called ‘Chechi’ and are quite edible.After crossing the bridge in Chenga, we were now hiking on the left bank of Sainj, nearing Jaangla. I sat with Rohit and Kishori waiting for Sharad and Biju. They talked among themselves in their heavy Himachali accent. Pointing at this particular tree branch tied up with saffron cloth, I asked Rohit what it meant. It’s locally called The Panchasara Devta Tree and is said to protect people in this jungle. He told me how the local people celebrate interdependence between nature and humans through sacred groves and traditional practices like digging of herbs in the meadows only after October time locally called Bees Bhadon.

Kishori plucking mushrooms called Chechi, from the wild. These are pretty edible.

This huge mushroom that barely fit my hand

B8B40040-6EB0-48B8-A25E-E9B797A2BA10 — Birds eye view of Shagwar from The Guguna Top

A steep climb up to Guguna top and one could now see the first out of the only three villages that were allowed inside the GHNP. Shagwar shone bright on the green steps of the mountains, basking in the faint rainbow. Another delight that remains constant in most of my Himachal trips.While the boys decided to roll a joint out of the freshly plucked leaves( how rich is this place :)) i decided to hike further ahead. Hiking alone at such places feels therapeutic. The trails were pure wild. Endless mushrooms clothed laden woods, stupendous cascades, birds that I’d never heard before and the most vibrant butterflies that gave me company( the dogs ditched me this time for there were nowhere to be seen around). A little short of the village, while climbing up, in a dense jungle, I had a moment of self doubt. I was intimidated by a rather strange looking man, who hurried down towards me, running without brakes, staring at me incessantly as though he was drunk. I frantically dug my pockets for a Swiss knife and looked at my mobile..It had no network. The man suddenly stopped a few steps away from me, just standing and staring. I sternly asked him what he wanted, when he yelled at his cows from a distance. I realized he was slightly disoriented and breathed a sigh of relief. The sign of a blue house some meters away calmed me down. It’s then that I realized, solitude in places like these can be as intimidating as comforting at times.

Shagwar Village

Shagwar took my breath away. A village with just 15 odd houses, running only on solar electricity. Snow clad mountains surrounded it while Sainj gushing down, created the only sound apart from the chirping of birds. I decided to sip on some water from the outside tap in the blue house. A lady sat there with her daughter, shearing her lamb. This was the first time I saw a sheep without its coat. I cringed as the lamb resisted. When I asked the lady if it were hurting her, she laughed and said “ No! She just feels tickled” . My last two years of hiking in the mountains have changed my life in many ways, out of which one conscious change that I’ve made is to turn into a vegetarian. Having spent time with the shepherds, yak herders, horsemen etc in different Himalayan regions, I got to see the animals up close and found them as human as us. It feels strange to bring up a certain living being only to be slaughtered and served on your dish or skinned off to be flaunted on your dress or bags. I’ve got sloppy kisses from calves in Uttarakhand on being fed grass, just the way my pets would do and nudged by a lamb at Kareri for more scratching on his head. I often think about animal racism. A dog is treated like family and might even find a place in our bed. But a lamb with an equally warm heart and face only finds a place on our palate and plate! Strange are the ways of humans.No?

3561B727-3C33-41B8-94F7-02636DBF84D1 — A lady shearing her lamb at Shagwar Village…Gearing up for winters

Shagwar, Raktisar — Some four legged company in Shagwar

Shakti Village (Shaktee)…Where time stands still!

Shakti village Raktisar — A tiny cluster of houses at Shakti Village scattered on the hills and by the riverside

D0855E73-B6F1-4DBF-A14B-EEB64BF7C209 — Rohit and Kishori setting up the camp near Shakti…The village also has a trekkers hut

The dusk lit the sky in evening shades and we were almost there at Shakti. After crossing a massive waterfall, a forest department office, few grasslands and quite a bit of walking, we finally landed at Shakti. While Sharad and Biju were yet to reach, Rohit and Kishori sat down to fix the tents and light fire. I was finally at the village that I had read so much about. The village had three or four houses downhill while few sparkled on top. They sparkled with dim solar lights in the darkness that engulfed this quietest Himalayan alley. My head torch showed me the trail adorned with the weeping willows, leading me to the hamlet. I heard the kids yelling around, stealing the last few minutes of evening light before they were called back home by their mothers. While everyone had the same age or same species company, there was one kid who showed traits like me. She ran around with a dog, giggling away to glory,with a plastic sheet turned into a leash that she tried putting around the dog’s neck. The game was something like this..she was supposed to lock him up with the leash and run around while the dog was to escape the horror he was subjected to :P. I sipped on some water from the outside tap. This was probably the first hike where I wasn’t carrying my sipper at all. The water here was the cleanest and there was plenty of it. Every bend and corner had some fresh water springs. The cherry on the cake was that it was icy cold.

The same little kid who played with her dog the previous evening… Caught up with her and her mother before leaving for the next base camp

While an old rustic house with muddy walls stood there all abandoned, a brand new cemented house with bright colored walls stood right beside it. Both though had contrasting structures and life span, made in different eras, but they witnessed no change. Time stood still in this village. Shakti was still cut off from the world. The nearest road head was 17 km away at Niharini. It’s 2019 and there’s still no sign of electricity or medical aid here. I asked a lady ‘ Light nahi hai aapke gaon mein?’ She stretched her hand pointing towards the moon in the sky ‘ woh hai hamaara light!” Lights here in this world, that’s insulated to outside influences, work on the mercy of Sun God. Getting by is not easy in monsoons and winters.

60B0DACF-87E6-4248-A8A8-ED35C1ADBF17 — The traditional Katha Kuni architecture of Himachal

What about their culture? I asked Rohit, later that evening, while staring at those dim lights on the mountain top that were put off by 7 pm. ‘ Since they are isolated for a long time, they exhibit a distinct culture. Devta or the local deity is given utmost importance and governs all the aspects of the life of the villagers.’

In Fact when the park was in making, these three villages were given a separate space outside the boundary for habitations are never allowed inside national parks. But the belief in Devtas is so rigid that the villagers explained about their undying faith to the government and how the local deity would be displeased on displacing the sacred hamlet. Both Shakti and Marore have temples dedicated to Lord Brahma Rishi Guru Vashishth. Apart from that, villagers also worship the spiritual life of natural elements or objects. One gets to see open air temples of iron tridents ( trishul) and scrap metal of used household items with red prayer flags.

90094421_258151852012360_7386218656667009024_n — Early Mornings At Shakti Village…Spirals of smoke rise from the chimney while stacks of hay adorn the house floor…

I sat around the bonfire with four Himachali men sharing stories from this alien world that forms a part of the country we all belong to yet is so distant and distinct that one feels you’ve entered a different planet. The village boasts of being home to the oldest voter in Himachal, a 108 year old lady named Shari, who recently passed away. Oh and BTW it also happens to be the farthest polling station in the state. Imagine the election official trekking almost 22 km through steep terrain amidst forests of the Himalayan National Park ( couldn’t they just hire me ;))

‘Shari’s house is 200 meters away from the polling station and she’s carried in a palanquin for voting.’ said Rohit.

‘Palanquin…really’? I scoffed! How do they manage that? ‘ So a chair is fitted between two huge wooden poles and the person is carried in that. While this is just 200 meters,patients and sometimes even pregnant women are carried this way for miles. In a recent incident, last month in February 2020, a pregnant woman was carried in one such makeshift cart for over 30 km , taking about 8 hours to reach the nearest hospital in Sainj Valley.’

90610780_2232933150349475_6356070896750297088_n — The following morning at Shakti..while hiking up to the village, i found this old man sitting outside his room, washing his bowl. look at his beautiful humble abode led by those makeshift rocky steps.

I told the boys about the famous story of Hari Datt Sharma, popularly known as Shastriji, that I read in the GHNP book. In 1989, he was appointed as a teacher at Shakti village for 20 households of Shagwar Shakti and Marore but there was no school building at that time. Shakti was then 22 kms away from the road head. So Shastriji chose a cave that was half a km away from the Shakti temple and 200 m above the Sainj river. The first batch was of 13 children at this cave school. He continued to teach for the next 13 years till 2002. Shakti now has a school till 8th grade and kids from Marore and Shagwar village daily trek up to Shakti.

Children of Shakti Village excited to find outsiders in their land…and of course the over excited me to be around these beautiful souls

It felt strange to be in this alien world left far behind. Strangely happy. That probably because I was just a passerby. Camping in a hamlet which doesn’t know what a television looks like or hasn’t experienced the comforts of electricity sure feels incredibly unreal. Moreover a road inside the national park would mean easy accessibility, coming in of mobile towers and electric poles thus affecting the wildlife preserved so beautifully till date! But then again, wasn’t I being selfish? How about if i were to live here for good?This, in no way, was an easy thought. Yes the water is the cleanest, the air as pure as snow, there’s ample of weed that grows like wild grass and there is harmony among the meager few humans but somewhere in that beautiful simple life lies the urge to live with basic needs that you and I often take for granted. Imagine no sun for days together, battling those nasty winters in darkness.

90234817_227276001991093_2997211617202012160_n — Women Folk Of Shakti Village…This particular shepherdess was very kind to invite me to her place!

And probably some secret force heard this conversation that i had with myself for just three days later, while hiking back from the glacier, a misadventure of sorts happened that made me realize how easily, what’s basic becomes a luxury, making one feel crippled and helpless.

More about Murphy startling me at the most unexpected of places…in the next blog.

Trek Info And Itinerary

The trek was organised by HMRA ( Himalayan Monk Riders Association). The company is based out of Shangarh in Sainj Valley, Kullu and knows the area in and out. They carry out many other off beat treks in the region.

Here’s Sharad’s contact 9717110658

DAY1 : Niharani Village (1710 amsl) to Gadaparni Village to Shagwar Village to finally Shakti Village (2270 amsl)

DAY 2: Shakti Village to Marore Village (2540 amsl and the last village inside the park) to Karechar Thatch ( 2830 amsl)

DAY 3: Karechar Thatch to Parkachi Thatch (3080 amsl) ..camped at Parkachi itself this day for it poured cats and dogs.

DAY4: Parkachi Thatch to Jogini Parkachi (3110 amsl) to Raktisar Camp (4000 amsl)

Day 5: Raktisar Camp to Jogini to Parkachi Thatch (Meadow)

DAY 6: Parkachi Thatch to Kharechar Thatch to Marore Village

DAY 7: Marore to Shakti to Shagwar to Niharani Village

The trek can be graded between Moderate to Difficult. Definitely needs tremendous amount of physical stamina. The trek after Parkachi Thatch is not for the faint-hearted. Details about that in the next blog.

Solo Backpacking In The Land Of The Monpas…Zemithang/Zimithang

Swinging along with my co travelers who happen to be all Monpas, in a jam packed trundling Sumo, i find myself in a constant dilemma of uttering Ouch or Wow! The driver is huddled in a corner, sitting one person away from the gear. Trust the public transport and the roads less taken in the northeast to give that much needed adrenaline rush. What more? A TSeries song from the 90s plays on the drivers pen drive “ Mai Deewani Apne Saajan ki, the chorus repeats ‘Deewani three times..Deewani Deewani Deewani”! I think of the lyricist who came up with such interesting lyrics, just when a giant statue of Tara Devi ( The Durjen Lumpa) emerges in the backdrop,on a mountain top, interrupting my thoughts! I’m instantly reminded of the famous quote ‘difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations’!

We enter a no network zone but hey ‘Tashi Cell’ constantly shows up on my mobile screen. I am thisss close to Bhutan!

Zemithang ( locally pronounced as Zimithang) is a small cut off hamlet, sandwiched between Bhutan and Tibet. Zemi means Sand and Thang is a place.It literally means the land washed away by river. The natives here are known as Pangchen meaning ‘a person free from all sins’. A place called Khinzemame, a little ahead of Zimithang is where the present Dalai Lama crossed into India from China in 1959.

Small villages perched on the mountains bask in the last rays of the day. Namjang Chu (the river) hustles around breaking the monotony in the air. The man sitting next to me suddenly joins his hands and bows his head out of respect as the sumo whizzes past this massive White Chortan, almost 100 ft tall,called the Gorsam Chorten,a replica of Boudhanath in Nepal. I am told by the man that the chortan has a huge religious significance and opens up once in 12 years when Buddhists from all around India, Nepal, Bhutan and even Tibet come offer their prayers. It is said to have taken 13 years to build. Also a big 3 day mela takes place every year in March where Buddhists from different parts of India come display their stalls selling home made products and handicrafts as well as hand looms.

87514148_226252061882766_6230169960602140672_n — The Gorsem Chortan

87738068_892768814513797_2975660768390807552_n — Jowa serving me the local butter tea in the traditional wooden bowl

I landed at my home stay in a village called Kharman. I was going to spend a day here living with a local Monpa family, seeing this part of my country that never existed in my knowledge, doing things their way. Its pitch dark and there’s a power cut. Luckily the solar lights are on. I sit with Rinchin along with his daughter Jowa around the bukhari, sipping on the local butter tea! ( I’ve probably had more tea than ever in my entire life in this one week of travelling in Arunachal).Tea always acts as an ice breaker and conversations overflow with time. Rinchin is a cook at a local office while Jowa runs the home stay along with her younger sister. They are five siblings, the youngest being a 4 year old boy! Looks like the preference for a male child is a universal norm.

87207950_132653331388146_3798193223717879808_n — My hosts…the mother and the youngest member of the family

Rinchin tells me how WWF people make frequent visits to their villages,to make documentaries on wildlife. Red Panda, which also happens to be the local mascot, is often spotted by him while he’s in the upper reaches finding greener pastures for his cattle. His cow shed has a tree which bears a local fruit called ‘Lejzu’ which happens to be Pandas favorite feast apart from Bamboos. The other wildlife includes Blue Sheep Takin, Black Bear, Pheasants, the gorgeous Rhododendrons and some rare medicinal plants( like Yarchagumba) that are locally called ‘Jadibutis’ which are sold worth lakh a kilo to other countries. He speaks in a rather sad tone “ Is saal black necked cranes ek bhi nahi aaya’ This rare species of bird which usually migrates to this side in winters was not found at the river banks for there’s heavy machine work going due to construction of a hydro electric project( a 780MW Nyamjang Chu HEP of the Bhilwara Group is coming up). I sigh thinking of us humans taking away their habitat…little by little..day by day!

Ps: The Black Necked Crane is not only a threatened bird but also revered as the incarnation of the 6th Dalai Lama for the Monpas.

87065415_226349825076946_4823966443479498752_n — While hiking up to the Lumpo Gompa

I woke up the next morning to yak bells outside my room. Jowa and I decided to hike up to Lumpo and Muchet, villages on hilltop with beautiful monasteries. On my way up trailing behind Jowa who climbed so briskly I asked her about the local farming. I was quite taken aback to know that farming is no longer done professionally. The Pangchen community believes in preserving wildlife and the villagers would suffer huge losses for the wild pigs and deer would harm their crops. Since they don’t believe in hurting animals, it became difficult to maintain their crops. Most of the locals work for either GREF or as private laborers, collecting and selling sand and stones. ‘And what about homestay?’ I asked? She scoffed ‘ Homestay! Madam, the last guest came five months before you, no one knows about Zemithang. People only come till Tawang and head back.’ I was now determined more than ever to write on this piece of heaven for it deserved much more love!

87447558_503694137012649_2952317913194823680_n — The magnificent Guru Rimpoches statue at Lumpo

Namjangchu sparkled in the sun deep down in the valley as i stood at the Lumpo Gompa under the mighty Guru Rimpoche statue looking down at the valley like a guardian angel. Jowa tells me how one gets to see all Chinese garbage in the monsoons for Namjangchu starts flowing from China, to Arunachal then to Bhutan and finally lands at Assam. I joked, ‘So Assam bears the brunt of undisciplined garbage disposal of all the three countries eh!?’

87364218_2282693462024994_6290668165558960128_n — One of the Private Gompas at Muchut

We hiked from Lumpo to Muchet, a tiny village that turned out to be my favorite with a spectacular three storeyed bright colorful gompa. A quick bite back at Zemithang and we further hiked up to the Gorsam Chorten. It had been eight hours of constant hiking and walking around the villages but never did i feel tired for every hamlet offered a new surprise. Huge houses made of stones and wood dotted the landscape in Kelektang and upper Kharman villages. They stood like sentinels of time etched with stories from eons ago. An exceptionally humongous stoned wall house stood at the farthest end of the village. The legend has it that it belonged to the Queen of Tawang, centuries ago. She was the second wife of the king who possessed the powers of demon and wooed the king while he came to this side for hunting while the first wife was considered to be an angel who hailed from the Bomdila region.These stone houses are locally called Sikpa Khem and the three storeyed ones are known as Zangduperi. ( not sure if i spelled it right..written on the basis of my host’s pronunciation)

87486498_507745870146087_3056022531371696128_n — The traditional architecture…houses made of stones and wood…The huge big house on the right is where the queen of Tawang lived once…centuries ago

87174356_499505847378366_1732232951258677248_n — Monpa kids…they are 8 siblings..with 6 girls and two boys!

Seeing me huffing and puffing my way up the steps made of stones in the village, Jowa asked me, ‘Madam paani peeyega’ I nodded, ‘Yes Please’! We decided to stop at this lady’s house for water which turned out to be a long chit chat session over a cup of namkeen chai with murmuras( white puffed rice) dipped in it along with freshly cooked Khupsey ( a sweet snack made for Losar). I asked the host lady if I could borrow the red hat donned by her called SIRJZA. She said ‘aapka juuda kholna padega’ I quipped ‘kholega but darna mat since my hair would have been all over the place” and when i finally left it loose, she went like “Madam kahaan se khareeda itna saara baal?’ We all cracked up at that moment. Apart from her great sense of humor, I was mighty impressed with her impeccable Hindi. Her many relatives had come over for Losar preparations which was just a week away. I asked them if they all got together and performed their folk dance called Aji Lhamu. Sadly the present generation doesn’t practice the traditional rituals much and in order to learn the dance, they call people from Lumpo where villagers are more into the old traditions. She said ‘ hum toh Aara and Chang peeyega aur dost log ke ghar jaayega.’ (Aara and Chang are the local wines made out of fermented rice and corn.)

87736598_126408068787459_8770585791257640960_n — My butter tea with murmuras ( puffed rice dipped in it) And the Radio Gaga! this part of the world still listens to the radio..only that it works after 5:30pm

87162806_1151391901859685_3029183555616899072_n — Monpa women all happy preparing for Lossar!

While leaving her place, she asked me to come visit her again and told me to show her pictures to Ajay Devgan if i ever go to Bombay! That explained a lot about her flawless Hindi. People in this remote area love Bollywood and often pick up cds like 10 movies for 100 bucks in Tawang. So what if there are no cinema halls!

After reaching the home stay,Jowa made the most delish momos and I also tried their local cuisine called Churpi and Zann. We were exhausted with almost ten hours of constant hiking but weren’t done for the day.The girls were excited to show me their dresses that they planned to wear on Losar. I so wanted to try their traditional dress before hitting the bed. Jowa and I both wore the Shingka along with Dojzu( the black hat made of yak hair) and we posed with tired faces but genuine happy smiles 😛

87237337_648384329263310_2135740460088426496_n — The traditional Monpa dress has 5 parts.. The cap which is of two kinds called ..The black one is called Dojzu made of yak hair while the red one is made of wool called Sirjza the dress is called Shingka and the jacket is known as Tatuong A black woolen thing is worn behind called Tengnemgakjima

87129350_531423370913538_5717432456953462784_n — was way too exhausted yet thrilled to try the local dress

Later that night,while writing my diary,my pen scribbled the words in synchrony with the chimes of the prayer wheel outside my window. My heart was full,content and filled with gratitude. Over the last five years, I’ve traveled around the countryside, meeting incredible tribes from different regions, at times camping in a cave at 4200amsl with local Himachalis, living with yak herders in Bhutan, staying with the Gaddi Shepherds of Dhauladhars, introspecting while living with the nuns at a gompa in Arunachal and calling innumerable homestays my home, each of them weaving new stories that folks like you and i might have never known.The simplicity of people and their unconditional love for a random traveler awes me every single time. The places might change, people might differ but the warmth and love i receive every single time is the same …same old!

87244009_3510309025709409_2968469227905744896_n — My host and her cattle

TRAVEL and HOMESTAY INFO

Zemithang is a small town/hamlet located 70 kms ahead of Tawang on the Lumla axis. Its surrounded by Bhutan and Tibet.
There are two ways to get to Zemithang. You could either catch a bus from the Tawang bus stand. The bus ticket would cost you Rs 170. PS: the buses do not operate on Sundays. Other option which is mostly preferred is the shared sumos charging Rs 250 for a ride till Zemithang. Try grabbing the front or the middle seat to avoid bumps and motion sickness. The Sumos are available at the bus stand itself.
In case you want to book the sumo in advance, here’s the contact. 9402404085. Because at times it isnt easy to get one.
Lumla is half way Zemithang and is famous for the huge Tara Devi statue on a mountain top called The Durjan Lumpa. ps: the sumos dont stop there though. one has to take a detour from the break point.
One will find Tashi cell network( Bhutanese service provider) here for Bhutan is just 30kms away. No other network works beyond Lumla except BSNL.
I stayed at Rinchin Tsewang Homestay in a village called Kharman, a kilometre ahead of Zimithang. The family is extremely warm and helpful. Jowa guided me around the villages and hiked along to the gompas. She also makes the best momos everr!
Here’s Rinchin’s contact…9402030387. The homestay is comfortable with clean bedrooms. The washroom is in the household premises but not attached. Remember you are in a cut off world where basic amenities are a luxury. They charge Rs 750 as rent with complimentary dinner.
Mr Dorjee, a very kind gentleman who helped me with Rinchins contact is also coming up with his own homestay ( its almost done). Here’s his contact 9402859651.
Every season has a different charm here. If you wish to see snow then winters is a good time though it was pretty hazy when i went. I believe the place is at its prettiest best during the monsoons in July and August though the roads are in a pathetic state due to landslides and i’m not sure if you’d be able to hike around much. March to April and Sep to October seems ideal.

Things To See In and Around Zemithang/Zimithang

Just as you enter you’d come across the huge Gorsam Chorten. Built by Sangay Pradhar( a lama), its 7 centuries old and holds a big religious significance. The locals host a mela here every year in March and it opens up once in 12 years.
Hike/ Ride up to T Gompa also called the Taktsang Gompa which is 30 something kms from here. It is considered as one of the holiest Buddhist shrines in Arunachal. Guru Padmasambhavas footprints are said to be imprinted in this shine as he meditated here in the 8th century.This place is also famous for Red Panda sightings.
T Gompa is just 2 kms from the very famous Sangetsar/ Madhuri lake. one can plan on doing both these places together. Though you do need a vehicle going up to this place for a taxi would charge a bomb for the same. i couldn’t find any locals going that way for every one was caught up preparing for Lossar, making trips to Tawang instead.
Black Necked Cranes migrate to this side in winters. If you are lucky, you can spot them at Namjang Chu river.
Hike up to Gompas at Muchut and Lumpo. I hiked up to Psamdamcheling Gompa at Muchut and Lumpo Gompa (further ahead on top with a huge Guru Rimpoche statue).One can further hike up to Lumpo Village from the gompa. The village is just a stones throw away from Tibet border.
Must do a village tour of the upper Kharmen and Kalakteng villages in order to witness the old traditional monpa houses made of stones, mud wood and bamboo.

Shangarh Beckoning…..Yet Again!

82274036_618166872347448_5153225211985788928_n — The oh so beautiful homestay at Shangarh!

82938002_179838673077486_3124708670571544576_n — This picture was taken after the hike got over…hence quite a few bandaids on my toes 😛

Folding my cargos, i literally thrusted them into my backpack. My mind isn’t at ease. Its 12:30 am and i’m just back from one of the formal dinner nights that fail to satiate my tummy! ( Army Wife Duties are for real) and I have a bus to catch for Aut at 4:30 am. Groggily I talk to Tee, “ Tee ya, I’m not sure about this trek. The book on GHNP says it’s not easy plus i’d be hiking with four men who are absolute strangers. I’ll be in pure wilderness with no network. What if someone tries to act funny. There won’t be even dogs to save me Tee?!”

My ever so supportive husband pacifies me in ways you’d never believe! ‘Carry your pepper spray and knife and just sleep it off” Clearly, my husband is a man of few words :P! Welllll! Sleep i did that night, for those meager two hours until the alarm pushed me out of my bed. I had never been so unsure of a trip before. I had probably read the book on GHNP a little too more than required.

82306921_468719067149036_4980558691938861056_n — HRTC rides…clicked at Pandoh.

HRTC almost feels like home now. After traveling in the same bus for a year now, one’s gotten used to all the state transport melodrama. Guess what? I immediately recognized the bus conductor and the driver. The driver’s yanko hat was hard to forget and he sported the same even today. While the bus conductor smiled at me, i thought he too recognised me. When he asked me for the ticket, I frantically dug my pockets but couldn’t find it. He said ‘Chalo jaane do” I quipped, ‘Bhaiya hum last time miley the, Mandi jaate hue! Yaad hai aapko?” He immediately retorted “ Hum toh Mandi roz jaate hai, hum aapko yaad honge par aap humko nahi!” I sheepishly smiled and answered in my head “ Well Thanks mate! That was very flattering!”

82165000_196306661507220_7963103201983463424_n — The happy cows grazing before the winters dry up the green grass galore.

After hours of staring outside the window, being humored well by the passenger on the same seat who happened to be a young college pass out from Mandi anddd who was rather curious to find out what made me travel alone, I finally reached Aut at 1:30 PM. P from HMRA was waiting to pick me up from the bus stand. He had a warm infectious smile and spoke to me as though we were friends since long. No inhibitions at all. He raced the car like he were a Ferrari driver and suddenly paced down on seeing the cops around. I asked him if they were strict about the speed limits and seat belts here. He muttered ‘ Ye log yahaan sirf maal pakadne ke liye baithe hai! Abhi aut aate samay pakda tha mujhe aur puri gaadi khulwa di in search of weed’! Aha! Welcome to Kullu. Weed is organic and we wouldn’t know how to work without it. I found it strange for the first time when men around me smoked up publicly but this was my 9th trip and I knew this was the norm.

82216364_853236038461067_5324073118325538816_n — The makeshift cafe at Shangarh.

Back in March I was on the same road, lugging my way through, in the bus to Deori village. Mahi, my then homestay owner who even helped me with this trip messaged ‘ hike ke baad pakka ghar aana”. While I was tempted to leave the hike and run away to his place right away. Never was I so unsure of any of the treks before. On our way to Shangarh we gave lift to many locals who missed their bus. The Manu temple, one of the few Pagoda style temples in Kullu Valley stood their on the mountain top, looking as splendid as ever. I wondered if I could check it out this time.Its said that the walk from Neuli Village,along the Sainj river is extremely rewarding especially for the bird watchers looking for Blue Whistling Thrush, Chestnut Capped Tesia, Blue Magpies, Kestral and Shikra.

82526979_606201280139985_7616155078092652544_n — one of the many rustic houses with hay hung outside to dry.

An hour later we were at Shangarh. It lies in the ecozone of GHNP and people belonging to this belt take pride in their roots and call themselves Shangharis.

We reached a tiny makeshift cafe right at the entrance of Shangarh. The homestay that Mahi had arranged for me was still farther ahead. We decided to grab a cup of tea before driving up to the village I would be staying at tonight before finally starting the hike, the following day. The view outside the window looked surreal. What a massive transition in just a couple of hours. I could see blue greens and yellow while no vehicles honked. Dry hay hung by the rustic cobbled roofs outside. Shangarh looked different this time. I was lucky to have witnessed the last snowfall back in March. A little later I was at the meadow that looked somewhat green. Being a weekend, a relatively good number of people sat around, though very few of them were tourists. A flock of sheep grazed while the shepherdess stared into the deep oblivion. I sat down behind her, scribbling a few lines in my head;.[p

82832911_108725270536470_3747912947821707264_n — The temple frames!

She sat there with an empty mind

Her flock of sheep, some 8 or nine

Wandered around like fleeting clouds

Just me and her made the crowd

82137876_114302606557597_5964197492252737536_n — The Shangarh Meadows with the famous devta temple in the backdrop.

Just then my homestay uncle called up. ‘Beta have you reached! We look forward to see you soon’! I didn’t expect my homestay owner to be so proficient in English for people settled in the villages mostly spoke in their native lanuage. I was taken aback. I honestly had no idea about how the place was. I’d blindly believed Mahi. but i’m glad i went with less hopes because when i saw my abode, I was in seventh heaven. It was probably one of the most beautiful stays i had in Himachal.

82241688_490966765134450_2412575669528559616_n — Auntie makes the best aaloo paratha ever and my bedroom porch was so gorgeous that i never wanted to move in!

My personal definition of a perfect homestay would be, a wooden house in the mountains, away from the mainstream village, a small balcony where i could sip on my coffee while staring at the mountains, basking in the sun andddddd some doggie love would be a cherry on the cake. Well i got all of that and the doggie love doubled with Shaina and Rambo, the two GSDs at the Lord Shiva Snowline Homestay. The house had sprawling apple trees all around in its compound and I was lucky enough to witness the last lot of apples of the season.

82529416_587912802061758_2691062345433612288_n — Shaina and Rambo! all hearts for these two!

82381969_462361777981303_2739392762011975680_n — Reflections of the view outside on my bedroom window!

Personally not so much into fruits ( rarely do I indulge in good habits) it was one enlightening talk with Uncle who told me how the apple cultivation started back in the day in Shimla district ( Mashobra, Kothkai, Jubbal etc) and was introduced by Samuel Evan Stokes from America. While Capt RC Scott had introduced apple cultivation in the Kullu Valley but the ones that they introduced were sourish and not the sweet kinds that us Indians prefer.

82504656_172538767296794_2289568020919484416_n — Apples galore! The golden licious

Till now, i could only classify apples on the basis of their color that is green or red but they actually have varieties which are mainly The Royal Delicious, The Red Delicious and The Golden Delicious! Well Uncle was very sweet and kind to pluck all of these for me and for once I actually enjoyed eating fruits! Now that’s what I love about travelling. It makes you do things that you’d never do otherwise and of course adds a little more GK to your bank of faint knowledge,

83857452_2642740365962317_2989184808657092608_n — The Red Delicious!

The last rays of the sun was yet to greet us and i asked uncle if i could join him and Shaina on a walk to his hut close to the homestay. He has a beautiful wooden cabin that he rents out to people who intend to stay for a longer time and some camping place around it. We walked through some more apple orchards while Shaina roamed around like a free child sniffing around the countryside leaving her mark ( peeing ) at every nook and bend! Dasher and Haachu (my pets) must really envy this kind of life.

83380013_2777867088927861_2547275718060933120_n — Corn kept on the rooftop to dry to eventually make flour out of it!

82511264_167781747964754_7823416829564420096_n — Evening coffee in my balcony!

Rest of the evening was spent in my balcony, sipping on endless green teas and fighting those nervous butterflies in my stomach for the following day was the first day of the hike. I was going with three Himachali boys and Sharad, the founder of HMRA but i’d not met them even once. I was desperate to do GHNP and Mahi ( one of the previous homestay owners helped me with their contact). The sky was packing up. That night lying down in my bed, the words I read in the book kept haunting me ‘ rudimentary landslide trails not easy to negotiate and a tough tough stamina’.Who knew there were bigger hurdles coming my way. Well , misadventures often make the best adventures…and the hike up to Raktisaur Glacier was all about that.

So much to write and so lil time…Untill next time 🙂 The Raktisaur adventures shall follow up soon!

82923533_2541920682711626_4698642390158671872_n — How kind was uncle to climb up the tree and pluck apples from his orchard to gift me for my journey!

82502850_484080132302778_272728778323525632_n — My sweetest hosts…Uncle and Auntie!

82362184_545875286002711_4268697420591792128_n — While leaving, bidding goodbye to Shaina!

TRAVEL AND HOMESTAY INFO

Shangarh lies in the ecozone of Sainj Valley in Kullu region and boasts of housing many local deity temples of different architecture.
It can be considered as a base for many hikes in Great Himalayan National Park since Niharani , which is the base village to GHNP hikes is a stones throw away and doesnt have any homestay.
I caught a bus from Sec 43 ISBT Chandigarh for Aut ( the famous tunnel) that leads to Kullu Manali. After getting down here you may catch a bus to Neuli and further ahead to Shangarh from there. There is an option of shared cabs as well.
I stayed at the uppermost village in Shangarh. The homestay is situated very close to the forest rest house and offers undisturbed views of the Himalayas. It is called Lord Shiva Snowline Adventures.
The room is beautifully done with wood work and has comfortable beds and blankets. It has huge glass windows offering one with incredible views and a balcony to die for.
The washroom is located downstairs and though not attached with the bedroom but is tiled and neat and clean with geyser etc.
The charges are Rs 750 per day which includes all your three meals as well as tea and coffee ( isn’t that so cool)
Contact Info : 9805454430
There are tons of hikes around Shangarh. the serious hikers can trek up to Lapah, Dhel Meadow and Raktisaur Glacier in GHNP. Shakti and Marore Villages in GHNP can also be hiked up to.
Easy day hikes could also be done to near by waterfalls, Manu Temple, Upper Nahi Village etc.

Phularidhar : A tiny hamlet in the lap of Dhauladhars that will take your breath away!

The best trips often turn out to be the unplanned ones. While doing a solo trip to Barot Valley, the idea was to explore Rajgundha Valley and Lohardi as well for it made sense to tick them off since they’re just a stone’s throw away. But Phuladhar or Phularidhar was nowhere in my knowing. It was a pure accident and an impulsive unplanned one day trip.

So while catching the third bus on that tiring day of 14th May, when i was up since 4 am and every part of my body ‘ouched’ so bad, a very kind gentleman named Roshanlal figured how exhausted I was standing in a jam packed Himachal Roadways bus in Ghatasani. ‘Ma’am please sit down”! He spoke to me in a rather strange accent, the ones that the locals use with foreigners. I politely declined his kind gesture and insisted that he kept sitting but he wouldn’t listen and my tired legs eventually gave in to his kindness.

2047F32F-B0B4-4265-AE8B-B73972C8A1D8 — From my HRTC bus window!

We had probably half an hour before he reached his village and those few minutes were spent talking about his hamlet and the surprises it had to offer. He gave me his number and told me to drop by whenever i planned my next trip.

Fast forward to four days later, after having roamed around Barot and Chota Bhangal region, I caught an early morning bus from Lohardi back to Mandi. Sitting on my seat, I thought of how I could spend another day in the mountains but somewhere i hadn’t been in the last four days. I decided to call Roshanlal but disconnected the call before it rang. I thought I’d give him a surprise and drop by without letting him know. And so i got down at Jhatingri and hiked up 6 kms with a not so light bag, often getting tempted to call him and tell him to pick me up.

70908885_973187416365100_6825304483384262656_n — Phuladhar on a bright sunny day. Pic taken from my hosts.

But somehow I didn’t want to stop walking/ sweating or getting burnt. There was this ‘hard to describe’ kind of excitement of doing an impromptu trip to an unknown villager’s place. I remembered Roshanlal telling me that his camp was on the topmost point of the mountain and had a 360 degree view of the place around. That was my reward and it kept me going without complaining.

After about an hour’s drive in the HRTC, i got down at the Jhatingri bus stop. I asked this old Auntie at a Dhaaba by the road if the track on the right went up to Phuladhar. She nodded and invited me for breakfast. While having a not so good maggie and a super milky tea, she asked why I traveled alone even when I had a husband and why my nose wasn’t adorned with a nath like other married women. I simply smiled at her and told her that the husband likes his bike rides way too much and I loved my mountains more than anything and that it was okay to do our own things. Auntie was left a tad bit amused but I was used to these questions followed by the much animated reactions 🙂

At the outset of the hike…since i had no one to click me.

I unzipped my wallet to check how much money i was left with and hoped I could afford this one extra date with the mountains of Phuladhar. 1400 bucks! I had no idea how much Roshanlal would charge me but I had no plans of heading back home today. And so I started the hike up to Phuladhar, in the ever so confusing weather. The sun was menacingly hot and a mini truck passing by tempted me bad to hitchhike but walking 5 to 6 kms uphill would have gifted me umpteen more surprises than going on a four wheeler. So I constantly did some Oohs and Aahs ( I now know why Maria Sharapova grunts so much while playing). Screaming out the pain helps quite a bit 🙂 Such insightful discoveries on a solo hike are bound to happen! No? 😉

71083763_1279972955496925_3973157276390260736_n — Boundless farms en route and snowy Dhauladhars in the backdrop. (Pic taken from the hosts)

The hike started from the PWD guest room at the base of Jhatingri, a steep track going uphill on its left. The road isn’t tarred and there are quite a few shortcuts in between through the Pine and Deodar trails. But I choose to walk more and longer, for the initial part at least. It was strange how I found myself the only one hiking up to the village with not a soul or a vehicle around. While Barot was just a few km away from Jhatingri, there was a stark difference between the two. Barot was swamped with guest houses home stays and resorts while the hamlets here, enjoyed the solitude and absence of human jam.

I learnt after my trip that Jhatingri was once the summer capital of Barot and was renowned for its palaces of Raja and Rani which are now in ruins. Its situated at 6600ft amsl at Ghoghar Dhar and lies just 5 kms ahead of Ghatasani ( from where I caught the bus for Barot Valley on day 1 of my trip)

The sun only got meaner and the trails through the dense Blue Pines invited me to take some shelter. I sat down, listening to the alien sounds of crickets and toads. A boy came sliding down from the top, and disappeared into the lower trails. I wondered what i’d do in two hours, would probably take him 20 mins! Mountain folks are forever giving you some fitness complex. The mud on the trail was wet and loose yet i decided to take the short cut. While climbing up, the stones started falling off and the soil under my feet lost its ground. I had a huge tree root right in front of me and I caught hold of it like a child would catch hold of his father’s hand. While the nature tried to push me down, another part of it came to my rescue, saving me from some more scars.

4788ABAB-8314-47E0-AF88-9178812949E7 — At Devdhar Village

I reached a relatively flatter land with green farms around me. A hut or two stood by the farms and there was finally a sign of civilization. I decided to go ask its occupants for water and that’s when I got to know that this hamlet was called Devdhar. I was told that Phuladhar was another km and a half away. The fields were neon green and yellow with Jawaar almost ready for the harvest. A little further ahead, stood a green house with the most beautiful backdrop. It was nestled amidst the lush green farms and Dhauladhars peeped out of the clouds behind. I decided to go across the farm fence just when this not so social fur baby tied under a tiny shed on the farms,barked rambunctiously and dared me not to move ahead. Throwing few Parle Gs at him helped us bonding to some extent. His folks worked in the farms while he like a good boy watched over the house.

C78C7F7F-55BB-4224-980A-9B742CDB073B — The little Furry Pal, guarding his house!

The path from Devdhar village to Phularidhar had many rustic houses, some abandoned while some still occupied. They screamed of old age traditions with mud ceilings and stone walls, complementing the surreal village backdrop so beautifully.

B2E28342-5A1C-4E8B-8789-103C1DE24287 — One of the abandoned houses in Phuladhar!

It had started to rain now and i was a KM away from Roshanlal’s abode. His place is called CAMP 360 and it truly lives up to its name, standing on the topmost hillock with astounding views from every angle. I reached a track with a wired fence on either sides. Two towers and potato farms laid on my right while two huge buildings with red roofs, a private guest house stood on my left. The road was definitely less taken for it narrowed as I went further with grass and gravel. I spotted a cottage on the left while another one further ahead with a gazebo kind of look with red slanting roofs. I finally called Roshanlal and told him that I was outside his place but didn’t know which one of the cottages was his.

70933054_1234405283397535_6445402106223394816_n — Potato farms ( pic taken from the hosts)

The one on the left is called Robins cottage owned by a French man. Roshanlal stood on a ladder painting one of the walls of his camp along with a volunteer , a student from Bangalore.

Roshanlal exclaimed rather excitedly ‘Mujhe pata tha aap aaoge” Welcome Ma’am”! He took me to the dining cabin which had huge glass windows, watching over the valley below. The space was done up so beautifully with DIY driftwood lamps and seating arrangements. He then got me and the student boy some tea. While catching up over that cup of chai, the young guy told me about these sites where in one can volunteer to work with homestays or lodges in the mountains and while you don’t get paid but your food and accommodation is taken care of. Why didn’t I know of such things while studying in college. Well i never even loved mountains then ( how i’d disown that part of me now).

71072968_744516969316805_6239137620387954688_n — Rains and all the magic they create! (pic taken from the hosts)

This was his first trip to the mountains ever…in fact first to the North India. He belonged to Kerala and was pursuing his bachelors in Bangalore. I asked him about Bir since the take off point 360 was just a stone’s throw away and he revealed some rather startling facts about paragliding. Or probably it was startling for me for I didn’t really know much about the sport. The longest flight ever made from Bir Billing was 253 kms by a guy called Deby Choudhary.

A4FB2486-2D66-4EF1-9A97-CCC2F33EBE87 — My cosy cabin with astounding views!

Later that afternoon, i moved to my cosy cabin with undisturbed views all around me. The weather deteriorated and the winds rattled the windows so bad that i thought i would fly away with the wooden walls. The clouds engulfed the camp and i saw nothing and heard only thunderstorms. The fact that there were glass windows all around made me feel like i was sitting in the open, vulnerable to the wrath of the mountain showers. Fast forward by an hour or two, the clouds started to lift up and my room windows gifted me the best views ever. I ran out like an excited child.

123E4F94-1AA4-43EE-B85F-D9F99EE1DCB4 — That furious downpour!

71799853_517254162369778_6293612464424615936_n — After rains!

Didi sat in the kitchen asking me to join her for tea. Their sons were back from school which was 6 kms away, and while the elder one sat around the bukhari, the younger one slept like a log under a layer of blankets. Moving closer to bukhari, i sat down next to the young boy trying to break the ice. ‘So how long does it take to hike up from your school’? He quipped ‘Half an hour” I exclaimed ‘ Means two hours for me eh’! He giggled. And then the conversations overflowed itself. He told me how he wanted to join the army after 12th and that became the epicenter of our talks. He was thrilled to know that i’m from an army background. Later I asked Gauri Di if she would accompany me for a walk outside. She readily agreed and showed me around. We walked up to the 360degree paragliding take off point. There was a hike that went all the way up to Bir Billing but required a day or two.

70934562_1858349630934204_2523703979762778112_n — Hypnotic sunsets!

Later that night while feasting on the yummiest Lingdu pickle, we sat down at the dining hall chatting up, Roshanlal revealing a side of him that I fell in love with. We happened to talk about how difficult it is to make people see and think beyond religion and caste in small villages like his. He so comfortably talked about how he told his mom that there was nothing wrong with his wife while she was on periods and that she too could go to temple or do the normal chores of the house, quite contrary to the belief of the village folks. He had a certain pride in his tone when he said ‘Meri wife mujh se zyaada ghoomi hai, Bombay bhi gayi hai mere dosto ke saath’! They made such an adorable couple, chopping veggies together and running their camp with equal responsibilities.

0253F5C9-E5B8-4832-BC80-C58C055932AC — The dining cabin with driftwood lamps!

That night while sleeping in my moonlit cabin with blue mountains guarding me, i told myself ‘Good Decision Akanksha, glad i came here’! I had never done such a random trip before. Sitting in the roadways, peeping into my wallet and still not sure if I’d be able to pay for my tickets back home. But then what is life without risks. What are adventures made of? That day hiking up to an unknown village, staying with a family i never knew but making conversations like we were long lost buds, sleeping while watching the mountains change its colours and hiking back the next day to Jhatingri to board a bus with a spectacular sunrise over the snowy Dhauladhars, convinced me that best trips are made of no plans and countless uncertainties. For what are good stories made of?!

70622937_3043966632342722_5157355158048342016_n — If only everyday started this way!

TRAVEL AND CAMP INFO

Phuladhar also called Phularidhar is a small hamlet on a mountaintop (8500ft) in Mandi district.

One needs to catch a bus from Mandi to Ghatasani or any bus that is Kangra or Palmpur bound. Ghatasani has a junction point where in if you go straight on the main highway, you’d be heading to Palampur whereas if you go on the right, you’d be traveling towards Barot Valley.

From Ghatasani, catch any bus that goes towards Barot. Get down at Jhatingri bus stop and take the track on the left side of the road that goes up, leaving behind the PWD guest house.

It’s a 5 to 6 kms hike up to Roshanlal’s camp called Camp 360 Fularidhar. It is located on the highest point and has a 360 degree view of the valley. The camp is very close to one of the take off points for Paragliding in Bir Billing.

One can do day hikes or even longer ones from the camp. There’s a long trek that goes up to Bir with spellbinding views to offer. It’s one of the rare treks, almost the entire way on the ridge, giving you a glimpse of two valleys at the same time ie Joginder Nagar and Barot Valley.

Roshan Lal’s camp offers good home cooked food, tents for camping and an indoor neat and clean common washroom and toilet. There is also a glass cabin room available for those who do not wish to camp.

Phuladhar has other stay options too but this one being on the topmost location offers the best views and solitude for people looking for peace and solitude. If you’re looking for a quiet getaway, this place is your haven.

Roshanlal’s Contact Details :97365.87471 and 76499.08848

Here is their websdite http://www.camp-360.in

Bhaba Valley: You’ve Got To See It To Believe It!

Unexpected…unplanned…you’d always find the sweetest serendipity! Bhaba was one such bitter sweet accident! A tad bitter and a whole lot sweeter!

While I had already made 7 trips to Himachal in the past few months, the urge was to explore something new. The plan though still revolved around hiking around the mountains but centered around at my pseudo native place i.e The Kumaon Himalayas of Uttarakhand! And after a week long research of the whereabouts, booking homestays and almost doing my travel reservations, I put my wise head into checking the weather…and what did I find…Voila! Thunderstorms and incessant rains! The monsoons had marked their arrival!

Heartbroken, I cancelled my home stay booking and sat down all dejected in my reading room, staring at the Himachal Pradesh Map! My eyes hopelessly running over the map set on Muling. Where had I heard about it or seen it before? I then remembered watching IndianInMotion and his incredible documentary on Bhaba Valley. I owe this trip to Sarvana!

70000853_375821776680299_3069989159427899392_n — An eventful 12 hour long journey in Himachal Roadways!

Like most of the trips by HRTC, this bus ride too kick started on a pretty amusing note. The guys at the HRTC counter weren’t ready to give the tickets before 6am, not even ten mins in advance. On finally going to the him for the third time, he told me the fare for two people would be 1100 something! I remember doing my homework very well and the ticket fare given online said 450 per head! When I tried to clear my doubt, the guy at the counter took it as an offense and wouldn’t clear out the confusion. I later sent my friend Tripti, to whom he finally gave the tickets after all the melodrama! Wonder what he was up to in an HRTC bus doing a conductor’s job! He could have easily bagged a role for a villain in our dramatic Bollywood flicks!

PS: The ticket fares were a tad more expensive for this was a deluxe HRTC, which we weren’t aware of before we boarded the bus!

It was a long ride till Wangtoo and then an hour’s drive further up to Kaafnu! The bus started late as we waited for some porters who were going up to Peo! Meanwhile the rains unleashed their wrath, all growling & menacing, at the very outset of our journey! It kind of deterred my spirits initially but as the bus moved further, the rain drops on my window glass and the drifting clouds that accompanied me,made it all okay! I and Tripti caught up on each other’s life stories and reminisced the beautiful days gone by that we spent in Bhutan together! We hoped that this hike would be as memorable as those we did back then!

69654096_230729241168516_6432786378525769728_n — Narkanda and its apple orchards!

The bus ride was a memory down the lane of sorts! Just last year, around the same time I and the husband were tripping on the same route, while biking to Spiti Valley from Chandigarh. My favorite town, Narkanda looked splendid with apple orchards looking green like never before, veiled in nets in order to be secure from rains. The calm was suddenly broken by this mad passenger yelling at the top of his voice…’Kya hai ye sab…ek toh bus late chali in aadmiyon ke vajah se aur ab ye sab gandh falah rahein hai..chal kya rahan hai yahaan..ye bus Rekong Peo ja rahi hai ya Karachi?!” ( ‘the bus got late because of these wretched porters and now theyre spilling all the dirt around. Is this bus going to Rekong Peo or Karachi’?)

Did we just hear that uncouth comment! The porters were carrying huge sacks of ration and some grains inadvertently spilled out! They did delay the bus by half an hour at least but this didn’t mean that the man could talk nonsensical crap! A little later when he tried to open his mouth again, both I and Tripti decided to give him a shut up call and this time two old ladies too spoke up. This so called educated retard was sitting in the wrong bus, using his fickle tongue passing racist comments. How would we everrr thrive as a nation with such communal hatred I wondered!

70268543_395518837822851_8066650237810245632_n — Apple trees covered with nets in order to be secure from rains!

The bus halted at Kumarsain for a lunch break. We had the yummiest thaali ever on a roadside dhaaba and it cost us just 50 bucks! While most of the passengers were locals, there was a couple who was travelling all the way from Bangalore with a toddler! All three of them fought for the window occasionally while throwing up. Motion sickness can be really evil sometimes. The streets of Rampur were clogged with vehicles and human jam like the arteries of an obese heart patient . It isn’t a very attractive valley but has a huge bus stand and acts as a nodal point for buses plying towards Kinnaur, Spiti etc.

69640574_637665050091678_48258772228898816_n — Finally at the Wangtoo Bridge

We reached Wangtoo at around 6:30pm. One could see the Kharcham Wangtoo Hydro Electric Power Station from the bridge where we waited for our guide to come pick us up. The road to Katgaon ( our base for tonight) was narrow & snaked across the gorges with our car precariously navigating its way avoiding cattle & sudden dashes across the roads by mongooses. Snowy peaks glistening in the moonlight and one could see the faint silhouette of the mountains now!

69655995_2391993527556064_4053607163510128640_n — The Electricity Board Rest House! We were the only occupants.

Katgaon is a small village with just two or three homestays and an Electricity Board Rest House. We choose the latter which though was situated at a scenic location, bang on the Bhaba Khud but wasn’t so pleasant from inside. There were about 8 rooms and we were the only occupants. As if it wasn’t any less eerie, the caretaker before leaving the premises warned us not to open the door if someone knocked. Though kinda jittery initially, the tiredness made it easy to fall asleep! We traveled almost 14 hrs and our bums were numb. But we knew that the following morning would take care of that. We were finally going to hike up to Kara!

69649353_2422169454727111_5818705896007532544_n — Kick starting the hike on a bright sunny day! View from the terrace

The next morning was bright and sunny. Thank Heavens! We drove up to Homtey village (a little ahead of Kafnu) and started our hike from the bridge over the Bhaba Khud river. While walking along the brimming river on our left, I couldn’t help but notice the snow laden slopes that were struck by an avalanche in winters. Small little ice caves formed at their base and one could see humans and machines at the farther end of it! A tunnel was being constructed to generate hydroelectricity. I wasn’t surprised as the water flow in Bhaba Khud was immense already, even before the onset of monsoons! The Bhaba Hydro Project is India’s first underground Dam.

69833696_353759122197012_3623825720528076800_n — Tripti walking along the Bhaba Khud.

We walked on the dirt track meant for vehicles going to and fro for the construction work, that finally gave way to the narrow trail climbing up to the forest. The sun was harsh and a mini truck passing by tempted us to hitchhike till the trail..As always I hopped onto the open load compartment, trying not to fall while standing whilst watching a trolley transporting cement sacks and stones from the other side towards our end of the mountains.

70490325_1750892878377773_5243396972328517632_n — You see a man in that ice cave down below?

A landslide trail marked the starting point of our hike. The river was still on our left with glacial mountains hanging over it. Dense trees hugged the slushy trails and the initial climb was steep. As we trotted along ahead, the river was on our right now and men working at the tunnel appeared like tiny specks on ice.

69518718_427851097835826_8685513312441466880_n — Finally on the trail! Leaving Bhaba Khud behind

A rocky path lead us to a grassland where a stone wall adorned the space with one or two huts inside. Heavy wooden planks were strewn around. We climbed along the huts and the trail lead to an open grassland with boulders scattered everywhere. The sun even though scorching, now felt comforting for the air was a tad colder. 600 metres ahead, lofty Deodar trees greeted us making another short forest trail. Bhaba valley trek had this peculiar pattern of trails. You’d walk through forests opening up to huge open meadows, hike down to negotiate some glacial streams which would again lead you to forests! Also the trails are pretty well defined ( atleast till Kara) and from Mulling onwards I and my friend Tripti did the hike all by ourselves with our Sherpa Dog Blacky who turned out to be a million times more reliable than our guide! But a word of caution here, Bhaba Valley is infamous for its wild bears and animals and one should rather try avoiding solo hikes.

70322785_382270322469613_3510844179150274560_n — At Champoria, while taking a break!

The river hummed in the background after a long break. As the forest trail lead to a vast open expanse of green carpeted grass with mighty boulders thrown around. Bhaba Khud was on our left now. The valley looked unreal with the green mountains changing its shades from light to dark in nanoseconds as the clouds reflected over them. This location is called Champoria.

I saw a stone wall nearby, A sign of a shepherds hut. While everyone laid around, i decided to go fill my sipper with some chilled spring water. A rather friendly ‘Hello’ echoed in the backdrop. A man, probably in his late 40s adorning a blue jacket, waved at me. ‘Kahaan ja rahe ho aap’? I yelled from a distance ‘KARA!’ He invited me for a cup of tea and I happily obliged. Birmachand was a shepherd from Kalpa, who was here with his wife and sheep. He was feeding his goats with salt for its high nutrients content. He would leave back for Kalpa in October. I asked him if all these sheep belonged to him. He had a certain pride in his tone when he said ‘Hum toh government employee hai’! I told him that my mom belonged to the Kumaon Himalayas and that she too shared the same surname ‘Chand’! A little puzzled he asks me, so papa Chandigarh se hai aur mom Pahaadi! I laughed and explained that it was my husband who’s posted presently at Chandi and that is why Chandi is home. A little more surprised he exclaimed dramatically with a volley of questions ‘Aap shaadi shuda ho?! Aapke husband ne aapko akele aane de diya? Par aapka mangal sutra ya angoothi kahaan hai?” I told him I didn’t like to wear one and how inconvenient it would be to hike around with a chain lashing around your neck! A few more startling conversations and a selfie later, I decided to fall back to join Tripti and the guides.

PS: Shephards in Kinnaur are called Baeraale!

69877743_2402423930078081_3741714309286199296_n — Descending down and now walking along Gyaare Khad!

We were now descending down from the valley, and walking along the Gyaare Khad ( the river). Yet another short forest trail followed up with greenest moss and vibrant yellow flowers thriving in the comforting shades of coniferous jungles. An open grassland ahead awaited us where all of us took a super short break with Tiger ( a handsome Black Husky looking dog) one of the guide’s pet chasing the birds around.Crossing some roaring streams, rocky trails and fairyland like meadows with breathtaking cascades at every bend and corner, Bhaba changed it’s landscapes with every new mile covered.

69369132_1378521355645252_4129016189248602112_n — Negotiating with one out of many streams enroute!

69625270_500329810510956_1996912840610414592_n — Good days are made of mountains and girlfriends!

We reached Mulling, covering the last bit of distance in a heavy downpour. There was a tad bit of steep climb before Mulling, but once we landed on top (The Mulling Meadow also called The Jhandi Top) the trail eased down to a flat path, parallel to the Mulling stream.

69462554_373382900268807_7813763645753524224_n — At Jhandi Top..Another 1.5Km to Mulling Campsite. Look at those ferns!

The mountains were adorned in fresh snow and ferns as high as 5 feet. Our campsite was bang on the river. I won’t be exaggerating if I called this place a heaven incarnate!

69497528_494590421332748_6984145271777132544_n — Tripti teaching Blacky how to shake hands 🙂

The shed at Mulling made by the forest department was occupied by a group of boys from one of the IITs who were leaving for Kara in a bit. While fixing the tent with the guide, I saw a wagtail hovering around the boys, catching biscuits in the air when thrown at her. Meanwhile the clouds decided to put on a show for us, racing over the landscape in magical ways I’d never seen before. I and Tripti sat inside the tent for it started to pour and the winds got gusty. Blacky came and sat down with us, while Tiger ( the guide’s dog) quickly got inside their tent. We tried putting her inside the shed but she would come back running to our tent, sleeping the entire night outside barking intermittently every time she sensed some noise or smell! The rain got worse at night but even that didn’t budge her.

69451222_2433727950206062_5214583466963763200_n — Blacky…Lil More than a Sherpa..A whole lot more than a Dog!

Next morning we unzipped the tent only to be greeted by sunshine and Blacky’s warm face & a wagging tail. While we got ready to leave for Kara, cleaning up and washing our faces at the nearby stream, Blacky would be busy chasing horses, cows and birds around. She ran around like a wild child on her land. This was her home! The rivers, the flower carpeted meadows, the daunting mountains, she knew them in and out!

69408927_455614901703019_4715433178255327232_n — Endless avalanche snow around..on our way to Kara

That morning we left for Kara around 8am, telling our guides to follow us later for they were yet to get ready. We asked him about the route and figured the well defined trail that lead to Kara. Blacky didn’t let us do this on our own. She was our Sherpa of the day. The route to Kara was rather easy and gorgeous beyond words. I, Tripti and Blacky were the only ones hiking around which made it even more beautiful. Array of wildflowers of different colors bloomed throughout the way while just in the beginning we negotiated our way through frozen avalanche snow that almost felt like a glacier. The river had snow walls caved around them and the Mulling valley looked splendid in its emerald green blanket.

70387039_496042364527361_1517517215325224960_n — The only beings around were the cows, horses and birds!

Just before crossing an icy bed over the river to get across on the other side of the valley, a rocky climb with a rather eerie surroundings kind of tested our brave spirits. The trail was laden with huge boulders and the mountain cliffs on our right looked mysterious with eagles gliding on top. Blacky would stop, tilt her neck and stare into the thin air as though she sensed something abnormal! While I and Tripti paused along wondering why the guides had not reached us yet for they walked way faster! But somehow having Blacky around comforted our nerves. One moment she would be quiet, staring at the valley while the very next second, she would see snow and roll herself playfully like a wildflower.

69392937_2398807950403925_3723471951092514816_n — Blacky leading the way!

At this point, after crossing over to the other side of the mountain over a river that flowed under the ice ground ( this phenomenon is also called the SUBTERRANEAN river) we had lost the trail. There were huge rocks and we couldn’t figure out how to climb up. While I was hopping on to a rock, Blacky on the other end moved in an opposite direction, pausing, looking behind at me as though telling me to follow her. She led us to Kara from here on. It had been an hour and a half and our guides were nowhere to be seen! Blacky came to our rescue. As we climbed higher, the rampaging stream furiously flowed down below on our right. Green mountains with snowy peaks shone under the occasional rays of sunlight that peeped out of the heavy veil of clouds.

70455778_679078005941330_4921751364066869248_n — After crossing over to the other side of the valley…What you see is Mulling left far behind.

69655804_2185638871546513_6989177362835308544_n — sprawling blanket of flowers!

And just like that, while following Blacky we reached Kara in no time. The vistas were so spellbinding that one never felt tired. We met this really old shepherd in his 60s coming back from Phutsirang with his convoy of mules. He did this for a living and I couldn’t help but admire his grace and stamina as he walked swiftly with a stick without a slouch!

69623409_2360466604272403_4618442324106543104_n — A lil rendezvous with the highlander!

As we descended down and walked a kilometer ahead, we saw a shimmering body of water reflecting the blue heavens above! A red flag was tied on a pole around it marking the venue..Kara Lake. we were finally there and so were our guides.

69524863_1220894684759789_9198431763062325248_n — Nomads of Himachal!

Blacky gulped down a million sips of water and we finally took our shoes off and laid on the green grass around the lake. The sun was scorching but it never felt so good. This place screamed happiness. Our guide showed us the mountains on the left that led to Futsirang and eventually to Bhaba Pass. I remember watching it on a IndiaInMotion documentary and it looked surreal. He asked me” Chalna hai kya? You can easily hike up to Mudh ( a village in Spiti and the last point of the hike) If only it were that easy!

69322341_830452034015371_3012369982718738432_n — Kara Lake in all its glory!

The weather in valleys is like a woman on her periods! Nasty and forever dealing with mood swings :P. Just now the sun reflected the clouds and mountains on the lake and the very next second, the winds carried along the mist with them. We shifted to a cave where the guys cooked a delicious kinnauri meal. Out of our ten bites every 6 went to Blacky for she filled our hearts with immense gratitude. We decided to head back to Mulling today and camp there for the evening and eventually fall back to Kaafnu the following morning.

69402735_494160134651108_1768431283521716224_n — Kara campsite was gorgeous beyond words! Wish i had the time to go till Mudh though!

While wearing my socks I noticed a dark tan line around my ankle. The colours across it were as stark as the landscapes we saw in one day today!

And while I write this story almost two months later..the tan line is pretty much intact..deeply and strongly etched..just like Bhaba and Blacky in my jar of Kinnaur Memories!

TRAVEL AND STAY INFO ON BHABA VALLEY

Bhaba is a pristine valley, situated in the east of Sutlej river in Kinnaur district. Bhaba Khud that flows along the hike is a tributary of Sutlej. While Kinnaur is about 306Kms from Chandigarh. A small hamlet called Chshora is the gateway to Kinnaur.
For Bhaba one needs to catch any bus going towards Rekong Peo. Incase you are not able to get a direct bus, then get down at Rampur and you would surely get a bus to Waangtu.
Waangtu falls enroute Rekong PEO and is close to Kharcham. The bus will drop you nextto a bridge which has an overview of the Wangtoo Kharcham Hydro Power Plant. ( Chandigarh ISBT Sec43→ Waangtu→Katgaon→Kaafnu)
From here, it would take you another 45mins or so to reach Katgaon and then eventually to Kaafnu. You should preferably stay at Kaafnu for it’ll save you time the following day when you leave for the hike. Kaafnu has a small hotel and some homestays.
We stayed at the electricity rest house in Katgaon and paid 500Rs for a night halt ( no meals)
Bhaba valley is a gateway to Pin Valley in Spiti (east) and leads to Parvati Valley, Kullu (west). The hike is called Pin Bhaba trek for it starts from Kaafnu village in Bhaba and finishes at Mudh Village in Spiti.
The landscapes are phenomenal and ever changing. The campsites on the hikes would be like this
Kafnu(2400amsl)→Mulling(3242amsl)→Kara(3552amsl)→Phutsirang(4107amsl)→ Bhaba Pass(4900amsl)and then to Mangrungse(4168amsl)→Mudh(3744amsl)
The route is given in the story and can help you plan your hike. There’s a well defined trail almost through the entire way. But try avoiding solo hikes for Bhaba is infamous for its wild bears and animals. Its okay to go in a group without a guide.
We paid 3k per day per person but if there’s a bigger group, you could be charged lesser. If you’re into hiking and camping, then you don’t really need a guide here. Take a dog instead ;)PS : we did the hike up to Kara lake only.
Here are some of the guides contacts i found out…Rajdeep Negi 7018572399 Dev Negi 08580410469 Billu Negi 7018799950 Out of all of them Billu Negi is well known amongst the trekkers.
The ideal time to do this hike would be July to September.
Bhaba Valley is a must do and shouldn’t be missed. Please feel free to ping me here or on Instagram if you have any queries regarding the hike.

Swaar/ Swad Village…Where The British Legacy Lingers On!

She adds greener to the greens

She fills drama in the sky

A tad bit of aroma to the earth

And savor to my warm cuppa Chai!!

65485086_2391923004409960_963455971600891904_n — While climbing up to Swaar, leaving lumbadug & lohardi behind

You know who that she’d be! Rains in Himachal have been my forever companion and somehow i love the idea of fleeting clouds prancing around while I climb my much loved mountains. The valley suddenly appears greener and the streams sound even more boisterous,adding colors and vigour to the afternoon! After getting back from my hike to Puling/Poling village and Pashakot Mandir( read the previous blogpost) and having a hearty lunch thereafter, i decided to hike up to Swar/Swad Village. It had started to rain yet again and a hike all by myself to this dreamy hamlet was something i’d been wanting to do ever since I got here in Lohardi!

Lohardi mela at its best : A snake charmer weaving his magic over a spellbound audience

It was 4 PM and by now the Lohardi Mela was in its full swing. Countless eating and game stalls adorned the village alleys while men like snake charmers and monkey tricks caught everyone’s attention. While crossing the main bridge over Lamba Dug in Lohardi, I saw a huge group of people gathered around with this snake charmer in the middle, entertaining everyone with his beautiful reptiles displaying their antics! I somehow made way through them and a little ahead found this guy who didn’t look like a local, sitting at a bend with his three monkeys and a local guy chatting with him! The Monkey guy turned out to be from Delhi who had come all the way to Himachal for Lohardi Mela to show his monkeys around and indulge in some sinful pleasure ( read smoking up weed)! I saw him preparing his smoke and out of curiosity asked him like a naive child, ‘Bhaiya aap kya bana rahe ho?’ to which he said ‘madam maal hai!’ What world was this again! I sat down for a bit watching his monkeys follow his instructions and behaving like humans! I left a 10Rs note which the male monkey quickly picked up and bowed his head to say Thank You!

Left a little amused by the monkey guy, I carried on with my hike, leaving Lamba Dug farther behind and the Mela hustle bustle of Lohardi fading into oblivion. The road to Swaar was kaccha(unpaved) and the rains had made it a tad bit slushy. The air got cooler and soothed my nerves. A huge boulder lay on the right side of the track, looking down upon Lamba Dug and Lohardi and surrounding villages. I decided to lie down here for a bit with my headphones on and my current read in my hands “Into Thin Air!” All those moments of yearning for peace and tranquility, turned out just how I imagined, right here at this moment! One of the village school girls passed by, staring at me, wondering what I was up to lying down on the green velvet grass in the middle of nowhere! I simply smiled and let her judge me for if there’s one thing that the mountains have taught me is to let my guards down! I wish it was this easy back in my city too! Phew!

I decided to walk further for the sky turned only greyer! Somehow this lesser walked track took me back to Pajekha village that I hiked up to in Haa Valley in Bhutan. Every time i’m in the Dhauladhars or Himalayas, there’s always some Dejavu moment reaffirming my faith in the homogeneity of these giants for no matter where they stand, their tribes and the euphoria they create is the same old…same old!

While almost nearing the village, I encountered my deepest fear! A trail washed away by landslide! A massive tree had fallen off and huge boulders were strewn around. A super narrow trail went over the boulders ( made out of villagers walking over it…wait not walking..they run over it) while I planned to take baby steps with my legs trembling for a little left or right and i’d slide down into the stream joining the Lamba Dug. If there’s one fear that I haven’t been able to battle all this while in the mountains, it would be Acrophobia! I CANNOT look down for my head spins and my legs tend to tremble, faltering around like an electrocuted frog! The thought of heading back cropped up in my head, but the desire to check out Swaar was even stronger! So i put my headphones inside my pocket, started muttering Hanuman Chalisa and with over dramatic Ooohhh and Aaaaahs managed to cross over! Sweet Triumph! Though I was already worried about heading back the same way 😀

Just when I was entering the village, a young man asked me where I was off to. I told him I had come to check Swad. He asked me if I were all alone. I asked him why? He said simply…and that it was going to pour any moment and that i must head back soon! A little more conversation later I learnt that he was a teacher in a primary school in Swad and was going down to Lohardi to see the mela. I asked him for the directions for the Forest Rest House in Swad that exists since the British Times and told him that i’d see him later at Lohardi Mela. The village school stood right there at the entrance of the village and a turquoise green colored hut with a rather different architecture stood out in the background!

Turquoise wooden walls with white framed windows and a slanting roof, a tad bit British and somewhat Scandinavian in architecture, the Forest Rest House stood there like the sentinels of time while snow clad Dhauladhars loomed across in the backdrop. A certain familiar sound of bird echoed in this unusually quiet village. I saw an old man and a lady working on the outside lawn in the rest house cottage. I opened the gate and asked him if i could enter and speak with him for a bit. He smiled and let me in!

Vegetables and flowers were arrayed outside in the huge lawn and apparently the fresh organic veggies were plucked and cooked right there in the kitchen. The old man, Mr Pradeep was the caretaker of the rest house and showed me around. The rooms were huge with a British era fireplace though it was kind of dark inside but this rest house in this quaint little village with snow mountains hugging it on either side, came across as one of those huts from snow white in deep dark fairy woods! ( not exaggerating one bit). Mr Pradeep was so good for my ego as he thought that I was a college girl who was here on a trip with friends. He later told me that i should get The Husband along on my next trip and gave me his number even though the rooms are to be booked through forest department in Palampur. But he did mention that if the rooms are vacant and there are no previous bookings, he does allow visitors to stay in such cases.

And while I was earlier keen on checking out the Lohardi Mela, my loyalties changed to Swaar instantly, a part of me wanting to stay back here for the evening. But i had to head back to my homestay for it was almost dark and the rains didn’t look so forgiving!

I got back to Lohardi an hour later, all drenched, bumping into the same school teacher from Swaar and gobbling down some piping hot jalebis from one of the Mela stalls. I decided to meet the village sarpanch who sat on a big sofa, arranged on the stage for the evening function. He told me how the mela lasted for three days and started almost 35 years back by one of the village school headmaster. It was intentionally kept in the month of May for everyone would get back after the winter break and it was a reunion of sorts! Later it went on to become famous not only in Barot and Mandi but people from Kullu also come and attend the function. The rains were still on but somehow it didn’t deter people from coming out and enjoy the mela.

Colored threads being weaved at one of the shops in the market

This was my last evening here and i somehow just wanted to sit by the river and revel in its symphony. I bade goodbye to the stall owners and walked back to my balcony where I loved sitting while i was in my room! Last day in the mountains is never easy!

The last evening while walking on the rain kissed streets

I walked the rain kissed streets of this Himalayan village

A part of me completely drenched

If only i could stow this day for good

In the grasp of my fingers, as my wrists i so tightly clenched!

TRAVEL/ STAY INFO ON SWAAR/SWAD VILLAGE

Swaar is a quaint little village located on top of Lohardi.
One can easily hike up to the village in 45mins time as its just 3 to 4kms away.
The village has around 40 to 50 houses and a Primary Sec School
Famous for its British era Forest Rest House, it makes a perfect getaway in Barot Valley.
The rooms have to be booked in advance though from the forest department office in Palampur.
Mr Pradeep is the caretaker and his contact number is 9459146647
There are no homestays available in this village but one can stay in Lohardi.
Thakur Ji Homestay in Lohardi is bang on the Lamba Dug river and offers some spectacular views.
Contact Details of Shyam Thakur…9418770108
Cemented steps on the right at the village enterance leads you to Chena Village.

Mountain Stories from Puling!

I woke up around 6:30 AM to Shyam knocking at my door with a piping hot glass of tea. Groggily i wished him Good Morning when he told me to get out on the balcony and look around for the early morning magic! The mountains looming across the balcony had turned white overnight. It rained heavily but since Lamba Dug bickered so loud, everything around seemed to go mute! The streets were all glistening due to early morning drizzle and the sky was still packing up. My agenda for the day was to explore the villages on top. Swar Puling and Bhujling! ( how many ever i could explore)

62091946_372601176719163_5066599058815057920_n — The early morning calm at Lohardi

Shyam asked me if i were going to be ok hiking alone? Finding it rather lame, I retorted “Of Course”! After beating around the bush he finally came to the point. ‘Akanksha Madam, why don’t you go along with these three men( my new neighbors who arrived the previous night) since they have a vehicle too. You can go up to Chena village and thereafter to Pulling and then further ahead to this hidden temple in the mountains where only Papa can take you all. He too is tagging along with them!” For me hiking has always been an experience of solitude. I wasn’t sure of doing it with these strangers with whom my last night conversation didn’t go so well’! But the rains outside kind of enticed me to give in to this kind offer and I was tempted to hike along with Uncle and listen to his stories from his Bakkarwal (Shephard) Days. While the other three men had an old officer from the state revenue and tax services, a lower rank official and a young driver. All three hailed from different parts of Himachal.I had met them the previous night and found one of them a little too social or friendly for my liking. He offered me to join them to sip on some locally brewed wine to which I politely declined! They had a big influence over the villagers for the locals who run their shops without authentic official documents were intimidated by their power and authority. Thinking of the power they had, i asked them if they could exercise a strict law in the village when it came to discarding waste and garbage for there were many who dumped it in the river right in front of me. With the power plant coming up at Lamba Dug, the river and the surrounding area had started to experience the consequences already and I feared this jewel losing its sanctity because of human greed and recklessness. I wasn’t given a very affirmative response!

62432912_305659877042907_5961486753708638208_n — While hiking up to Puling…Lamba Dug flowing with all her exuberance!

We set out after breakfast for Chena Village as the men whom I was accompanying had work at the Power Plant Project. A massive tunnel was being made to divert the water from Lamba Dug to generate electricity. I decided to tag along the men instead of waiting in the car, to find out more about the upcoming power plant. I was zapped to learn that the project was sanctioned in 2006 and some 19 crores were invested while the project is still under construction in 2019 and almost 35 crores have already been spent! The electricity generated from here would be for export use and not for the state, for Himachal is pretty wealthy when it comes to its own resources! But Lamba Dug won’t be half as hearty as it is now and the towers and cables have had their own effects on the flora and fauna around. With the advances in technology and the increase of human needs, comes a heavy price that’s paid by nature! It just didn’t feel right!

62226054_371864713465393_3071030057636986880_n — First Look At Puling!

While the road to Pulling was washed out at few bends, we decided to hike up to the village and then further ahead to the Pashakot Temple ( the last inhabited area in this part of Chota Bhanghal). While two of them sulked, I uttered ‘Thank You God” in my head! I know not everyone would agree with me on this but hiking in the rain in the mountains is just so hypnotic! We walked along the brimming river, crossing a bridge to get on the other side, to Pulling. The track was slushy but i loved the fleeting clouds that hovered around, making it pleasant to hike up. Pulling village houses almost 80 homes with mostly traditional architecture unlike Lohardi. The village even has a primary and secondary school. Most of the houses had a mandir in their courtyard with stacks of wood stocked up for later use, while mountain goats loitered around.This hamlet like most of the others too seemed to be influenced by the caste system. I asked Uncle if there was any demarcation of the area with respect to caste. He whispered softly and told me how the upper lanes in the village were inhabited by the higher castes ie The Rajputs and the lower lanes by the Scheduled Castes. My reaction was a tad bit less dramatic for this wasn’t the first time i’d heard something like this on my trip to Himachal.

64281536_499816564175276_6434270418575556608_n — An old man smiling when asked to pose for the picture!

62102993_1132186323647911_1897515769688752128_n — A mountain goat resting on a bench at her veranda!

While walking through the village lanes, i came across my favorite auntie from yesterday who was collecting fodder at Lohardi. She was carrying some wood on her head and walking towards us just when i screamed Hi with full exuberance. She smiled at me, looked down and just passed by in a rush. It took me awhile to understand why she wouldn’t recognize me! A little later I realized, perhaps it was the company of Thakurs that i was walking in! Though Uncle seemed really kind but the villagers are so loyal to their belief that the so called lower caste would himself won’t try to mingle around with the higher one. I walked ahead, feeling confused and pondering over the age old beliefs that were beyond my comprehension. Little did i know, some minutes later, there was some more in store for me!

62090508_461903917892677_5858527900768141312_n — Bhujling as seen from Puling!

We had now left the habitation behind and Lamba Dug hurried along with us, flowing on our left now. The rain had almost stopped and the clouds gently lifted up off the snowy peaks. One could see fire billowing out of a lone hut on the mountain on the other side of the river while tiny white dots specked the green patches. Uncle told me ‘You see, the bakkarwaal there is cooking his lunch and the tiny white dots were the white sheep grazing around” Uncle himself was a shepherd for almost 15 years and he humored me with his tales from then…how he would sell one goat for almost 20k and how he has lived in wilderness in Bada Banghal or even Danasur lake. We bumped into a woman who was looking for a goat. Uncle and her blabbered something in Himachali. I later got to know that she was looking for a goat to be offered as a giving at one of the temples! I wish I could show that woman the articles and videos that lead me to turn into a vegetarian this year! I cringed at the thought of the innocent animal being beheaded to please the local deity! But i guess somethings are best not questioned!

61959662_2412792719007170_4610575919705227264_n — These women walking in the forests to get wood for the evening!

We were now bang on Lamba Dug. One or two shacks stood in the middle of nowhere. Uncle told me how women stayed in those to watch their crops from wild animals or monkeys! Just when i was thinking of how these hamlets are still in the grip of old age unpragmatic norms, this kind of made me smile! Women in the mountains are always so inspiring. Leading the way, fearless and independent. People who glorify female solo traveling should come see how things work here.

I was famished and Lamba Dug decided to be my savior.

62441513_2303863303185901_7469045919854362624_n — While sipping on some water from Lamba Dug, Uncle decides to strike a pose!

She quenched my thirst and gave that kick to climb the last bit of the uphill. Just when you hit the bridge, a trail goes right which leads to Danasur lake and the Bada Banghal region.We crossed the bridge and took a trail on the left to Pashakot. On our way i helped uncle plucking Lingdu for tonight’s dinner. After climbing some more slushy steps, we reached a meadow facing the snow clad mountains that boasts of bordering the Kullu Valley. Sitting there a few steps away from the temple, Uncle shared the folklore about Pashakot Temple.

62388199_390445958481567_2508637483596513280_n — Plucking Lingdu for dinner!

The local deity Pashakot was actually regarded to be The God Of Bakkarwals or Shepherds. Pashu means animals and i’m guessing hence the name Pashakot! There was once a shepherd who lost one of his goats. He looked for it everywhere but was unable to find. Few days later he’d find her, shot up, ten times her size and there were days when he’d find her to be as small as a lamb. One day he walked up to the local deity and prayed to get his goat back, eventually leading to his wish getting fulfilled. The locals have deep rooted faith in the deity and many come walking from different parts of Himachal to give their offerings. Uncle gave his own example when Shyam was to get married and the rains played havoc the entire week. There were no signs of the weather becoming better and Uncle along with his family prayed at the temple and offered two goats for the same. The very next day the sun showed up until the wedding was done!

60881685_2312073559007964_4498102099296387072_n — After rwaching the meadow near the temple! Uncle in deep thoughts!

Guess what, it had stopped raining by now and the sun showed up again! I told Uncle, ‘ Pashakot Devta has been listening to your wish even today eh”!!

62092144_1045357499004631_2122516131229990912_n — Of Their Vs My Faith!

While taking my shoes off ( in order to enter the temple), the young driver murmured…’Ma’am Uncle is saying, ladies aren’t allowed inside’!! Did I just hear that right! I couldn’t have trekked up all that distance to just stand at the door and watch these three men sit inside while I stood outside like an outcast! Meanwhile Uncle trying to avoid eye contact ( as though the ritual was his brainchild) I told them, with no iota of fear of being judged…:” Arey par mere date nahi hai abhi…I am not chumming”! Uncle clearly wasn’t comfortable on hearing that but somehow managed to tell me..’ Beta, Pashakot Devta is a brahmachari ( bachelor) therefore women are not allowed in his temple’! I retorted but only in my head this time “ But HanumanJi is a brahmachari too’!!

I didn’t want to argue..It was their belief..their deep rooted faith..I was an outsider visiting their village for just two days! Plus it was funny that i was fighting to get inside the temple! I, who rarely visits religious institutions! Why did i seem to care so much! Uncle told me to burn an incense stick and give it to him so that he could offer it on my behalf! I sat outside reflecting on this just when i saw two local couples sitting on the outside meadow, offering prayers and placing their incense sticks on a rock nearby!

62368930_343486346333746_250138281138716672_n — The two couples praying outside on the meadow!

Just when they were leaving, Uncle told them ‘ Wait up! Take some prasad and go!’ He walked up to them and distributed sweets to all four and they walked away! Finding this abnormal again, i asked the driver this time “ I understand those two women not coming inside, but why did the guys not get in the temple?” He whispered ‘ They are scheduled castes!’ This time around, the dramatic expression of WTF couldn’t help but show on my face”! Sadly the faith is so strong that sometimes even when the so called higher castes want to let them in, the SC’s themselves decline for the fear of being punished by the deity. In my heart, I quietly thanked Hanuman, the only God I am loyal to for being a tad bit reasonable or at least the rishi or devta who made us believe so!

62315675_304784483796190_2273487719197835264_n — Pashakot Devta and the incense sticks of us lesser mortals!

It was an astonishing coincidence that it started pouring the moment we reached the homestay and while we justtt started hiking, the rain had sobered to a slight drizzle in the morning to eventually wearing off and all that while we trekked, it remained so pleasant! While to some like me it was nothing more than the unpredictable erratic weather of Himachal for i were used to it by now but for many like Uncle, it was the magical powers of Pashakot Devta!

62037793_595327464285649_850895637665808384_n — Vistas Like These! Chota Banghal in all its glory!

Well, whatever it might have been, the weather gods displaying their kindness or the local deity exercising his magical powers, in the end what mattered was the serene rains, soothing our frazzled nerves and the steaming hot cup of soup with spicy momos in this hamlet that was hustling with all the Mela vibes! Lohardi Mela had just begun and we probably were the first ones to inaugurate this eating stall!

I bade goodbye to the three men who gave me company for the hike and decided to take an umbrella and hike up to Swad Village. I hate the idea of going back to the room while i’m in the mountains. Romancing the village alleys and hopping from one hamlet to another has always been the agenda! And so I set out for Swad!

That beautiful hike in the rain all by myself deserves another post! So until next week 🙂

TRAVEL TIPS TO PULING

64210855_438943320220510_4831717111397089280_n — While heading back home!

Puling is a small village, some four kms ahead of Lohardi. There is an untarred road that goes up till the village but was blocked due to landslides during my trip. Nonetheless a short hike up from Lohardi to Puling is worth it.
Puling has almost 80 to 100 houses and a primary school as well. There are no homestays available here.
The village is at a height and is also the gateway to Chhota Bhangal region that leads to hikes like Danasur Lake and Bada Bhangal trek. These are long treks that can be done over 3 to 4 days.
A hike up to Pashakot Temple makes a good day hike. The views around the temple are simply breathtaking. Once you cross the village, keep walking along the river ( river would be on your left hand side) until you see a bridge. A well defined trail that goes on the right, just when you hit the bridge, takes you further up to Danasur Lake and Bada Banghal region.
While after crossing the bridge, there’s a small trail going on left, climbing up to a meadow. That’s where you’d find the temple.
One can hike up from Lohardi to Swar to Chena to Bhujling and end up in Puling thereafter for a wholesome experience.
Homestay at Lohardi…ThakurJi Homestay 9418770108
While I have mentioned about my personal experiences with locals about their beliefs regarding the caste and religion, it would be unfair to judge them or the place in a negative light. Each and every person I met was extremely warm and helpful and the societal vices that I’ve talked about don’t only exist in this area but the majority of the places in Himachal and Uttarakhand and of course many more places in India. I have only shared my story without any filters but it doesn’t change the fact that i as a solo traveler felt the safest in bus, village, during hikes or anywhere during my trip! There are times when you have to let go of certain things and look beyond things that we cannot relate to for we all come from different backgrounds!

SOLO BACKPACKING TO HIMACHAL’S HIDDEN GEM….LOHARDI

How does one define offbeat? Cut off from the world? No network? Places that can be reached only on foot? And wellll, how could you miss out the criteria that tops everyone’s list these days…The least number of hashtags on Instagram!!

60890608_2108956865883779_575484703805538304_n — Good days are made of Mountains and my pen and diary!

May! The month of sweltering heat was here! The boy was away on the call of duty and I! I like forever was itching to pack my bags for a couple of days and explore my current favorite state…Himachal! And so the map was out, the routes were read and re read a countless times to beat my nervousness. I was doing a solo trip after the longest time and to a place that had no coverage! I wanted to be sure of things before i landed at the disconnected world! And then along with the map of Himachal, my travel partner, My Diary was out where i scribble all my Pre Trip Notes and On Trip notes! Call me old school, but somehow maintaining google docs is so mainstream 😛 . I’d still prefer doing diary entries! Probably it fits in well with the whole idea of the mountains, the streams meandering by and me sitting on the velvet grass, documenting my tales with my ink pen on the pages that id love to read later in life! Somehow the unadulterated inked words have so much more magic in them than the ones typed in here!

While my plan started with hiking up to Rajgundha and Kukkargundha Valleys, it surely evolved with time. I gradually shifted my itinerary to Barot Valley as well. While reading on Barot, I realized it’s been long since it became a tourist attraction! Though gorgeous with her Uhl river flowing with white daisies blooming around, the concrete mass kind of repelled me! Nonetheless Barot was rich in history and splendor but the idea was to explore it in a day while i stayed in a village close by, devoid of tourists and hotels! And that’s how Lohardi happened to me!

60756075_406671716593953_2004234355395788800_n — Rains and Mountains…The lil hamlet of Lohardi!

While Barot falls in Mandi, Lohardi, the last motor able village, 6kms ahead of Barot takes pride in being a part of the mystical Kangra Valley. Lohardi has three more villages ahead, thereafter making a boundary for the Chota Bnaghal and Kullu region! Finding home stays here wasn’t easy! I saw just one blog on Barot while a couple of Vlogs on Youtube but no one mentioned any details of the stay! I called up random homestay owners at Barot who’s number was available online( such a stalker)! Most of them were kind enough to help me with contacts in Lohardi! After speaking to three of them, i went for the cheapest one…Thakur Ji Homestay.( strict budget trip goals!) Remember…The more you save, the longer’s your vacation)

I was told to catch a direct bus to JoginderNagar. Early that morning at 6AM, while sitting at the hustling ISBT, i would only find buses to Mandi. There were volvos going to Baijnath but i wanted to board a state transport for somehow i didn’t feel motion sick traveling in it and its any day more feasible! I caught the earliest Mandi bus and grabbed a seat next to this Himachali girl.The early morning lull was suddenly broken by the Sardarjis fighting over the seats! I’d hear one say’ Pehla Seat ahh…Pehla Hakka..ahhh’ while the other one flaunted his ticket and told this man to get out! My groginess took a backseat and I quickly checked my wallet for the ticket before i’d be thrown out too! A thing to note here would be that always buy your tickets before getting into the bus to make sure you get good seats plus the one with a ticket already would obviously be given a preference.

The sky was packing up! It looked like yet another rainy affair with Himachal! 7th trip in the last one year and what’s remained constant on all my trips is The Rains! Lumineers sang ‘Stubborn Child’ on the headphones and my seatmate humored me other times! She was a young girl from the rural parts of Banjaar in Kullu Valley, studying optometry in Chandigarh! I was elated to know another young village girl, getting out of her restricted village life and trying to make herself independent and self sufficient!

Couple of hours later, i was at the Mandi Bus Stand. I asked the locals standing there if there were buses that ply from here to Ghattasani. The Old man burst out laughing! Clearly i sounded like a foreigner when i pronounced Ghattasani as Ghatsenii! He was kind to direct me towards the bus going to Kangra and Palampur. The bus was half empty and i could easily fetch a seat. The engine along with my hungry stomach roared and grumbled as it took to the road to Ghattasani. I got down on the main route where the road bifurcates for Barot. The bus went ahead to Palampur. While waiting at the Ghattasani market for the bus to Lohardi, i grabbed a bite at a local shop just when a woman threw up beside me in the other bus! I kind of lost my appetite and remembered those horrible days when i too suffered from motion sickness! Probabaly the last three years of my relationship with the mountains has helped me get out of the cruel grip of mountain sickness.( I almost collapsed at Guru Dongmar Lake in 2010 for i puked out everything possible in my body) And here i am today with HRTC almost becoming my second home!

61116075_882143065471288_1987778179611230208_n — The golden Jwaar fields spammed the landscape

The bus to Lohardi was jam packed and i was pleasantly surprised when a very kind villager named Roshan offered me his seat. I insisted he continues sitting and that i was fine standing! But he wouldn’t listen and told me that he’d be getting down in another half an hour at Jhatingiri. He had an American accompanying him, who because of his white skin and green eyes gained a lot of attention from the young local girl students travelling in bus!. On asking Roshan about his village, i got to know that he hailed from Phuladhar and that he owned a camping place on a mountain top. He showed me the pictures of his place and it was no less than heaven incarnate. We exchanged our numbers and i told him that i’d try dropping by on my way back home!

The road slowly changed to lesser traffic and the landscape turned golden with boundless Jawaar fields and the bickering Uhl river meandering by. I was now sharing my seat with one old uncle and a jovial old auntie. For couple of minutes, i was interrogated with most of the queries being about ‘why i traveled alone and why my husband wasn’t tagging along with me ( literally giving me the vibe as though i came running away from home after a quarrel with my bitter half :D)

60989855_333666600651152_5146379429252956160_n — countless neon terrace fields!

While both Uncle and Auntie were veryyy kind to me, i couldn’t help but fall in love with Auntie’s infectious smile and her stunning traditional silver necklace. It looked straight out of Fab India Jewelry brochure! Now we know where these brands find their inspiration!

60862936_435990713616084_3128106792861564928_n — This old lady and her silver necklace! fell in love with both of them!

The landscape got only more surreal as we closed towards Lohardi. A bunch of women and school students got into the bus from Barot. This was the last bus and probably the best ride ever! Even though we all sat huddled around, cramped up with two massive school bags on my lap, the sudden euphony created by the village women, singing Himachali folk songs in chorus made everyone forget their misery! The calm Uhl was now replaced by the much more furious Lamba Dug and a deserted track lead to the lesser known hamlets of Chota Banghal. We finally arrived at Lohardi around 5ish.

60506454_601163040378968_4484096271073673216_n — The stream…cosway from where the steps go up to Kharimalhan

The entry to the village was over a gushing co-sway,with endless cacophony of streams around. The village had a peculiar festive vibe on and i got to learn of the upcoming Lohardi Mela! Now this trip wasn’t quite planned by me,but seemed to be falling in place for it turned out to be even prettier than i’d imagined, the live folk music in the HRTC bus that id never heard before and the Mela starting the very next day…The Mountain Gods sure were planning it all for me eh!

I met Shyam Bhaiya at the makeshift bus stop of the village. He could easily identify me for i was the only outsider in the crowd. We walked to the homestay which was a few steps away, right in the center of the market! At first he came across as a simple timid young man but we eventually bonded well. The homestay was bang on the Lamba Dug,with freshly snow kissed Dhauladhars looming right across the balcony. I was home finally, disconnected from my other world. The world of chaos, of my mobile buzzing every now and then, of compulsive Instagramming and networking. Nonetheless i missed my wagtails! Sigh!

60759881_398859394298192_5742111296086605824_n — Chai with a view!

After savoring a cup of tea with Shyam, i decided to go explore the village before the sun made its way to the other side of the globe. I walked towards the gushing cos way that we crossed while entering the village. A flight of huge cemented never ending steps seemed to go up on the left. I was curious where it lead and decided to go hiking up. Last bit of bright red Rhododendrons bloomed around and in a few minutes, the village stared back at me down below from the valley. The Lambadug curved and bent across Lohardi, further going up towards Bhujling and other interiors of Chota Bhangal. The steps were plenty and the sun was in a rush. I found an apple orchard and a tiny green meadow along this farm. It called me out and I laid there, without being wary of being seen by anyone. The sun turned the sky orange and all i heard was the Lamba Dug blabbering at a distance, the clouds lifting their heavy veil over the Dhauladhars and the snow glistening in the last rays of the sun.

60968278_2366135310290758_2097813326179336192_n — Leaving Lohardi behind!

The steps finally concluded at the Kharimalahn Village famous for its Narayan Mandir. Karimalhan has its twin village on the other side of the river ( while you take a left from the bridge while starting the hike, for Anderli Malhan one takes a right. The village stands famous for its yearly religious procession of Devtas. The local Pandits come perform some rituals amidst the loud banter of drums and pipes. A couple of villagers, mostly women stand in the center and hysterically move their bodies as though possessed with some demons! When i was told this by the villagers i kind of laughed it off and thought of talking about it in length with my hosts once back at the homestay.

60784938_346492759344500_3654807776355418112_n — Kharimalhan!

On my way back to Lohardi, i met these three beautiful souls, all from three different villages…Polling, Kharimalahn and Anderlimalhan. All of them adorned a warm contagious smile and talked to me like i were a part of their own tribe. Also i could clearly tell, one out of them was from the so called High Caste( The Rajputs) and my favorite was from the much looked down upon schedule caste! She collected fodder for her cattle with this hugeee wooden makeshift tongs kind of equipment! She effortlessly picked up crazy amount of grass and carried it for almost 4kms till her village, with me giving her company till Lohardi. She kind of suddenly fell quiet when my Homestay was around and i wonder if it was due to the fact that i was living with Thakurs! She invited me for some trout in dinner. I told her i’d look her up some other time while hiking up to Polling.

60798904_2325668720809443_5885835783872446464_n — The wrinkled smile!

61069286_389045015032287_2463591299660382208_n — My favorite Auntie from Puling!

60886063_425902721295909_8879851812262248448_n — Auntie from Kharimalhan!

Shyam bhaiya, sat in his shop editing one of the wedding videos. Though everyone in the village knew each other, Shyam was a little more popular for he helped people with their money transactions in PNB and he of course was the sole photo and videographer in the village. His latest coverage of a local wedding and a religious procession looked right out of the 90s Bollywood movies with loud music mismatched with the over zoomed faces! Says the technologically backward me!! I asked him if he had the coverage of the Anderlimalhan religious function that happened every year in Feb and August. And the procession did look like every bit of what i’d heard. I asked Thakur Uncle( Shyams dad) “ Uncle ye ladies fake acting kar rahein hai na”? It was a genuine reaction that came out without thinking twice( i need to learn the art of putting filters). Uncle’s eyes opened up wide and he quipped “ Nahi beta! Ye sach mein hota hai! Inke andar devi maa prakat hoti hai”! Shyam added weight to his justification by showing me the man in that video who made strange noises! They then went on to tell me about this another man who lived in Kullu, whose daughter had been sick for months and no doctor could help her and how his crops and apples were all infested and he suffered a massive loss. When he got to know of his roots being from Kangra, the local priest told him to attend this Devi Maa Puja in August which changed everything for good! He’s been attending this procession every year since then. I could see their eyes gleam while they talked about their local deities. I was zapped at their immense dedication when i saw how the entire village would trek up to Lolar, ahead of Bhujling ( the last village) and reconstructed the entire Ajiapal Mandir in just one day. All the men of the seven villages carried humongous logs of wood and machines that would help them resurrect the temple in less than 24 hours. Meanwhile a man from one of the villages even suffered a heart attack but that didn’t stop the others from constructing their concrete symbol of faith.

61180748_730826023986503_6572693177256378368_n — Lambadug….while taking an evening walk in the village

Similarly, a high altitude mountain lake called Dinosaur Lake is said to have a hugeeee religious significance and is mostly trekked up to by locals who haven’t been able to conceive.

61121959_638609559883831_3388746260449067008_n — The Rhododendron Flower Chutney! it was absolutely yum!

Later that night while listening to Lamba Dug hum her own tunes, i pondered over the conversations on faith, how these folks had tremendous amount of faith in their creators and how most of the social gatherings were based on a religious foundation. And i just uttered ‘Thank You’ Lord Hanuman, the only God i’m loyal to! Thank You for being so kind for i never go out of my way to express my faith or gratitude and I’d like to believe that he understands!

Well my faith in my favorite God only grew stronger when the next day i encountered a funny tryst ( or not) with a local deity, Pashkot Devta and the belief he’s said to have!

To Be Contd ( Sward and Polling Village stories to follow up soon)

61029610_276500853137864_480582075640971264_n — The Routes for higher passes around Lohardi

TIPS TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TO LOHARDI

While Lohardi is only 6kms ahead of Barot, but the two fall in separate districts and valleys. Barot is a part of Mandi while Lohardi falls in Kangra region.
The most feasible means of transport is the HRTC or any local bus that plys from Delhi or Chandigarh towards Mandi or Jogindernagar.
I caught a bus to Mandi from Chandigarh ISBT 43. Any bus that goes to Kullu Manali would stop at Mandi. From Mnadi onwards, one needs to board a bus that is Kngra bound. Which means you board a bus that goes towards Baijnath, Jogindernagar, Palampur, Billing etc. You need to get down at Ghattasani ( the bifurcation on the maain road)
The bus from Mandi shall take an hour and a half to reach Ghattasani. From Ghattasani there are two or three buses that go directly to Lohardi. One in the morning around 8ish i think and other that i caught, around 2;45PM if i remember clearly.
If you dont get a direct bus to Lohardi, get on the one that goes to Barot and then catch a bus from Barot or a shared cab!
The total amount i spent on traveling one way from Chandigarh to Lohardi is Rs 450…Chandigarh to Mandi. Mandi to Ghattasani. Ghattasani to Lohardi.
I was looking for a budget homestay and Thakur Ji Homestay fitted my criteria. The hosts are extremely warm and helpful. Shyam even took me around and charged me nominal rates for guiding me around the trails/hikes. The room tariff is Rs 600 while they would charge 60 or 70 Rs for a good home cooked meal.
The homestay is bang in the Lumba Dug river and has amazing views of the Dhauladhar as well. Also since its located right in the middle of the tiny market, things are readily available.
Shyams Contact Number…09418770108
Other than BSNL no other sim works here. BSNL too stands true to its name here most of the times…BHAI SAHAB NAI LAGTA!!
Other homestays available there are…Anand Homestay 7807408918…Monty Homestay 9459581485, Vandana Homestay 9736009245
The nearest ATM available here would be in Barot.
The direct bus to Mandi leaves at 6;15AM from here in the morning.

61421299_1051646185020962_7147788039765360640_n — Selfies aint my thing but what option do you have while traveling solo!

Things to do in Lohardi….

Lohardi Mela is organised by the villagers in Mid May where in a lot of people come from other parts of Himachal as well. It’s a four day celebration. Details about the Mela will be given on the next blogpost!
One can hike up to nearby villages, Kharimalhan, Sward, Chena, Polling and Bhujling.
If you have enough days with you, two high altitude treks can be done…Bada Banghal Pass ( 5 days) and Dinosaur Lake ( 2 days) These open up only by end of June or first week of July.
A short day trek to Pashkot Temple via Polling village can be done which falls in the last area of Chota Bhangal.
Another trek goes up to the Sarinalha Pass that connects this side to Kullu.

HAPPILY NOMADIC….The Wellington Chapter!

While we generally get to know of our next destination just about a month or two in advance….Wellington was an exception!! This time around I knew six months beforehand that we were headed to the Blue Mountains..The Nilgiris!

I remember when the boy called me up three years back…before moving out to Bhutan…he excitedly yelled over the phone ‘start packingggg…we’re moving to Haa!’

Haa!!!? Was that a bewildered exclamatory reaction or a PROPER NOUN!! I googled the entire night though there wasn’t much given on it and it took me six months to make it my home…and once I did ,there was no looking back….but here in our Ullusthan aka Wellington I didn’t have the luxury of time…for all I had were eleven months…I didn’t have the time to dislike and then develop feelings for the new place..i had no time to waste months, for before I knew our tenure was already over…11 months just zoomed by! Sigh! Why I’m writing this is because if you too are hung over your previous place(because of good friendships or life or whatever reason might be)) drop that off right now…it’s only when you’ve moved out of this heaven of a place you’d realize what a fool you’d been wasting away your time, sulking or getting to like this one! There are definitely lots of hang-ups…water crisis..no help..hubsters away for long hours Butttt Hey! You’re in for the best 10 months and 21 days.. to be super precise:P

YOUR GUIDE TO MAKING MOST OF ULLUSTAN!!

22687871_10156426930436789_7502508074566200402_n — 10 months of bliss in this lil haven!

So let’s begin with making an itinerary …here’s the list of places things and people that complete the picture of W in my head at least! I would have missed out on lots…do enlighten, if you get to explore more places! I have listed these as the main categories for your itineraries. Details follow up below…

1.Quaint and quirky cafes and resorts with breathtaking views in and around Coonoor

2.Picnic and barbecue spots

3.Hikes/rides/drives

4.Tut break getaways

5.Shopping/ things to pick up

6.The 8 market Haul

7.Tailors aka humble fashion designers of W

8.Functions like SCADS/ LINEN FETE/ WINTER CARNIVAL

Nestled in the lap of nature, amidst the blue mountains lies a quaint little town flaunting some age old British charm called Wellington! It boasts of it’s salubrious climes with sprawling tea gardens and endangered wildlife which ain’t so wild anymore, for you’d spot Bisons on the roads and if lucky even leopards or bears galavanting on streets at night! Cafes where one could chill for hours, sipping over coffee..reading your favorite book..or just brunching with your girl friends while the pati devs are busy romancing their books, could be the best thing to happen to one! So here’s a list of my favorite ones (in the order of my liking)

CAFES And Eateries..

1.Non Such Retreat ( 9626226157)

I personally like this place a lotttt while some of you might find it overrated…but if you’re a sucker for solace and calm and quiet surroundings with stunning views this one’s your place to be..Cut off from the city and surrounded by the prettiest tea gardens lies the non such retreat..they serve delicious south Indian meal, just that you’d have to inform them a day in advance! There are couple of hikes around the retreat too! Details in the hiking paragraph!

2.La Belle Café and Resort (04232233222)

Now this one surely doesn’t need an intro( a famous shooting spot for many movies ( Student of the Year was shot here too!)..us girls would crash this place almost every second day…I love their cute kettles and chicken cheese sandwiches with cold coffee of course! The restaurant inside offers a huge variety in menu along with the best sunset view

20031929_10155932452346789_484625554574528344_n — My fav spot at LA Belle!

3) Café Diem (09845001111)

Gorgeous ambiance…quirkiest décor and decent food (only for vegetarians though) ..this café has all my heart…their flavored teas n desserts sure are scrumptious!

4) Open Kitchen

60350345_357391914907105_1371130947327492096_n — Open Kitchen happens to be the first cafe i visited in Coonoor! We reached Wellington on my Birthday and here was my treat 😀

This quaint cosy café is known for its pizzas and recently burgers too! The café has a cool vibe with yellow dim lights and pictures on our favorite shows and cycling love! My personal favorite here was their chilli cheese toast and ginger squash! The Café has one branch in Ooty as well.

5) The Culinarium

True to its name this place boasts of its wide variety in different cusines..perfect for a weekend brunch. This place also offers you a venue to host high tea for your friends or guests with a fancy spread that’s absolutely prettiness personified! Oh and their Pot Pies would never disappoint you!

6) ABABA(9952994964)

I’d keep it simple…this place was My dose of Coffee/Hot Chocolate…a recently opened café, it’s yet to catch up but their potato stuffed buns and hot coffee are a delight on one of those misty rainy days in The Nilgiris!

7) Café Coffee Bean

With an open sit out, this place has simple warm hosts and a basic menu! Takes you back to one of those Tapri kind of cafes during college times…a good place to hang out in the evenings!

8) Eats Café

Situated next to Sims Park,a simple café with good food…my personal favorite here was Oreo Shake n Chicken Burgers!

Ps: the sims park gate has some stalls that sell yummiest boiled bhuttas or sweet corn! If youre a corn lover do try these!

9)Khaana Khazana

Very easy on your pockets and good food! Its ideal for the end of the month binging 😛 oh and if you’re looking for the authentic southern flavored filter coffee…here’s your brewery!

10) Jharoka(04232237444)

My all time favorite, this restaurant offers you the best north Indian food in town…my life saver for all the times I wanted to sham it out in the kitchen for they are open to home delivery on all days…their garlic naan and kolhapuri chicken is to die for!

11) The Little Coonoor Bakery(9566290465)

Love Momos? Who doesn’t! The bakery is yet to come up with a place of its own but does offer a take away….Their cheese and chicken momos are outa the world!

12) Frugal Gourmet Lovedale

A pop up dining destination at the hosts home itself, the place not only offers great food but also a beautiful homely ambience with artistic touch to it! Its open for lunch, afternoon tea or early dinner…

Following places don’t need an intro for these are pretty famous

13) Hopscotch

14) WGC

20245947_10155967021336789_4087282362319656615_n — Girlie time at WGC

15) Tandoori Hut Kotagiri (for rolls)

16) Taj Gateway Coonoor

17) Orchid Square

WEEKEND GETAWAYS

Weekend is the time to unwind! After all, the boys too need a break from the study rut..With Kotagiri and Ooty on either sides, just a stone’s throw away, one has ample of choices to spend the weekend blissfully cut off from the elusive owl…Here are some of them…

1) La Maison

2) Fuschia

3) Tea Nest

4) Fernhill

5) Redhills resort

6) Destiny farmstay

7) Pykara guest house

8) Kurumba village resort

9) Glyngarth Resorts

10) Kings Cliff

11) Gems Park Ooty

12) Lymond

So, I haven’t been to all these places but some are done by friends while few by acquaintances…I shall only write about the ones I’ve visited..

1) Fuschia Kotagiri

Located in the interiors of Kotagiri, amidst the tea gardens Fuschia is a haven for nature craving nuts! Serene environs, breathtaking views, a hustling brook flowing nearby and a drive through the Jacaranda kissed streets surely makes this place a perfect getaway…Apart from having 7 rooms, they offer meals just for visitors as well provided you inform them a day in advance…Their authentic south Indian spread is a treat to one’s palette!

2) La Maison

60003145_502808800257933_6448733970052939776_n — La Masion is a must visit! A tiny open bath space with these spectacular views and incredible French Vibes! Love the aesthetics of this place!

A super gorgeous boutique and heritage homestay that teleports you to the French Riviera…Perched on a hilltop, this pet friendly resort gives shelter to some exotic flora n fauna…A relaxed luncheon with friends or a rejuvenating dip in the valley facing bath tub, this one sure knows how to let you DISCONNECT!!

3) Fernhill Palace Ooty

An erstwhile palace of Maharaja of Mysore, the resort is studded with sprawling green lawns, beautiful gardens and stunning views overlooking lush green valleys…Famous for being a hotspot for all horror movie shoots, you’d find certain eeriness in the place, though I find it too pretty to be eerie!

4) RedHill Resorts Ooty

Redhill Resort overlooking the pristine Emerald Lake

Best known for its splendid view, overlooking the Emerald Lake, this place offers a wide range of activities like trekking, fishing, riding, bird watching etc. as well as arrangement of barbecue and bonfires.. A rather long and bumpy ride from Wellington but a must visit!

5) Glyngarth Resorts Ooty

Overlooking the Masinagudi Valley, this one is a perfect soul retreat…Apart from being located in a pristine location, one thing that makes this place stand apart is their infinity pool facing the Blue Mountains….Good Food…Great Ambience and a perfect location away from the touristy locales of Ooty makes it one of the best weekend getaways out there…

LEISURE ACTIVITIES/HIKES/RIDES/PICNICS

I Climb Therefore I Am!

There’s no better way to explore the contours of a place in and out than on foot!

While I absolutely love exploring the hidden trails and offbeat locations, due to certain unavoidable reasons, I couldn’t explore this gem as much as I did in Bhutan. There are two hikes that are close to my heart for the places are cut off from the mainstream town and civilization…The Gundada and Aravukadu Villages and The Kurumba Tribe Village. The other two hikes that I’d recommend would be the waterfalls close to Fuschia and further ahead the trail to Bibin Village…another one would be the Toda Village next to Ralia Dam a hike which Dssc also organizes….A walk along the Nilgiris railway track can be equally rewarding!

22728696_10156426930301789_825510027875511713_n — My thing for brit styled railway stations

Kurumba Village

28059527_10156835818226789_6260340526061769810_n — Kurumba hut made of mud walls & thatched with a slate roof

Some nagging and couple of emotional blackmails later, the hubster was finally convinced to tag along for the hike that I’d otherwise planned to do solo…Just a cautionary advice….Try not doing this hike alone for the track though isn’t an arduous one but has a whole lot of humongous Bisons enroute…The Non Such Retreat also provides a guide for this hike but charges a bomb for it…So you might as well do it by yourself…The route is simple..start walking towards the factory n after about a km take the first prominent right turn…you’d see a lot of workers at the tea garden and could ask anyone for the village…it’s just a 3 kms walk one way but the route is absolutely spellbinding! The village boasts of being a home to one of the most primitive tribes of Nilgiris called Kurumbas. Its nestled in the forest away from the city chaos and has a total of 21 houses…Here are some pictures from my hike…

Gundada Village and further up to Aruvankadu

25073074_10156614084046789_8438069543795864120_o — Gundada village

Here’s a detailed story of my hike to Gundada…its my favorite getaway in Wellington..Easily doable and close to the Dssc complex, this place can and should not be missed! You could either start hiking from Jagathala or drive up from Circle Quarters to Jagathala, vordanity village and then park your vehicles at this village and climb up to Gundada and further up to Aruvankadu…My very own Neverland in the Nilgiris!

23843331_10156566968301789_3166113371077254542_n — Hike to Aravukadu village

Toda Village next to Ralliah Dam

IMG_6937 - Copy — Landsacape enroute toda village close to Ralia Dam

20031890_10155932448651789_6804137811863514997_n — a temple of the indigenous Toda tribes

A small walk through a copse would lead you to the tranquil waters of Ralia…Keep walking along the ban and you would reach the Toda tribe settlement…..Most of the times there’s a guard around who could help you out with the route….The jungle trail is absolutely calm and peaceful,revitalizing your mind and soul! One could even spot exotic Malabar Squirrel…oh and once you reach the village, you could even place an order for toda shawls, bags or even customize things with their embroidery and work…

Kodanadu View Point And The Drive Through Kotagiri

20106647_10155932448151789_1386148281291548186_n — Kodanadu viewpoint at Kotagiri

19990495_10155932448456789_8094498683600340221_n — One of my favorite villages in Kotagiri enroute to Kodanadu view point

59993547_851126488598118_9126272326759874560_n — The sprawling green meadows of 9th Mile In Ooty make a perfect place for picnics! But avoid going over the weekends!

A Cycle Ride To Dolphins Nose

20431604_10155995181031789_5381853756057672112_n — Out of the five cycle rides organised by the college, i went for two! This ones enroute Dolphins Nose!

Fuschia Waterfall, Catherine Falls, Pykara Falls and Elk Falls are best to hike around this time in monsoons…

60237792_1274162012766961_3094881273752059904_n — Pykara Falls In Ooty!

Upper Bhavani Lake and Avalanche

To reach the Upper Bhavani lake you will have to reach the forest department which is near the famous four road crossing of Ooty..This place is around 24 kms downhill from ooty and will take you an hour to reach…From the checkpost there are guided tours..Vehicles of different sizes will be available..The trips operate from 9am to 5pm on first come first serve basis…Mostly, the vehicle tours have three spots…The Sholas….The Bhavani Temple and The Upper Bhavani Lake…a one hour drive on rough road but totally worth it!

20032046_10155932451166789_6868974888768727020_n — The upper bhavani lake!

For Picnics and barbecues, Glenmorgan, Emerald Lake, Ninth Mile, Pine Forest Ooty make some of the best bets!

Tut Break Getaways

With three to four days of break in hand we have ample of places to explore around Coonoor…I shall spam you with the pictures of the ones we covered

Tirupur and Karur

If you’re a sucker for pretty home linen and clothes as well, these two aren’t to be missed…Tirupur is a hub for garments..some even branded ones..i got my levis denims all for 500 bucks…one needs to have patience and time to hunt for things in the godowns where clothes are strewn all over the place…These are all brand new and ready to be shipped to their brand outlets.

At the linen hub…Karur…a tip here…please try doing this trip in winters! i went here in march and suffered a heat stroke! what you see in the backdrop are all table covers! that much variety!

23032557_10156480714161789_670673075878545346_n — At Tirupur! My reaction says it all!

While Karur is the home linen haven..All your 8 market stuff comes from this town…Curtains..Sheers..Blinds..Table Covers..quirky cushion covers..dining mats and runners..bedspreads..you name it and you shall find it here…

Pondicherry

21317608_10156248047851789_1020452227201717987_n — The White Town and its bright colored walls!

The French Riviera, with beautiful beaches…some fort ruins and quirkiest cafes…A days trip from Pondy would take you to the beautiful Pichavaram forest and Tranquebar Port Town which are equally astounding!

Varkala

29356881_10156929170266789_6642776477907550208_n — Boat rides in Varkala backwaters!

A coastal town near Trivandrum, this place is a perfect sun and sand getaway…One could enjoy boat rides in backwaters as well..There is also an old British fort and a boat ride from the lighthouse to a small little island with temple in Anjengo…

Hampi

Hampi with her gigantic boulders scattered across the countryside, greenest paddy fields with southern palms dotting their boundaries, peaceful coracle ride in the calm waters of Shanapur Lake, the ancient ruins strewn all over the town takes you back to the long forgotten Vijayanagar Empire.. Her sunsets are absolutely hypnotic!

Coorg, Mysore, Alleppey and Alappuzha are other spots that can be covered. Meanwhile The Bandipur National Park and Mudumalai National Parks can be easily covered since these are just a stone’s throw away from Ooty! The route Gundlupet is breathtaking with endless blossoms in Summer and Spring season.

Shopping Retreats!

1) Leather Stuff

Marigold and Skins are two such shops in Ooty that provide a range of products in leather…From smart leather boots to jackets n bags…I hoarded many boots for i never get my size for the huge manly feet I have..Don’t be surprised to find brands like Hush Puppies, Buggatti and likes for very reasonable prices!

2) Toda Jewellery

Tulsi Mall in Coonoor and Big Shop in Ooty have some beautiful silver antiques and jewelry. One could even pick up just the pendants…I personally have a hugeeee thing for silver jewelry and therefore picked up a a toda tribe necklace and a pair of jhumkas! Whoever said money can’t buy happiness was truly lying eh!

3) Ketty Embroidery

Sister Keerthan in Ketti Village deals with the embroidery work…I didn’t get one for myself but here is the contact if required….9486801352

4) Tea Leaves and Chocolates

Being in the Nilgiris how can one not collect tea….one will find a huge variety of flavors..right from chocolate to peppermint…Nilgiris Store in Coonoor has it all…oh and do try their Brinjal Pickle! Its absolute heaven!

5) Silk Saree Shopping From Coimbatore and Mysore

THE 8 MARKET HAUL

29066364_10156905179111789_8644893702189219840_n — the 8 market madness!

Coming to my favorite part….This market never disappoints! Never everrr! Falling on every second Sunday of the month ( I know it’s such a longgg wait for passionate shopaholics like me:” this market starts at 5am and goes on till the sunset….Floor Cushions…cushion covers..home linen…spices…just anything and everything sold here makes a good buy…Sarees for like 100 bucks are not only great for gifting the maids but also can be used as a fabric for suits n dresses…and if they turn out to be flawless then why not even drape it! Here’s some of the picks from my 8 market haul

27540289_10156791089731789_3854933027729083361_n — Look who would chill like a boss with all my 8 market cushions!! ps: those blue ones were all of 100 bucks ( the cushion and the cover)

25158325_10156619626011789_7321799850747302436_n — The 8 market haul! the picture says it all 😛 Women reach the ground as early as 5 am with their head torches!

24909728_10156616882931789_6151693022953691794_n — those vibrant cushion covers picked up from 8 market giving a colorful makeover to my balcony!

20861638_10156117292271789_5909339520420981897_o — I absolutely loved these shibori floor cushions! By the end of the course, my friends gave me a title ” Cushion Queen”! Buttt how could one not pick up those!

THE SABYASACHI’S OF WELLINGTON

Now while these guys are loaded with hell lot of work, but their work is pretty impressive! My personal favorite is Bombay Tailor who’s not only stitched blouses but also dresses, crop tops and palazzos for me….

Here are the contact details

1) Bombay Tailors 9487966302

2) Krishna Tailors 9788578635

3) Rao Tailors Coonoor ( opposite ABABA)

PS: Out of the many tea factories, The High Field Tea Factory on walkers hill road offers a guided tour and a glimpse into the process of tea manufacturing.

20292933_10155971673721789_8410371223245528472_n — At The Highfield Tea Factory after the tour….One even gets to taste different flavors of tea here…The White Tea happens to be the most expensive of all owing to its health benefits

MISCELLANEOUS

If you want to showcase your talent or just learn new things and forge new friendships do participate in Scads…Linen Fete and Winter Carnival are great platforms to display your art and creativity and at the same time get paid for it!

I think i’m done jotting down the basics! Feel free to ping me on Instagram or Facebook if you have any queries…I would be glad to help! Have a fantastic tenure….You are in one of the most beautiful places and I am sure each one of you shall have incredible times and happy memories to take! Cheerio!

Shangarh…Her Meadows and Mountains!

IMG-20190429-WA0014 — The early morning view at Upper Nahi Village!

It was Day 3 already! Last two days just zoomed by in a jiffy and today was the day of reluctant retreat! We woke up to zero visibility with the clouds spamming the landscape. I wished it rained harder so that we had a genuine reason to stay back. But Mahi anyway had some guests coming to Shangarh and therefore we decided to move today itself. Also the picture he and the other bloggers painted of Shangarh, got us even more curious to explore the place. I am forever battling dilemmas to see new places or spend time at the ones already stayed at and loved with all my heart! But then again one must give a fair chance to all the unseen ones too! Right?

After bidding a not so keen goodbye to the entire family, we trekked down to Lower Nahi Village to catch an SUV, for the road to Shangarh, didn’t really define roads too well! And guess who loyally accompanied us till the lower village? Whitey! It broke my heart to bid goodbye to him! I might have been a Doggie Mommy( biologically) in some alter life!

IMG-20190429-WA0016 — Bidding Goodbyes to Our warmest hosts at Aastha Homestay!

IMG-20190429-WA0011 — Whitey Boy coming along with us till Lower Nahi Village!

While getting into the mini truck, i asked the driver if it were okay to sit in the open backspace. Mahi didn’t approve of the idea but then A girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do! So me and Tripti hopped into the back carrier, fell here and there a million times, laughed like maniacs, screamed our guts out every time the vehicle slid a bit in the slush, got goosebumps not only because the cold air kissed us gently but also because the views were no less than a picture of a dreamland turning into life!

IMG-20190429-WA0017 — Clicked while sitting in the back open space of the mini truck!

En route while driving along the hustling Sainj river, we crossed the Ropa Complex where the Gate of the GHNP lies. The complex also provides guest rooms at reasonable charges. The non existent roads were extremely slushy and made it difficult for the driver to maneuver along the hairpin bends. Traffic jams here were made of tons of sheep flocking by. This place didn’t know of mob and noise. We could now see the Upper Nahi village far away on the mountain. A little farther a beautiful 5 tiered temple caught my eye! It stood away from civilization in Shanshar. There were villages wayyy high up on the mountains. I told myself in my head that id come explore them someday!

IMG-20190429-WA0013 — Anjaani Raahon mein, Tu Kya Dhoond Firrey Dur jisko samjha woh toh pass hai tere!

The famed meadows of Shangarh lived up to its name! The school kids played cricket there and fleeting clouds danced around. Two wooden temples rested on the meadows and were apparently known as resting place for the Devtas. The main temple however rested in the middle of the village dedicated to the local deity called Shungchul Mahadev. A new house like structure was being built right next to it, probably a place dedicated to the temple priests. It is said that the the temple caught fire a few years back, which led to a visit of some ministers who gave funds for construction of the same. Shangarh also gained fame since then.

IMG-20190429-WA0057 — I could lie down here and roll till eternity!

The meadows are considered so sacred that even high level dignitaries, police officials etc enter temple leaving their caps and belts outside and those who disobey are cursed eventually. One of the locals gave an instance where a man drank alcohol on the meadows and was struck by lightning the very same day! Faith and folklores have a perennial bond! Don’t they! This particular village is also known to be kind towards people who elope for marriages due to societal vices! Isn’t it amazing how these remote corners of our country at times are rigid on certain beliefs and then there are some who know no disparities and go against what’s called A NORM!!

IMG-20190429-WA0015 — The famous temple of Shungchul Mahadev! in Kath Kuni architecture!

The Shungchul Mahadev reminds many of the Chaini Kothi Temple in Banjaar near Jibhi. The wooden Katth Kuni structure is a marvel of architecture with grand carvings and multiple storeys.

IMG-20190429-WA0061 — The intricate work on wood!

IMG-20190429-WA0010 — The Meadows have surprises only if you see!

We moved forward and walked around the lower village, the slush making it uneasy to run around yet the urge to see more didn’t seem to cease. The cows grazing outside in the slight drizzle with clouds rising up over the slanting roofs, appeared like the smoke billowing out of the chimneys. We climbed up to our homestay where Naresh, Mahis cousin welcomed us to his abode with a shy smile. Mahi and Naresh were poles apart. He and his family had just started with the homestay service and we were their first guests. The washrooms were not even done up yet, but the stay was comfortable. I’ve learnt to be a tad less fussy about my stays over the last few months. I think the hosts and their warmth make all the difference.

IMG-20190429-WA0021 — A school kid heading back home, taking careful steps on the slushy paths!

The weather was all packed up by afternoon and the sky began to turn grey. The cold wind got meaner and Mahi I and Tripti huddled around the heater while Naresh, another PUBG addict, was glued to his phone screen. By around 4:30, my feet itched to get out and walk the village bylanes. While these three decided to light the fire outside,i set out for my evening walk. The village lanes were all slushy and tiny riverlets gushed by. Many pipes had burst and the water flowed with heavy cascades as though it were some waterfall. The clouds had engulfed the lower hamlets of Shangarh. I decided to take random trails winding through the deodar forests. The paths were adorned with the brown winter leaves shed around and stones and rocks that slid down the hill due to heavy rains. A little far away i saw a house ;like many others throwing smoke out of its chimney. A girl and two boys played cricket outside in its grassy courtyard. I decided to go down and ask them if i could be their audience, promising them that i’d cheer them on, on hitting sixes and fours.

IMG-20190429-WA0022 — The tiny little streamlets!

IMG-20190429-WA0059 — Cricket matches aint that easy in the mountains!

So this was an all new cricket i watched here! Every time the batsman hit the ball, it went rolling downhill and the bowler who was also the fielder would run all the way down to grab the ball while the batsman would go on making runs! The grass was wet and slippery and the girl whose turn was to bowl would every time throw the ball high in the air and her brother at the wicket would hit it harder, throwing the ball farther than farthest. The sister while climbing back to the pitch, tried to catch hold of her breath, when i decided to give her my tiny bit of bowling knowledge! ‘Pinky, agar is baar bhi bhaagna hai then ball ko hawa mein udaana but agar out karna hai, ball ground ke bilkul pass wicket pe nazar rakh ke marna” Well, it didn’t get her a wicket but it surely helped her sticking around the pitch and not running after the ball!

IMG-20190429-WA0064 — Winter leaves adorning the paths!

Just when i decided to join them on the pitch, the grey clouds metamorphosed into rain drops that got only heavier. Luckily i was carrying my rain jacket. I bid the kids goodbye and decided to go back uphill,taking the forest trail. The riverlets got louder and the clouds rose up from the hamlets below, dressing up the mountains like never before. Walking all alone in these trails in rain is all that my heart yearned for! Little did i know that an hour later, another beautiful surprise awaited me!

IMG-20190429-WA0018 — After getting wet in the rain, i joined Trips Mahi and Naresh at the bonfire!

I got back to Mahi. Naresh and Trips warming up their hands around the fire that was struggling to stay on under the tree cover. After moving inside for a cup of tea, the rain later seemed to sober down. While peeping outside the window, i realized that the rain had fallen quiet only to give way to the fairy tale snowflakes! The nature Gods were being more than kind to us and i couldn’t thank them enough for we were lucky to have witnessed this season’s last snowfall in Shangarh!

IMG-20190429-WA0058 — Porch with a view!

Later that night while it snowed outside our glass windows, we sat down talking about life, how enriching travel is, Mahi telling us about his experiences with the travelers from all over India and some famous travel bloggers! While the snow didn’t seem to be in a mood to stop, our conversations too lasted till midnight. Our plan of trekking up to a nearby waterfall and the village rest house wouldn’t have worked out the following day for the snowfall made the paths even more slippery and the water pipes in the forest rest house burst due to cold. We hated to go to sleep with the idea of leaving tomorrow already, but like they say ‘ All good things must come to an end’!

IMG-20190429-WA0054 — Tales of this snowy morning!

The next morning, the landscape looked surreal, as though the snow gods had sprinkled white powder all over the mountains, trees, roads, houses, lampposts….just anything and everything that met our eyes! Shangarh lived up to its name and left me wanting to explore it more and more.. But i knew, this had to wait…may be even for a couple of months. Till then i decided to leave a tiny lil piece of me with her temples and mountains and cricket pitches.

Until next time!

IMG-20190429-WA0062 — i have a hugeee thing for streams and brooks!

IMG-20190430-WA0008 — Trips trying not to slip, followed by Nresh wheile heading back to the lower village!

IMG-20190430-WA0012 — One last visit to the meadow!

TRAVEL INFO AND THINGS TO DO IN SHANGARH

IMG-20190429-WA0053 — And finally Me posing with Shangarh Board! I hate goodbyes!

Shangarh is located in Sainj Valley in Himachal Pradesh at about 6300ft amsl. It’s famous for its celestial meadows, majestic temples with kath kuni architecture and offers a plethora of untamed trails for hikes. It hugs the GHNP ( great himalayan national park) and the valley is often called the valley of birds.
The ideal weather to visit Shangarh would be March to June, Sep end to November
Catch a bus going on the mandi or manali route and get down at Aut tunnel. From here take a bus to Ropa if you get one or catch a bus to Sainj bus stop and thereafter take a shared cab to Shangarh. A daily HRTC bus plies from Kullu to Shangarh.
There is a beautiful hiking trail from Upper Nahi Village to Shangarh crossing untouched meadows and hidden temples ( read about Upper Nahi here https://wordpress.com/view/talesofthehiddentrails.wordpress.com) that offers incredible views.Must do if one has no time constraints.
Shangarh being so close to GHNP in itself has various hikes to offer. A short hike to a local waterfall can be done.
Apart from visiting the meadows and the famous Shangarh temple, one can even trek up to the Forest Rest House where the room charges are Rs 500 per day. The rest house is made of wooden walls and even has the old age British charm of fireplace etc.
Homestays Available
The homestay we stayed at was not even completed yet but one can call up Mahi to arrange one. His contact details…8679139227( whatsapp number)
Snowline HomeStay 7807607331, 9816425422, 8894820083

And Then I Finally Met You Sainj!

As the indistinct chatter in the Himachal Roadways bus persisted, the sun sneaked up behind the serene Shivaliks highlighting its contours. As dawn broke I found myself withdrawn from the unbridled motion, going back to that day, a year ago, while going through Shubham Mansingka’s travel blog post on Sainj, when I couldn’t stop obsessing over this place. You know how you see something spectacular and can’t stop thinking about it! The fact that he used the phrase ‘Secret Homestay in a Secret Village’ piqued my interest to find out where this stunning piece of jewel hid itself in the mountains. And like they say ‘Mystery creates wonder’!! Exactly a year later, I just returned that mysterious hamlet that I often dreamt of and it was even prettier than how I had imagined!

FRCS2062 — Early Morning Hour of Dawn…closing towards Kiratpur!

To be honest, initially I was in two minds, whether to continue keeping this gem a secret or share it with folks like me, who craved for peace and serenity. I am writing this, with a tad bit of faith in my tiny bunch of readers that they respect the sanctity of this place and don’t turn it into yet another Kasol or Dalhousie, swamped with filth and irresponsible loud tourists.

I wanted to do a budget stay and like always, a friend I made on Instagram, Rajeshwar Thakur, came to my rescue. The trip was planned in a way that I spend minimum and see maximum. Budget traveling and a homestay was the idea! Like many of my day hikes in Bhutan, my friend Tripti agreed to tag along this time as well. At a ghoulish time of 4am did we reach the bus stand to begin our adventure. The fields near Kiratpur had metamorphosed into greener grains and the landscape flaunted the arrival of spring. Seasons are the best makeup artists when it comes to giving a makeover to the landscapes!

The omnipresent silence was only interrupted by the conversations between the bus driver and conductor. The passengers who had a long way to go till Aut were in their deep slumber while the ones who boarded the bus to get down at the nearby spots seemed familiar with the driver and conductor. One such man was a village school master who sat down in the drivers cabin, telling the conductor about board exams, how kids tend to cheat at an all new level during exams. Later the conversation drifted to some local rich man who adopted a girl, for the wife was working and there was no one at home and he needed someone for domestic help! That’s all i could decipher for they spoke in Himachali. A part of me wanted to believe in that rich man’s goodness, in the fact that he adopted a girl child and ignore the latter half. The driver was really chatty and described many road accidents and how government aids should be increased for betterment of roads in some parts of Himachal. The conductor often filled a steel glass with tea and served the driver on regular intervals! I was in the process of developing a new found respect for this lesser known being, at the steering wheel.

Short of Bilaspur, we stopped at a Dhaba while we waiting for a bus change as the one we were travelling in broke down. As we waited, the calm waters of the Koldam Dam glistened a dreamy green. It reminded me of my times in Ooty when we used to chill beside the Avalanche Lake. for all those who haven’t visited Avalanche lake, you must include it in your itinerary if you’re passing by Ooty. I was hoping to not encounter traffic jam ahead on the Aut road and luckily this time around the bus sped its way from Mandi to Aut. The Aut tunnel is almost 3 kms long running along the Sainj river. Last time around, we didn’t see it for we took a right just before turning for Jibhi and Tirthan. Well one takes the same turn for Sainj as well but in order to catch the bus from the Aut bus stand, one needs to cross the tunnel. This tunnel is apparently the second longest in India.

KDEJ9042 — While waiting for the bus At Aut Bus Stand!

I spoke to Mahi after reaching Aut and he informed us that he was waiting at the Sainj Town. Sainj was an additional hours drive. We however booked our ticket all the way up till Deori Village as our destination was another 2 to 3 kms hike up from Deori. Deori is the last place connected by a so called motorable road (read muddy track that was then loaded with slush) and made our ride the bumpiest one ever!

IMG-20190404-WA0040 — Straight from the desk of HRTC Driver! The lesser known Heroes!

My head screamed with joy “ Welcome to the bluest skies, the cherry blossoms and the roads so shy”! I saw a young guy standing at the bus stop, running towards my window. Mahi’s smile was infectious and he instantly gave me a high five! That was nothing like a first time greeting! His aura and zeal told me that I’d have to let go of this asocial being inside me and it came easy with company like him and Tripti. A horde boarded the bus from Sainj for Deori as there was no other way to travel up. The roads were non existent and there were just a few buses in a day. The drive from Sainj was another 45mins to Deori. The apple blossoms and green fields gave way to drier lands with enormous giants called Dhauladhars looming outside our windows. The path defined offbeat in its true essence being the slushiest and narrowest but the views were simply breathtaking. I was in a constant uttering either Ouch or Wow! The paranoid me dug my nails into Tripti’s arms leaving the pretty Himachali lady beside me royally amused. I badgered her with my forever ‘Deori Kab Aayega’ and every time she smirked and said ‘thoda aur time hai’! By now my head was spinning! We were on the bus for almost 12 hours now! Things I do for my beloved…The Mountains!

UBGO3304 — The Himachali lady whom i badgered my lame queries with!

IMG-20190404-WA0023 — Last stop at Deori! We now had to walk from here!

The bus journey finally concluded at Deori. Tons of people made a queue and headed towards their village, some who had their homes just a few away while few like us who had to walk a little more till Upper Nahi. Like most of the villages, this one too had a temple right in the beginning A white building adorned with bright green colored roof with purple window frames that turned out to be a Post Office stood right next to Mahi’s Uncle’s place where we halted to grab a bite as our tummies were growling with hunger! Who would mind being a postman working at this gorgeous Daak Khaana ( like they call it in the villages)!

IMG-20190404-WA0024 — Post Office At Deori!

Half an hour of climb through Deodar forests and some green fields by our side, we finally landed at our home for two days. Upper Deori..the secret village I had read about was now right here! I was living my dream. Shubham is Mahi’s good friend and I therefore asked him to show me all the places he had written about in his blog. I remember him mentioning about this Swiss Couple’s cottage which now has no one staying. It stood in the middle of apple orchards, looking bereft of company and love!

Just as you enter the village, the sacred Pundrik Rishi Lake, though bereft of water graced the landscape along with green meadows bearing tall pines and deodars. The fields had just started to turn green but I could well imagine how insanely gorgeous would it be in the monsoons. Colorful houses with slanting slated roofs dotted the village landscape. Most of the houses followed the KATHA KUNI architecture, made of wood mud and slates. No cement or modern material is used for building these structures. My favorite part about most of these houses is the outside balcony with huge wooden frames with no glass as such, so one has non obstructed views for miles galore.

PPAM1186 — One of the Many Houses with Kathakuni Architecture!

A village primary secondary school stood there in the middle of the field with two temples around. Children played cricket when we arrived and the sun was almost on its way to call it a day! Plumes of smoke spiralled out of the houses and the last rays of the sun kissed the snowy peaks around. The secret homestay actually seemed to be mysterious for we had crossed half the village and still not reached our home for tonight. Mahi’s is the last house in the village with spectacular views and happy vibes.The outside porch was my love at first sight and I knew where I’d be chilling for the next two days.

Tripti and I would sit here, sipping on our tea, talking endlessly to Mahi and cuddling up with Whitey Boy for hours!

Huge wooden framed windows gifted one with spellbinding views of endless green sprawling farms and the snow covered Dhauladhar Mountains and in case you’re lucky enough to have a clear day then a stunning sunrise too! There were last few minutes of sunlight outside and we decided to drop our bags and get out to see the village before it would get dark.

IMG-20190404-WA0049 — Uff this Village and the landscape that puts ya in trance state!

Just like old times in Bhutan, me and Tripti wandered around in the hamlet with a furry pal whom we named Browny( we always end up naming dogs on the basis of their colors and that must sound so racist right ;\) this time with Mahi too giving us company. He wanted to play cricket with the kids and so tagged along till the school meadow. I’ve often noticed how friendships based in these little hamlets are never based on age, caste or community. Well, it turned out what I’d observed wasn’t true completely. Certain societal vices still existed in the hinterland. Can’t blame the people though. Our country has miles to go probably because of illiteracy and archaic beliefs. Shall tell you about my tryst with that in Himachal later in this post. While walking around we saw many hidden facets of the culture, for instance this knitting and weaving machine used by the village ladies to make the famous Himachali shawls and dresses like Pattu. Vibrant colored wool were entangled around the frame. On asking one of the village women, how soon she’d complete one shawl, we got to know it took eight to ten days and at least a kilo or two of wool for one shawl, depending on the work! Browny ran around the green fields like a liberated soul! All that dull headache and fatigue dissipated into the thin cold air leaving only warmth and happiness behind.

LSSO4012 — The weaving frame outside one of the houses!

While Mahi continued playing cricket with kids, we decided to venture out further into the village, curious to know the folks and their stories. A pretty green house stood quiet and lonesome looking down at the valley and the mountains around. Its attic had undisturbing views and we decided to find out who lived in this dreamy abode. A thumping sound came from one of the rooms on top and a flight of huge wooden steps took us up to the attic. We knocked on the door couple of times but there were no response. An old man came out in a bit and said hello. We asked him if it were okay to sit in his attic and chit chat with him and his family and he smiled and said ‘of course’! He even asked us for tea and we politely declined for we didn’t want to trouble them too much.While sitting outside at the porch staring at the hills, the calm silence in the air was interrupted by a heavy voice of certain someone who told us to come out of the house. On being asked why, the person said to come down immediately and that she’d tell us the reason later. We were apparently pulled out of the house for the inhabitants were of low caste! Did I seriously hear that!?

IMG-20190404-WA0043 — At one of the porch of the village houses!

I was flabbergasted then and somehow contained my feelings within. Though I did try explaining to this certain woman how senseless her ideas about caste were but who was I to lecture. They’ve grown up hearing folklores where mostly the sinful things were committed by lower caste folks and how unhappy the almighty was with that. I remembered how my homestay auntie in Kareri felt apologetic on getting to know how we were just two sisters in the family with no brother. Also why I hadn’t planned a kid even after six years of marriage. That too wasn’t acceptable to me. But there are times and places when we have to let go! When I sit down and think about it, who am i to judge their thoughts. We in the cities bound to be cl-assist. We don’t approve of our maids sitting on the fancy couch in our drawing room or eat in those bone china crockery. So even though I lectured for a bit and kept thinking about the same whole night, i knew in the heart of hearts how impossible it were to bring about that change in a day or two!

Mahi being an excellent host made it sure to fill our tummies well before we called it a night. He too ate along sitting around the heater, cracking jokes that sounded the lamest yet got us laughing our guts out.

IMG-20190404-WA0022 — Love how the clouds make their mark on the mountains in the form of those grey shadows!

Tripti and I went to bed discussing how it felt like homecoming for the place might have changed from Haa Valley in Bhutan to Sainj Valley in Himachal but we were the same mad women, wandering around hungry for mountain love. And then again those Mighty Giants, The Mountains and its people were the same old..same old!

DAY2…

I woke up at 6;30 am to Mahi snoring in the next room and Tripti in deep slumber next to me. Like always I was up early in the mountains, wishing to catch a glimpse of the sunrise. But the clouds seemed to have their way today. It wasn’t even seven and I see a lady sitting on her knitting machine, weaving a shawl early morning. Bright red with black wool flung across the machine frame and she worked diligently on it. And here I was still groggy, taking pride in the fact that I woke up early. The mountain folks sure know how to keep yourself grounded!

KSLC7730 — Early Morning Scenes at Upper Nahi…A lady is up and about at her job at 6;45 AM! Howwww?

A little later I was joined by Whitey and he walked along every step. I sat down around these mustard fields with him staring at the village houses beneath my feet just when a pretty bright blue birdie flew by. I sighed for having missed seeing it clearly and just then a flock of them fluttered by! The pretty dainty Magpies! My genie was somewhere close by listening to my wishes! I won’t be surprised if it was Whitey The Furry Boy! The early morning is always my favorite time in the mountain villages. The stillness in the air is broken by the chirping birds and every house seems to add a little drama by belching out spirals of smoke through chimneys while women are already at work, walking across the fields, their backs hunched with the weight of wooden baskets behind.

IMG-20190404-WA0028 — My Pets …Tripti and Whitey 🙂

IMG-20190404-WA0030 — The Gorgeous Magpie flying with her open wings and free spirit!

An hour or two later we were ready for our hike to Sarikanda.Leaving the greener pastures behind we made way to rockier climbs and trails made of slush and pine cones. Sarikanda was a meadow on top and was most probably snowed out today. Old habits are hard to die and Tripti just like old times in Bhutan, started with her ‘ Aur kitna time hai or how far is it now?’ And i like always kept telling her ‘ we are almost there!’ That’s how we hiked three years back and that’s how we were managing now too 🙂 Enroute Mahi showed us the place where, back in the day his ancestors would stay. After the earthquake of 1905, they relocated to lower areas. A small little temple with a local deity like Shiva stood around that patch and red flags fluttered in the air. The trail eventually gave way to rocks, demanding us to climb the rocky steps but as we went higher, the views only got more and more magical. The clouds unveiled the Snow clad mountains as if it were a trophy being unveiled for trekking up to this place.

IMG-20190404-WA0051 — Trekking Up To Sarikanda!

Enroute the trail up we were greeted by some coal black scarred trees reminiscing of an age prior to being struck by the purity of lightning. These remnants were a stoic reminder of how nature can be violent & raging even in lightning which is signified by our symbol of purity i.e. white. As we trekked higher the snow mat got denser until a point wherein our boots were no longer visible. In those two feet of white powder with cool mountain breeze flirting with us did we truly realise that the beauty of the trek lay in its remoteness & wilderness. Upon reaching a shepherd’s ‘Dhok’, we took some time off admiring the views around us while Tripti was engrossed in drying her feet as she hadn’t got any trekking shoes on this trip. I offered her my socks for the meantime & i blissfully wandered around the meadow allowing my sensory receptacles in my feet to soak in the purity & trueness of mother nature.

IMG-20190404-WA0027 — Sitting at one of the abandaoned sheds with that view! This was just so hypnotic!

Sometimes all you need to connect with your roots to this planet is to let go of the hesitation to digress into the path less travelled. After a short break, dark angry clouds laden with moisture started to approach our location and we decided to scamper back to the safety of our homestay. On our descent as luck would have it, we were driven away by an impromptu snowfall which added wings to our feet as we rushed to the warm licks & wagging tail of Whitey.

IMG-20190404-WA0036 — Mahi, like a good guide, leaving a trail behind for us! All hearts for this Boy!

Raajma Chaawal and fuzzy blankets around Bukhari are all that you need after hiking in that beautiful yet challenging snowy weather. We had the evening free for us and Tripti decided to ask the family help us dress up in their Himachali attire called Pattu. I had never imagined getting dolled up on a backpacking trip but then that’s what girlfriends do right..add a whole lot of drama and excitement to your trip. Deepa, one of the family members helped us drape the Pattu. She was kind enough to share her dresses with us and man they were absolutely gorgeous. Such intricate embroidery over beautiful woolen shawls. We later went gallivanting the entire village,catching the limelight.

IMG-20190404-WA0046 — Look at us in Pattus and look at that view behind!

The villagers giggled looking at these two female travellers dressed up like them and were kind enough to compliment us even though i know i looked quite funny. Infact in my head i thought i could easily pass off as ‘A Black Magic Woman’! 😀 Whitey like always wandered around with us, through fields and meadows.

A little later that evening, we sat down next to the heater listening to Mahi’s tales. There was never a dull moment around this boy. He had named us Bhaangdi and Chirkundi and we had no idea what that meant but in return we called him Bhaangdu! He’s probably one of the warmest hosts i know and literally took care of us like we were his family. He’d often tell me that i am the serious kinds and that he had to think before saying anything to me and how Tripti was a chirpy bird 😛 but i absolutely loved his brutally honest nature! We’d never get tired of his stories.

People like him make me want to travel more, makes me want to trust in the strangers more than ever and continue finding joy in the unknown!

Because The Blog Post would have been incomplete without this Boys Picture!

What waited for us in Shangarh was yet another fairytale! ( To be Contd)

TRAVEL AND HOMESTAY INFO

There are enough buses that ply from Chandigarh ( Sector 43 ISBT) for Aut. You could catch any bus that goes towards Manali and get down at the Aut Bus Stand. The bus stand is located right after crossing the Aut Tunnel and is on the right side of the road. One has to get down via steps as its not on the main road itself.
Try catching an early morning bus from Chandigarh to avoid jams. I caught the 4 am bus and reached Aut by 2PM.
From Aut obe has to catch a bus for Sainj. Incase you happen to get a bus for Deori, it’s even better. Deori is another 45mins of drive up from Sainj. The road is pretty rough and avoid driving in your own vehicle.
Upper Nahi is 2kms up from Deori. One has to hike from here as there is no motorable road to Upper Nahi Village.
This gorgeous homestay we stayed at is called Aastha Homestay named on the little girl of the family. Each and every member of the family is extremely warm and helpful and you’re in for a terrific time.
Aastha Homestay is a budget homestay. The washrooms are not attached to your room and our built outside, in the home compound but are well kept and clean with hot water available.
The rooms are basic but have all the essential things like heater and enough blankets to keep you warm and comfortable.
They charge you per head, Rs 700 for a day which not only includes your rent but all the three meals and yes the meals are absolutely delish and filling.
Mahi, the host is such a livewire who would not only keep you comfortable but also guide you with hikes and places to explore in and around the village.
Sai Ropa and Shangarh are must visit places and if you have enough time, you could ask him to guide you for hikes in GHNP ( additional charges may apply for that)
The internet connectivity is poor but that’s the best part no? I have a Jio sim and therefore had no coverage while my friends vodafone was working well.
Mahi’s Contact Number…8679139227.

The Potter’s Wheel….Khurja!

XVQQ5442 — One of the stalls in Dilli Haat!

While standing at one of the pottery stalls, haggling my way through with the vendors at Dilli Haat, i couldn’t stop drooling over everything my eyes met! A hugeeee sucker for pottery and ceramic art, i find it difficult to maintain my fiscal discipline at such places! But the prices did seem exorbitant! On asking the sales boy where he got all that gorgeous stuff from, i learnt of this haven that happens to be a stone’s throw away from my home ( Noida) and justtt 80 odd kms from New Delhi! And thus the urge to visit Khurja sprang up which was so bad that it lead me to this city of pottery the very next day itself!! ( Call me a pottery maniac but i don’t care :P)

Route

BVZA8127 — The Eastern Peripheral Expressway…making the drive easy and beautiful!

Khurja is about 72 kms from the IGI Airport in Delhi and 120 kms from the Agra airport by road. One could hire a cab which would take about two and a half hours from either of the places.

Nearest bus stands are Bulandshahar ( 18 kms) and Dadri (42 kms). Ghaziabad, Noida and Greater Noida are other main cities nearby.

It is well connected to New Delhi by train on Delhi-Kolkata route. The train takes about an hour and a half.

In case you’re looking for a place to stop by for lunch, there is one decent restaurant called Highway Chaupal. They even have their own shop of ceramics and pottery.

VQKZ4964 — Sprawling fields along NH34…And spectacular sunsets!

If you’re driving in your own car, take the Delhi- Eastern Peripheral Expressway- exit at Bulandshahr – take NH34 to Khurja. It took us an hour and 15 minutes to reach Khurja from Greater Noida.

Khurja Pottery and Its Interesting Origin

IDHJ8892 — ITS Raining potteries in Khurja

Khurja Pottery is a traditional Indian pottery, made in Khurja, in Bulandshahr district of UP. For the starters it enjoys the reputation of being a part of the Geographical Indication. There are almost 400 odd factories, employing a good about 15000 people officially and 20000 unofficial employees. ( according to Wikipedia) generating not only employment in this region of UP but also contributing to the financial and trade benefits of the country.

While reading up on Khurja that night before making a trip, i learnt that this clay pottery found its essence in India when King Taimur Lung of Afghanistan brought along artisans and potters all the way from Egypt Syria Turkey and Persia ( countries ruled by him once). After he and his army left, many artisans stayed back in India who later relocated to places like Khurja, Jaipur, Delhi etc.

A very interesting fact stated in the book ‘ Pottery making cultures and Indian Civilisation’ says that ‘ Khurja in Bulandshahr is one of the oldest centers of glazed pottery in India.’ and that ‘ These potters often call themselves as Multani Kumhars, coming from Multan, now located in Punjab Pakistan.

How Its Made

The raw materials used are Quartz stone, feldspar and China Clay also called Chini Mitti in Hindi.The clay used is local one available in Up while the stones are brought from Rajasthan.

We were lucky enough to get a glimpse of this interesting process. Here are the steps followed to manufacture the pottery/ crockery.

XBRU3367 — After the designing! Look at all that hard work!

Mixing…All the raw materials are mixed together along with water, followed by getting dehydrated in a hybrid machine which sucks the liquid out of the paste.
Moulding… Different moulds ( in the shape of cups, mugs, bowls etc) of POP are made to give the shape to the softened mixture.
Drying…. The output is then kept at a normal room temperature. It takes around a day or more to dry completely.
Designing… The product is designed differently, painted, glazed etc according to the customer demands.

Baking…. The stuff is then finally put into a huge furnace for baking at about 650 degree Celsius and eventually put into a cooling chamber to avoid cracks.

NPIG5939 — The furnace behind where the mixture is heated!

My Khurja Haul

I would like to share some pictures of the stuff i picked up for what i felt like was for pittence. Huge brands that are even internationally famous procure their products from small towns like Khurja, Sanganer etc and sell it at enormous rates! High time we recognise the effort and talent of these artisans and potters hailing from humble backgrounds carrying the pottery legacy forward since eons!

VTDP0109 — My Fav Coffee Mug…A set of 4 for 240 Only! Saw exactly similar ones at Fab India!

VHKT5201 — A hoarder of plants…picked up a lot of planters..This Rabbit one was for 60Rs

HCVV5651 — These lil boots were for Rs 40 each

IMG-20190308-WA0048 — A white kettle with a dash of green for my kettle love…Rs 100 only..

IMG-20190308-WA0049 — Microwave friendly Ceramic Kadais..A set of 3 for 250 Rs only

IMG-20190308-WA0051 — These three tiny little curios…for 120 Rs only

GTAH3771 — Glossy Maroon Kettle…Rs 250 Only

The two shops i visited were located on the GT Road called Fancy Emporium and Chabra Emporium.

Some of the other shops are as follows..

Dadoos Ceramic Group-7895506593
Crockery Mart – 9152307189
Nawal Ceramics -9152612610
Bright Crockery India- 9368689332
Chuni Lal and Sons- 8899224433

Kalka in Haryana, near Chandigarh too has couple of shops selling Khurja stuff, though the prices are relatively much higher and lesser variety. If you are around, do go have a look. The shops closest to the temple on the right hand side have the best stuff available.

Khurja is definitely worth a visit. The highway running along the green sprawling fields of UP not only takes you to one of the biggest and oldest pottery hubs of India but also discloses the tales of the hard work of these lesser known artisans, contributing to the country’s economy in their own little ways! Lets empower them by directly purchasing from their small cottage industries, giving them the much deserved due!

A Beachyyy Little Fling With Kumta!

It was that Christmas Month of December in Pune when my in laws house smelt of freshly baked plum cakes and exuded all the warm Xmas Cheer! Tee and I were making the most of this vacation ( read eating all that Pune street food and Christmas goodies). We were to plan a two day trip that involved wee bit of trekking for we’ve always loved exploring places on foot and also because how could we justify all that sinful indulgence in Vada Pavs, Dhabelis and what nott! So we planned this really offbeat trek in Maharashtra and were shit excited about it buttttt like always found something else that seemed to be kind of new and justtttt a little more attractive than the itinerary we’d made.

Tees reaction was like…’Beach Trek’?!! Why on earth would one consider the idea of hiking in a coastal town?

‘Why Not?’ I retorted! And so began stalking of random Instagrammers and bloggers who had visited the places and done the Kumta Gokarna trek! It didn’t come as a surprise to Tee though for he knew i love the ‘self Inflicted Pain Theory’ a bit too much for his liking.The trek wasn’t as offbeat as the one we had planned earlier yet it was something that we’d never done before. And so we set out on a volvo bus to Kumta, carrying just a backpack but truck loads of excitement with us!

Day 1 : Kumta

A poor fisherman who knows the beauties of the misty mornings is much richer than a wealthy man who sleeps till noon in his palace!

10 hours later,the coconut trees dotted along the roads greeted us with the sun rising over the Aghanashini River. Fishermen boats pranced around on its still waters and i wished to tell the driver to drop me off there itself. A little later we were at the bus stop in Kumta, welcomed by this cutest little furry fellow who stretched his hand out to say Hello! Could the trip start off in any better way?!

Welcomed to Kumta by this little furry fellow! The trip that starts with Doggo Love shall definitely turn out to be AWESOME!

Sucker for all quaint and quiet places, Tee did an excellent job in finding out The Five Mile Beach Resort, for our one day stay at Kumta. This gorgeous tent by the beach side had both the comfort and basic luxuries and at the same time gave one the camping feels for it was perched on the shimmering white sand of the Kadle Beach.

XFNK5710 — Our home at Kumta…The tent at 5 mile beach resort at Kadle Beach…facing the ocean.

The bed faced the ocean that roared a little far away and one could listen to the humming of waves all day long. We ordered breakfast and decided to go lie down at the beach till it arrived. Fishermen were returning to their homes from an all night fishing work and many had their dogs accompanying them. Countryside struggles were quite real!

We booked a scooter for 500 bucks for today as we wanted to drive around and explore the contours of this side of the country. The plan was to drive up to Yana ( about 30kms away from the Kumta town) and stop by at one of the fishermen villages around Aghanashini River. We raced along the pristine palms, the coastal sun charring us with all its might but we never complained for the drive around the countryside was so therapeutic. On our way to Yana Caves, we stopped at this fishermen village called Tandakuli.

BDRM5778 — Men at work at Tandakuli village…by the Aghanashinni River!

One could see the fishermen on the middle of the river with their boats, digging the riverbed for mud. An old man stood under the comforting shade of Palms and cooked in his open kitchen. I was surprised to know that he belonged to Jharkhand and was here with many others in the village from his state for labor work. Lack of job opportunities and paucity of money displaced him and many others to a state that they now call their home. Lakshman Chaudhary might have been broken financially but he like most of the villagers I’ve come across in the country was very kind and warm and asked us to have lunch with them! I was tempted to sit back in his open kitchen and indulge in their simple feast but we had a long way to go. We took an hour and a half to reach the caves.

ILTF4614 — Lakshman Choudhary …building his home in a state that was once alien to him!

The route offered some beautiful vistas of a coastal countryside. The villages this side of the town were spic and span and the roads hugged by forests on either sides,unusually quiet that didn’t know of traffic were flawlessly maintained. It was only towards the end of the drive, the climb up to the caves after turning left from the Mattighatta Road that the tarred road gave way to some ditches and potholes making the last part of the ride bumpy and swingy! It actually makes a good route to hike as well with fresh air of the forests along with the natures melody.

Into the forest i go to loose my senses! The road to Yana!

YANA CAVES And VIBHUTI FALLS

Yana Caves are located at the Yana Village in the Sahyadri Mountain ranges of Kumta district. The two rock outcrops known as Bhairaveshwara Shikhara (Shiva) and Mohini Shikhara (the female avatar of Vishnu) respectively are made up of black Karst Limestone. The legend has a very interesting story about how the rocks turned black after Bhasmasura who was granted a boon from Lord Shiva was burnt by his own hand. There’s a temple at the entrance of the caves. Owing to its religious significance, the pilgrims visit this place on Maha Shivratri. While this place was devoid of tourists but due to the weekend, a whole lot of students hung around that day. Small stream-lets gushed around as you descended from the second caves. One would find more locals than tourists here for the place has both geographical and religious significance.

Now if only i’d visited places like these back in the day in seventh grade, stalactites and stalagmites would have been much easier to comprehend.

MKWC2962 — Happily getting lost in the caves!

KLYT8635 — Monkeying around these rocky beauties!

It is said that the water that flows from these caves goes on to become VIBHUTI FALLS and later merges with Aghanashini river downstream. Vibhuti Falls is yet another scenic destination and would take an hour and a half drive from Yana Caves. Vibhuti has now found its way on popular Instagram feeds and tags but little do we all know that the north Kannada district is known as The Waterfalls Paradise with almost ten to twenty falls in a span of 30kms. I shall write about them all at the end of the post.

VBGO6904 — My own lil oasis just when i needed it!

The Beach Trek….Starting from Kumta Beach

We decided to walk through the beaches of Kumta on the other half of the day for we had a long trek to do tomorrow as well. So the agenda for the early evening, after getting back from Yana was to cover up beaches that laid before Kadle Beach….which would be Kumta Beach…Vannalli Beach and Mangodlu beach.

It was difficult to decide which one of them had a better sunset but the Kumta Beach offered one of the most beautiful ones I’ve ever witnessed( even in Andamans, Pondicherry or Goa). Kumta is a Muslim dominated town with most of the people being fishermen and farmers.

So the thing about Kumta beach is that when you get there, you’d find the waves all receded and the sun hiding behind this small little hillock. Climb up to that hillock right away to watch the sun drown into the ocean. It looked hugeee and the ocean breeze on the top felt soothing. The sky was a pretty pink and orange and crimson…a blend of all my favorite colors at once. A little further ahead on another small raised piece of land is a viewpoint with benches which seemed to be swamped with people who had come to see the sunset. I found our spot much more peaceful where we sat for almost an hour listening to my favorite Coldplay song….Till Kingdom Come!

That fiery ball of fire! The picture doesnt do justice to it!

A few mins of walk from here would take you to the Vannalli Beach which is quite neat and clean and has tons of boats docked along the shore…probably one of the cleanest in Kumta. Here again one would find benches along the roadside..makes an ideal place to sit after your evening walk. Climb the hill at the end of the beach here to proceed further up to Mangodlu beach, a virgin beach cut off as compared to others. Perfect for a dip after that tiring walk. Yet another climb to a hilltop shall get you to Kadle Beach that was our home for the evening.

HQPW0899 — Best Konkan food ever! Also Last time i had non veg!

We had the best dinner on this trip at 5th mile resort with a typical Konkan preparation. The following morning awaited some misadventures and an early morning start of the hike to Gokarna through some forest gump and hurricane trails!

Day 2…KUMTA TO GOKARNA TREK

For the first time in my life i was up and ready before Tee. This walking along the beaches and climbing the hillocks around was a good trailer for the rest of the hike. We started of around 6 am, the air had a slight nip in it and the only sound we heard from our room was of the cascading waves kissing the shore. It was still dark but we decided to leave nonetheless for the plan was to cover up as much distance as possible before the sun showed up. Beach Hopping found an all new meaning today! Never did we think of hiking through umpteen virgin as well as touristy beaches.

Starting our hike at 6 am from Kadle Beach!

The cool breeze courtesy the ocean waves felt so comforting! Colorful boats dawned the shore, crabs crawled their way through the wet shimmering sand and the sun, struggled to rise up, changing the hues of the sky, creating all the orange magic. While we walked soaking in all this beauty around us, there was one not so pretty sight that i must mention of! This ritual seemed to be peculiar to this place for i had never witnessed it in Andamans or even Goa. A row of fishermen were often seen pooping on the beach, calculatively placing themselves in such a way that the waves do the necessary cleaning up for them! One had to be careful of not walking into them or even stepping on to the pile of not so pleasant human dung 😛

Walking on the dry sand wasn’t easy. We walked a total of about 6 kms until we reached The Nirvana Beach. We decided to stop by at one of the lodgings by the beach for our breakfast, called Nirvana Nature.This place screamed QUIRK! Bright colorful tree houses, hammocks and beach beds laid under the thick cover of trees, thatched and mud walled huts for stays and small lil ponds adorned with lotus and tiny boats! Though most of them had no ACs and one had to use common washrooms but the place exuded the warmth and magic that would instantly make you fall in love with it. We gobbled down two heavy parathas, listening to constant chattering of these young college kids on the side, a trailer of the GOSSIP GIRL SEASON 8 😉 Not judging..all in good humor though.

Nirvana was the last beach on this stretch and one now had to start climbing the Nirvana Cliff, a small hillock again which flaunts these old fort ruins of Kagal Fort. A road down below ran parallel to the hillock and is a shorter and easier route to the River Jetty. But the trails always seemed more tempting and so we stuck around the road less taken for how could we avoid the adventure that awaited us( read taking wrong trails)

After crossing the turn for Heaven Beach!

After climbing quite some distance, a trail descended down on right towards The Heaven Beach. We decided to carry on straight for the map we followed showed no route from Heaven beach to the Aghanashini River Jetty. Dense bushes guarded the trail from either sides but there were no tall trees to give us a respite from the sun. One could now see the river on the left and Gokarna on its other side. Then why were we going towards right. Not just going…climbing!

Aghannashinni river jetty on the left…while getting lost on the hike!

We decided to get down and go in the direction of the river until we reached this stone boundary wall that was being built there. The sun was fierce by now and i was bathing in my own sweat! I told Tee to go find out the trail ahead for i needed a break from the sun! I crashed under a tree, lying down on the mud, listening to the birds chirping and just nothingness around. The silence was often interrupted by the sound of the jetty somewhere in the distance. It seemed so close yet we couldn’t find a trail that went down towards it. Tee came back asking me to follow him in the same direction. He had apparently found out the trail which was actually a washed out piece of land that eventually disappeared into a steep downfall!

Taking wrong trails that were washed out by rains! Phew!

Gosh! This meant we were to climb up to the patch where i laid down, all over again! If only i could murder this boy! All the blogs instructed to go to Heaven beach but my stubborn husband wanted to explore. And so we decided to take the first route instead where we went in the opposite direction of the river.After reaching the hill top one could now see a narrow trail going down towards a construction site where a cow was tied outside in the verandah of the house that was being constructed. Sooner we reached the road that lead to the village with the jetty! Phew!

finally closing towards The Jetty! The spic and span Konkan Villages

The jetty can even take your two wheelers along. We paid all of 20 bucks each to get on the other side…The side we’d call home for the following two days…GOKARNA!! TO BE CONTD….

Air Land Or Sea…The transportation in India is always so jampacked!

Things to do in Kumta

1. Beach Hopping….Already given the various beaches on the post. My favorite sunset point would be Kumta Beach.

2. Ride up to Yana Caves and Vibhuti Falls…beautiful countryside roads…Details given in the post.

3. Check out the Mirjan Fort and its ruins. Just 12 kms from the Kumta Town.

4, Keladi and Ikkeri…If you have enough time on your hands and are a history buff, check out these two towns for all the historical temples and museum charm it offers.

5. Some falls around Kumta are….Muregar Falls, Vibhuti Falls, Bennehole Falls, Unchalli Falls, Shivganga Falls etc.

That Day In Tirthan!

While talking to Soni, a resident of the village Baandal, i learnt that Tirthan ( that she called Tirth) is far behind the lofty mountains as she pointed across towards the dark cloud kissed magnificent snowy peaks! A tad bit confused, i asked her, aren’t we in Tirthan… I mean isn’t this village in Tirthan to which she replied “ Ye Tirth ke aas pass ka ilaaka hai, asli Tirthan toh wahaan hai, baraf waale pahaadon mein”! ( We are just the neighbors!)

IMG-20190211-WA0050 — Villages of Tirthan…

IMG_20190101_235543_545 — Himachal is slowly becoming ‘My Bhutan’

So Well! I’m still not sure which all places constitute the Valley but going by all the blog posts on Tirthan and since Wiki Links doesn’t share much about the valley, i shall claim to have done a tinyyy bit of Tirthan! The valley, located in the Kullu district, gets its name from the river Tirthan that winds on all the way from the glacial springs of Hanskund Peak in the Great Himalayan National Park that further lies in parts of Parvati, Sainj and Tirthan Valley.

IMG-20190211-WA0066 — The crystal clear waters of Tirthan River

After spending a day and a half at Jibhi, we decided to stay put at Banjaar and explore Tirthan. A point to note here would be, Banjaar is a crowded town with not much to see but falls mid way between Jibhi and Tirthan. So if you don’t have enough time on your hands like us( read only a day or two to wander around), you might as well book a stay in Tirthan, preferably at Gushaini or Nagini or even high up at Sarchi! Most of the villages in the valley no matter how remotely located they are have home stays readily available . Its raining resorts and camps in the Valley, a sight not so pleasant yet that works well for the local hardworking villagers but if only they along with the responsible tourists don’t let it affect the surroundings!

Well so after dumping our bags at The Blue Sheep BnB at Banjaar, we decided to drive up to Gushaini. It was late afternoon already and even though we wanted to hike around, the weather with dark gloomy clouds didn’t really approve of our plans. The drive up to Gushaini was breathtaking. The narrow road, traversed along the Tirthan river that gushed with icy cold pure blue water. Tiny villages dotted the mountains around and the clouds played hide and seek in the backdrop. While a drive up to Pekhri and further up to Rangthar seemed tempting, but we decided to just sit by the river and let the dogs swim around near Pali.. Back in Bhutan, Dasher and Haachu lived an unleashed life, going for their daily dips in the river Haachu, and this was a perfect chance for them to revisit those blissful bygone happy times they spent (two years) in the lap of the Himalayas!

IMG-20190211-WA0060 — Dasher and Haachus own river pool!

Later that evening we played with Oreo( the blue sheep pet) and shared some mountain stories with Leena over a drink for she too was spending the weekend at Blue Sheep! While talking we realized, that though i spent two years in the Himalayas in a foreign land and she in our own Himachal, but the stories revolved around the same warmth shown both by the natives and the mountains of course 🙂

IMG-20190211-WA0055 — Momo..our new friend at Blue Sheep Tirthan Stay

Bandal

IMG-20190211-WA0059 — The famous Durga Temple At Baandal

You can never go wrong by listening to your friend from the mountains. I was told by Rajeshwar to go explore the Sarchi Village but what laid before hitting Sarchi was a pleasant surprise gift that Tirthan gifted us that morning. The idyllic temple that looked Kinnauri in architect, caught our eye instantly and we decided to visit the village that flaunted it. Bandal stood all proud, perched on a hilltop with undisturbed views of the gigantic peaks half clothed in clouds in GNHP. A narrow trail along the apple orchards, took us to the center of the hamlet where this intricately carved temple, The Gara Durga Temple, made of wooden and stone slabs, shone all bright in pinks and greens!

IMG-20190211-WA0057 — The trail leading to Bnadal along the apple orchards

Unfortunately the temple was closed but the best part of the visit was yet to come. Bonding with the villagers! Yayy! Its funny how the anti social me gets all pumped up about meeting new folks and spending time with them in the mountain villages. And no matter how Cliche and absurd it might sound, but i do feel like belong here. Having said that i don’t deny how ruthlessly tough the life in these villages is and i don’t have half the might and strength the locals do, but deep down inside, probably after spending those two years in Haa Valley Bhutan, the rugged dirty unpaved roads feel more like home than those brightly lit manicured ones in the city! Like i always say…,Things The Mountains Do To You!

IMG-20190211-WA0061 — A zoomed in view of the temple As clicked from a villagers house

While walking around the village, we befriended these kids who took us around, showing us who lived where, disclosing their funny pet names they gave to each other, taking us to their apple orchards, narrating some amusing folklore, discussing their geography chapters and dramatically cautioning us to be safe while hiking around for they lost some villagers in the forest doing the same! I still remember how dramatically, this kid on being asked about the trek to a waterfall closeby told us with his animated expressions “ Hamare gaon ke ek aadmi khai me gir gaya aur uski body bhi nahi mili…raasta bahut patla hai..wahaan mat jaana”! While this other one talked about his favorite subject ‘Bhugol” Geography in Hindi where he learnt that these mountains they lived in was ocean once! Geography being my favorite, i further elaborated the factors that caused the same! Uff! Once a Teacher…Always a Teacher!

IMG-20190211-WA0044 — Befriending the natives!

A little later while wandering down this dim lit alley, i found a girl hanging by her wooden veranda, smiling, as though she’d want me to come say Hi to her! Her house was a simple wooden one made of Deodar, a traditional wide window framed with a huge outside porch. I climbed up to her main door that lead to the airy well lit sit out with astonishing views as far as one could see. One could even see the temple top clearly and the other bright walled houses around. The shoes were impeccably kept outside on the wooden bench next to the door, signalling me to take my shoes off before i entered. A vibrant orange tree adorned the entrance that was loaded with fruits. A young girl swept the floor, approaching towards the door. I asked her if it were okay to come visit her simple yet beautiful abode. She like most of the villagers I’ve come across was happy to have me there.

IMG-20190211-WA0038 — This Pretty Abode!

That little girl who hung by the window sill, was this one’s daughter! Another toddler pranced around…her second child! I asked her how old she was….She was barely 21, with kids as old as 6 and 3! A gentle warmhearted soul, she offered me tea and told me to be comfortable! She then showed me the valley from her window, marking territories with her fingers, telling me how the mountains across were the real Tirth! She knew her land remarkably well! I asked her if i could click her and she readily agreed to pose along with her kids. I could see she was elated like any other girl on being asked to click. Later i showed her the pictures and asked her if i could transfer it to her but sigh, the young lass didn’t have a smartphone! May be Id visit her again next time and give her a hard copy of it!

IMG-20190211-WA0034 — The Young Lass with her kids!!

Later while leaving for Sarchi, on getting to know that we had two furry tails accompanying us in the car, the kids were excited to tag along till the parking to say Hi to them. And just how we befriend village Doggos every time on our trips, my city dogs too earned some pals this time. After playing a bit with kids, Dasher as seen in the picture was sad to say Goodbye to them!

IMG-20190211-WA0054 — Goodbyes are always tough!

Sarchi ( 15kms from Gushaini)

While Bandal had already created some magic for the starters, the lonely road ahead to Sarchi Village along with Prateek Kuhaad singing on the car stereo anddd the clouds coming down with flurries only made the drive even more memorable. The little bit of snowy peaks that one could see sometime back now were engulfed with clouds and as we went higher, the valley looked more and more surreal. A km short of Sarchi, i told Tee to drop me off for i wanted to walk in the snow flurries, watching the clouds drift by. Colorful wooden paneled houses were now visible with the peaks of Great Himalayan National Park in the backdrop and terrace fields of Corn and Ganja adorned the way. It all looked like one of those wallpapers i saw for the first time on the computers back when we were kids in the 90s. No one could believe then that such places really did exist!

IMG-20190211-WA0033 — Terrace Fields and the lofty mountains in the backdrop!

The kids with bright red burnt cheeks ran around, giggling and counting numbers in Hindi. We decided to have Chai in one of the Tea Shops and the mandatory Maggie in the mountains. While sitting in the tea shop, a bunch of guys were moving into the home stay. Curious to find out about the rates in this far flung village i asked one of the guys how much they’re paying for the day. 4 of them paid around 1500 for a day..group traveling is always so economical!

IMG-20190211-WA0046 — These lil red cheeked munchkins!

At the center of the village, rested a medieval time temple, dedicated to the local deity called Jagdamba Rishi. The temple is made out of wood and has a massive tree trunk in the center which is replaced every year by the villagers on the annual religious occasion.

IMG-20190211-WA0065 — The Ancient Temple of Sarchi!

Meanwhile two Pawiies came along with us, scouring around the village, taking us through the by lanes with steel and aluminium pots adorning the porches and piles of hay lining the fields. Everyone here seemed to live in harmony! I simply sat on one of the farms with Tee and other two dogs, reveling in the beautiful silence and the songs of the mountains that i just made up in my head….

IMG-20190211-WA0048 — Walking Down the village alleys with Brownie!

The snow flurries kissed my skin

This never-land i was in

Echoed of innocent children’s laughs

Wrinkled faces hidden in their scarfs

Where my bones hurt but my heart just smiled

I ran around like this wildest child

Chasing the clouds that danced along

Together we moved to the mountains song!

IMG_20190106_091641_830 — While we sat here at this patch staring at those giants..This guy gave me company all along..

What to See/Do around Bandal and Sarchi

Lambri Top…Sarchi serves as a base for the hike up to Lambri Top. An hour up from Sarchi lies the quaint cut off village of Jamala
Explore and hike up to the villages of Talinga and Shalinga close to Gushaini
Hike up to the much famous Chhoie Waterfall
Trek Up to Bashelo Pass.. a total of 20kms that can be done in two days with camping around the mountains.
Trek up to Rangthar Top… Trail starts from Pekhri Village. Rangthar lies in the eco zone of GHNP but the permit is not required.

Oh My Jibhi!!

DAY 1

Whizzing under the azure blue sky on the highway, CCR hummed The Cotton Fields in my ears while the Punjab roads flaunted their archaic mustard fields along the highway! A dozen cows turning out to be more effective than the concrete speed breakers and the village boys huddled in their thick woolen shawls with elephantine milk tumblers hanging by their bikes, raced along our car! The end of December chill made the morning sun feel so damn good and my two furry sons in the backseat seemed to enjoy it the most for they hung their necks outside the window, flapping their ears and wagging their tails! And why wouldn’t they wag! We were home bound! We were on our way to the mountains momma!

This year had been all about road trips to Himachal and her valleys. After Fagu, Narkanda, Sangla, Chitkul, Spiti and Kangra, it was time to explore a little bit of Tirthan. Yes..little as we could spare only three days but spent that time exactly how we wanted in the therapeutic lap of nature.

Having read about the verdant valley of Tirthan with endless pines, gushing river and streams, sparkling waterfalls, exhilarating hikes and winding trails, it seemed like a perfect getaway for us with our Doggos! Could i find a better way to start the new year! Of Course Not!

A six hours drive (that became 8 to 9 hrs courtesy a bad jam just before hitting Aut) through ever changing landscapes lead us to Jibhi! Having wasted almost 2 to 3 hours being stuck in a jam, which also displayed some impudent behavior of a bunch of travelers driving on the same highway. These four guys from Delhi who clearly seemed to be drunk,threw plastic bottles out of their car while waiting in the never ending Que in the jam, smoked publicly clicking pictures of themselves while stripping their shirts out! Yikes! Such an eyesore! Moreover i was annoyed to see how unabashedly they created all the ruckus, on this land they traveled to for fun or vacation! Wonder what the mountains and river must think of us humans!

We reached Larji (a hydel power project on the Beas) only by the sunset hour and boy it looked surreal! I was so exhausted by the journey especially by the endless wait at the jam, and only hoped that the BnB we had booked turned out to be nice though i really hadn’t expected much for the options available in pet friendly stays are mostly scanty and doesn’t meet your needs every time! But Leenas Place took me by surprise! It was by far the best stay ever in Himachal! A hugeee wooden room with a beautiful veranda and a balcony with astounding views anddd the thing i’m the most finicky about when not backpacking…yep the washroom! It had boiling hot running water 24.7 and a flawlessly clean space! We had a quick early meal for two treks awaited us the following morning ( trust the boys to give you some serious fitness goals!

img-20190128-wa0008 — The oh so cosy Leenas Place!

DAY 2

If there’s any place on earth where i’d stick to my new year resolution of waking up early morning, it’s got to be here in the mountains! No matter how insanely cold or how knackered i would be, the body doesn’t need an alarm here! And well in our case the two furry balls make sure anyway that we’d be up before anyone else on the planet to take them out! And so our day started at 6! It was still quiet dark and freezing cold outside! While lazing around in the bed, sipping on our black coffee, the huge glass windows let the faint sunlight seep in! The sun crawled up on our side of the valley but i couldn’t help envying the mountain on the other side of the river for it basked in the morning sunlight and those houses that stood the highest beamed haughtily! Well! ‘Never mind’, i heard the river murmur! ‘You get to see me up-close!’

img-20190128-wa0017 — Our Boys… Dasher and Haachu chilling in the balcony

We had to leave by 8 for Jalori Pass to start our short trek. While getting ready, i happened to trip over Dasher( my brown Labrador) who was camouflaging with the brown carpet like a boss! My knees bruised and palms all scratched were just the starters for an adventure that we can’t seem to do without on all our trips to the mountains ;P especially Himachal! Lata ( the caretaker) was sweet enough to give in to my request of making Siddu for breakfast. I wanted Tee to taste it this time and like always he didn’t like what i like! Hmph! Talk about opposites attract

img-20190128-wa0010 — Dasher clearly cant get enough of those views!

The sumo trudged on the narrow road that ran along the Jibhi Naala! As we got farther from the town, the hustling river bickered only louder and the number of houses dropped along with the temperature. I with Tee, Dasher n Haachu, stared out of the car window, in awe of those Himalayas, clothed in white in a winter shawl, under a clear blue sunny sky! Giving in to my urge of getting out at Shoja to click some landscape pictures, we took a short pit stop!

img_20190128_161719_214 — The Sleepy Hamlet of Shoja!

The hamlet boasts of a few houses perched on terrace fields,their doors and windows opening up to wondrous views of the magnificent Himalayan ranges. Shoja also has a couple of home-stays and lodgings and looks like a perfect getaway from the now touristy Jibhi. A few minutes later, driving through steep snow kissed roads we landed at Jalori Pass, a high mountain pass at an elevation of 10800 ft amsl, that connects Shimla district to Tirthan. Owing to its not so high altitude, its open mostly all around the year. The Pass also has two or three Chai shops with some snacks to eat.

img-20190128-wa0005 — Jalori Pass! Catching Tee catching the birds!

img-20190128-wa0007 — Dasher and Tee while me and Haachu trail behind!

We decided to trek up to Raghupur fort first since this was shorter as compared to Serolsar Lake. (3.5km as compared to 6 kms) After asking the driver and a local tea shop for directions all four of us started our hike up to Raghupur, just like old times in Bhutan. It was after ages that Dasher and Haachu ran around unleashed chasing birds, rolling over the Himalayan meadows, taking a million detours yet leading us on trails like Sherpas. Being early morning, we found ourselves to be the only ones trekking up to Raghupur. After half a km of down slope on the main road, we hit the serene jungle trail. The trees swayed and the winds hummed to the tunes of nature. The dense forest cover occasionally gave way to open spaces in between giving us views like never before. ‘How incredible must it be on the top’ i thought to myself. About 40 mins later, we hit this patch of ice which was an up climb. While the boys moved forward, i took baby steps here for it was horribly slippery and my trekking pole could not dig in. Dasher and Haachu turned around to give me a look “ oh come on woman…hurry up..stop walking like an oldie..we’re missing out on a countless smells’!

As pretty as the snow might look, it does have a villainous side to it as well 😛 After crossing the patch we figured the trail ahead was going down throughout! Ummm have we faltered again…While Tee and I kept playing the blame game during one of the beach treks we did in Gokarna this vacation, i couldn’t get myself to do that here! It was way too cold to fight with the husband 😛 and the boys followed him everywhere ( i would have been singled out by my male chauvinistic family :p ). We realized the trek was about climbing up. If after 45 mins were still going down that means were up to no good. Tee and I decided to head back half way and find a trail that’s going up. And i’m glad we did. Another half an hour later we were on top. A meadow stretched out across and a gradual climb lead to the fort ruins. Raghupur is situated in such a strategical way that it gives you 360 degree panoramic views of the Dhauladhars and the Himalayas as well. A maze of blue mountains criss crossing each other stood their engulfed in haze and shining under the bright winter sun. It looked unreal. I wanted to count the number of ridge lines but they disappeared into each others beings. I scribbled these lines in my head…

img-20190128-wa0015 — That MountainSCape!

Those contours so inaccurately i drew long ago as a kid

Standing on that rock, rewinding i mow open the lid

I had only sketched them in my drawing book

Along with a sun and house with a rickety fence and a flowing brook

So one day i climbed to see what laid beyond

Only to find plenty more like they all shared a bond

Looks like i drew them wrong all this while

If only i could reach that shelf with my drawing file!

While the other side one could see the magnificent Dhauladhars, stretching out till infinity! Haachu ran along the fort ruins and Dasher followed Tee. A small stone chortan stood beside looking down at the valley. It took me back to those countless hikes i did in Bhutan. I remembered how my guides there told me to offer anything from leaves or flowers on the chortan and so i added another stone to the chortan, leaving my mark behind. I couldn’t thank Raghupur enough for all the magical moments.. Especially the ones our boys had, rolling in the snow, running around with no constraints like there were no tomorrow! While on our way back to Jalori we met a couple of warm villagers who were walking down to their village. On asking the lady about her village, she told me to tag along with her. I told her we were off to Serolsar now and i learnt that the wrong trail we took actually goes down to their village called Naati! I wish i had some more time on hands for i was so tempted to give her company to her hamlet! Sigh!

Serolsar Lake

img-20190130-wa0016 — Trail to Serolsar! Easiest Hike Ever!

Though Dasher and Haachu were far more charged than us, we decided to leave them behind in the car for unlike Raghupur, the track to Serolsar looked busy. Being the new years eve There were quite a few people hiking up to the lake that day which kind of put me off. But then again, i too was a part of the mob right! About 5 kms from the Jalori Pass and situated at a height of 3199 metres, is the lake surrounded by the thick alpine forests. The broad kaccha track gradually narrowed down to a hiking trail, hugged by pine trees creating a cool shaded ambiance throughout! The trek is real easy and not trying to flaunt here but we took 55 mins to hike one way while we were told minimum 2 hrs! And that actually has to do a lot with the fact that i did it with the husband who wanted to race up and back without taking frequent stops and revel in the beauty around! Argghhh! But then again i wasn’t really complaining, even after doing another trek just before this for the boys were waiting in the car and the guilty parents didn’t like them waiting tor us too long! Also because the trail was crowded and it was unlike the other hiking experiences we’ve had before, the kinds i don’t prefer! There were some trekkers playing loud music on their speakers, yelling around ‘ Dilli Waalo Apna Josh Dikhaon’! And dancing around and i know there’s nothing wrong in any of these doings but i somehow believe in respecting the place and doing right things at right places! I’m sure there are ample of places where one could yell around and listen to blaring music and dance around! Why turn the mountains and forests into an open club or lounge! ( call me old, i don’t care ;/)

After doing that marathon with the husband, i decided to lie down after reaching the lake while he wandered around the lake clicking pictures of the landscape and of some girls who asked him to click them and who apparently called him uncle ( reality check 😛 ) We had rajma chaawal in one of the shacks on our way back on the trail, ( i picked out rajma and left the rice)

The Folklore about Serolsar

There’s a temple of Budhi Nagin ( Snake goddess) next to the lake. It is said that the lake is very deep and the Nagin lived in a golden palace at the bottom of the lake. One day a Brahman from the Shoja village drowned himself and Budhi Nagin saved him, allowing him to stay in her palace for three years. Three years later on return to his village, he was repeatedly asked where he’d been to which he reluctantly revealed the true story. He died there and then and any of his descendants when tried going to the lake, either met with accidents or perished eventually. This family has a house in Shoja.

img_20190130_174845_972 — Budhi Nagin Temple.

There are options of staying available around Serolsar. One can even take tents for camping as there’s a meadow half way on the right while going towards the lake. Though it would be rude to call the lake average for I’ve done treks to some gorgeous lakes before both in India and Bhutan but for a good day trek it does fit the bill!

On our way back home, we gave a lift to three hitchhikers from Delhi. They came to Tirthan for just two days yet saw pretty much a lot of places. I like how even from their hectic schedules, they managed to take out time to travel to places like these. And even while their way of traveling and the places they covered were off my interest radar, but i instantly developed a liking for them for they traveled to many places in Himachal and Uttarakhand utilizing their weekends and whatever offs they had.

That night, while the world partied, welcoming 2019, the four of us snuggled in our blankets, sipping on some gin in our hip flasks, letting Kenny Sebastian humor us and later sleeping on the quietest yet the most fulfilling 31st Dec!

DAY 3 in Jibhi

img-20190130-wa0005 — MY Cuppa and that View!

We were moving to Banjaar today ( closer to Tirthan). But before that i had to tick off one thing off my list in Jibhi. Sitting by my huggeee bedroom glass window, i couldn’t help but stare at this green window framed house across the roaring river, hugged by apple orchards on all sides. A tiny bridge connected our side of the valley to this village called Tandi that looked somewhat unaffected by the hustling touristy town of Jibhi!

A few minutes later, giving in to my curiosity, i shed off my fancy beret and boots and quickly got into my hiking shoes. 40 mins later, i was at this green window house with two old ladies entering the porch just when i got in as though they knew i were coming to call them on.

img-20190130-wa0004 — The Green Window House in Tandi!

I happened to ask them if they were sisters, and pat came the reply from the older one telling, she’s the other ones mother in law. She had a haughty yet an innocent smile on her face that later turned out to be just another reason to fall in love with her.

img-20190130-wa0008 — My new mountain friends!

After telling them about my whereabouts they asked me to sit and have Chai with them. I told the old lady that i don’t take tea. She was like ‘ Sharaab Peeti Ho Kya”?

Conscious of being judged as ‘bigdi hui ladki’ (spoilt girl), i told her ‘of course not’!

To which she retorted, “pahaado mein toh peena zaruri hai, thand nahi lagti kya”?

So here i was talking to this 80 years old woman who never went to school, carrying off that septum piercing with all her grace and asking me to drink with her in this unheard village of Himachal. And i for a second was trying to be someone else but she all this while, at the fag end of her life, was as real as she could be!

She later talked about how their place evolved with just two houses in the village to this entire touristy settlement and how Jibhi metamorphosed into yet another crowded tourist destination in Himachal.. I couldn’t stop imagining the valley sans the concrete spam and the grandma then!

img-20190130-wa0011 — The farms around the house

On being asked to pose, she instantly took the scarf off her face and tried standing straight for a bit. And once again, in the middle of nowhere, a random wrinkled face, pulled me out of my thinking norm in ways i had never imagined! Things that mountains do to you!!

img-20190130-wa0010 — The Touristy Falls at Jibhi!

TRAVEL INFO ON JIBHI

One can drive up to Jibhi from Chandigarh/ Delhi either via Mandi Route or Via Shimla ( through Jalori Pass). The Mandi route is better though. its a total of 250 kms taking about 6 to 7 hours. We drove through Hamirpur …Mandi…before Aut Tunnel, take a right towards Tirthan…its about another 30 kms from here. Buses go till Aut. Hereafter one needs to catch a local bus or cab.
Jibhi, Tirthan, Shoja, all these places have ample of home stays and lodges. fret not if you haven’t booked your stay before doing an impromptu trip. Accommodations there are readily available.
Trekking, Angling and other outdoor activities is the best way to utilize time here.
Things to see here : Sharingi Bagi Temple, Chaini Fort Trek, Serolsar Lake and Raghupur Trek from Jalori, Dak Runners Trail Trek, Village Hopping, Jibhi Waterfall

A Travel Guide To Bhutan: The Last Shangri La!

This post has been long overdue. It’s been a year and a half since we moved out of the Thunder Dragon Land and honestly I haven’t ever been so smitten by any other place! It probably has to do a lot with the amount of time I spent there ( 2 blissful years) especially in Haa Valley for i’d never lived in a place so laid back, quaint and self satisfied before! And then it also stays close to my heart for her natives are just so very warm and embrace you like you were a part of their own tribe.Some places have left an indelible mark and for all the love my heart contains, i’d like you to see and know why should one visit this incredible Land…This land of Lamas, of daunting Himalayan Mountains and verdant enchanting valleys. Trying my hands on making you a Travel Guide that would help you in making your trip complete and memorable!

Bhutan has so many names..The Land of Drukyul, The Land of Thunder Dragon, The land with the highest GHP ( gross happiness index), The only country that’s carbon negative and so many other names! Yet It lives up to each one of them!!

Of Faith and Mountains…..a trek up from Chelela Pass!

To start with, you should have 10 days at-least to do justice to your vacation.But i understand the leave crisis we all experience at our workplaces and therefore shall give you a list of touristy things or places to visit while the non touristy things as well. You could incorporate it in your itinerary according to your interests and time available.

I shall make an eight days Itinerary with:

2 Days : Haa Valley

2 Days : Thimphu City

1 Day: Punakha Valley

1 Day: Phobjikha Valley

2 Days: Paro Valley

If you have even more days with you, try doing Bumthang ( the Switzerland of Bhutan) and Laya and Gasa too! I couldn’t cover these places but do intend to go back someday!

You’re welcome to change it according to your interests in the places after reading the blog.

For the starters here’s some important info you should know before planning your trip

Bhutan currency is known as Ngultrum which has an equivalent exchange rate with the Indian Rupee. But the best part is the Indian Rupee works very well in Bhutan so one doesn’t need to get into the currency exchange business.
One can travel to Bhutan by air as well as road. Both have their own charm but the road trip obviously needs more time.
Road Trip: One can catch a flight till Bagdogra and hire a cab or drive up in your own car. The immigration is done at Phuntsholing ( the border town on Bhutan side next to Jaigaon in India). A thing to note here would be that the immigration office is closed on the weekends and their national holidays so plan your trip accordingly. Other route is from Assam, the border town known as Samdrup Jongkhar.
The entry permit released on arrival is legitimate for Thimphu, Paro and Phuentsholing only. Travelers desirous of going to other towns need to obtain a route permit from the immigration office at Thimphu on any weekday.
You do not need a Visa to travel to Bhutan. A passport or a voter id card is good enough.
On reaching, one can buy the local sim cards Tashicell or B Mobile.
There are two flights that operate from India. Druk Air and Tashi Airlines from Delhi, Calcutta and Bombay,Bagdogra and Guwahati.

The magnificent Mt Everest as seen from the plane’s window!

A lot of people ask me the ideal time to visit Bhutan. It all depends on what you want to see. For greenery and waterfalls around, one could plan a visit in summer and monsoons while for the winter snow charm, December to first week April is a good time.

Keep a lookout for Mt Everest on your left side while traveling to Bhutan and on your right when heading back to India.

If you plan to go for long hikes, do carry Diamox with you. Also like any other mountain place, the weather here is pretty erratic, so don’t forget to pack your umbrellas and down jackets.

Try local cuisines while you’re there. My favorite is Ema Datshi, a dish made out of local cheese and chillies.

One can use the local greetings while venturing out in villages and towns. KUZUZAMPOLA means Hello. KADRINCHEY means Thank You.. TASHI DELEK means Good Luck.

Haa Valley( 2 Days)

Well I had to start with my favorite!! Haa is a hidden Himalayan Jewel in Western Bhutan.Out of 20 dzongkhags or districts in Bhutan, Haa is the second least populated after Gasa. Another name for Haa is Hidden Land Rice Valley! The river Haachu flows through the valley , stemming from the magnificent Mt Jumolhari ( the second highest peak of Bhutan). If you’re looking for a quiet peaceful getaway or interesting adventures in an off beat land, this place is your haven.

IMG-20181130-WA0072 — Mt Jumolhari as seen from one of the treks in Chelela…the second highest peak in Bhutan!

Touristy Things

Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo..also known as the white temple and black temple respectively. This is where the famous Haa Tshechu festival is annually conducted with mask dance and many other activities. Do enquire about the fabled white and black pigeons from the lamas there.

Takchu Gompa… One of the prominent Gompas of Haa, it has been reconstructed after the devastating earthquake in 2009. One can either enjoy a hike up to this place from Dumcho Village or a bike ride on the unpaved track is a good idea too!

Damthang .. The last border village up to which tourists are permitted. Famous for its vast meadows and gushing stream-lets. One cannot cross the Royal Bhutan Army Post, this being the last point at Damthang.

One of the many wooden sheds in Damthang

Haa Dzong… The erstwhile seat of Bhutanese administration which now houses the Indian Military Training Team, situated along the Haachu river is a must visit. Do check out the Imtrat Souvenir Shop for reasonably quoted brass items and other things.

Haa Market… Shop for chinese brocade and local fabrics.

Non Touristy Things

Village Explorings

I’ve had countless Alice in Wonderland Moments in my Haa Valley. The idea in this part of the country should be to just lie down and unwind, for every village here offers you bright green meadows with ever constant Haachu river brimming by.Following are some villages that one could walk down to or hike up to, explore all you can while you’re there.

Cycle Rides in my favorite village Paeso

Countless streams…This one at the Bhagena Village!

Dumcho, Paeso, Bhagena and Gurena are some of the villages that are situated down below in the valley itself in and around the dzong. These hamlets boast of endless streams, authentic bhutanese homes including some homestays that offer a hot stone bath and delectable bhutanese dishes. I explored all of them and many more in and out on my own asking villagers around. Why am mentioning this is so that you don’t hesitate venturing out solo! Locals there are very warm and helpful.

IMG-20181130-WA0078 — Hiking in Sankhri Village!

While Sankhri, Pajekha and Chuzokha are villages on top of the mountains with neon green paddy fields and astounding views of the valley down below. Honestly though Punakha is known for its paddies but villages like Sankhri give you some incredible views just before the harvest time!

Day Picnics with Friends n Family

Honestly every bend and corner in Haa makes a perfect picnic spot but here are some of my favorites

Yamthang Meadows….On your way to Damthang, there’s a small village called Yamthang. A huge green meadow lays beside this Bhutanese school called Chundu Central School. The meadow boasts of hosting a yearly religious festival called the Chundu Soekha. One can find a huge tall prominent tree there on the ground which has a huge religuous significance amongst the locals. If you go further down the meadow, you hit a big iron suspension bridge hanging over the Haachu river. Every spot here is inviting so plan a picnic this side for sure. Please do not litter.

The Meri Puensum Trail View Point: A short hike up from Haa on to the Chalela Road, you’d find this board displaying the same. A narrow trail about a km long leads one to the Birds Eye View of the Haa Valley. They even have a proper cemented sit out.

My personal favorite is this meadow patch by the river in Gurena Village. Right after crossing the wooden bridge on the entrance to the village, one takes a right turn and walk towards the river. I always took all my dear ones there while they visited bhutan.

Treks to High Altitude Hidden Gems

Bhutan is a land blessed with numerous lakes, So many of them are in Haa itself. And a good long trek to these make a perfect adventure activity.

Nubt Sonapata Lake… If you have enough time in Haa, i’d totally recommend this trek! Spectacular views of the Himalayan ranges, living with yak herders, witnessing different landscapes, crossing three mountain passes and a glimpse of Kanchanjunga as well along ofcourse with this gorgeous tartan lake!! Time required is minimum 3 days. I shall give you my guides contact details towards the end of the post for this particular trek cannot be done without help.

Lake Tahlela..A day long trek to a small hidden lake in the mountains. The hike starts from Dana Dinkha gompa and one is again advised to do it with a locals help[. I had requested the Head Lama of the monastery for help and he sent his students along with us paying them some amount.

The Meri Puensum Trek ( The Three Mountains) A trek across the three brother mountains of Haa Valley who are regarded as the deities and protectors of the valley, makes a good day hike again gifting one with spectacular views of the valley as well as the Himalayan ranges. The trek starts from the Paeso Village near Dumcho.

A bike ride up to Tagola Pass is worth a try if you’re a biking enthusiast. While the road up to Chalela is well paved, the track up to Tagola is every off roading bikers dream.

One of the three passes enroute Nubtshonapata!

Easy Day Hikes to Some Beautiful Hidden Gompas on Hill Top

Dana Dinkha Gompa: A beautiful gompa perched on a hill top with a 360 degree view of the Yamthang n Damthang side. Apart from housing some lamas, the gompa also has two nuns living in retreat. This place is also the starting point for the trek to Tahlela Lake. The hike up tp the gompa starts from the Ingo Village.

Kachu And Junedra Gompa.. Both the gompas are situated on the hilltop in the heart of Haa town in a village called Kachu behind the Bali BHU hospital. Junedra is my personal favorite for it hangs on a cliff top, in the middle of absolute wilderness with enchanting pines and endless roaring streams. This particular gompa also boasts of having Guru Rimpocheys footprints.

The Crystal Cliff Temple…A hike up to this Mini Tigers Nest is an absolute refreshing date with the nature. The trek starts from Dumcho Village. Do not miss this out.

Chuzokha Gompa… this one holds a special place in my heart for a hike up to this gompa was my first ever hike in snowfall and almost 2 feet deep snow! It’s absolutely cut off and is run by an old lady and her husband. The hike up to this village and gompa starts from a village called Gurena that comes after the very prominent Kanha village.

Visiting Local Home stays

I shall attach a list of local home stays, where in some of them even offer day visits to their kitchens for classes on making honteys(a local momo dish made of buckwheat) , yak cheese, refreshing hot stone bath facilities and many other interesting activities.

Festivals of Haa Valley

Haa Summer Festival… a lively uplifting celebration of traditional living culture, nomadic lifestyles, sports, cuisines etc. Its organised by the Tourism Council of Bhutan. Dates for this year are July 13 2019 to July 14 2019. Organised at the Town Festival Ground.

The Cham dance at Lhakhang Karpo during Tshechu !

Haa Tshechu…A Buddhist festival organised at the Lhakhang Karpo. Involves many traditional dances and activities including the famous mask dance.

One of the many gambling stalls in Haa Mela!

Haa Mela…organised by the IMTRAT in the month of October where many schools in the valley display their talents. Various food, games, clothes, souvenirs stalls are put by the locals.

Here’s a list of home stays in Haa

Haa also has two resorts..

Heritage Resort in Damthang
Risum Resort near Haa Market

I was lucky to get to know Kencho Pema and Ugyen. All of them are certified guides and charge nominal rates. They were the warmest and took care of me when i was unwell during hikes like i were a part of their own family. Giving you their contact details in case you need help with treks or sight seeing

Kencho +97517868554
Pema +97517638362
Ugyen +97577363712

A special thanks to Kencho and Tsering Choden who are always there to help me out with all the whereabouts of Bhutan. These two are my very own Bhutan Encyclopedia! Do follow them on Instagram for beautiful updates from the dragon land!

An itinerary for Thimphu and Paro shall soon follow up!

TALAI : The Mystic Hermit of the Mountains!

You chance upon some places due to sheer serendipity. And that’s how Fagu happened to me! ( wowiee that even rhymes eh!)

I was meeting Ravjot after 16 long years. The last we were together was in 11th grade, back in 2002 in Army School Ratnuchak (Jammu). Her moving out to UK never made it easy to catch up, nonetheless we were on and off in touch on video calls and whatsapp. This time around she was visiting Chandigarh and both of us looked forward to the reunion. She asked me to plan a two day itinerary for us and obviously I had to involve those enormous giants, around whom, off late all my vacations revolved around…THE MYSTICAL MOUNTAINS!

IMG-20181116-WA0037 — Endless mountainscapes in Fagu!

I love Chandigarh for its proximity to the hills. Though the nearest hill station apart from Dharampur was Simla but having lived there for a couple of months before, I knew how insanely touristy and commercialized this town had become. The urge was to break away from the crowd madness and so the search for places began. Places that had least number of tags on Instagram..Purely offbeat, in today’s socially connected world!

I love instagram for I found so many amazing people with similar interests in hikes and mountains. One such girl in my friend list messaged me, out of the blue suggesting me to do a particular hike in Himachal (close to Chandi). A message from her just when I was looking for a getaway was a good travel sign. But sigh, with all my Himachal trips in the last five months what remained constant was an erratic bad weather and this time too, a snowstorm was predicted. Many on Instagram suggested against the hike that week and so my search started for a simple village homestay where we could live with a local family away from the town, nestled in the mountains and doing easy day hikes, exploring the hamlets around.

Like most of the trips earlier, Fagu too happened when i stumbled upon this girl’s blog. Her simple words and pictures flashing the stunning views didn’t take me too long to zero down on TALAI village! Last moment toy train tickets were booked & after a bit of research we found out the contact details of a homestay and booked it, so randomly while reading her blog at a cafe with Ravjot. Mr Sharma made it sound so inviting and so the two of us, set out on a journey to the mountains that I can never get enough of! Never ever!

Day 1 : Fagu bound!

5;30AM Kalka Railway Station

IMG-20181117-WA0045 — Kalka Station at the break of Dawn!

Its funny how on a vacation to your much loved destinations, you never sulk about being sleepy or any misadventures coming your way. A deserted station with countless Mynas chirping around made us forget the fact that the train was late by an hour. This was my fourth journey after 2012 on this train but it felt as incredible as the first ride.

IMG-20181117-WA0053 — The Victorian Era bridges!

IMG-20181117-WA0046 — Chasing the sunrise!

The advantage of embarking on an early morning ride is the dramatic views of the hills under the splendid dawn lit sky and the glimpse of the ever so hypnotic sunrise outside your train window, rising over those looming Shivaliks.

The toy train crosses a total of 107 tunnels and 864 bridges built all along the route and has been added to the Mountain Railways of India world heritage site by the UNESCO.

IMG-20181117-WA0048 — Ravjot and the mountains were my muse for the day!

The five and a half hours of journey whizzed past over coffee and conversations with my school time friend and pouring into a good read for a while, accompanied by the camera shutter going off innumerable times too. We giggled like two lil teenagers remembering our teachers and classmates from school while the train chugged through the dense Deodar forests, trailing along the little hamlets perched on the hillocks. An era had been left far behind but I’m glad we picked up exactly from where we left 🙂

IMG-20181119-WA0051 — Tea break at Dharampur!

At around 12 we reached Simla. A bunch of cab drivers and hotel guides hoarded around us. We had to catch a bus for Fagu which is around 30 kms away from Shimla and falls enroute Narkanda. The Lakkar Bazar bus stop was only 2 kms away so we decided to walk up to the stop instead of giving in to the exorbitant rates that the cab drivers charged. Most of them quoted Rs 250 while a local woman told us that we shouldn’t pay more than Rs 100. While the fare wasn’t that big an amount but we were on a strict budget trip, and therefore planned to walk the distance and later traveled by an HRTC bus instead of catching a comfortable ride in a cab.( You see the more you save, the more trips you could make…HAPPY REALIZATION :p)

IMG-20181119-WA0048 — Winding tracks taking you all the way up to the mountains!

After grabbing a quick bite at the mall road ( check out Wake and Bake cafe and Gaiety Club) we walked down towards lakkar bazaar, crossing the tibetan market that had countless momo stalls! Sigh! Greeted by a disinterested lousy old man at the ticket counter, we decided to get it directly from the bus conductor. Luckily the bus had quite a few seats unoccupied and we got in, occupying the front seats to avoid motion sickness. The ticket to Fagu costed us 70 bucks for two people.

IMG-20181114-WA0075 — That rickety HRTC bus ride!

The motion sickness decided to spare me this time and apart from fretting over the daring bus driver’s rough driving skills and digging my nails a countless times into my friend’s arm, I think I did pretty okay! And while sitting on my seat, excitedly looking outside WOWing away to glory, I realised though i was the only tourist along with Ravjot, but the co passengers who were locals, too didn’t seem to get enough of those mountains looming outside their window and all the magic they created. I tell you…things the mountains do to you!

IMG-20181120-WA0000 — While waiting for Mr Sharma at The Fagu Bus Stop!

After a nerve wrecking ride of 45 mins we reached the Fagu bus stop on the old Hindustan Tibet Road. Mr Sharma was there to receive us in his tiny vintage Maruti. His village and our destination, Talai was just 4 kms from here. A drive downhill into the hidden unpaved paths lead us to our Home for the following two nights….The NORTHMOON HOMESTAY . Talai situated at a height of 7550 amsl, on a mountain saddle is a quaint lil village with just about 20 houses and numerous apple orchards and resplendent terrace farms, perfect getaway to soak in the views and savour the serenity.. It falls under the Theog sub district and is not only famous for a massive produce of apples and vegetables along with most of them being sold at Reliance Fresh but also for the second densest forest of Asia called Chaili.

IMG-20181119-WA0034 — Apples Galore! From the Home Stays orchards

IMG-20181113-WA0062 — That balcony! Sigh! Sat here for hours never getting bored of that view!

Mrs Indra welcomed us with the warmest smile and a much needed cup of tea. The rooms were a work of art with beautiful woodwork and glass windows overlooking the valley and contours of the mountains criss-crossing appearing like a hard to solve maze of enchanting blue hills. Far behind them the snow clad himalayas shone bright. A balcony with views like these and just the sound of birds and the winds whistling around made a perfect sit out for our conversations over the cuppa and those rendezvous with Them Mountains.

IMG-20181117-WA0050 — Viwes from NorthMoon Home Stay

Even though we’d been up since 4am, the zeal had reached an all new high. It was pretty cold and after sitting in the balcony for a bit, we decided to take a stroll in the village. We had just another day here in the and we wanted to spend every single minute walking down the alleys, befriending the locals and hiking around. And that’s exactly what these two days were all about!

While out on an evening stroll, we met a lil girl in her school uniform waiting for her brother to arrive and pick her up. She sat in the middle of nowhere and didn’t seem to have an iota of fear or apprehension. What world was this! A lil furry fellow named Sweetie later came by and demanded a belly rub while his family people(some Biharis settled there for labour work) insisted we took apples from them. They said they were sick of eating them all the time!

IMG-20181119-WA0039 — And this lil one! Sweetie!

We were literally house hopping and not a single host found it abnormal for having strangers knock on their doors! Most of the houses still had the old traditional charm with mud walls and cobbled roofs resting on wooden logs. While walking around, we decided to descend towards one such house, that was perched in the middle of the farms.

IMG-20181119-WA0031 — The house we decided to visit!

A narrow trail along the stone walls lead to this beautiful small rustic house, with a toy scooter and a basket of fruits adorning its muddy wooden porch overlooking the valley. It was unusually quiet there. The house was locked but had another two visitors, someone from their family waiting for them. We sat down along with the old man and lady and who happened to be Nepalese.

IMG-20181119-WA0032 — Mr Bhim Bahadur sharing his travel stories with us!

Bhim Bahadur talked about his young days when he travelled around the world and how he knew every mountain pass around. After every statement of his he reiterated “ Mai Bahut Ghuma Hai” “Pura Duniya Ghooma Hai”! He told us about the hiking trail to Narkanda and how Srinagar in Uttarakhand is right behind the mountain that stood in front of us. That tipsy old wrinkled face adorning a Nepalese hat, had actually traversed through the length and breadth of Himachal and clicked our pictures with his hand in front of the lens, muttering ‘ Bahut accha photo hai” 😛

We rushed back home chasing the sunset. Our balcony gifted us both with incredible sunrise and sunset views. The sky turned into a crazy orange, the air became cooler and it only got quieter and more beautiful. Five blankets weren’t enough to warm us up but Mrs Indra was kind enough to give us an electric blanket without even asking, She later got us a wide spread of delectable dishes for dinner with SIDDU being one of them. Siddu is a Himachali dish, a kind of bread made from wheat flour mixed with yeast. It is supposed to be had with Ghee and it tastes so bleddy amayyyzingg! 😛

IMG-20181120-WA0022 — The Lavish spread for dinner!

That night we slept like logs with tired bones.. satiated tummies and happiest hearts!

DAY 2 : In Talai Village

IMG-20181116-WA0009 — The most precious gold ..The Sun trying to make its way through the clouds!

Its funny how you never need alarm clocks in the mountains. The kumbhkaran in me was up by 5:45am and quite happily so. It wasn’t a clear sky but a faint stream of light flashed across the mountains. The Sun was ready to light up our side of the earth. We sat there patiently, huddled in our blankets, chattering our teeth impatiently waiting for the magic to unfold. The sky turned crimson and it looked as if the mountains had a pinkish orange outline. The sun never really rose up for the angry grey clouds kept winning over it, yet it was all bright around with birds announcing the outset of a new day. The houses threw smoke out of their chimneys and the lady of the house got Ravjot her morning tea and me, a hot glass of water.

IMG-20181116-WA0011 — Those Morning Reads at the balcony!

While I sat down reading my book, Ravjot decided to meditate in the sun on the balcony. Her phone played a soft melody and the sun kissed her face gently. I couldn’t help but capture this moment for it spoke of why we were there…what we’d been wanting from this break.

IMG-20181116-WA0007 — Ravjot meditating outside while i was tucked warm inside the blanket while clicking her!

After gobbling down the best aaloo parathas in breakfast, we decided to leave for a hike up to this Sanskrit College on a mountain top in Tungesh. We walked through hamlets, the biggest one being Cheog. This village has a prominent market with basic amenities and a senior secondary school. One could hear the morning banter from school and the teacher giving a speech on Children’s Day. There are some destinations that GPS cannot guide you well with and a little piece of paper comes in handy. Mr Sharma had drawn a tiny little map with immaculate directions.

IMG-20181116-WA0008 — Leaving for the hike!

IMG-20181116-WA0016 — The busy hamlet of Cheog!

We finally reached this Deodar forest that appeared dark and dense for the light struggled to creep in through the cover of trees. All that one could hear was the whistling wind and cawing of an alien bird. The initial climb was steep and the trails disappeared in between but the freshness of the cool crisp air and Griffin House singing ‘Native’ on the phone, subdued our apprehensions and mild fears (for we were told Tigers and other wild animals frequent this area)

IMG-20181116-WA0015 — I’d rather be a forest than a street!

An old furry mountain dog sat there outside soaking up the warm sun. All these places turn out to be complete with these lil wet noses i get to meet on most..in fact all my journeys. The college was a few steps away and we decided to go see how students studied this subject I always almost flunked in! A guy walked out of the college and I stopped him, flaunting my half broken Sanskrit…’ Aham twam college gacchami!!” He smirked and asked where we came from. On getting to know we came hiking up from Talai through the forest, he seemed quite taken aback. I wondered why though for it was just a 5kms hike. An old stern looking face taught a group of students outside in the sun while another snooty teacher sat with two girls. In spite of getting not so warm vibes from the lady, we talked a bit with them. The college offered an undergraduate course in sanskrit and most of the girls aspired to become Sanskrit teachers for there was no other scope. Just then this really kind man got us two chairs to sit and asked us for tea. We politely declined and told him we had to go hiking further down to the village. He was Mr Satish, the peon and caretaker of the college and I learnt that he lived with his family in a lone house there on this hill top. Curious to know how quaint his abode might be, I asked him if it were okay to go visit his place to which he enthusiastically replied ‘ Haanji Bilkul…mai aapko raasta dikha deta hoon!’ ‘Yes of course..I shall show you the way to my house’!

IMG-20181116-WA0035 — Up at the Sanskrit College in Tungesh after two hours of hiking!

And a couple of minutes later, there we were, zapped to see this huge gorgeous bungalow with a 360 degree panoramic view! Satish’s brother stood smiling at the gate. I thought he would take us to the outhouse, assuming that was where they lived. Instead he offered us a cup of tea and invited us to his bungalow. I must shamelessly confess that I doubted him for the first couple of minutes , probably because I didn’t expect a peon’s family to be so well off. And so there was yet again, the warmest village family who once again opened up my eyes and taught me to look beyond what we’ve always lived with..stereotypes or prejudice..whatever you may call them!

IMG-20181118-WA0033 — This beautiful house with a 360 degree view of the Himalayas!

IMG-20181116-WA0038 — And these beautiful people!

We sat down for an hour and talked like we were never strangers. We were so comfortable that we exchanged numbers and told them that I’d be back soon again and self invited myself. Later Sanjeev walked back with us, guiding us through the forest in spite of telling him that we’d figure out the way ourselves!

While leaving their place, I thought to myself, this is exactly what got me here. These people with the largest hearts and tiniest of an idea of how wonderful they are!

IMG-20181118-WA0043 — At their apple godown…Countless Apples and Rajma strewn over the place!

On our way back we discovered that the forest we walked through was Asia’s second densest forest apparently. After checking on google maps, we got to know its called Chaili forest. On reaching the unpaved track, Sanjeev showed us this tree( that had three more trees branching out of it) that the villagers worshiped and the folklore has it that the Kaali Ma appeared here a few years back.

IMG-20181118-WA0037 — Sanjeev guiding us through the dense forest!

IMG-20181118-WA0035 — The Banga Pani Meadows!

A little ahead was Banga Pani, a famous meadow in the region where a lot of hikers camp but the touristy spot displayed signs of decaying for filth dotted the green spaces. It started to drizzle and in an hours time it metamorphosed into hail. We were back just in time for what followed next was a mad furious downpour.

IMG-20181119-WA0042 — Just before the hailstorm!

After all my Himachal trips are incomplete without rains. But there was another thing that accompanied most of the times. A bright colorful rainbow. It was there yet again, making me believe that the mountains loved me as much as I loved them! As lame and corny as it may sound, but this really was a wonder for out of four trips in the last five months, this was the third time a beautiful splash of colors made up for few gloomy minutes or hours of rain!

IMG-20181119-WA0041 — Hello there Mr Rainbow!

A heavy downpour yet again kept us indoors for rest of the evening. We snuggled up in our blankets, reading, talking and making each other listen to our favorite songs!

Later that night while Ravjot slept unaware of the thunderstorms outside, i wrapped myself in a blanket and sat shivering outside, trying to catch the glimpse of the mountains every time the lightning illuminated them and that’s when Li Po’s words rang in my ears…

‘All the birds have flown up and gone

A lonely cloud floats leisurely by

We never tire of looking at each other

Only the mountain and I “

Travel and Home stay Info

Chandigarh to Simla: The Kalka Simla toy train is an experience in itself. There are five trains running from Kalka. Try catching the early ride for you get to witness some amazing sunrise views. We traveled by Shivalik Deluxe that starts at 5:45 AM and reaches Simla by 11:30 AM. Its a very comfortable ride, especially for people who suffer from motion sickness and the train serves you with tea as well as breakfast en route.
One can even catch a bus from Sec 17 Chandigarh ISBT. There are buses leaving every hour and one can check with the tour operators.
If you’re traveling from Delhi, it would take you 7 to 8 hours by road or one could just catch a direct flight to Simla airport located at Jubbarhatti, 22kms away from the main town.
Simla to Fagu: Fagu is just a stones throw away from Simla. With just 20kms to cover, one could either catch a direct cab from the railway station itself or catch a local bus from the Lakkar Bazar Bus Station. Buses for Fagu leave every ten mins. It costed me just 35 bucks while a cab would easily charge you 800 to 1000 Rs!
Home Stay Details: Mr Sharma: 9816423286
We stayed at a place called North Moon Home Stay run by the Sharma family. Tucked away in the midst of lush green forests, in a small village called Talai, this place is a perfect getaway for people looking for respite from the city madness and nature craving nuts. The home stay is built over four floors, each floor boasting of one big room with glass windows overlooking the mountains and an attached washroom( with 24/7 running hot and cold water) and an exclusive balcony. The family provides you with good warm blankets, electric kettle etc.Mrs Indra is a fabulous cook and the meals are made of fresh and organic veggies straight from their farms. A cautionary word here, lets not expect the comforts of a 4 Star here. The idea of a home stay is to interact with the local family, eat what they eat and get a closer look at their culture and traditions.
One can check out other home stays as well. The village has quite a few of them and the closest village Cheog has plenty of farm stays too. If you’re a bigger group and looking for a pet friendly stay, do check out The Living Woods Farm stay in Cheog.
Kufri and Theog are nearby tourist spots.
If you have enough time, then one could plan a hike up to Narkanda…yet another quaint little getaway from the very touristy Simla.

Kila Nunnery…..Where Faith and Mountains Meet!

IMG-20181101-WA0062 — While starting from Chalela….high above the clouds

IMG-20181101-WA0067 — Off Roading to Kila

IMG-20181101-WA0036 — First hike up to KILA

IMG-20181101-WA0070[1] — fourth visit… on the left are the Nun’s rooms

IMG-20181101-WA0038 — Perched on a cliff and how!

Kila Gompa Nunnery that dates back to the ninth century is a hidden treasure, nestled in the wilderness of Chalela. Perched on a dizzying rock cliff, with astounding views of the mighty Himalayan Ranges and the Paro Valley, this nunnery is every trekkers, riders delight. There were a total of 60 Nuns residing in the nunnery back in 2016, when i last visited. Some of their stories are unreal and inspiring. Known as the oldest nunnery in Bhutan, Kila is an offbeat destination attracting very few tourists.People who are intrigued by the lives of these simple maroon robed girls and at the same time looking for some refreshing time with the lesser known trails in the mountains shouldn’t give it a miss though. If you happen to visit the Nunnery, do carry small little something like munchies for the nuns as a kind gesture. Most of them are huge WAI WAI fans so carrying noodle packets for them isn’t a bad option. The nearest market is either in Paro or Haa Valley and therefore the nunnery is usually cut off form the civilization. Hence carrying snacks for them would be a great idea 🙂 Try reaching there early morning to catch a glimpse of the morning prayer rituals. out of all the five trips to Kela, the first hike remains special for after walking in the relentless rains, we were not only greeted fleeting clouds but also the hypnotic sound of the trumpets and chimes played at the monastery during early morning prayer rituals.

ROUTE TO KILA NUNNERY

IMG-20181101-WA0064 — Biking from Haa to Kila

DRIVE/RIDE TO KILA
For those who are not into hiking, the Nunnery is easily accessible by road. If you’re driving up from Paro, the Nunnery is visible on the right hand side…as a tiny little Monastery hanging on a rock cliff. The right turn for the Gompa, is 10kms short of Chalela Pass. Once you take the right turn, you would hit an unpaved road covering a distance of 3 to 4kms. The Gompa is situated on the cliff at a height of 3500amsl surrounded by dense thick forest and spectacular Himalayan ranges. ( some of the highest peaks visible from here are Mt Chumolhari and Jichu Drake). Takes around one and a half hour drive from Paro Valley.
If you are coming from Haa side, the Nunnery falls 10 kms ahead of Chaela on your left.

HIKE TO KILA

IMG-20181101-WA0035 — While hiking up…leaving dense forest trails behind..

IMG-20181101-WA0033 — Wilderness of Paro!

IMG-20181101-WA0071[1] — Strawberries abound…Trails like these!

IMG-20181101-WA0025 — Clouds blurring our views so beautifully

IMG-20181101-WA0013 — At a chortan at th gompa..

The same route can be used for hiking up to Kila..would take you just 45 mins or an hour from the turn. Another route is, descending down from Chalela Pass ( towards the meteorological station side). But one is advised to go in a group for bears frequent the jungles nearby. The nuns shared a whole lot of bear spotting tales and one does find it eerie climbing all by yourself in the forest.

KILA for sure has left a huge mark and having visited this place five times, i can still say that i’d never get enough of it!

Here’s a glimpse of the Nunnery through my lens and words 🙂

IMG-20181101-WA0072[1] — Nuns entering the prayer room!

As the dawn struck the boundless blue sky

Lighting up the magnificent Himalayas that stood so mighty and high!

While the warm sunshine kissed the snowy peaks with love

Just like a stream of gold..the sky looked splendid above!

So I set out on a journey to the mystical land so divine

Driving through the morning fog along the ambrosial rustling Pine

The dew on the vibrant flowers was yet to melt away

The sweet symphony of the rustling leaves echoed as the soft breeze made them sway

I packed my bags and with my trekking stick I hit the slushy ground

The monotony in the air was broken by the chirping that resound

The Spanish fungus that hung like chandeliers graced the mighty trees

Walking all by myself in the lap of nature..I felt like a spirit so free

One glimpse of the spectacular Monastery gleaming over the cliff

You couldn’t really tell and yet it looked as if

It called me out and embraced me in its Himalayan solitude

While I felt, I was transported to another world with all my pensive thoughts subdued!

The world you hear about in the stories or read about in the book

With pines and wild flowers all around and silver trouts shimmering in the Brook

The fallen woods lavishly clothed in the greenest of moss

The dazzling rhododendrons befitting the trees thriving across

And as I tread the road not taken.. one step after the other

The Gompa shone brilliantly and to my Haven I got closer

The enchanting drums and chimes played in harmony together

I knew I was making memories that I’d stow in my heart forever

And there they were draped in maroon.. living a life of enlightened souls

Some were barely 8 some in twenties while a few of them quite old

But no matter what the age they all had one similar quest

Leaving the worldly pleasures behind yet living life with full zest

And then there was one of them who remains in my memory etched

Who stood all alone by herself, kind of distinct from the rest

She had a tattoo on her hand from the life she lived before

With sparkle in her eyes, she talked about her dreams galore

She had that nostalgic smile, while she talked about her life as a carefree child

But then she wanted to be a nun ever since she was 10 and she had no regrets since she self exiled

Her grit and determination at this age took me quite aback

At eighteenth, I’d probably couldn’t care less when I now sit and look back

And just then the bells rang again signaling our rendezvous to an end

It was time to bid goodbye to this incredible new found friend

And As she joined the others singing praises to the Lord

For the first time ever , with my spiritual self it struck a chord

While I tredded back home on a stony path with a renewed insight

I knew I’d just made a memory to cherish and a story that I’d love to write!

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KARERI LAKE……A HIKE TO REMEMBER!!

‘Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit, is the answer to the mystery why we climb.’ Greg Child

Faint rays of the much missed Sun gently kissed the farms across my bed side window! Sunshineee! I yelled ‘Goooood Morning’! Tee was taken aback to see me all enthu at 6:30am! I’ve never been a morning person and the exuberant display looked fake on me! But I was mighty happy that morning for I would finally get to see the lake after three days of torrential rains and many impatient hours spent waiting! I opened my door to Cheeru displaying the same kind of euphoria on seeing the long lost Sun and wagging his tail, stretching himself out towards me, hinting at a belly rub. There was a clear blue sky and the cows were already out of their sheds, their cowbells breaking the stillness of an early morning calm! The dew on the farms slowly melted away while kids could be seen cleaning up under the open hand pumps, some adorning their crisp white uniform T-Shirts ,getting ready to walk down miles to their school ( a mountain trek in itself). That moment, the village seemed to have gotten back to its tempo, a tad bit faster than the last three days. And along with the hamlet, there was another entity who paced faster than ever before .The gorgeous yet elusive…the constant yet unstoppable… the divine yet vengeful and unforgiving …The Stream!

IMG-20181023-WA0026 — A perfect day for the outdoors

At around 8am, I slipped into my shoes, gobbled down a paratha and zipped up my rucksack, rearing to start the hike. Tee was somewhat better today, and was sitting in the outside porch soaking up the warm sunshine. I kind of felt sad to leave him behind but an honest shameless confession here. The excitement of being finally able to do this hike and a good one after almost a year and a half overpowered the sad feeling of leaving him behind. But it was also because I knew he’d be fine with Auntie and Arun around who actually took care of him like family. I left my trekking pole behind for Tee, to help him walk and help me feel a lil less guilty about going solo!

The warm sunshine and the slippery rocks tired me out in just a couple of minutes. I was doing a trek in the high altitude after a gap of two long years. Back in Bhutan, climbing mountains had become a routine, so much so that Dasher and Haachu (my mutts) and to some extent even I couldn’t sleep well at night the day we didn’t trek. Ever since we moved to the city here, my physical activity was anything but physical. And I could see the effects now. Since the day had just begun and the sun shone brilliantly, the villagers were all out, some with their legs dwindling by the houses roof, smoking up on hookah already while quite a few leisurely embracing the sunshine warmth in their farms. Manoj would greet every one who’d come our way. He seemed to know everyone, touching the feet of the elderly and high fiving the youngsters…he knew all the wagtails around, petting them and scratching their ears with love. And he obviously knew the trails way too well for he didn’t have to watch his steps…he knew exactly how many puddles…the size of boulders and the number of streams that flowed by. I followed him, trying hard to emulate his steps to avoid all the slips and bumps.

IMG-20181023-WA0101 — Early morning scenes

While walking through all the slush, my mind drifted to the brightly lit flawless manicured streets of my city. I wondered how many neighbours of mine would high five me early morning. I wonder if at all, i’d even find them out in their houses. I thought about how many dogs I knew around my house apart from Muddy and Browny whom I fed occasionally and if at all I knew a road so well that I hadn’t have to use the Google Maps! Just then Manoj obstructed my thinking, ‘Dhyaan se…landslide ho rakha hai’….a part of the trail had been obliterated. He lend me his hand to pull me through the slush. By now we had left the houses far behind. The village looked like a tiny speck, deep down in the valley surrounded by the striking backdrop of the snow capped Dhauladhars.

IMG-20181023-WA0024 — Away from civilisation

Manoj told me how we’d soon be at the Niyund stream that had to be crossed to reach the other side of the mountain which then had to be trekked up to reach the lake. He expressed his concern over the river catching up pace in the last three days and hoping that it wasn’t as bad as the villagers had been telling. He asked me if I had climbed up to a mountain lake before. I showed him the pictures of Dungtsho and Nubtshonapata in Bhutan to which he exclaimed…’Hamara Himachal aur bhi sundar hai..Dekhna aaj aap!’ His words just added on to my excitement and my mind started conjuring all kind of pictures of the route ahead and of the lake that would be home for the night.

IMG-20181023-WA0018 — Sun Gods are with us today 🙂

After crossing the Salli road, we could now see Niyund. It was swollen and angry and furiously lashed out against trees and debris in its way. We walked in the dense forest where the sunlight crept in through the thick bushes illuminating the branches, lavishly clothed in moss. The climb was some what steep and extremely rocky. But I’ve always loved ascents more than descents. Half an hour of climb inside the forest and voila…there she was…brimming with all her might, gurgling & meandering its way…as clean and pure as she could be but as I got closer, I witnessed fury as she pounded the mighty rocks boulders that put up a feeble resistance to her flow. What sounded like a sweet river symphony from far away, was in real quite like a deafening uproar. This wasn’t a good sign!

IMG-20181023-WA0022 — Salli-Kareri Link Bridge

We all knew that Himachal was hit by an freakish rainstorm in the last three days. Schools and govt offices were shut and people were warned to stay away from any kind of water bodies. The Manali Bus video getting washed away with the floods, flashed in my mind. The super paranoid hydrophobic soul that I am, shuddered. The water had risen ten times the normal level. Both me and Manoj, patrolled the area to find a spot where we could find quieter torrents and prominent rocks. But alas, all in vain. He got a heavy wooden stick to check the depth of the water, but the moment he dipped it, the furious rapids washed it away. We didn’t want to head back home and decided to stay put there for an hour or so hoping for a bigger group to turn up. While Manoj jumped over the rocks in the river bed trying to find a way, I couldn’t stop yelling at him, telling him not to take a chance. He maneuvered around the menacing waves so effortlessly. This was his childhood playground. I laid down on the rocks praying hard for a miracle. An hour and a half later, I saw a group of teenage kids with three adults and a couple of village porters walking towards me. There they were, my guardian angels for the day!

IMG-20181023-WA0017 — Finding a way across

Like me, everyone else seemed to be in a daze. The water was at least five feet deep. But it wasn’t the depth that bothered us. The fury it flowed with is unexplainable. One slip here or there, and I might have taken a one way ticket from the lake, directly to Bhakra Nangal Dam in Punjab. After seeing the river state and keeping everyone in mind, we decided to fix ropes to aid in crossing the river. There were just two trees on either sides to tie the rope on but those were right at the point where the river meandered. Just a few inches away from the bend meant maximum flow and force. But we really didn’t have much of a choice there. The male teacher from the group was the first one to cross…he took some tiny calculative steps and managed to reach the other side. Another boy followed him and successfully hopped on to a rock. Just when I was getting all confident about doing this…the kid who went next, lost his balance and slipped bad. The calm was shattered by a cacophony of shrieks. I felt my heart explode and the girls around me were all teary eyed. The local guides who stood in the water, managed to catch hold of him. After two long minutes of battling the torrents eagerly trying to swallow the kid, he managed to hop on to the rock and come back on our side. He was shivering crazy and cried about how he couldn’t feel a thing in the water and how the wave thrust him down. His sipper and other essentials in the outside pocket were all swept away by the ruthless stream. I told myself in my head, “You don’t have to do this today. The lake can wait.” The three teachers in the other group seemed unsure too. They told the guides to shift the rope farther from the bend and tie it to a boulder and that if only the porters would stand inside the river forming a chain of six men, would they continue or else they would drop the idea of hiking up to the lake. All our eyes were fixed on the stream. I shivered with cold and I was scared to death. I don’t remember the last time I ever felt this way. I mean the sixteen year olds being paranoid was understood, but here I was twice their age, who felt like she was going for her first bike riding lessons. The rope was finally shifted inside. The porters stripped and got inside holding every kid and adult while crossing, making sure they don’t loose their balance. I crossed in the end. The water came up to my stomach and my feet turned numb. Every step felt laborious, the torrents not letting my feet move. Akash, one of the porters didn’t leave my hand until I got on to the rock. Later he carried the luggage and crossed over just holding the rope. I was filled with awe and gratitude for these men.

The river crossing saga

If it wasn’t for the group and the porters, I would have never been able to do the hike that day. After sunning up a bit and thanking all of them, I started walking further ahead. Manoj and the porters lead the way, sharing jokes and their load around never leaving the moment dull. We hiked through endless mossy hurricane trails, spotted a huge cave on the other said of the mountain that apparently was used till just last year by the shepherds, sat under inter twined trees, laid on the wet green grass, watched the sky change from indigo to dull grey and chased the river all along. Leaving another mountain behind, the water turned only more transparent, making a thousand splendid pools. Once in a while, you’d see a lone shepherd’s hut, in the middle of no where on the mountain top with countless sheep grazing around…DREAMHOUSE… like the one Alia Bhatt craved for in Highway! Sigh.

IMG-20181023-WA0065 — Moss covered trees

Cave under the stone monolith

IMG-20181023-WA0049 — My “Highway” house

The terrain slowly changed from enormously dense forests, to more open trails with valley on one side and green carpeted giant mountains, pines descending all the way from top to the river below. The fleeting clouds made me play the strip and dress game, at times feeling hot, the sun charring my skin and in no time getting goose bumps courtesy the plummeting temperatures as we climbed higher. The place looked surreal. I remember Tee describing his experience in Gurez Valley in Kashmir.

IMG-20181023-WA0003 — My very own wonderland

This place looked akin to that. With no habitation to the farthest of sight we had covered a little more than half the distance. Just when I was singing this silly PUMP ME UP SONG in my head “I can do it, I will do it’” to make my tired inexperienced legs feel better, there came yet another hurdle to be crossed. With the rivers left far behind, the jagged stone adorned trail now awaited us with a mischievous glee. The group was far behind but Manoj and couple porters were luckily around. Having crossed the river, I was a tad bit less paranoid this time and packed my shoes in the rucksack and jumped in. This time around we had to climb the rocks in that gushing icy cascade. Never in my life did I indulge in things that scared me the most.

Kareri for sure helped me conquer my demons this time! After finally reaching the top, I looked down on that flooded trail of rocks and didn’t shudder this time but smiled. My feet were numb once again but quite comfortably. After crossing the rickety iron bridge, I left Manoj behind with his porter friends and told him I’ll continue walking by myself and he could catch up later. The urge to walk that path with just my shadow alone overpowered the inhibition of lugging my way through the unknown rocky trails. The river now gushed right beside me and I was tempted to splash that icy chilled water on my burnt face. My feet had already got their share for the day. A small lil shack stood on the mountain across the river. I wondered if the folks who owned it relished the solitude as much as I did or was it killing for them to live there forever.

IMG-20181023-WA0055 — Last steel bridge while climbing

As I walked further ahead, the landscape grew more unreal. It seemed as if the nature had carelessly strewn boulders all across the mountains and tiny polka dot like elements dotted the mountains all over. I rubbed my eyes out of disbelief. The sheep had covered the mountains all over, making it look like a green dress decked with black and white polka dots! It felt like I was on some other planet of the universe where I was the only human with only sheep and mountains and river and trees around. Just then, he came out of no where climbing the rocks ahead of me. FURRY! Was this for real. The picture of my neverland only got better. I wasn’t alone now. Two of us walked along with our shadows into the setting sun that started to paint the sky orangish.

We laid down on this green meadow, waiting for others to catch up with us. I scratched his head gently, staring into the horizon far far away where the sky was still blue. I asked Furry who he belonged to. He just tilted his head, nudging me to scratch him more. I didn’t say anything more and did as he ordered. That hour of dusk I sang with all my happy heart to the little Pawiee and the mountains

‘Oh We don’t know what’s coming tomorrow

May be its trouble or sorrow

But we’ll travel along

Sharing our load

Side by side…

As we got closer to the lake, the deep cold barren mountain beamed all coppery in the sunset. DÉJÀ VU! The Sunlight…the most precious gold on the earth was crossing over to the other side of the earth but only after showering upon us a warm exquisite welcome. A purple dusk over tangerine icy giants, that razored into the blue far above and the lake reflecting the candy cotton clouds hovering over them. This couldn’t be real! Furry quickly found his spot on the rock, facing the lake guarded by the snow hooded mountain. He took me back to my long lost furry pals, especially Browny whom I met during the Phajoding hike! It was all a Déjà vu…for places might have changed, but the mountains.. they’re the same old. Same old

Manojs folks (the bakkarwals) lived in huts on the other side of the lake. I was happy for I’d have the place to myself since other hikers camped on the opposite side. We crossed the glacial streams and after a bit of walking, landed at our campsite. Manoj’s Uncle, whistled out loud to get his sheep fall in at one place. In no time, I was surrounded by hundreds of them, most of them shy while some didn’t mind being petted. I suddenly had a new ambition in life…I wanted to be a bakkarwal.

Manoj asked me if I wanted to sleep inside the hut with all of them but I obviously insisted on camping outside by the lake. I asked him if it were safe. He quipped, “Yahaan koi insaan hee nahi hai” I excitedly got the tent out and both of us fixed it in no time. I hoped to stay brave late at night and not imagine dreadful things around me here in the wilderness… While he went off to the hut, I quickly changed inside the tent and wrapped myself up in layers. After getting drenched twice in the morning, I was still cold. While sitting in the darkness, I stretched my legs out of the tent and listened to the only sound that existed then…of the stream. I thought of the morning encounters with the mother nature and patted myself on the back. Well Done A! The moon was rising up behind me, reflecting the mountain that stood across my campsite. It illuminated bright as though it basked in a thousand chandeliers. Turns out, it was a full moon night. The hindi horror movies sidey plots struck me for a moment. Purnima ki raat ko bhoot aata hai and all that jazz. But right now I wasn’t ready for any of that jazz. I was in the mountains after the longest time. I was this vulnerable yet content after what felt like eons. I was sitting under a million stars and the brightest moon; in the middle of the snow clad Dhauladhars, right beside a lake with countless glacial streams bickering around and a shepherd’s hut a stones throw away from my tent. And all of this was well deserved after all the adventures of today and the past three days of wait. This certainly was one of those bed time stories I’d dramatically tell my kids.

IMG-20181023-WA0005 — Ah!! the view made up for all the adventures enroute

While gazing dreamily at the million galaxies above me, I lay beneath the stars, salting the sky, wondering about all their theories. Of how they burn for a million years to eventually light up and however tiny they come across as, in real they’re all way bigger than the Sun. I also pondered on how we’ve always grown up hearing that our loved ones after passing away shine on as a Taara in that sky, which further took me back to my long forgotten loved ones, my grandparents and my little stray pup RAINBOW who I adopted as a kid…I wondered if they were up there too, watching over me at this hour. I asked them why they never shone so bright in my city sky.

Well that night I put myself to sleep, listening to my favorite Himachali folk song “ AMMA PUCHDI’. The last few words in the song, along with the stars in the sky made me feel closer to my TAARAS who knocked my window of childhood memories after the longest time. I tell you…Things that mountains do to you!

Kutthi jyaanda Chandrama

Kutthi jaandein taare ho

Oh Amma ji, kuthi jaandein Dillan de pyaare ho!

( a lil girl asks her mother, where do the moon and stars go..and where do our loved ones disappear?

Chuppi jyaanda chandrama

Chuppi jyaande taare ho

Ho jiye bhala naiyo chup de, Dillan de piyaare ho!

( the mother tells her kid, The moon and stars do hide themselves at times but our loved ones never fade away…they’re always there!)

Late at night, at around 2AM, I woke up to some footsteps around my tent. Few seconds later, someone just brushed along my tent walls. I could hear him breathe heavily! ‘ WTF’! I shrieked out of fear in my head. I quietly reached out to my rucksack, my hands frantically searching for the knife I carried along! All kind of evil plots popped up in my head. Is it a man lurking around the tent…probably drunk ( people say Pahaadis drink like fish) or what if it were some wild animal that came down the mountain, hoping to catch one of those sheep as its prey and instead hitting a jackpot finding this 5:10 long bony human, taking care of his month long meal. Its funny how that eerie hour of crisis made my brain so creative! I froze and decided not to move myself or make any kind of sound. Five longest minutes later I heard this living being munch on the grass…and thereafter crapping the shit out! Good Heavens! Never ever did anything so unpleasant as pooping around make me feel so comfortable!

After all “ A howling wilderness doesn’t howl, it’s the imagination of the traveller that does the howling”……Henry David

At the crack of the dawn, I woke up to the mist on my tent’s roof, miraging my early morning view! I unzipped the tent and Holy Cowww! I had two guards watching over my tent …I guess the same ones who happily pooped around to make me feel better, the previous night. The moon shone across the lake, ready to fade away while the morning light steadily set in around. I saw another tent some metres away. Turns out the bakkarwals had more guests late at night (imagine villagers walking in at midnight in this wilderness) and since the hut was small to accommodate everyone, two of them pitched a tent outside. Ahh! What life!

The stillness of the lake was interrupted by the glacial stream gushing down the Dhauladhars. The Shiv Shakti Temple reflected on it, and countless sheep hovered around. The green grass was interspersed with a million boulders and hundreds of these mountain folks…the fuzzy warm sheep. I decided to walk down to the lake. It was 6am and no one was up so far except the bakkarwals. Pummels of smoke spiralled out of their hut.

I sat on one of the many boulders beside the lake, just when, this little black fur baby, Haachu’s Doppleganger emerged out of the rocks. The next two hours were spent walking around with him…feeding him Maggie ( I had nothing else ☹) singing songs by the lake side, drinking green tea in my coal flavoured hot water, soaking up the sun like id seen it after years, watching the young porters dance ecstatically to the himachali folk songs and listening to Manoj try out his flute. A reluctant retreat awaited me. This time around, I had company for the hike. The bakkarwals (Mama and Mami) along with three other men to help them relocate back to the village until April, a herd of cows and a lil lamb whom I named Fighter! Mami ended up becoming my favourite for a lot many reasons. We not only gave each other company all the way back home, but also on the final day of leaving the village, Mama and Mami tagged along with us in our car till Chambi (a town close to Meti). She was no less than a superhero yet the sweetest at heart. She in spite of carrying meager amount of food, shared it with all of us and two random villagers we met enroute. (I who go by ‘Joey doesn’t share his food philosophy’ was mighty impressed! On reaching the deadly stream again, (the flow was a tad bit slow this time) she displayed her daredevil stunts. This 50 years old lady effortlessly climbed a water pipe hanging over the furious brook and scrambled to the other side in no time. I was left absolutely dumbstruck! On asking her who trained her for all of this, Manoj intervened saying how I must see her climbing up giant lofty trees like a pro. It’s then when I felt how over rated trekking up to high altitude areas were. The village folks, twice as old as us, carrying ten times the weight of our rucksack and wearing just slippers are way fitter and bolder! I had my ‘TAKE A BOW MOMENT’ there!

IMG-20181023-WA0001 — Mami, the local superwoman

Rarely do I use my camera or senses to capture anything on my return. Like I said earlier I love ascents more than descents. Probably because a major part of me is this whiny kid, reluctant to leave and also because my knees tend to give up especially on a rocky trail like this one.

IMG-20181023-WA0021 — Knees aren’t too fond of the the rocks, eh

That night, while I limped around with Tee and we had our post trek date at our fav café in the village ‘out of the world’ every bit of my skin and bone ouched happily!

IMG_20180926_191412_488[1] — Th post date trek at our favorite cafe…Out of the World.

IMG-20181023-WA0092 — Sucker for chinese

The following day was the hardest for the roads were finally opening up and it was time for us to bid goodbye to Kareri which luckily went on to become our home for 6 days from just one! I am thankful for the rainstorm to have gifted me such an incredibly adventurous trip. Without it my experience would have been quite different or dare I say, a bit mundane. Auntie packed some cucumbers and corns for me, freshly plucked from her farms and waved byes until we didn’t disappear on to the other side of the hill. Cheeru followed us till the car thinking I was taking him for yet another short hike around the village. It broke my heart to see him standing there, staring at our car until we faded out of the village. And with a whole lot of heart break, sun burns, bruises, coal stench and leach bite marks, I brought along with me a brand new me, a better me for once again the mountains reaffirmed my faith in magical neverlands with fairy tales and pixie dust 😊

IMG-20181023-WA0091 — Hitchhiking across landslides; the adventure never really ended till dharamshala!

Prelude to Nubshonapata Lake Trek

It’s been precisely four days of being home Somethings… A Lot of things are amiss.. To start with I just landed in 45 degrees.. From the salubrious climes of my enchanting Haa Valley.. I pinch myself to make myself realize that I am no more in the comforting Himalayas.. My mind drifts back to the constant murmuring of the Haachu River.. To the warmest embrace of the Himalayas.. To my two wheels who took me around the deserted alleys of the heaven incarnate hamlets.. To the streams of Dumcho n Paeso village where I’d sit for hours in the evenings staring into nothingness, finding solace in its sweet symphony… And to the alien tribes who ironically never ever felt alien.. The ever so warm Haaps!! (Haa tribes)

At my favorite village Dumcho

The mandatory evening rides to Dumcho

Two years of Himalayan Bliss.. Two years of an undying relationship with the mountains.. Two years of evolving like never before .. Two years like none other in the past three decades.. So I had to bid farewell to my neverland doing what I’d been dreaming of for months.. Mt Jumolhari Basecamp Hike was on my bucket list for quite some time and the ideal time to do it was here.. So while I am almost done with my entire trek prep (horses arranged. Tents.. Guides.. Everything check! And just then voila! The immigration department decides to play the villian.. just doesn’t seem to give me the permit.. Apparently all the guides and travel agencies were then told that the Indians and Chinese weren’t encouraged to do this particular hike owing to its sensitive location…

Mt Jumolahri : My dream climb that remained a dream

Well! Must say I was devastated and absolutely disappointed.. I had exactly a week left now and all I could think of was which mountains I’d be able to romance before I’d said my final bye! So the next two days I’d give frantic calls to local guides and mailing random Bhutanese on Instagram asking them about hikes and treks.. Thomas suggested me to go for the last mountain lake on the western border of Bhutan.. Probably one of the largest lakes as well.. The Treasure Lake Nubtshonapata!! While The Jumolhari videos and images still haunted me I just reluctantly called one of the local guides named Pema Tenzin.. I wasn’t too sure if he’d b ready to take me along since I was solo and also told by one of the locals that it’s still snowing up there and it won’t be a very good idea to hike up to that place around this time .. I was desperate.. I anyway called… Pema told me to give him a day and he’d get back to me.. He was sweet and courteous enough to call me back and told me to get ready for the hike.. I was thrilled.. I tried googling and checked hash tags on Nubtshonapata but very little was given on the same.. It’s a hidden treasure that very few tourists know of! But now that I’ve done it, it probably tops the charts of my best hikes ..

So plans fixed! A four days hike was planned out with Pema, Kencho1 and Kencho 2 (also called Shak) … I was happy since I’d still got to do pretty much a lot of things on my to do list.. Read hiking up to the mountain lake.. Above 4500m MSL.. Camping in the wilderness at a yak herders hut and witnessing the spectacular Himalayan Ranges… Though I had my own inhibitions for I didn’t know these men too well (I’d met them once.. That’s it) and the warnings from my folks and friends didn’t make things any better.. Plus the rod in my thigh like always decided to play along.. But then when you got to go you got to go! One day before leaving Pema calls and we are checking our checklist and then before hanging up he asks me a question which now cracks me up.. While then I was kind of flabbergasted thinking what’s my guide up to! So he goes like “Ma’am will you drink wine?’ Just then my mom’s safety cautions rang in my head.. I like a typical Indian woman while talking to a random man retorted,” I don’t drink! And you too shouldn’t while we are hiking”.. He goes like “Ma’am it’s just few shots that we need to put ourselves to sleep”.. Well I told him to go ahead with his wining plan but also told him that I won’t be game for the same.. The rain gods decided to play nasty and the same evening (that is the day before we leave) it was pouring cats and dogs in Haa Valley while it snowed on top where we were headed up to.. But the mountains were calling and am glad we did go 🙂

Had Never Heard Of Morshing Until…

STUCK AT RUPA

Things You Need To Know While Planning A Trip To Morshing

Inner Line Permit

Homestays In Morshing

How To Travel To Morshing

Phone Network At Morshing

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Walong: Mountain Trails, Intriguing History and So Much More

How To Reach Walong

Accommodation

Route To Walong

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HOW I MET BETHEM, MY GUIDE

GLAW LAKE

HIKING ACROSS THE TROPICAL RAINFOREST OF KAMLANG

FINALLY…HELLO GLAW!

IDEAL TIME TO VISIT GLAW

HOW TO REACH GLAW

PHONE CONNECTIVITY

ACCOMODATION

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PATKAI HILLS OF ARUNACHAL PRADESH

HEARD OF THE HISTORIC STILWELL ROAD?

THE LONG FORGOTTEN WORLD WAR II CEMETERY AT JAIRAMPUR

PANGSAU…THE GATEWAY TO MYANMAR

THE FABLED LAKE OF NO RETURN…ASIA’S OWN BERMUDA TRIANGLE

THE PANGSAU PASS WINTER FESTIVAL

TRAVEL AND STAY INFO

HOW TO REACH

WHERE TO STAY

PLACES TO VISIT

INNER LINE PERMIT

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WHERE EXACTLY IS DONG?

OUR JOURNEY TO THE EASTERNMOST HINTERLANDS OF INDIA

DID YOU KNOW ARUNACHAL HAS ITS OWN HAWAI!

DONG FINALLY!

ROUTE TO DONG VALLEY /HOW TO REACH DONG VALLEY

ACCOMODATION

GUIDE FOR THE TREK

IDEAL TIME TO VISIT

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WAS THERE A PLAN?

FIRST PLEASANT SURPRISE ON THE TRIP …ALREADY!

COUNTRY ROADS IN ARUNACHAL SHALL NEVER DISAPPOINT THE DRIVER IN YOU

RENDEZVOUS WITH THE YOUNG MONK AT NAMSAI

AND THEN WE FOUND MANNA!

SWEETEST SERENDIPITY…OUT OF NO WHERE WAKRO HAPPENED TO US

THINGS TO DO IN WAKRO

STAY INFO

TRAVEL INFO

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OTHER TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN AND AROUND NAMSAI

INNER LINE PERMIT

ACCOMODATIONS

CONNECTIVITY

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Gemreteng Village

SINGSOR ANI GOMPA

TRAVEL AND STAY INFO

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Raktisar Bound

The Great Himalayan National Park

Shagwar Village

Shakti Village (Shaktee)…Where time stands still!

Trek Info And Itinerary

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TRAVEL and HOMESTAY INFO

Things To See In and Around Zemithang/Zimithang

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TIPS TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TO LOHARDI

Things to do in Lohardi….

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